Monacoers Daily News
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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Gweedo
96 EVO
Ivan K
Gweedo
96 EVO
Ivan K
Gweedo
Ivan K
Gweedo
Discussions
Dave Shackelford
I have a 2005 Monaco Camelot 40 pdq. Where can I find a new step motor ?
thanks,
Dave
Dave Shackelford
Where is the control circuit board located for the front windshield shades ?
thanks,
Dave
Tom Cherry
12 hours ago, biloxi_dad said:Thanks for the Owner manual for the ME2012 inverter/charger. I have one already, but the one you provided was much updated (2017) compared to mine (2005). Not sure how much is valid to my older unit. In my manual, it does mention resetting the unit, but doesn’t tell how. I have done the factory reset option on the remote, but no luck getting the charger to operate.
As stated in my original request for assistance, I have checked and reset the breakers on the inverter/charger.
I have removed power from the unit by opening the 120V breaker on the main panel in the back bedroom for the inverter and connecting the 12V battery bank to the inverted/charger unit. When I close the 120V breaker and power is applied to the unit, I can hear what sounds like a unit under the kitchen power up (humming) for about 5-10 seconds. Then the humming stops and in the past that’s when the inverter/charger would come on according to the remote readout. I could always hear this when I start the genset and it supplies voltage to the coach. But now once the hum stops, nothing else happens. The readout shows current house battery charge and the red”fault” light comes on the remote and it reads DC Overload. Is it possible that the T Series fuse to the Inverter/Charger is blown? Would this cause my problem? This fuse is in the battery bay on the other side of the wall from the Inverter/charger.
Back to basics. First, here is an older manual.
Circuit board for shades
Tom Cherry
The circuit is on the prints. I do NOT think that there is a "Circuit Board". It is strictly switches... and two relays... The prints we have on FILE are the PITS....blame Monaco. However, the shades are pretty much universal. The best print is from a 2003 Dynasty. I have downloaded it and included it.
You MIGHT want o download the Dynasty prints....YES...you have a LOT of different stuff. BUT, the common items are the same and the Dynasty prints actually show SCHEMATICS and not "plugs and harnesses.
Here is the file. LOOK at the index that someone prepared. Page 99 shows the one that I have pulled before. That is how it works... The logic is a bit contorted (memory), It MAY involve switching Grounds... a COMMON practice with Monaco. But, if you sit down and start to follow it...it makes sense.
Here is the Dynasty file... and the printout of page 99
Dual Shades Circuit - Dynasty...and probably OTHERS - Circa 2003.pdf
Dr4Film
Just to add on to this "Check Your Base-plate" before travel thread of my recent discovery.
I had towed my 2006 Saturn Vue for the past 15 years. I recently switched vehicles back in early March to another 2006 Saturn Vue in much better condition that was already setup for towing with a Blue-Ox Base-plate. I checked the 6-way connector, it all worked correctly. I moved the RVIBrake Charge device over to the new car along with the RVIBrake seat brace for the brake unit to rest against. I also installed my dash, 30 amp, bypass switch to the lower left dash area.
Well, after closing up the house yesterday, then moving the coach out onto the access road to hook up the car. I got everything out to start connecting the car to the coach. I get my set of Blue-Ox pins out then sprayed some T9 Boseshield onto the pin and receiver and placed it into the receiver to lock it in place. Well, WTF!!! The pin was not locking into position. It would simply rotate around and around. Holy CRAP!!!
Well, as it turns out, I had no idea that Blue-Ox would make different types of pins for their base-plates. My old base-plate had used "short-short" pins whereas this base-plate uses "short-long" pins. I made a quick call to the Hitching Post in Ocala to see if they could help me. It was 3 pm by then and they closed at 5 pm so I had to get on the road NOW!
I had my wife drive the car while following me in the coach. We got there at 4:45 pm. They had the pins that I needed so $106 dollars later and an extra 85 miles of unnecessary travel plus diesel and we were back on the road to New Hampshire for the summer.
There isn't anything noticeably different between the two vehicles except that my old one was FWD and this new one is AWD. The front ends of each car looked exactly the same.
