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  1. Someone commented to me one time that "You must be pretty rich to be able to afford such a fancy motorhome like that". My response is that I've found you can only be one or the other, not both. 😁
    4 points
  2. You get what you vote for? It’s Not Who Votes That Counts, It’s Who Counts The Votes
    3 points
  3. Thanks ,we found what yiu were talking about and got the slid in. It is a lippert. Thanks
    3 points
  4. No, you only plug the two lines going to the wax valve. You leave all the other lines going to motor untouched. The wax valve is in the "control circuit" of the pump. The more fluid that flows through the wax valve, opening the bypass valve in the motor, allowing most of the hydraulic fluid to bypass the motor, resulting in lower fan speed. On the other hand, plugging the line (2 plugs so the fluid doesn't flow out) will result in pressure increase to the bypass valve in the motor, applying all the hydraulic fluid to the motor thus increasing fan speed. In either case, you are not letting any hydraulic fluid "out" (except for a tiny bit when you remove the connector from the wax valve and put the plug in). You need the hydraulic lines to the fan motor and the power steering pump connected to the hydraulic pump. This is only affecting the "control" of the fan motor.
    3 points
  5. Both Oregon and Washington have a public agenda with the goal of forcing people into public transportation, riding bicycles, and walking. Oregon recently spent $200,000,00 replacing a heavily used 4 lane bridge which crossed the Willamette with a bike-pedestrian only bridge which is little more than a postcard novelty. Now that previous traffic is funneled into an existing bottleneck which the state has no intention of ever replacing. All by design.
    3 points
  6. LATE BREAKING...I just received a call back from Optronics, who made my overhead fluorescent fixtures. They researched them....and could NOT determine the specs for the early 2000's units. One SENIOR Tech said that he THOUGHT that the Ballasts were NOT ELECTRONIC. Therefore, the GE Tubes that I posted are not compatible with them. He believed that the ballasts were more of the conventional "old style" where there is a preheater voltage to "start" the light and then it drops off to the run voltage. That would explain the two step or dim, then bright startup. As we talked, he said that the 12 VDC Ballasts, he was told, was a different "Critter" than the AC Ballasts. All the info we have today primarily deals with that. Therefore, I am removing the tubes that I just installed and will look at other options....which are pointed out in my posts that follows. Thanks to the folks that were involved and commented as they prompted me to do the research. The lights work great.....but the question is HOW LONG will that last. The Senior tech did say.....we used one brand (could not remember) and we also got some from a vendor in Taiwan....but based on his recollection....they were not electronic and the part numbers were so old that you could not find specs on them. The overall comments about how they are made are correct. My ballasts are working and I only found a few cases where folks had lost the ballasts. That may be good....but based on age, there COULD BE (no evidence) some failures. Please read carefully....I will add a comment to my additional post.... We have used the Camelot for almost 2 years equivalent....so it has not set in storage that much. I replaced some of the Fluorescent Tubes in 2017 and I knew that more were probably starting "age". In the OLD site, there was quite a bit of discussion that if you kept nursing along the OEM Fluorescent fixtures and the bulbs were aging....that had some impact on the expected life of the ballasts. There was also a lot of discussion about the RFI (EMF? or NOISE) associated with the Fluorescent tubes and their impact on the electronics. Specifically the "clock" or chip that drives the Intellitec EMS as well as some of the 5 button TStats....and a LOT more problems on the Intellitec Multiplex circuitry....whether the full blown version on the Dynasties and above or the hybrid in the Camelots. We were boondocking at a Cabelas in RIchmond and had noticed some failures. For the record, we have 3 18" (2 bulb) fixtures up front in the living-galley area. I keep the front one OFF and we only use the center and rear one. There are also 3 fixtures in the bedroom. One 18" and two 12" ones. I had elected to only run one of the 12's and the 18 as that was way more than enough light. I did not mention the Bathroom or the "hallway". I have decided to DO THEM as well as the 18" also.... Bottom line....I did some research....and also did some replacing.....so this is MY experience and MY thoughts....others will differ and that is what makes us unique. I am quite capable of rewiring or replacing or removing the fixtures or the ballasts and installing the LED Arrays. However, I had also done a major project for the church and learned some things from the Duke Energy experts....as well as a buddy who came across an interesting LED feature....not on ALL LED tubes, but more common now than before. If you have 120 VAC Fluorescent fixtures and have had them for a while, odds are, you MIGHT have had to install a ballast. I have installed 4 ballasts at home as I do not want to have to rehang or find an equivalent fixture....the DW LOVES the kitchen one....so nurse it along. With the newer technology LED Tubes, you can USE your existing Ballast....OR you can wire around it and feed the LED's 120 VAC line voltage. If you google "remove ballast for LED conversion", you will find many articles....all are simple and you can actually follow the color codes if you don't quite understand the schematic. SO, that will be my NEXT replacement.....LED's running off Line Voltage at home. OK....back on track. There are TWO types of LED's for RV/Marine. One is advertised as a 12 VDC or Ballast type. From what I read on Amazon, the light output from 12 VDC is reduced. The ratings were not that good. I read NO MORE and passed on this option. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH if that if your cup of tea. Then, I found that the GE 12" tubes were priced at Lowes at the same or cheaper than Amazon and they are BULK Shipped and not thrown into a box and banged all over the country. So, I bought 4 of them. I decided to use the TWO 12" fixtures in the Bedroom and then switch off the 18" one. We have the "Daylight" tubes....some original and some from 2017. The ones that I put in are "adjustable" in that you have THREE different temperatures....they come as COOL WHITE...which matches the LED's that I used when I converted the puck and socket lights to LED many years ago. The map lights are the only incandescent and I can't get the cover off.... I was PLEASANTLY surprised.....the two (2 bulb) 12 LED fixtures with Cool White put out MORE than a "smidge" (subjectively) than the single 18" and the one 12" (both are 2 tube fixtures). DW is elated. MORE light....and she is now moving from the OMG, I want daylight to "Hey, CW is cool". Here is the link to the Lowes 12" tube that I bought. They popped in easily and are starting instantly....so no issues.... BTW....the Lowe's price on the Fluorescent is $9 and the LED is only $13.... I think that the LED tubes for our MH used to be about twice that....but I might be wrong.... I am now saving 4 Amp Hours of my batteries....WOO HOO!....every little bit helps.... https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Color-Correct-Technology-8-Watt-EQ-12-in-Daylight-Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb/5000762909 I think, from watching, that the old ballasts will do an INSTANT start on the new LED's and there is certainly NO Hesitation. BTW.... I GOOFED. I was checking the "switch" on a tube and realized there is a TOP and a BOTTOM to the tube....there is a label on the tube, but I failed to turn them all UP. WOW....with all of them turned DOWN and shining....it is MUCH brighter. Pay attention to the label side and it should go UP. Hope this is of interest....
    3 points
  7. One of the first things I did on our last two coaches was reprogram the key pad along with new key fobs. If I need to unlock the bay doors, I just press the button on the key fob. It just doesn't get any easier than that. I can also use the digital key pad to unlock the bay doors.
    3 points
  8. Here's a screenshot of the Door Lock page from the 05 Sig WD book, if it helps.
    3 points
  9. Heard from kids at the playground: "That guy must be rich", watching a 30 foot Class A go by. Reply from parent sitting on the bench: "Used to be".
    3 points
  10. Can ya take it without the baby? Not ready to do that again 🤔!
    3 points
  11. Isn't there a hydraulic shop in your neighborhood? I had mine rebuilt the same day by a local shop for what it would cost to ship them one way. There is nothing special about them, in fact these are just baby cylinders compared to what they work on for construction companies and farmers.
    3 points
  12. ** Fake News My apologies ** I'm over on the west coast so you guys are up long before I surface. I'm in a park and the volt meter was 'deployed and owned' by another "motorhomer" who was checking his own batteries and wanted to use my rig as a comparison. I just unpacked my gear and retrieved my own volt meter and checked, of-course they are 12 volt batteries - Truckers Choice. I should have know better. I haven't a clue what the other guy was doing but I thought I saw a 20 'something' volt reading. He probably had the thing set on some weird setting. Any tool in the hands of a novice is a dangerous thing. 'Never trust a reading that you didn't take yourself.
    3 points
  13. First, when attempting to troubleshoot electrical problems, you need to separate them so that one doesn't play into the others. You have various sources/devices that can generate power to your coach. Shore power - 240 VAC split into TWO separate 120 VAC circuits or 30/20/15 amp supplying 120 VAC to all circuits. Generator - supplying 120 VAC to all circuits. Inverter - supplying 120 VAC to some circuits by converting 12 VDC to 120 VAC MSW or PSW. Your Inverter also charges batteries when either hooked to shore power or generator power. House Batteries - 12 VDC powering all 12 VDC circuits. If you are having a 120 VAC problem it's best to disable the Inverter completely so you can focus on either the shore power supply or the generator power supply. Once you have confirmed that neither one of them is causing your problems then you disconnect all 120 VAC power, shore and generator, and turn on your Inverter so that it is the ONLY device supplying power to your coach. Once you have done all that you will have a better idea as to what is going on with your electrical systems.
