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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/18/2021 in all areas

  1. I replaced mine with Rose joints and stainless steel threaded rod.
    2 points
  2. Lost another hub cap. The roads suck. Beware, there is a stretch of hwy 5 around Buttonwillow in Ca where they are doing work. The south bound lanes will switch and you go left on part of the old north bound lanes. There is a sign that will say slow down, rough road. Get in the left lane and stay there. The right lane is unsafe at any speed. The potholes are big enough to hold fish and boat in. The worst of any road we have seen in North America. We lost the hub cap before we got to that stretch of road. I saw the other semi's move to the left lane ahead of me and I followed their lead and I did not have to suffer the damage that stretch of road could do to a motorhome. Just a heads up. Woody Miller
    1 point
  3. Good luck trying to find a TPMS that does exactly what you are wanting it to. In regards to the extenders, I have posted numerous times on the old Yahoo Monacoers site and here about getting rid of any and all extenders as they are an accident waiting to happen. Single piece stems from Borg are the only stems I will allow to be used on the wheels on my coach. They have been there ever since 2010. I only had one problem with one of the inside dual wheels which was the stem was not made correctly and it allowed for the Dyna Beads to get lodged inside the stem. I made Borg aware of the problem and they gave me a brand new one to replace the defective one which solved the problem. The important fact is that I have never had to deal with any leaks, etc. I purchased a set for the front wheels and a dually set for the rear wheels which came with the special donuts to stabilize the long inside stem as it makes its way through the outside dual wheel. https://yourtireshopsupply.com/manufacturer/38/borg-equipment It's best to call them directly to make sure you are ordering the correct parts for your wheels. Since I was in Southern California at the time, they were right down the street from where I was staying.
    1 point
  4. Hi Scott, Let me try to find actual roof photos for you. in the interim her is a description: Rear camera: mounted just above or below the typical rear Monaco camera indent. Wire goes into the end cap and comes out the air intake on the roof. Run the wire up the center, using dicor and 3m tape backed wire holders with small zip ties side cameras: depends on your slide configuration and your fridge chimney. My setup has the one big slide on the driver’s side, and the fridge is on the passenger side. Passenger side camera: mounted about 6” below the roof belt line, under and clear of the rolled up awning. Wire is wrapped in insulated metal foil tape and goes up the chimney for about a foot. Exit though the vent cap, run the the center to meet the rear and driver’s side cable. ‘Driver’s side cable (big slide side): trickier. I mounted the camera on the slide, left 2.5’ of slack (hidden by the slide awning). I put 2 pieces of 2”x2” clear canvas repair tape on both sides of the slide awning where I punched a small hole and put in a grommet. The wire will show as it passes over the roof radius, so after sheathing it in UV protected woven sleeve ( polypropylene) I rattle canned it to match the paint. Almost invisible from all angles. Runt that to the center to meet the other two wires. Sleeving: I used the 1/4” for each individual cable (takes a while, and buy a big roll). After the three wires meet in the middle of the roof, I used 3/4” to sleeve the already sleeved individual cables. Front cable: as close to the windshield without going through the glass. It will pop out behind your front cabinet, although you may need to cut a hole in the front cabinet back to fish it out. I have solar on the roof, so I zipped the camera cables to the solar cables for neatness. No cross talk either. The three camera cables (rear, left, right) enter where my old dish antenna was. WireGuard makes a sealable roof plate for the cables to enter. Bundle and run all the wires down through the driver’s side A pillar (flexes and comes out with removal of a few screws). While you are there, run another HDMI cable from under the dash up to your main TV monitor (a or stereo receiver- I use regular home Onkyo equipment instead of car stereo amps, and a small separate 400w inverter mounted in the front electrical bay to power just the Wifi system, camera, stereo and sub woofer. That way I can leave just that low loss inverter on instead of my main 3000w inverter. Tie into the power and ground under the dash.I tied mine into the left and right turn signals, but not the backup, as I have another camera dedicated to just the backup and hitch. I tapped the 12v from the dash radio power, as my dash radio is really another monitor for the dedicated rear/hitch camera. The 360 system accepts memory cards and USB drives, either of which record everything like a dvr. Make the control unit it accessible because mem cards and usb drives have a limited life (years, but still). You will want to back up your settings, especially the calibration settings, for when something dies. That way you can replace the controller or mem card and not have to re-calibrate. Also useful if in an accident for insurance another, more robust option is to use a small portable ssd drive (64G is, I think, the max size). They support many more write cycles than a good mem card or usb thumb drive. Monitor(s): I used the 10” monitor that they sell, and use the HDMI cable. I put in an HDMI splitter too, so I can see the 360 camera in my main TV, and since I have the front and rear TVs connected with an HDMI cable, I can use the 360 system as a security camera (the night vision is awesome). Notice that you can barely see the small painted camera. And the dash display lines up like a video game when you drive. It in no way blocks your vision
    1 point
  5. Sounds as if the outlet is a GFI which requires specific wiring. Should have taken a photo before disassembling the old outlet
    1 point
  6. Dunno if this could have any bearing on the first couple, but In general my preference is thread sealer vs teflon tape. Little shreds can let go and get stuck in valves causing leaks.