BTW, when I installed the new pins, each one was "leaning" to the passenger side of the car versus having the slot for the tow bar connector ideally straight up and down. Obviously, the fabricator at Blue-Ox must have had a few too many beverages for lunch before welding the pin receivers to the base-plate. Luckily, the tow bar connectors do compensate for their manufacturing error.
All is well!
Dr4Film
16 hours ago, John C said:Now I know why, because my coach doesn't come with a door, so my coach has a corner much higher than that of yours. If I don't do anything, the 30" door will be 4" over the cabinetry. Looks like I will have to cut the corner so the door can move 4" extra inside toward the wall.
Thank you!
This confirms what I had suggested earlier in that the original owner must have made a custom change to the coach when it was built requesting no door in that location.
Dr4Film
Now get yourself some 303 Protectant and spray those lenses 3-4 times a year and they will stay that way.
Faded head lights
Gweedo
I have a gallon I’ll check it out, didn’t realize you can use it on them. Thnx
jacwjames
12 hours ago, John C said:I believe it is a filler, of course I won't know until I open it.
The box is over 4" in height, so I will have to cut it for the door to move all the way in.
The only thing is I just installed vinyl floor on it, will have to remove it, cut it and put it back.
Can you look in the cabinet next to it and see if there are any wires or pipe going to that corner and out.
David Pratt
Attached are a couple of pictures of the water pump installation in our Foretravel ih-45. I also attached a drawing of the Foam Isolator Mounting Block I made for mounting the Water Pump to keep it very quiet.
Circuit board for shades
jacwjames
What is wrong with you shades? Mine are made by Colorado
When both of ours quit working we found a blown fuse.
The the passenger side would not work. Took it down and found the small motor failed. I actually think my wife put something on the passenger side console where the switch was and it was pressing the shade switch. When I took the shade apart the motor got so hot that it melted the plastic end.
I ended up replacing the small motor, found on on Amazon that would work, slightly smaller but has the same mounting and speed.
Tom Cherry
I'd be reluctant to use it.... THERE IS A SPECIFIC PROTECTANT in the kit....see the STEP 4 instructions. There are volatiles and such in the 303. It works great if you don't do anything but POLISH. The protectant wipes are on of the "UNIQUE" things in the kit. I have seen some bad things happen when you use other products. That is why the kit is so high, $$. But, yours. Once you use the 303, it will probably wash off the special coating.
BTW...FWIW.... All that kit does is get you to BARE plastic.... and THEN there is a "Specialty Ceramic Protectant"...
As I stated early in the topic, the old fashioned and cheap way is to clean off the brown/yellow oxidized finish with an insect repellant...with a high concentration of DEET. DEET is a powerful "plasticizer" eater upper.... LEARNED THE HARD WAY.
BUT, what you are doing is just using a solvent to take off the haze. You can polish or abrade off the out film or use DEET and wipe it of. Probably need to do a little touch up with something like ScatchX. That is NOT a wax. Then you use a mild window cleaner or a little soap and rinse it.
NOW, you have a CLEAN unprotected coating. You are basically at Step 3 of the Kit you bought...
Then use the 303 and then reapply every one to two months. I'd hold off on the 303 and see how long the special coating or protectant lasts....
63Hotrod
14 hours ago, 63Hotrod said:At some point soon we will have to replace our 08 units. New versions of the same model are pricey and hard to locate
So looking for options and suggestions
Never used the head pump at all so can we replace without it.
What is multi zone ?
David Pratt
If Your RV Water Pump is Pulsing? Fix It!
Your RV water pump is a fantastic thing! It allows water to flow through your rig’s plumbing no matter where you are. This provides all the water-related creature comforts of home in your RV, even if you’re camped in the middle of the woods, the desert, or on the beach. But, if your RV water pump is pulsing, it can not only interfere with your enjoyment of a nice hot shower but can also mean that there’s a problem in your rig’s plumbing system.
And that problem, with the water flow pulsing up and down with the cycling of the pump, can mean a very unpleasant experience… especially in the shower. That lull and surge can cause the temperature of the water to fluctuate… sometimes QUITE severely! And no one wants THAT!
