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  2. Engine fire. He barely got his towed vehicle disconnected to keep from losing that also.
  3. Wow! Do either of you recall if the fire was from the Espar unit? Or was it an engine fire? The comments about the fire suppression lead me to believe it was possibly an engine fire. scotty
  4. The tank comes back with all new sensors and heating element, I had him ship me the one "curly" hose that is for the pre-heat pump, all the rest are standard heater hose. He also redid the radiator cap flange and pointed the overflow nipple towards the front vrs back of the coach and provided a new cap. I will be replacing the exhaust with a 1.5" pipe this time, Monaco only used 1.25 flared it out to 1.5 at the connection to the iron pipe. Specs call for 1.5 inch..
  5. Today
  6. My first guess is that the batteries were disconnected for service which is common. If you have a salesman switch try it first. Check for loose cables, hopefully you have pictures for reference. Use a voltmeter or test light connected to FRAME GROUND. DO NOT use a cable for ground in case it's a disconnected ground wire. Check for 12V at the battery, then salesman solenoid, fuses etc to the power panels etc. Continue to use a long wire to frame ground.
  7. I still have a link to the news article showing his coach fire. He was really bummed out when that happened. Plus to make matters worse he had procrastinated on installing an engine AFFF fire suppression system like what I had installed back in 2010. We had talked about that many times. He now owns a 2002 Holiday Rambler Sceptre and has already done many upgrades to it. I hope by now he has installed that AFFF engine fire suppression system in his coach.
  8. 640316CXX1C0 Here is a link to that model on the Dometic web site. https://tinyurl.com/y263faby
  9. Interesting. Can someone tell me the model number for the 15k Penguin II WITHOUT the heatpump. I'm just interested in the AC function. Thanks.
  10. Richard, Unfortunately Gene's Diplomat with the Espar diesel heating system caught fire and was a total loss. He has a different coach now but I can't remember what it is. I think it is a tag axle Monaco. He was talking to me about how much he misses the Diplomat. He and his wife like to boondock in the winter up at the ski resorts and that Espar diesel furnace was a big benefit. If I remember correctly he got a killer deal on the unit and its installation because he was a beta tester for Espar.
  11. Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|* To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/137-monacoers-daily-digest/. To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website. Note: You MUST be signed in to the site to view or respond to posts Hello *|member_name|*, Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday: Index Ever Removed a Furnace? Bob Nodine 23 hours ago Nothing Works Dr4Film 20 hours ago Ever Removed a Furnace? Dr4Film 20 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability Dr4Film 20 hours ago Ever Removed a Furnace? jacwjames 20 hours ago Main engine AC 2000 Windsor walt2137 19 hours ago Nothing Works Frank McElroy 19 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability throgmartin 18 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability amphi_sc 18 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability Dr4Film 17 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability throgmartin 17 hours ago Chassis battery replacements Canada/US throgmartin 17 hours ago Ever Removed a Furnace? dlelsner 17 hours ago Main engine AC 2000 Windsor trailmug 17 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability amphi_sc 17 hours ago Ever Removed a Furnace? Chuck B 17 hours ago Ever Removed a Furnace? Scotty Hutto 15 hours ago Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Tom Cherry 15 hours ago Chassis battery replacements Canada/US Tom Cherry 14 hours ago Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Dennis H 14 hours ago Chassis battery replacements Canada/US Tom Cherry 13 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability rpasetto 13 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability Dr4Film 12 hours ago Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... pduggs87@gmail.com 12 hours ago Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Tom Cherry 11 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability Ivan K 11 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 10 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability throgmartin 10 hours ago Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Dennis H 10 hours ago Main engine AC 2000 Windsor b_faster 9 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal vanwill52 8 hours ago Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Tom Cherry 8 hours ago Penquin AC Unit Availability Ivan K 8 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 8 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 6 hours ago Magna Shade for sale fits 2004 Dynasty and others. Tim.dougherty@comcast.net 5 hours ago Magna Shade for sale fits 2004 Dynasty and others. gregolson65@yahoo.com 5 hours ago Magna Shade for sale fits 2004 Dynasty and others. Tim.dougherty@comcast.net 5 hours ago Magna Shade for sale fits 2004 Dynasty and others. gregolson65@yahoo.com 5 hours ago SeaLand Magnum Opus Tolet - Wanted vito.a 5 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal Frank McElroy 4 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 4 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal Frank McElroy 4 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 3 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal Ivan K 3 hours ago Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 3 hours ago New Posts Ever Removed a Furnace? Bob Nodine 23 hours ago Scotty, On our 2006 Diplomat 40PDQ the furnace under the frig has one output directed to the dinette area and a duct beneath the floor that has three outputs, one to the bathroom, one to the middle of the hallway in the shower area and the other in the bedroom. The other furnace is in the curbside front slide and only has three outputs all in that slide. The wife likes a warm floor so we do use both of ours. I expect how one used either the heat pumps or the furnaces or a combination is personal preference. I don't know but think these only come in the 30,000 BTU size. I believe many who have a 2005 or earlier coach did remove that furnace to install the Samsung but those years had a lower ceiling height. Your coach is the first year Diplomat with the higher ceiling. Its your call so do what makes you happy. Bob Nothing Works Dr4Film 20 hours ago For 120 VAC start at the Auto Transfer Switch where both shore or generator power comes from as it makes it way to your main power panel. For 12 VDC check all of the typical shut-off switches like the rotary Battery Disconnect Switch, the Battery Cut-off Solenoid controlled by the "salesman switch" at the entry door, etc. Do you have an Inverter/charger onboard? If so is it on? Ever Removed a Furnace? Dr4Film 20 hours ago Scotty, Fred White had the furnace removed from under his NotSoCold in order to install a Samsung RF 18 fridge easily. When needed he would use his rear furnace. Gene Howe also removed both furnaces so he could install his Samsung RF-197 fridge in his 2003 Diplomat. He also has an Espar diesel fired heating system installed at the same time which uses heat exchanger's similar to what the Aqua-Hot system uses. Penquin AC Unit Availability Dr4Film 20 hours ago Whenever you have a new Penguin II AC that requires the 10 button CCC-2 thermostat you will ALWAYS need to purchase the conversion board if you plan to use the old style 5 button CCC thermostat. None of the new Penguin II AC's will run with the 5 button CCC thermostat without having the conversion board installed. Ever Removed a Furnace? jacwjames 20 hours ago My Windsor has the furnace under the refrigerator, my Norcold died in late 2018 and I replaced with a residential. I installed a Samsung RF18 and also kept the furnace, which is a Suburban which has a zero clearance design, meaning it could be mounted on wood. My furnace was actually mounted on a small wood platform to elevate it about ~3/4" underneath the platform, from what I could determine was to be able to route the LP line underneath to service both the furnace and the refrigerator. The platform itself raised the furnace 1 5/8" off the floor. With my lower ceiling I had to get all the height I could to put the Samsung in. Here is a link to a post I did on IRV2. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/samsung-install-finally-done-461001.html I had great advice from Bob Nodine and Van Williams. Main engine AC 2000 Windsor walt2137 19 hours ago I have the low pressure 38 to 40 on a 90 degree days and be sure to have a shop fan on the condenser or the high pressure will get to high on the coaches with the condenser in the radiator stack. Your total amount of 134 will depend on the length of the coach. Nothing Works Frank McElroy 19 hours ago When you say you had your " 'ring and pinion' (?) freeze/lock up and when it broke loose it made an awful jerk and thump" what do you mean. Were the rear brakes rusted to the drums and they broke loose or do you mean you actually had a failed rear end or a broken u-joint? If it was the latter and the drive shaft was loose then I would first look for damaged wiring hit by the drive shaft. Penquin AC Unit Availability throgmartin 18 hours ago Richard, this used to be the case but Dometic just changed their board a few months ago ( finally ). It is plug and play now with a 5 button thermostat. We just did a multiple AC change out with the brand new Penguin II's on a customer coach and my tech said there was no conversion kit or other board needed. I will double check with him again and let you know if in fact this is the case and I didn't misunderstand him. The funny thing is Dometic never told anyone about this. Not even our wholesaler. We never got any Tech bulletins or updates from them and we actually bought the conversion kits ( which are now setting on the shelf ). Penquin AC Unit Availability amphi_sc 18 hours ago Richard (Dr4Film), What is your source of information or first hand experience with the new units that Chris T mentioned in his post where Chris posted an update from his tech (Dustin) on one of his latest swap outs? I am hoping Chris can double check the new information he got and verify a model number of what they used? Chris, thanks for double checking with Dustin. I appreciate it. I guess our posts are overlapping in the Ethernet 😀. I think it will only be a matter of time before I'll have to start replacing my originals. I'm also looking/thinking about possibly doing a remote temp sensor at the original CCC thermostat location and possibly mounting the wider CCC2 some place else. But then I would have to fish another cable... I appreciate your expertise in these matters. Too bad I may not be in Florida for many many months. Penquin AC Unit Availability Dr4Film 17 hours ago Whoops! Well the two new Penguin II's that I installed in the winter of 2018/19 required the conversion board in order to use the old 5 button CCC thermostat. Since I was installing two new ones I didn't need to purchase the conversion boards. Their model numbers were 651816CXX1CO and I purchased them from PPL in Texas. Item from receipt below. 