    3 points
  14. To center the steering wheel on a Monaco you open up the plastic around the base of the steering column, remove the pinch bolt on the u-joint, drop it down, center the wheel, pull it up and re-insert the bolt. Takes about 10 minutes.
    2 points
  15. I agree with you Gary and the slightly excentric gear relation to steering wheel should have been done in the factory and left alone, along with the pitman position. With most cars, final steering wheel centering is done along with toe settings, the steering wheel is locked straight ahead and then each front wheel adjusted to spec.Our drag link brings an other adjustment option on diesels with this arrangement. And then comes the road crown predictive adjustment to throw a wrench into it... Stabilizer may need readjustment if used too.
    2 points
  16. In my opinion there is zero loss of fuel mileage with dash A/C on a adequately powered Diesel engine. My coach only varies about 1.5-2 mpg when towing my race car trailer that is approaching 10k lbs. so the 5 horsepower it might take to drive that a/c is nothing
    2 points
  17. Lost another hub cap. The roads suck. Beware, there is a stretch of hwy 5 around Buttonwillow in Ca where they are doing work. The south bound lanes will switch and you go left on part of the old north bound lanes. There is a sign that will say slow down, rough road. Get in the left lane and stay there. The right lane is unsafe at any speed. The potholes are big enough to hold fish and boat in. The worst of any road we have seen in North America. We lost the hub cap before we got to that stretch of road. I saw the other semi's move to the left lane ahead of me and I followed their lead and I did not have to suffer the damage that stretch of road could do to a motorhome. Just a heads up. Woody Miller
    2 points
  18. If its a Lippert, the manual tells how to remove rubber plug on end of motor to spin it with an attachment and electric drill. Plus you have to know which solenoid to use I think a hex key to loosen or a set screw to activate in or out for the slide. Im sure I have Lippert manual but depends on your set up. I could email the manual our go online and download .
    2 points
  19. And yet the residents keep endorsing the people responsible for the mismanagement of state dollars. What does that tell you about the intelligence of those that keep doing the same thing getting the same results but expecting something different and better. ROTFLMFAO
    2 points
  20. One of the big problems is the never ending desire to build bicycle paths which are rarely used versus roads which are so badly needed. As Gary stated earlier the issue is the push to force us into using public transportation. Fuel taxes are continually going up in order to penalize those of us who don't want to "take the bus" to go camping!
    2 points
  21. Oh so true Oregon and Washington are racing to catch up with California stupidity. They make have a ways to go to learn how to steal and mis appropriate funds for public improvements. Very sad day when we are dealing with these types of problems.
    2 points
  22. CA has let their roads deteriorate for so many years, then a tax proposition to fund highway improvements was passed. Once the tax was levied, the state shifts money previously allocated for roads to other uses. We are seeing some improvements but it will take years to get to where the roads should be.
    2 points
  23. So i did kinda the same here at the house,(stick an brick) i managed to connect the hot on the wrong position. As you have both sides of the GFI i placed one wire on the top left terminil, i then placed the other on the lower right terminil…. It would not work period! So i used my multi meter an i had power so i raised the right side wire from the lower right terminil to the upper right terminil. Come to find out the lower terminils are for IF your using the GFI to protect another circuit down stream of that plug, so input at the top & others on the bottom… i broke the golden rule by reading instructions…
    2 points
  24. I replaced mine with Rose joints and stainless steel threaded rod.
    2 points
  25. JD, you have to know what came standard on the coach and what was an added option that was included on top of the standard base price. NADA is confusing to use in that way. AFAIK the King Bed was a true option whereas generator, awnings, AC's & heaters, slide-outs, etc. are all standard equipment.
    2 points
  26. We are supposed to lock our bay doors??? I do not even know which key works on the basement doors..... Ken
    2 points
  27. I had the same trouble with my 05 sig. motor just got old and weak. Mine was from 1999 Ford Taurus, 99 tp 01 Lincoln or 99 thunderbird. All passenger window motors. Pretty easy change. Kwikee sent me a motor that was wrong then said I had ro do update kit for 600. Motor from Napa was 85. Good luck.