So, let’s take a look at what a pulsing RV water pump can indicate, and how to fix it!
Why Does My RV Water Pump Pulse?
Your RV’s water pump is designed to only run while the plumbing is in use. This means that you should only hear your water pump if you’re currently running the water somewhere in your RV…in a sink, an indoor or outdoor shower, the toilet, the ice maker, etc.
When you’re not hooked up to a pressurized source of “city” water, your water pump is the only reason water reaches your faucets. But again, it only runs while it’s actually making that delivery. The moment you turn off all faucets, you should no longer hear your water pump running. This is important to remember because it can help you to detect and diagnose an issue with your plumbing system, should one occur, including a water leak.
So, when you run the water somewhere in your RV, you’ll hear the water pump come on. It’s essentially compensating for the drop of pressure in the system. The faster you run water, the more rapidly the pump speed will increase to handle the demand. The pump will run constantly while the water is on, but at variable speeds depending on demand. As Tom Cherry explained in the prior post most of the RV Water Pumps, Aquajet, Shurflo etc are pulse diaphragm pumps and not centrifugal pumps, therefore they pulse when in operation.
If you hear the pump come on when you’re not running water, it could indicate a leak in the system. Remember – you should only hear your water pump if you’re calling for water somewhere on the RV. It could also indicate a broken part inside the water pump itself.
Another reason why your RV water pump may be cycling-(the water pump is trying to start and stop continuously), is a pressure switch that isn’t set properly. Your RV’s water pump uses a pressure switch to start and stop. If the switch isn’t set correctly, cycling can occur. You may be able to adjust the pressure setting. However, not all makes and models of water pumps are adjustable.
Many are, though, so let’s jump into how to adjust your water pump’s pressure setting.
How Do You Fix a Cycling/Pulsing RV Water Pump?
Depending on what’s causing the rapid cycling/pulsing of your RV water pump, there are a few different ways to address the issue.
Let’s start with adjusting a water pump’s pressure setting.
Adjust Your RV Water Pump’s Pressure Setting
To lower the cut-off pressure of the pump simply unscrew a little until you get the desired result. (You’ll turn clockwise to increase the cut-off pressure to stop the cycling, and you’ll turn counterclockwise to lower the cut-off pressure of the pump.)
It’s important to note here that the screw doesn’t affect the flow rate. It simply adjusts the cut-off pressure. Each system usually has a sweet spot. Also, as the pump ages, sometimes the tension of the spring changes, and a small adjustment can make the difference between a rapid Cycling/Pulsing or non-pulsing water pump.
The goal here is to adjust the screw until the pump delivers a steady flow, and then turn off the water and make sure that the pump turns off within about 5-10 seconds or so. When you’ve reached this goal, you’ve found your pump’s sweet spot.
- Locate the housing at the end of your water pump where the pipe is connected. The housing should have two red wires coming from it. There you should find an Allen screw (sometimes called a hex-key screw).
- Turn on your shower.
- Using an Allen wrench, turn the screw clockwise until the cycling stops. I recommends making ¼ turns at a time.)
- Turn off the shower to test. If you turn off the shower and the pump won’t turn off, you’ve turned the Allen screw too far. Back it off slightly by turning the screw counterclockwise until the pump stops.
Accumulator Tank
The purpose of an accumulator tank is to regulate the pressure in your RV’s plumbing system, allowing your water pump to run more smoothly. They were designed mostly for centrifugal constant speed water pumps.
An accumulator tank is a plastic reservoir containing a pressurized bladder. The bladder allows the accumulator tank to absorb and regulate pressure highs and lows in the system when you want more or less demand..
As your water pump runs, the pressure within the bladder will fluctuate in an effort to maintain a constant pressure level in the system. This should help with highs and lows that can cause your RV’s water flow to pulse while the pump is running.
An accumulator tank can also reduce the amount of cycling from your pump and absorb pressure drops from running the tap, meaning your pump doesn’t have to work so hard. This can increase the life of your water pump..
Are There Other Reasons For RV Water Pump Pulsing?
