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  2. Are you guys running the Banks power pack systems still using the stock "lift pump" (that only runs for a few seconds at engine start)..??
  3. Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram for a 2003 HR Neptune? I would think it is very similar to the Endeavor/Diplomat. thanks
  4. I don't know enough about this topic to even have an opinion. I somehow imagined that shock travel would be the limiting factor based on my equally limited experience with coil spring suspension systems. I have raised my rear wheels off the ground on numerous occasions apparently without consequence which included chaining up and parking on steep residential streets on occasion.
  5. While you were there did you happen to see any Zerks on the U-joint? The column in some coaches have a couple of Zerks in that area which need to be lubricated periodically.
  6. thanks for all the great info. I removed the cover from around the steering wheel, and it was exactly as described. That is what I was thinking
  7. Rotella 15w - 40 Wal-mart no samples no problems, so far
  8. Had our carpet replaced with engineered wood by Ernie.........love it and would never go back to carpet. He and his son do great work. You can see pics on their facebook pages of coaches they have done.
  9. These are the settings I use too. Gen start at 11.5v is way too low, I expect the inverter to be long in alarm by then. When plugged in at home, I lower the Shore Power and charge rate to minimum. I don't use SOC values for anything because I don't trust them.
  10. I use Rotella and Fleetguard same as others on here. I look for Rotella when its on sale at Sams club. Do my own changes yearly. Covid has caused me to extend my regular scheduled oil change. Only have about 2K miles on this oil and 18 months but will be changing very soon.
  11. It sounds like your batteries are gone, I installed a new residential and with new batteries I can easily last the night. I'll usually run the generator until I get 90% of charge and then when I wake up I still have 80% charge. This was provided to me by DR4film. I have not needed to use AGS yet but have these settings if I decide to. RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming · Search Sense = Defeat · LBCO = ON · Battery Capacity = 500 amp · Battery Type = Liquid Lead Acid · Charge Rate = 80% · Set Shore Power = 30 amps · External Shunt = None · Fuel gauge Cutout = 11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC · Generator Start = 12.0 or 12.2 VDC · Generator Stop = Auto Float · Generator Quiet Time = 23:59 & 00:01 You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start
  12. Never used this feature as of yet and I was wondering what parameters I should set to have the geny auto start while driving with my new to me residential fridge. I first checked the basic settings and they were like my book as in Search sense: defeat, auto LBCO: on, Bat Cap: 500amp, Bat type: liquid lead acid, charge rate: 100%, shore power: 30amp, external shunt: none, Fuel gauge cut out : 11.8 vdc That is my first question should I leave that at 11.8 volts? Second question gen start at ? I put in 11.5 VDC is that too high? Third question gen stop? I put 95% SOC thinking that I would charge up higher before it quit and I started drawing off my Batteries again. All this came about because I put in a residential fridge and on my shake down trip only got about 3 hr. before inverter alarm sounded so I just reached down and started the geny. My batteries are getting a little long in the tooth and I will replace them soon but they still hold 12.5 specific gravity when my RC7-GS says there 100% down a little I know but still up there. Which leads me to my fourth question Shouldn't my alternator be able to keep the house batteries up? This new dc inverter fridge use very little ac amps. The highest reading I got was 1.9 amps this of course without defrost or ice cube heaters on. ( this was read on the single wire hot leg at my on / off switch with my clamp meter. I'm not sure what 2 amps 120v ac relates to dc volt / amps being consumed by the inverter maybe that is too much for the alternator. Thanks in advance Roy 2003 Dynasty
  13. There is a 5 wire pigtail with a 6 pin Molex connector under or behind the driver's left console or the "box" where all the switches are....OR it is pulled up under the left side of the steering column OR it is pulled up and is behind the dash. Monaco put it in there. You just have to find it. There is NO BLUE WIRE up there. It is part of the five white wires....and you would need the print (which I had but is in my MH now) that shows the connections). There may be several Molex connectors with nothing attached to them...but I THINK that the 6 wire pin is the only one of it's design... TRUST ME....it is there.....many folks have had to look several times as Monaco put it whereever they wanted to. You MIGHT have to "FEEL" up inside, towards the top of the driver's console. For example, mine was buried on the floor in the middle of the console. On another Camelot, the harness was pulled up on the dash side and was accessibe from the opening in the dash and was sort of "behind" the headlight switch...
  14. It is a rocker switch with the words "Front" and "Rear" written next to it.
  15. I have to retract the post I made below. It appears that Banks has stopped making Power Pack or Stinger kits for any Cummins engines. Banks still offers a Power Pack Bundle for the Cummins ISB.
  16. I’ll check it out thanks Dr.
  17. Don, it is no longer available. The company supplying Banks with the Ottomind stopped making them. But you can read about it here. https://official.bankspower.com/magazine/powerpack/ When running stock my stock boost gauge would max out at about 24 lbs. After the Banks Power Pack install, the Banks Boost Gauge would provide about 32 lbs of boost. The stock gauge remained the same. Another Banks gauge which is extremely important is the EGT gauge when climbing grades. Temps will always go up for the coolant and transmission when climbing grades.
  18. It's a power upgrade that was offered by Banks for the ISC8.3. Consisted of an electronics package, turbo hot bowl replacement, and a gauge package with boost and pyrometer. To my knowledge, it's no longer available.
  19. I use the same oil and the same lab every oil change and that way I have enough history to see if anything was getting out of whack. So far I would have been fine if I did not do it but I still like to know that my filters, seals and bearings are fine. Personal choice.
  20. Great info. Thank you. I know that the smaller 8.3s are going to want more rpm than the big 14L Cummins we used to run. They liked to settle in at 1600. What kind of boost were you seeing before the Ottomans quit? Gotta love spell check Ottomind Good to know re the Temps Thanks
  21. The Banks Power Pack is a great addition to the ISC. It should tow your truck just fine. Keep an eye on the coolant and trans temperatures when climbing hills on a hot day.
  22. On my 06 Dip I removed the panel in one piece. It’s a bit fiddley, because I had to reach behind it to disconnect the shower and water fill connections. Most of what’s on that panel is just a few screws and maybe one connector. The only one I had an issue with was the panel with the water pump and light switches. If you disconnect those wires, make sure you take a picture of the connections first. The panel itself must be flexed to remove it, but once you get the panel out, replacing the hose (or hose reel) is pretty straightforward. On mine, the gear was stripped, and since I had to pull the entire reel I went ahead and replaced the hose. it probably took me three hours total for removal, repair, and replace everything. That’s been about four years ago and everything still works fine. Here’s info on the replacement gear kit in case anyone needs that.
  23. We use Rotella and Fleetguard filters for our Cummings. In my opinion synthetic for engine oil is a waste of money. I do not do oil analysis. We are full time and change oil and filters yearly. No problems.
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