2 651816CXX1CO *PENGUIN HC H/P CCC2PW,15K 964.99 1,929.98 If in fact Dometic has updated their new units so that the conversion boards are no longer needed that is a BIG plus for those that do not want to upgrade to the new CCC-2 thermostat. However I absolutely love and recommend the new 10 button thermostat as it is light years better than the old CCC thermostat plus you can actually view it easily. Penquin AC Unit Availability throgmartin 17 hours ago Chassis battery replacements Canada/US throgmartin 17 hours ago I forgot to mention, with the Interstate battery failures we are seeing the death of these batteries are being caused by an internal short which is most likely caused by a failed plate. The Interstates used to be a robust battery but obviously they changed something in the manufacturing process. The Duracell commercial 12 v chassis battery is very well constructed with a much better internal construction that will handle adverse conditions such as vibration. This is why we use them exclusively. Ever Removed a Furnace? dlelsner 17 hours ago Scotty, I removed the heater that was under the old not so cold when I installed the new counter depth frig. It was really quite easy. The heater came out through the outside panel heater door. The duct work had to be capped off when I removed the false floor that held the Not-so-cold. I just installed small covers over the duct ports in the floor. On the outside I removed panel door for the heater and reinstalled it as it was on the outside. I plugged the feed LPG line and pressure tested the cap for leaks before locating in under the floor. I used the 120 electric supplied to the Not-so-cold for a power line for the new frig. The removal was a good thing to do as it lowered the frig so my wife could reach everywhere inside. We have not missed the heater which as Bob noted did supply heat to the rear outlets of the Camelot. Main engine AC 2000 Windsor trailmug 17 hours ago My sig owners manual indicates the refrigerant quantity (4.0 lbs). I believe to determine the correct quantity, you really need to be able to measure the amount of liquid in the receiver, which is impractical in a service setting. The pressures will be in range (with low suction as Ivan mentioned) as long as there's some liquid in the system and there's enough surface area available (not flooded) in the condenser to condense gas. Mine was cooling just fine before I recovered 2.5 lb to fix a leaky hose. 4.0 lb appears to be a pretty common value with Roadmaster chassis / SCS Frigette-based systems, so it's probably a safe bet. If you go too far, the high side pressure begins to rise as the effective surface area of the condenser is reduced by being stacked up with liquid. You're at least 1 lb overfilled at that point. Edit: the 2009 Dynasty manual in the downloads section also indicates 4 lb 134a. 👍 Penquin AC Unit Availability amphi_sc 17 hours ago Thank you, Chris, for taking the extra effort to verify for me. Just as a guess, perhaps the difference in model numbers with Richard's 651816C versus what I finding now as 651816H explains something. At least now I think I could plan for the 651816HXX1C0-01 and perhaps get flexibility of either thermostat depending on wall space I can find. When they become readily available, I am desiring polar white 15K (high capacity) heat pumps and not just A/C only units. Again, many thanks! Ever Removed a Furnace? Chuck B 17 hours ago The best way I know of to determine the furnace ducts in the floor run the entire length of the coach is to open up either the front most or rear most vent and place a flash light shining toward the other end of the coach. Go to the next vent, open it up, and using a small mirror look to see if you can see the light. Keep working toward the opposite end of the coach. The floor ducts opening depends on the year, make, and model of the coach. You can also vacuum out the saw dust that was left in the ducts during manufacturing. Ever Removed a Furnace? Scotty Hutto 15 hours ago Thanks everyone for your replies. To clarify, I already have a RF-18 installed (for about a year now), but my wife finds it very difficult to use because the top 2 shelves are up pretty high. We have a step stool and have tried adjusting shelves to no avail. I’m thinking life may be better for both of us if I play the percentages on needing that second furnace and lower the fridge, and y’all have given me valuable insight. Thanks, and additional comments and suggestions are most welcome Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Tom Cherry 15 hours ago I THINK that I have Moen fixtures in the Camelot. Really doesn't matter.... I was adding some Happy Camper to the gray tank today. I filled the sink and then put in the chemical and stirred it. I then pushed down the lever to open the drain or raise the stopper. OPPS....it