The most common reason the flow of water from an RV water pump is pulsing is a mis-adjustment/failure of the pressure sensor built into the pump.
As Tom Cherry suggested, It is also recommended that you can be reduced most of the pulsing by installing a looped flexible hose to the input and output ends of the pump. Look at the prior posts.
Attached is a picture of the Aquajet 55 RV water pump, other water pumps are similar. Looking at the head, on the right side of the head is the cut off switch and on the top of the switch is the allen/hex screw to adjust the cut-off pressure. on the left lower side of the pump is the pressure regulator and the allen screw to adjust the pressure output of the pump. On the newer pumps the allen screws are covered over with silicon and on some the pressure adjust switch has been eliminated.
John C
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:This confirms what I had suggested earlier in that the original owner must have made a custom change to the coach when it was built requesting no door in that location.
Yes, you are correct. There is no marks or holes on the ceiling, no door has been installed there before. Monaco must have built that box for the look.
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:Can you look in the cabinet next to it and see if there are any wires or pipe going to that corner and out.
The cabinet next to it is for washer & dryer, lot of wire pipes and hoses, again, no washer & dryer was ever installed. When I bought it it was a cabinet with 3 shelf boards, When I opened the wall, I found out it was washer & dryer ready, all connections already there, I just installed new washer & dryer and cut the vent for the dryer.
It is very hard to tell from the washer & dryer cabinet(also It will take a lot of effort to disconnect & remove washer & dryer), it will be easier just to open the box from the bedroom.
I just remove the Valid 6 Packs & 4 Pack Valve manifolds to clean it up, waiting so airline elbows to arrive. I couldn't pump the air bags up until I put those back. without air bag pumped up I don't want to extend the slide out right now
I should be able to put Valid Valve manifolds back next week. I can then open box and cut it for the door, I will relocate the wire or pipe if there are any there.
Benjamin
Accumulator tanks (bladder tanks/pressure tanks) were used with RV pumps in some cases simply to get enough flow from small single speed pumps, at least for several seconds of use. A larger variable speed pump doesn't need the same storage, and as noted in Tom's first post, a tank can cause issues with the variable speed controls. In most cases, a water hammer arrestor, or a small vertical dead end for an air chamber will absorb the pump output pulse which is a fraction of an ounce and smoothed between three "cylinders". A water hammer arrestor won't let you flush the toilet while the dishwasher is running and someone is in the shower without noticing the pressure drop, the pump will sink or swim on it's own in that case, but a gallon or half gallon of stored water in the pressure tank is not going to make much difference there either.
Bigdogracing
Hello. Well apparently our hydraulic motor has died. The new one from Lippert is around $1300 but I ran across this place that says they have the same motor for $395. Yea I am skeptical but found it on another forum and several people say they have used it successfully but curious about using it on the Monaco since this motor powers two large slides and the jacks. Open to any experience or thoughts from all the experts here! Thanks
Gweedo
There is only 3 steps , 1. clean the lenses
2. sand with two different wet grits
3. Apply final clear coat
vito.a
Have you looked into having your original hydraulic pump rebuilt?
Is it the electrical end, or hydraulic end that's not working?
If the electric end, most electric motor rebuilder should be able to fix it. I'd try a place that rebuilds starters.
Bigdogracing
I am not sure. The tech just said it need replaced. I did find someone to rebuild it but that takes weeks and I need one like yesterday of course!
Ivan K
My opinion, if the pump in fact works, it doesn't matter how many functions it feeds since it only runs one at a time.
Paul J A
15 hours ago, LakeBob said:Would love to know more about the "Turbo" upgrade. Love my original Sanicon system, however its fairly slow, especially on the larger gray tank.
Would appreciate more information as well. Should we start another post?
Thanks!
Bob
Bob; "Should we start another post?" That would be my choice.
2003 Dynasty
Anyone have an '03 Dynasty Baroness with an intact diagram on the driver side front run bay door? Mine came unglued/lost. A good quality photo might suffice, I have not seen a pdf diagram anywhere. It was a great resource. I have the full wiring diagram book but the front bay diagram is not on there Thanks!