    2 points
  28. You were right Ivan. I was able to get some help today to watch pull forward and back up. Forward everything turned as should same with backing until I hit the brakes the tag locked up brake off everything turning. I have been having alternator problems so I guess I was just paranoid. Thanks everybody for your responses
    2 points
  29. Funny, someone asks about washing their roof, and everyone want's him to paint it 🤔! Even if he painted it, it will still eventually need to be washed, then the walls will need to be cleaned! One thing that may work ( I've never had the ball's to try it), is ask your wife to follow you around the coach with another hose, washing the detergent off the walls, as it comes off the roof. Water full of detergent drying on the walls is usually the biggest problem.
    2 points
  30. You mean the roof is supposed to be white?
    2 points
  31. For those of you that have been around for a long time and visited the Diamond Hill Monaco repair facility might remember Mary Moppins. She would hold seminars on waxing the sides and top of coaches. No matter what brand of wax you used on your coach, she would ask you to glide a terry cloth over the waxed area. Then she would spray on her Advantage waterless wash protectant product on that area and wipe it dry. She would ask you to glide the terry cloth over the same area for you to experience the amount of drag. She made a believer out of everyone who tried. An easy wipe on, wipe off application. www.goclean . com. Leave out the spaces. Chuck B 2004 Windsor I might add that it worked great on the front windshield making it easy to remove the bugs. Worked great on the inside of the glass shower door. Chuck
    2 points
  32. Hey Ken, so it appears i have the info in my files in the coach, im heading there shortly an will read you the PN off my invoice. In the mean time i went to the cummins part catalog its saying for my ESN (46279317) the pn is a 3286293 which reading the supersession list is the Original that was installed, which has been superseded over 5 times to what is being shown is now a 3804927 So like i said i will go get whats writtin on my invoice.
    2 points
  33. Rick, Windsor's did come with the Intellitec EMS Load Shedding System, at least mine did. However, people when posting need to identify what they are referring to. Whether they have some sort of EMS system (aka Progressive Industries or Southwire or Hughes Power Watchdog which are three suppliers that come to mind) that monitors the incoming power to their coach which is generally installed prior to the transfer switch OR are they posting in regards to the Intellitec EMS Load Shedding System.
    2 points
  34. Back in ~2006 I was involved in a restart of mines that had been shut down for ~4 years. Eventually (somehow) I was promoted to Maintenance Manager. The equipment that was still there and usable did not meet the new Mine Health and Safety Administration (MSHA) diesel particulate criteria. We had to test and maintain records along with ventilation surveys etc. Even most of the new equipment did not meet the criteria. We had to install DPF on pretty much all the equipment and purchase the equipment to be able to clean the DPF which was a high temperature oven and a vibrating table that would shake the soot out of the DPF while it was baking. We monitored all the equipment with computer, would download the data at every service (essentially weekly), some of the newer equipment that came equipped with the DPF's did regenerate and we could actually see it on the printouts. We had to keep detailed records of all of this On the equipment, as the back pressure climbed on the exhaust system, we'e ultimately pull the DPF and put one of the spares. Each engine by make, model, size had different DPF's. We spent +$1M on all of this to bring the mines in compliance. What we learned over time is that the equipment that was run hard and hot would benefit from the DPF's and that they would have to pulled and cleaned a lot less frequently then some of the other equipment. We also found that some equipment it would not work at all, we had to remove and operators would have to wear personal protective equipment (masks etc) to protect against the diesel particulate. So when all these types of systems were being developed the first generation of engines performed poorly. This probably includes motorhomes that started to have this equipment installed. I knew the Knoxville Cummins Manager and would stop in and talk to him and he commented that the engine manufacturers were scrambling to develop engine to meet the EPA requirement (Tier engines) and it seemed that just when they got the bugs worked out of engines they would release a new Tier and they'd start all over again. So if you own a coach with this type of equipment I'd suggest you do your research and be proactive to maintain it. I guess I'll keep my 2002 with a ISC 8.3
    2 points
  35. As I’m not as knowledgeable about the Foretravel, King Air, Essex and Cornerstone I had to looked them up. Each is built on a Spartan K3 or K4 chassis and all have passive steering tag axles. This means that the wheels on the tag follows the path of the drive axle and the driver doesn’t direct them with the steering wheel. Passive steering is just that, passive. They “float” left or right as they follow along behind the drive axle. With active steering the direction of the tag wheels is controlled by steering the front wheels. In other words you turn the front wheels with the steering wheel and the tag axle wheels turn at about 50% of the angle the front wheels turn. This eliminates tire scuffing while leaving the tag axle in full contact while carrying their normal load 100% of the time, including when the transmission is in reverse gear. Passive steering doesn’t do this. While both prevent tag axle tire scuffing when traveling forward at low speeds, passive doesn’t function in reverse and does not eliminate tag axle tire scuffing. The thing that confounds me is that when you put the transmission in reverse, the passive tag is brought to straight and allows tire scuffing when backing into a campsite. So I’m confounded why Spartan mechanically forces the wheels straight when backing but doesn’t have an active forward steering. Newell’s tags are active in both directions when going slow. It’s not needed at highway speeds. Active air suspension means the ride height of the coach is adjusted multiple times per second to compensate for road irregularities and to keep the coach level. Not the same thing as active steering tag axle.