be BROKEN... I used a knife blade to catch the edge of the stopper and lifted it out. BOY DID I LUCK OUT.. The metal rod was rusted.....it failed in the typical hourglass or conical shaped mode. BUT, the 1" or so metal tip that broke off came UP with the stopper. It hit me later.....DUMB @$$. You should have bailed out the sink, then removed the trap and THEN done your trouble shooting... WHY....because I always use the Sanicon. I have never used the Stinky Slinky. My GS, at a very young age was told to save Pop-Tops by his dad. He was camping with us and had one in his pocket. Somehow it made it through the Spendide and got caught in the Sanicon. I had to rebuild it. Moral of the story.... Tell the Laundry Person to ALWAYS check pockets.... When you break a Drain Stopper, always immediately remove the Trap and dump it and retrieve any metallic or otherwise parts that can get caught in the Sanicon.... Oh WELL.....NOW I KNOW.... Chassis battery replacements Canada/US Tom Cherry 14 hours ago Chris, that is good to know. The Interstates that I have used, probably for the last 20 years, have been reliable for starting or Chassis. Many folks, whom I trust due to their knowledge, intellect and experience, have had great success with the Interstate Cranking batteries. It SOUNDS like Interstate has changed the coating process of the plates. I learned a lot from some members on and offline. When we fuss about batteries, we are typically talking about damage to the plates. The coating peels off (often from being dry or lack of an electrolyte). That coating collects on the bottom of the battery and builds enough to rattle around and SHORT out the battery. The shorted cell is easy to spot. If you have a 6 VDC battery and charge it, then measure the voltage. It will read aorund 4.5 or maybe 4.75 VDC. That means that only TWO of the cells are working. The other cell is shorted out. You will also see that when you test the Specific Gravity. I found this out when my original Interstates failed. I then, very stupidly, found that out when I let my golf cart sit for too long. Even a robust battery like the Trojan T-105 ain't THAT bullet proof. I replenished the electrolyte (it took a LOT). Charged and then drained and charged again. All was WELL....but then I drove it. OPPS.....the coating started peeling from the vibration. I lost two batteries....quickly. That is what is PROBABLY happening.... Thanks for the heads up..... Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Dennis H 14 hours ago Tom, mine was PLASTIC. 😁 That said, when Debi dropped one of the toilet bowl wand ends down the toilet, I simply used the stinky slinky until it passed then I was good. I've rebuilt my macerator twice due to the impeller failing. It's one of those things we never think about if it's in storage for a bit. That impeller dries on the side of the unit until we use it again. I've taken to adding a bottle of mineral oil to the tank during the last flush out before storage and it seemed to have helped. ..Dennis Chassis battery replacements Canada/US Tom Cherry 13 hours ago I would go with the Trojan T-105. The cost of such will be $100 - $120. They are robust. They will last for many years as long as they are not too BADLY abused. They outlast all the other brands. I had read good things about them here. But, the clincher was a tech from Lazy Days that relocated to NC. He worked for a buddy who was the GM at a HR and Chevy dealership. He said that if a customer brought in an Interstate House that was dead, most likely it had no electrolyte. He would advise them....these are not gonna come back. If they said....REFILL and RECHARGE.....only 25% of the time did that work. BUT, if they were Trojan's, then the success rate was around 75 - 80%. The Trojan T-105 is the most popular golf cart battery in the US. One OTHER THING....and this is just for general infomation. I am an advocate of well cell batteries. They suit my needs and provide me with over 7 years of life. Now having said that, one has to understand that Wet Cells need preventative maintenance. You must replenish the electrolyte. You must USE them.....and discharge them periodically to say 50%. IF you are like me, I rarely drain mine as I don't dry camp. I also have a BIRD (Bi-Directional) charging system. I store the Camelot with a 30 amp service. I have Pulse Technology defulfanation modules. SO, I try to give them TLC. If I do....they last. I understand WHY folks like AGM's. But, as a moderator, it is our responsibility to make sure that folks are knowledgeable enough and make good decisions. Too many times, when an inexperienced or perhaps an experienced MH owner, without a lot of electrical knowledge reads the posts....the posts are "AGM's are the MAGIC BULLET". They don't need electrolyte. They are maintenance free. That is probably true.....but with some qualfications. IF you abuse (overcharge or have an electrical charging issue, one event can be catastrophe. You can KILL them or destroy them. We see TOO MANY posts... Switched to AGM's. Bought a bank of them when the old wet cells went dead. They are now dead and the dealer says they are toast. Will have to replace. Why did I only get 2 years out of them....?? There could be many reasons. The folks that are very knowledgeable and like the AGM's are typically VERY ELECTRONICALLY SAVVY. They have the need for such. They have some nice monitoring equipment. They know what is going on at