Frank Bergamo
Not knowing what exactly is the problem, hard to give any advice to a solution. I would first start with the relay switch on the pump/motor to make sure that is not the problem. Common failure point and fairly simple fix. If no joy there, then the electric end on the pump would be next. The pump/motor runs such a short period of time, that is an unlikely failure point. Not to say that it does not fail, but I would be sure to rule out the other components before throwing money at it. Ask the tech specific questions concerning the components, making sure he has checked them before committing to a new pump. Hope this helps.
dereeves
So finally got through to the Carefree people...half of their website doesn't work and the other half was a total waste of time...the difference between the two versions of Omega from what i gathered from the lady is the Omega has a spring on the right side, has a valance and the Omega II has the spring on the left side with no valance and the fabric cover on the tube end, where as the Omega has the alumnaguard attached to the coach and covers the fabric when it is retracted. There is a spot on the front arm where a label is, but it is blank now. When i took the tube off, the spring came out in 2 pieces. The tube end of it that sticks into the arm has a printed number on it which meant nothing to Carefree, looks like a part number to me, but isn't. So another $140 bucks, wait time just to see what other parts i will need. hahahhahaha such is the story of my life, hurry up and wait. The Air Force trained me well in hurry up and wait...
bryan browne
I have the Dynasty Palace III with a full wall slide on drivers side. It has a swinging door that must be open to close the slide in to the bedroom. I also has you sliding door from the bedroom to the bathroom that has the same floor lock to keep it open when traveling.
biloxi_dad
Thanks Tom. I don’t have solar, but I’ll be giving the hard reset a try today. Will respond back with results tomorrow. Also included a pic of my remote. The green light on Charge is flashing. No AGS (auto Genny start?) plug on network input of inverter; only Remote and batt temp)
Rob M cKeown
I have an 03 Signature and had polished the headlight lenses several times and finally gave up. after much searching found the headlights were used on the Series 5 BMW. Who would have guessed that. They were exactly the same as what are on the coach and not that difficult to replace. I replaced the tail light lenses as well, huge difference.
dennis.mcdonaugh
I got mine from camping world. Good price and quick delivery. FedEx boogered up the box on one of them and broke the shroud. CW sent me a replacement before they sent an RMA to return the damaged one. Great service from a frequently maligned company.
jacwjames
Multizone is how the AC's are wired with an AC usually representing one zone. I have two AC so 2 zones, in my case the bedroom is zone 1 and the LR is zone 2. My furnace shows up under Zone 2.
Venturer
This is a bit late to the discussion, but I see about 32# of boost under full load. I thought that was pretty normal for the ISM 500, however, I'm seeing lower numbers from others. I do have the Ugly Fix now, but it was similar before it was added. I'm very pleased with the performance and fuel mileage.
Davidsharp
I agree. One day maybe ill get to meet these individuals one on one, hopefully not on side of the road. :)
timaz996
Here is mine from a 2000 Dynasty.
Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp
Tom Cherry
6 hours ago, 63Hotrod said:Never used the head pump at all so can we replace without it.
What is multi zone ?
The entire Dometic (was Duo Therm) control system is a Multiplexed system. There is a two Pair (2 wires per pair) data cable. Looks like a phone cable that runs from a Thermostat to an HVAC unit. The HVAC has 120 VAC for the compressor and motor. There is 12 VDC to power the Thermostat…from the 12 VDC in the control module. One pair of the data cable has 12 VDC. The other pair of cables carries the “Multiplexed Data signal”. There is no hard wiring or a multi wire (like a home thermostat). Just two itty bitty wires from the thermostat that gets a signal from the thermostat and sends instructions to the first HVAC unit. If there are additional units down stream, then one thermostat controls all of them..….as in Zone 1, Zone 2 or additional zones…. You just keep the data cabe going from one HVAC (Control Module) to the nest.