    1 point
  7. Top of link where rubber end, circled in picture, is bolted to lever of air height control valve . Valve is to the left. rubber end at bottom of linkage (not shown) attaches to bracket on differential. This bracket is vertical, about 10" long and has 5 or so holes. The bolts thru the rubber end are shoulder bolts were the shoulder pulls up against the steel lever or bracket. the body of shoulder bolt is long enough that the sleeve inside the rubber end is free to rotate as the lever moves up and down with the body of the motorhome. This position is probably with the air bags deflated.
    1 point
  8. Ok everybody!! Here is what I have found by talking to others about the so called CUP’S. I am adding a drawing based on touch and no site other than another post elsewhere that removed his bed in a 09 Diplomat. I’m still looking for that pic. Based on little conversations with people who own 2008-2010 Knights and Diplomats, those years have them. Now mine was built in Oregon so maybe an Oregon thing. One of our members in Canada has the same coach as I, and if I remember correctly (CRS) he had the same issue. So my take on this is IF water gets past the Side or Top rubber seal, then it should get stopped by the so-called Dam (90 degree pc of plastic screwed and caulked sides and top of slide) water then should run down the side Dam, which is angled outward at the bottom to drip outside. But mine doesn’t extend far enough so it drips into catch basin (CUP) and then drips outside. BUT, if the (CUP) back side drops down, ie no support, then the CUP fills up and runneth over into coach. Ta da!!! So here is my sketch:
    1 point
  9. JD, you have to know what came standard on the coach and what was an added option that was included on top of the standard base price. NADA is confusing to use in that way. AFAIK the King Bed was a true option whereas generator, awnings, AC's & heaters, slide-outs, etc. are all standard equipment.
    1 point
  10. Found 3 2004 Dynasties for that price or less… even a 06.
    1 point
  11. JD, I don't believe that the coach has any options that would increase the price significantly over base. Most of the stuff came standard on the 04 Diplomat except for the King bed. Plus it needs a new set of six tires as stated in the description.
    1 point
  12. Pick up my 04 Executive for less money then that 2 years ago. Look some more.
    1 point
  13. Needs tires. Says entire wiring replaced due to lighting strike. Would be curious to know what the title status is. But yeah, it’s high priced. Punch in options you get to average retail of $58k
    1 point
  14. Bought my '99 Windsor for $36,000. Stored indoors since new with literally thousands of dollars in parts and camping accessories. To high.
    1 point
  15. The price is WAY too high for that coach even with the upgrades. You can get a lot more coach higher on the food chain for that money.
    1 point
  16. NADA average retail is $47,400. Low retail is $39,350. Also, the book says its 330hp. 2004 Monaco Diplomat Series M-40PDQ 330hp Prices and Used Values | NADAguides
    1 point
  17. These are the same for top and bottom. I carry a complete rod set from Napa in case one got ripped away by road trash or such.
    1 point
  18. Update the repair shop replaced the TCM but still unable to communicate with the RV to receive codes. They test drove the unit 3 times no issues with shifting. However I’m concerned that they still don’t know what caused the shifter to shutdown in the first place. I’m concerned it would happen again. I desperately seeking any other advice
    1 point
  19. Good job finding and resetting that fuse! There is a direct wire from the battery bank to the transmission TCM. Not sure, it may be the one you are resetting. I would start by finding it, cleaning the terminals, and changing the fuse. I would also check and clean the TCM and transmission shift pad ground wires. I like to use DeOxit to clean terminals. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=deoxit&qid=1629993103&sr=8-1 Hope you find it!
    1 point
  20. Figured I would wrap this up. kit is installed, ride height is set, bags seated correctly, rear air leaks are gone ( must of been bag or bags) found front air leak is the drain valve on front of coach, which I temporarily capped off until I can get a new one. Gonna take it for a ride on Saturday in to town to get oil changed, looking forward to see how it rides now. special notes removing tires makes the job way easier ( need 1” impact and 33mm socket) rear shocks have limit straps which makes install easy. Install and cut. front shocks don’t and it was all I could do to compress shocks to get installed not sure why they don’t include a screw in T fitting for tank this would eliminate 2 chances for a leak and one less fitting. ( I had one and used it) had to buy 4’of 1/4” airline not supplied in kit. on mine, leave airline goin in to ride height valve, exit valve with new line and go to tank T, dump line out other side of T If air bag is extended when you get it, compress not worrying about rubber bag position and use large tie wraps to keep it that way until installed. Once installed and not tightened, cut them and remove. See below.. once installed and hoses plumbed, LET THE JACK DOWN BEFORE STARTING COACH AND ADDING AIR. This was a DUH moment for me. if rubber part of bags are not in position correctly as above, after air is full, loosen ride height valve and use it to add air until bags correct themselves. They will with a loud pop or two. The reattach the arm and check ride height. set back, drink a beer and admire your work with a “yea, I did that grin on your face” special shout out to Source Engineering. Jim and Scott were very helpful with replies to question and customer service is top notch!!
    1 point
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