all times with their batteries. They may have special needs or they dry camp a lot. What we fear is that someone will just skim or make a decision without fully understanding the pros and cons of AGM or the reasons that you might need them. This has been banging around in my head for a few days....so here goes. If you understand HOW to maintain Wet Cells and how to get good life out of them....then some of us don't feel that we get any value or advantage from switching to AGM's. That is NOT knocking the AGM's...it is just our personal preference or how we think we need to spend our money. If you get 7 - 9 years out of a bank of Trojan T-105....then you would need to get maybe 12 or so years out of the lowest cost AGM's. Will that happen? I don't know....but from what i read, I am not going to make that investment. In summary.... If you have a rig that does NOT have BIRD or Bi-Directional Charging, I would be WARY. Now some folks will stick on a charger....and charge the Chassis or the House. BUT, if you put on a run of the mill charger, you stand, I believe, more of a change of messing up or overcharging the AGM's. Wet cells DO need water. SO, If I did not have a newer MH....then I would be wary. Now, if you have upgraded your Charger/Inverter or put in the Blue Seas ACR or a BIRD system and understand HOW to set up your Charger and also how to read the remote and also what is happening....then you may be alright. If you buy a MH and it comes with or the electrical system was DESIGNED for AGM's....then you will be OK. I have two personal incidents that make me wary. First....recently, my Magnum remote failed. It was quirky. I noticed little things. I trouble shot it. I talked to Magnum. OK....PROBABLY the remote. But when the remote failed....it told the Magnum charger that I have a 1500 Amp Hour bank. The Charger then did its best to work with a bank that was 3 TIMES what I actually had. I really worried about my Trojans. I tested them and they were not abused. BUT, if I had had AGM's and the Remote failed....then who knows. You need, if you convert to AGM's fully understand HOW to reconfigure and how to monitor your charger. So many folk, unfortunately, NEED a new bank and there is a reason, unbeknownst to them, that they have a charging or an electrical problem. They say....HEY....put in AGM, they are idiot proof. WRONG. AGM's required a higher level of understanding that does Wet Cell so you know WHAT to do and WHAT NOT to do. Second....and this is over a 20 year history. I have owned Vettes. They are not driven that often. GM had a bad run of Delco side post batteries. They leaked. GM gave me a new one and then it leaked. I have the scars on my garage floor to show that. I read a LOT about the Optima AGM. I read hot rod blogs and Vette forums and such. I even talked to the Senior Tech at the local Interstate distributor. He said....not for me. We (interstate) do not run AGM's in our trucks. We have had a failure rate (will not crank) that is higher than the conventional Wet Cells. Optima is not any better. I read all sort of bad reviews where the AGM's failed quicker than did the conventional batteries. My wife's 2014 Upper end Caddy has an AGM. If failed. I will probably put back in an AGM when it goes out again. The charging system is designed with variable charging and was meant for an AGM. My 2016 Vette has a wet cell....there was NO AGM Option. Most Vettes (C&) came with the Battery Monitor Option ($90 or so). This is just a Vette labeled low amperage maintainer. It may not even be a Defulfanator. It is private labeled and I can't find the info. SO....when the Vetty battery fails.....regular for me. I DO use a maintainer on BOTH vehicles when we take long road trips and leave the cars in the garage. These are low amperage units and they maintain the battery. It takes about 2 days for them to read "Full Charge". When I come home....the cars start and the Voltmeters read what they should. SO....if you decide to go AGM's, do some research. make sure that your MH's system is working properly. Make sure that you have a method of maintaining charge on your House (assuming AGM's) at all times. Make sure that you reconfigure the Charger remote and that it WILL work (or have settings) for an AGM. Then, if that is your choice and you understand and pay the additional money for the convenience....and hopefully, the additional life.....that is your call. Hope this helps..... Penquin AC Unit Availability rpasetto 13 hours ago A few months ago our old front Penguin-II Heat pump was toast so we searched & called around for a 651816HXX1C0-01, planning to change the front thermostat also to switch the front thermostat to the CCC2. After a frustrating experience with two different RV parts dealers telling us they "had" the Penguin, ordering one and then discovering they did not have it or had a different model, we made a decision to go with the Blizzard-NXT, model H551816AXX1C0. it's about 3 1/2" higher than the Penguin-II model but other than that, works the same with the new CCC2 thermostat. ... Rick P 05 Sig Penquin AC Unit Availability Dr4Film 12 hours ago Rick, I was actually ready to purchase two Blizzard-NXT units versus the Penguin II's when I realized that they were significantly higher than the Penguins. In fact the new Penguin II's are higher than the old version of Penguins. Even with the new Penguin II's I have only 2-3 inches of clearance to park my coach under our house in Florida and that is with dumping all of the air out of the air bags. With the Blizzards I would not have the room to pull the coach under the house. Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... pduggs87@gmail.com 12 hours ago How long does the Sanicon impeller generally last? I replaced mine a year ago. The one I removed had no fins left on it. I was surprised how quickly my tanks emptied, after installing a new impeller. Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Tom Cherry 11 hours ago That depends.....if you have the ORIGINAL Sanicon, then you have the lower OUTPUT model. They upped the capacity to around 14 or so (memory) from 10. They also upped the current draw. The switch that turns it on.....UNLESS your Dynasty has a relay (we have folks that have prints and can help), then you MIGHT need to add a relay if you upgrade to the new pump. The life.....that is based on how you use it and how your abuse it. If you do a lot of beach camping and wash off a lot of sand....that will grind down the impeller. i find that one of the most damaging factors of the life or efficiency is the "Hair". I have put in a screen filter (drops right into the shower drain) to catch my falling folicles....as well as my grand daughter that sheds like crazy. Hair is the enemy of ALL macaerators....even the city sanitary systems. They are the 15 HP and higher models. SO.....If you eliminate the hair buildup around the shaft....that improves the life. The other secret is "scraping off the food". Food particles, if you have a clear coupling, come out at the end of the Gray tank being dumped. Really an issue. I bought a new pump with on Amazon. Eventually, you will have to purchase the Head Kit package. That is upwards of $75. I just bought a new pump. It is in. I rebuilt my old one. So, I can swap it out in 15 minutes. I DID put Hex Washer SS screws in the top of the "box", so I could easily get the top off and fix the pump or do whatever. If you have gone this long....you are lucky. Keep doing what you are doing. Hope this helps... Penquin AC Unit Availability Ivan K 11 hours ago How much taller are the Penguin II compared to the old ones? That might pose a problem for me too in the future with my current 12' door... Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 10 hours ago Well replacing the throttle position sensor (includes whole throttle pedal assembly) did not fix my problem. I still have the warning light. The codes indicate the throttle position sensor/Idle validation switch. This problem has been intermittent for sometime. Previously I've been able to rectify the problem by shutting down and restarting. This is no longer working. I'm needing to move on out of my present location for work. However I don't want to head out with the warning light on and then have the engine de-rate to idle in the middle of no where. That includes driving it to a distant heavy truck service centre. I've sprayed contact cleaner on the connector at the pedal hoping that would help but no change. Anyone have any ideas on what I else I can try to fix this problem? Penquin AC Unit Availability throgmartin 10 hours ago Ivan, they are about the same size. The new Penquinn II's are also a bit quieter. Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Dennis H 10 hours ago LOL @ Tom. I did the same. We gotta quit 'saving' things. 😁 My shed is getting full. It's sure a shame that it's cheaper to simply replace things rather than rebuild. Paul, the impeller is the only thing really that goes south as it takes the brunt of everything that's pushed through the unit. It also dries out when not in use for awhile so any crud that adheres to it, even hard water etc. can cause it to adhere to the housing. Then when you do use it, it takes off some or a lot of the rubber. FWIW, I take mine apart at least once a year, usually during my annual inspection/service, to clean the chopper blades of hair and any gunk that's there. I also replace the clear hoses that attach it to the drain at that time.......Dennis Main engine AC 2000 Windsor b_faster 9 hours ago When I repaired my Dash A/C on my 2000 Windsor 6+ years ago It required around 4lbs on a 40' coach. My unit has an expansion valve, so low side will change from 25-40 PSI depending on temp. High side max is 250 PSI, however with the length of hose, I kept way under, in the 200 PSI range for max on a 90ish degree day. What I did do to verify was to use calibrated gauges and do a static pressure test after the system has been off for some time vs Outside air temperature at the condenser. Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal vanwill52 8 hours ago Do you have any sort of device like VMSpc or ScanGage that can give the actual fault number of the code? Frank M decoded one for me that was SID 251 and he crossed it over to Cummins 434. It might help to know the actual fault code number. Vanity Sink Drain BROKE....HEADS UP... Tom Cherry 8 hours ago FWIW.....and I been there and also talked to the developmental techs (the guys that did the work). The impeller kit comes with a paper gasket. That is all. BUT, when you take it apart, you have to remove the big "O" ring that looks like a skinny and distorted rubber band. They do NOT sell these. The only way to get them is to buy the Head Kit. So....that is why I bought the whole pump. YES. I have a spare head kit and several impellers....but I got a spare pump. YES....I carry spares.... Penquin AC Unit Availability Ivan K 8 hours ago Thank you Chris, that's good news for me when the time comes. Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 8 hours ago Van, Unfortunately I don't have anything like that...I had a mobile mechanic read the code but I don't recall if he actually said the code number. I wish now I would have asked him and wrote it down. I have a call into him to see if he remembers the code but so far no call back. He was able to stop or start the problem by wiggling the connector at the sensor connection. I've tried that but I don't seem to get any kind of reaction or resolve. I've sprayed the connector with contact cleaner but no change. I've opened up the strand of wires between the pedal and the firewall. All wires look fine. I really don't know how it would be possible to check the wires all the way back to the ECM. Maybe I'll see if I can get it to a service centre. If it de-rates to idle, perhaps I can raise engine rpm's with the cruise control? Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 6 hours ago I'm just wondering if maybe installing the new sensor did fixed the issue but the red waning light will stay on until the code is cleared? Is that a possibility? I haven't taken it for a drive but have had it running and do have full throttle response. Magna Shade for sale fits 2004 Dynasty and others. Tim.dougherty@comcast.net 5 hours ago Magna Shade in excellent condition about 2 years old. Carry bag, install tool, magnets and new adhesive discs. I put in Automotion shades in the coach so no need for this any longer. These work great to keep your motorhome much cooler inside, you can see out but others can not see in. Cost new was around $599 Measurements are 48” x 106” plus rounded corners to fit windshield. $325 shipped Thanks Tim 2004 Monaco Dynasty Magna Shade for sale fits 2004 Dynasty and others. gregolson65@yahoo.com 5 hours ago Will it fit a 2003 Windsor? Magna Shade for sale fits 2004 Dynasty and others. Tim.dougherty@comcast.net 5 hours ago Not sure, you would have to measure your windshield, the shade is 48” x 106”. The magnets adhere to the inside of your windshield and the magnets in the shade stick to them until you pull off and put away. Magna Shade for sale fits 2004 Dynasty and others. gregolson65@yahoo.com 5 hours ago Too bad I am away from home for a while. SeaLand Magnum Opus Tolet - Wanted vito.a 5 hours ago Paul, you are truly a genius! With a little bit of mad scientist mixed in. Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal Frank McElroy 4 hours ago If you have full throttle response then drive the coach. If you don't have the software to clear the code, it should clear by driving the coach. But it may take multiple drive cycles to clear an old code. But if you still have a red stop engine light, something else is going on. What codes are being shown by the ECM? Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 4 hours ago Frank, My only fear is it will de-rate and we'll be stranded. That is if the warning light is reading a current code as opposed to an old one. Do you know if sometimes the warning light will stay lit until the code is cleared? In the past it's always cleared with a shut down and restart. Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal Frank McElroy 4 hours ago Well there is no simple answer. It all depends on the ECM code and for me to give you an answer, I need the code number. Some codes will stay active until you complete a successful drive cycle and then it will clear. Others will clear as soon as the component is replaced. But, if you replaced the component and you still have a stop engine red code do not drive the coach. Even if its a yellow check engine code, you need to know the code number in order to decide if it's OK to drive the coach without it derating. I wish that I could be more helpful. Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 3 hours ago Okay thanks Frank. I have a "check engine" light, a "stop engine" light and a red "warning" light. Only the red warning light is on. The only codes this engine has produced in the 4 years we've had the motorhome have been related to "throttle position sensor". In fact 14 times, this according to the mobile mechanic, According to my engine operation manual, a throttle position sensor issue shouldn't cause the "warning " light to come one. Only coolant, oil pressure, intake manifold temp, engine over-speed and fuel temperature are related to the warning light condition. I'm kicking myself for not writing down the code number when the mobile mechanic did the diagnostic. Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal Ivan K 3 hours ago I would say that unless you can get someone to come and scan the current codes for you for cheap, you might as well invest in scangauge d or similar and have it with you for the future. That is my philosophy and what I did, scangauge always on and recently added insite if more info needed. There is no telling if you got an other code in the meantime. Throttle Position Sensor at Pedal privcap1 3 hours ago Ivan, Yep I think I need something like that so I can deal with issues like this. To unsubscribe *|member_name|* click here:https://www.monacoers.org/settings/?area=newsletters We welcome your comments and suggestions for our newsletter. Please send comments to newsletter@monacoers.org Copyright © 2020 Monacoers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