That is why one can NOT install a typical RV unit that requires a multi Wire thermostat cable….5 to 7 wires….and they have to be at lease 18 gauge. The data cable is probably 24 Gauyge and you only need one pair of wires…
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, biloxi_dad said:Thanks Tom. I don’t have solar, but I’ll be giving the hard reset a try today. Will respond back with results tomorrow. Also included a pic of my remote. The green light on Charge is flashing. No AGS (auto Genny start?) plug on network input of inverter; only Remote and batt temp)
There is a TECH button thqt gives the Magnum folks info. Do the hard reset. Nothing hooked up and see it every thing works….then add back in t remote. Only way to find out if the Inverter is OK and or the remote. Better to troubleshoot and isolate the problem rather than throwing $$ and buying things that are not broke.
Tom Cherry
Go to THIS topic. I posted a link close to the “top” for the 2003 Dynasty complete set of prints. Click on the link….it is in there and you can print of save as a PDF. There is a GREAT index in the front…..easy to follow and then look at the page number.
biloxi_dad
16 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:There is a TECH button thqt gives the Magnum folks info. Do the hard reset. Nothing hooked up and see it every thing works….then add back in t remote. Only way to find out if the Inverter is OK and or the remote. Better to troubleshoot and isolate the problem rather than throwing $$ and buying things that are not broke.
Tom,
Just hooked DC and AC back up to unit after 2 hrs disconnected. With AC (shore) applied, green LED flashed once/sec. When I pressed inverter power, LED went out, but I can hear unit humming. It’s been on for 10 minutes now and no LED (steady or flashing). In the past, the Green LED would illuminate steady when charging. Both Remote and batt temp sensor still disconnected. Is this correct or should I connect the remote?
Tom Cherry
3 hours ago, Rob M cKeown said:I have an 03 Signature and had polished the headlight lenses several times and finally gave up. after much searching found the headlights were used on the Series 5 BMW. Who would have guessed that. They were exactly the same as what are on the coach and not that difficult to replace. I replaced the tail light lenses as well, huge difference.
You have NEW headlights with the DOT stamp. They were molded and then a UV Resistant Vacuum applied coating, per DOT Specs, applied….as they age, the coating begins to oxidize….. However, you probably will a longer life and not have to clean and coat…,
6 hours ago, Gweedo said:There is only 3 steps , 1. clean the lenses
2. sand with two different wet grits
3. Apply final clear coat
One of the site or reviews or places called it FOUR steps….if you read the PDF, the second step is a TWO part cleaning or polishing. Thus…”four”
Semantics. If you follow the 3 steps….same as we have posted for 15 years.
The “oxidizer” removal (careful….not get on paint) is nothing more than a solvent….as in Deet.
The second step…lf you do the first step correctly, you may not have streaks….but using the ScratchX cleans them. Then wash and rinse… the kit has two different steps….thus, 4 distinct steps….
The Third Step is the protectant . There is nothing unique or magical in the first two steps….use their kit or Deet and ScratchX….you have cleaned off the haze or the oxidized layer.
NOW….the real question. Is the $18 Kit have some special or magical protectant that will last longer than Aerospace 303? That I don’t know….what do the ratings say?
My point….if you contaminate the special Cerrakote Protectant with 303….will or may shorten the life, From my background in surface prep and plastic molding and vacuum coating, if there is a proprietary protectant that crosslinks to the compound that is in step 2….then it would be highly inadvisable to adulterate it and not get the life that the kit says.
BUT if folks say it only lasts 2 months or so….then the DEET method is easier and cheaper.
FWIW. I am NOW at almost 6 years on the 3M film that I had Dazzling Detail put (a $20 tip) on my headlights….. therefore a REAL UV resistant film works….there are kits you can buy. There are clearcoat kits that you spray. But, if the original UV vacuum coating is gone….then in 30 days….they haze…
Hope this clarifies it….
Tom Cherry
55 minutes ago, biloxi_dad said:Tom,
Just hooked DC and AC back up to unit after 2 hrs disconnected. With AC (shore) applied, green LED flashed once/sec. When I pressed inverter power, LED went out, but I can hear unit humming. It’s been on for 10 minutes now and no LED (steady or flashing). In the past, the Green LED would illuminate steady when charging. Both Remote and batt temp sensor still disconnected. Is this correct or should I connect the remote?
John and I have talked….and he is going to test the inverter using the default or built in parameters…..and will post the results.