    2 points
  36. Yeah, they told him his DPF was cracked. Or maybe the mechanic was on crack...... can't recall 🤔!
    2 points
  37. Break up the tubes and spray them with a good termiticide. I buy it at the DIY Pest Store and mix it in a 2 gallon garden sprayer. Also spray anything the touches the ground such as tires, mud flap, and jacks. Then spray inside anywhere you think they may be hiding. Wait 1 week and spray again. When you block the return path to the ground nest they will die quickly.
    2 points
  38. Picked these up a Locke Supply in Tulsa OK. They had several sizes and also straight thru connections. With my discount, they were $8 each. Twist nuts are maybe $0.50 to Monaco so you see why they are not used. Ran 19 amps thru a combination of the red and black but all thru the white. Checked temperature with infrared gun and no change. Will pull cover off at a campsite connected to 50 amp service and recheck temperatures in the near future. I am comfortable with the new connectors. Middle picture, lower right ports are for wire. Upper left are access to the set screws. These had Allen set screws and made it very easy to tighten. It was a bit tight getting the 6 ga stranded wire into the 4 ga hole in clamp. My travel electrical bag did not have any copper crimp rings big enough for the ground. I will do that the next time I am in the J-box
    2 points
  39. This Coach was showcased-back in January and was supposed to be on display at the Tampa Super Show. It did not make the show because of some Technical Difficulties. Newell does make a very fine coach. After watching the Video and comparing all the amenities that were presented I thought I was watching a Video of my Foretravel. Foretravel has all these systems Integrated into the ih-45 and some in the Realm. The Quality of a Foretravel is superb and the Foretravel Factory Support is excellent. We looked at the Newell prior to purchasing our ih-45 and I just could not see where in the Newell Justification for an additional million bucks. After four years of owning our ih-45 we know we made the right choice. We have put over Forty Thousand miles on our coach with very few issues and all were minor or operator Error. The ih-45,like a Newell and a Prevost Conversion require a whole new learning curve to operate and be familiar with all the technology that these coaches have.
    2 points
  40. Might as well use your tickets to start a fire. I bought the correct numbers a few hours ago.
    2 points
  41. I have not read thru all the posts, but this is what I’ve done with my last two coaches. The last photo does not have the oblique cover installed. I have the info of what I used. The ballasts were left in place and just bypassed after the switch on the fixture.
    2 points
  42. I suggest looking at the information in the parts list under chassis, air springs (starting around page 21). There is a lot of pertinent information on air bag suppliers and part numbers. On coaches with ping tanks it's critical to have the larger diameter air connection. On coaches without ping tanks like your Windsor, you can use either the smaller air inlet or the larger air inlet with an adapter.
    2 points
  43. I find that hard to believe. Please post a picture. Chuck B 2004 Windsor
    2 points
  44. While my airplane has a single 24V battery, never seen a 24V car/truck starting battery. What’s the voltage across the lugs on the batteries?
    2 points
  45. Ok, my mistake, I apologize. I get my posts to the group in a form of a email which sometimes does not include the posters name and coach model. Wonder if the group moderator can fix that? In the mean while I will go to the group site to read the group posts. Chuck B 2004 Windsor
    2 points
  46. The voltage swings that you are observing when starting a cold engine are your plate heater cycling on and off, this is a normal occurrence.
    2 points
  47. I use Tri-Flow on all of the points listed on the Exhaust Brake Lube Chart which I included below. If you have the Upgraded PRXB you include the base of the spring too. There is also a YouTube Video showing how to lubricate the exhaust brake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_wX98sHBpU PacBrake Lubrication Chart.pdf
    2 points
  48. I would recommend buying the ARP controller if you have a NoCold 1200. It’s better at controlling and preventing fires: https://www.arprv.com/index-amp.php
    2 points
  49. RV Glass Solutions (part of Coach Glass) in Eugene Oregon. Had them replace our windshield gasket (was done in their Elkhart, IN facility) after the last glass installer made a mess of it. Absolutely perfect now!
    2 points
  50. Dynasty owners are always left out. We are nice people, really. 1997.
    2 points
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