  12. Ivan, Yep I think I need something like that so I can deal with issues like this.
  13. I would say that unless you can get someone to come and scan the current codes for you for cheap, you might as well invest in scangauge d or similar and have it with you for the future. That is my philosophy and what I did, scangauge always on and recently added insite if more info needed. There is no telling if you got an other code in the meantime.
  14. Okay thanks Frank. I have a "check engine" light, a "stop engine" light and a red "warning" light. Only the red warning light is on. The only codes this engine has produced in the 4 years we've had the motorhome have been related to "throttle position sensor". In fact 14 times, this according to the mobile mechanic, According to my engine operation manual, a throttle position sensor issue shouldn't cause the "warning " light to come one. Only coolant, oil pressure, intake manifold temp, engine over-speed and fuel temperature are related to the warning light condition. I'm kicking myself for not writing down the code number when the mobile mechanic did the diagnostic.
  15. Well there is no simple answer. It all depends on the ECM code and for me to give you an answer, I need the code number. Some codes will stay active until you complete a successful drive cycle and then it will clear. Others will clear as soon as the component is replaced. But, if you replaced the component and you still have a stop engine red code do not drive the coach. Even if its a yellow check engine code, you need to know the code number in order to decide if it's OK to drive the coach without it derating. I wish that I could be more helpful.
  16. Frank, My only fear is it will de-rate and we'll be stranded. That is if the warning light is reading a current code as opposed to an old one. Do you know if sometimes the warning light will stay lit until the code is cleared? In the past it's always cleared with a shut down and restart.
  17. If you have full throttle response then drive the coach. If you don't have the software to clear the code, it should clear by driving the coach. But it may take multiple drive cycles to clear an old code. But if you still have a red stop engine light, something else is going on. What codes are being shown by the ECM?
  18. Paul, you are truly a genius! With a little bit of mad scientist mixed in.
  19. Not sure, you would have to measure your windshield, the shade is 48” x 106”. The magnets adhere to the inside of your windshield and the magnets in the shade stick to them until you pull off and put away.
  20. Magna Shade in excellent condition about 2 years old. Carry bag, install tool, magnets and new adhesive discs. I put in Automotion shades in the coach so no need for this any longer. These work great to keep your motorhome much cooler inside, you can see out but others can not see in. Cost new was around $599 Measurements are 48” x 106” plus rounded corners to fit windshield. $325 shipped Thanks Tim 2004 Monaco Dynasty
  21. I'm just wondering if maybe installing the new sensor did fixed the issue but the red waning light will stay on until the code is cleared? Is that a possibility? I haven't taken it for a drive but have had it running and do have full throttle response.
  22. Yesterday
  23. Van, Unfortunately I don't have anything like that...I had a mobile mechanic read the code but I don't recall if he actually said the code number. I wish now I would have asked him and wrote it down. I have a call into him to see if he remembers the code but so far no call back. He was able to stop or start the problem by wiggling the connector at the sensor connection. I've tried that but I don't seem to get any kind of reaction or resolve. I've sprayed the connector with contact cleaner but no change. I've opened up the strand of wires between the pedal and the firewall. All wires look fine. I really don't know how it would be possible to check the wires all the way back to the ECM. Maybe I'll see if I can get it to a service centre. If it de-rates to idle, perhaps I can raise engine rpm's with the cruise control?
  24. Thank you Chris, that's good news for me when the time comes.
  25. FWIW.....and I been there and also talked to the developmental techs (the guys that did the work). The impeller kit comes with a paper gasket. That is all. BUT, when you take it apart, you have to remove the big "O" ring that looks like a skinny and distorted rubber band. They do NOT sell these. The only way to get them is to buy the Head Kit. So....that is why I bought the whole pump. YES. I have a spare head kit and several impellers....but I got a spare pump. YES....I carry spares....
  26. Do you have any sort of device like VMSpc or ScanGage that can give the actual fault number of the code? Frank M decoded one for me that was SID 251 and he crossed it over to Cummins 434. It might help to know the actual fault code number.
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