Chargerman
Continuing to help my friend with his new to him Rig. Got the new toilet in and the old Magnum Opus is going to Paul Wittle.
Went up to it today to help him understand the systems etc and the hydraulic jacks don’t work. Power light comes on on the control but none of the lights above the switches comes on when activating and none of the jacks move. Figured I’d look for a fuse but his front run bay is empty compared to my Executive. Just bussbars and connectors. No low voltage fuses. Looked everywhere inside the coach…nothing, except the Aladdin modules. Anyone know where the low voltage fuses may be?
Steve P
@Dr4Film Richard - your use of a pressure washer without inducing leaks... how did you do that? I wish you had done a video. I thought the fins on the coil were also easily damaged, and that coil cleaner, a gentle brushing, and a low pressure rinse were the recommended norm. Your thoughts and experience are always informative and I look forward to an update when you land in NH. Thanks - Steve P
Ivylog
A light misting with WD40 and rubbing for 15 seconds does miracles to fogged headlights. Lasts for several weeks. Most LED bulbs do not increase the sight distance because the light source is bigger than the filament it replaces.
I added these LED lights that made a tremendous improvement and they are adjustable in all 3 axis… necessary for mounting on the curved front cap.
Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp
dennis.mcdonaugh
3 hours ago, jacwjames said:Multizone is how the AC's are wired with an AC usually representing one zone. I have two AC so 2 zones, in my case the bedroom is zone 1 and the LR is zone 2. My furnace shows up under Zone 2.
My Dynasty doesn’t have two zones, the ACs operate independently of each other and the furnace is controlled by the front AC t-stat. Made it real simple to change out the ACs.
Martinvz
We had been traveling all day without any technical problems. We stopped at a small campground and checked in to our site for the night.
While setting up we found a strong pine scent inside the cockpit area and my wife saw some smoke. Looking under the coach I saw oil under the coach and red fluid dripping concluding that a hydraulic hose had ruptured. Note to the readers: we have a gas coach and not a diesel. Further inspection found that there is a hose that crosses over the transmission that had ruptured, spraying atf. Subsequently, started the engine and checked the transmission fluid level and that looks to be correct.
our conclusion is that it is a hydraulic line to the passenger side jack that has ruptured. We also found that the driverside jack had retracted about 2” while the passengerside is still on the ground.
I had contacted Coachnet and they will be sending a tech out to confirm that the transmission is in good shape so that we can drive the 4 hours to get home.
We have 4 jacks and they each have 2 return springs. My thought is that the jacks will retract and may leak some atf when we retract all the jacks. We can try and catch the atf into paper towels while applying pressure to the rupture point. This will then allow us to drive home on Friday.
Coachnet is sending a tech to check that the transmission is really OK and that we can drive the coach.
Any comments and advice will be welcome.
ME2012 Inverter/Charger inop. Remote Magnum monitor says “DC overload” fault
96 EVO
Humming while inverting is normal. Not so much if you were still on shore power.
Gweedo
Been a few days n started leaning to r f again. Sprayed everything no leak. Contacted Jim at source engineering, he said it was probably the r rear ride height adjuster valve. I sprayed it n one of the three fittings was leaking pretty good, he was right, they were closed when I called back to see if he had one; I left him a message.
Anyone know where to get these? I looked up some older threads but the links wouldn’t pop open.
Anyone know if you replace the entire valve or is the fitting where the hose goes into replaceable? I’d rather replace the entire valve.
Gracias Hombre’s.
BradHend
Not being rude, but what’s the point of calling Coachnet in when you have clearly found the source of the oil leak?
Martinvz
Dave, We have found our step motor on Amazon. They have quite a selection. Get the model number off the current motor.
Martinvz
Steven, Have you checked the fluid level in the reservoir? It should be full, meaning about 1/2” from the top. If it is low, that may stop the jacks from working.
96 EVO
Yeah, makes sense!
Since there is only one on the steer axle, a leaker on one of the rears can make the entire coach lean.
Sorry, can't help you with a source, but I would just replace the entire valve.
klcdenver
Cut the hose and get a hose barb splice and clamps to stop it from leaking. When you get home have a new hose made and route it properly.
Dave Shackelford
Shade goes up but want go down sometimes. I think I got it fixed. Loose connection.
Martinvz
Brad, I called Coachnet early on and found the other symptoms later as the DW and I discussed it and also investigated.
Good question and no offense taken. I guess more investigation is needed before calling for help. That said, later in the day makes it more difficult to get a tech and it was after 5 pm already.
Chargerman
Thanks for the reply. I did not check the fluid level. The owner was able to deploy them before I arrived but the front one would not retract. When I got there the warning light on the display was blinking. I located the pump and open the solenoid to allow the front jack to retract. Warning light went out but cannot actuate any jack. Power light on display does come on on the display when turning on. Thinking fuse to the pump is open but can’t find it. Didn’t have my tools so could check for voltage at the pump
Ivan K
Pat, do you really have 3 fittings on that valve or just 2 and an exhaust port like this one? If the same, the C indicates compression fittings however the pic does not show it so maybe not in this case... If yours is different, then I don't know.
richmelcole@sbcglobal.net
My 2002 Windsor's outside battery cutout switch compartment door latches are defective. They are a Southco vise action compression latch type. Does anyone have the correct part number for these latches? The latches I have now could be rotating the wrong way when latching when they do work.
Thanks, Rich
Gweedo
I will go out and look right now. it appeared to be three lines but perhaps one is the exhaust. I shall return shortly
Gary M
Is this what your looking for?
8 minutes ago, richmelcole@sbcglobal.net said:My 2002 Windsor's outside battery cutout switch compartment door latches are defective. They are a Southco vise action compression latch type. Does anyone have the correct part number for these latches? The latches I have now could be rotating the wrong way when latching when they do work.
Thanks, Rich
Or this one?
16 minutes ago, richmelcole@sbcglobal.net said:My 2002 Windsor's outside battery cutout switch compartment door latches are defective. They are a Southco vise action compression latch type. Does anyone have the correct part number for these latches? The latches I have now could be rotating the wrong way when latching when they do work.
Thanks, Rich
96 EVO
Just noticed the brand.... Automann
That's the company that made the knockoff Meritor- Wabco dryer I'm running!
Ivan K
Yes, it is a knockoff of a Hadley but at least the part number H00450 will give plenty of hits at various cost for OEM, if that's the right one.
Gweedo
I don’t think there is an exhaust port they are all hooked up.
2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Ivan K
Hmm, very different from mine, sorry, don't know this one.
Gweedo
No problem thnx. I’ll call source engineering tomorrow.
96 EVO
Doesn't look like my ride height valves either.
Grouch3d
I finally got everything working. I found 4 bad fuses under the dash, 2 bad fuses outside, my run box is on the passenger side not driver side, and a bad relay "bigger square one". Just changed everything bad as I found it. Don't know which solved which problem but the radio problem turned out to be the radio. Found that after pulling the radio. Never found anymore about the blue wire but everything on the dash now works.
Had to pull the driver seat to reach the fuse box and look under the dash. My first cursory examination of the fuses wasn't good enough I had to get in there with a test probe to find the bad fuses my eyesight isn't what it used to be.
Scott Smith
Thanks for the info, I'm working on fixing the exhaust leak, got 7 of the bolts loose the top 4 in the middle are worrying me, I keep soaking them every day. The heat shield that covers part of the turbo was broke and rubbing on a hose. I felt the turbo and it has a little play, probably end up changing it.
Maintenance on Rooftop AC's
Dr4Film
@Steve P Both of my pressure washers come with multiple different nozzles. I use one specific nozzle for doing the roof at a close range so it gets sown into the pores of the unpainted fiberglass to get all of the crud out and clean it to a pearly white. Then when cleaning the coils of the AC's I use a completely different nozzle that does not damage the fins of of the coils plus keep it at a safe distance. It's all a matter of "common sense".
As far as leaks, if your roof is sealed well then you should have no worry. However, if it isn't then I would take care of that FIRST by removing all of the OLD sealant and redo all of those areas with Sikaflex 715 White Sealant.
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