Scotty Hutto

I have first hand experience with Wacoo and RV Airflow. In my experience, both products do what they advertise. Below is my post on the Wacko where I used a sound meter to check sound levels before and after. I’ll also comment that part of my logic was that the original plastic covers were yellowed, warped, and looked awful the Wacko product was a vast improvement in appearance. I recently installed the RV Airflow product on the units with the Wacko already installed. My goal was better airflow, not necessarily noise reduction. The units provided a minor decrease in sound from 84dB down to 82dB. The major improvement was in airflow. I did not test with an anemometer, but airflow, particularly at the ends of the duct run were dramatically increased. When driving, I can actually feel the roof air blowing in hot weather. 🥶 I find there are many issues where I disagree with Dave Solberg. This is one of them, and given my degree, training, and much of my experience is in HVAC system design I’ll stick by my guns. 😁 You’ll find that a lot of the wisdom of those who have participated in the forum for many years will conflict with his advice from time to time. I’m not saying he’s wrong, it’s just that much of his advice is very generic (by necessity) and has to be applicable to everything from a pop-up to a Prevost.

AM Equipment is the OEM for many Monacos. Check to see if their name is on any of the hardware under the hood. Here is a thread on them:

Just as additional info… The Roadmaster kit came with four grade 8 bolts that carry the main load, but additionally four of the bolts original to the vehicle were reused, and they were grade 5 flange bolts. In my event, none of the bolts failed, but next inspection I may consider replacing the four grade 5 bolts with grade 8, if I can find the correct size and thread pitch in grade 8… I’ll check McMaster-Carr and see if I can find them.

Just my $0.02, but I would suggest setting up an account at a different bank, if you’re doing it for protection. Most banks (and credit unions) will access other accounts at that bank if an account is overdrawn. I set one up with Ally (online bank - there’s several good ones, that’s just the one I chose - here’s a list from Clark Howard: https://clark.com/technology/online-banking/best-online-banks/). It’s really easy to me to initiate a transfer $$ from my main bank to my Ally account, but my Ally account can’t access my main account.

EPILOGUE… The base plate was repaired this morning by a metal fabrication shop in Lafayette, LA. The gentleman doing the welding was a pipe fitter, and it showed in the quality of his welds. After welding it, they fabricated a 3/8” plate and sistered it to the original with a continuous weld around the perimeter, then re-drilled the bolt holes. Finally they painted the whole shebang and had me headed back to the coach in a little under two hours. The base plate was reinstalled by @TedZimmer, @stbfd08, Kevin Davis (Ted’s buddy), and myself. Debbie and I were on the road by 11:30 am this morning. After ~450 miles and 8+ hours (no, we don’t usually travel that far or that long; it was a family emergency), the baseplate performed just fine.

Back on the road in minutes, and back in the ditch not long after. 😳🤣 Never had to tighten them. I pull the fascia off the front of the truck once a year and check them with a torque wrench. As obvious as it sounds after reading your post, I haven’t thought to contact Roadmaster. Will do that now. I’ve been too focused on trying to get back on the road. We had a family situation arise last night that requires we divert to Tupelo, MS instead of heading home. When it rains, it pours…

- Roadmaster base plate (installed May 2019 - I have towed the truck approximately 40,000 miles since then) - Yes I used Loctite Red - Yes I torqued to specifications (57 ft-lbs for 1/2” grade 5 bolts) using a Craftsman 1/2” drive torque wrench - Yes, I checked them about a year ago. - The bolts where the base plate broke had flat washer -> split washer -> nut as per the current instructions provided by Road-master (Kit 523182-5 dated 7/14/2020) PS - I will add two additional comments: 1. The base plate was not loose when I set up for towing last Thursday. This is something I check every time 2. We came over some brutally bad roads from I-10 in Lafayette, LA to New Iberia, LA. I may have lost a few fillings on those roads, too…

I’m very lucky! As we prepared to leave the Cajun Rally in the morning and head home, I decided to go ahead and set up my truck for towing. I noticed the drivers side seemed loose, and on further inspection decided the bolts were loose and I needed to tighten it all up before we could leave tomorrow. When I got the front end of the truck disassembled (yes, it’s a pain!) to tighten the base plate bolts, I found that my base plate had broken! I’ll figure out getting it fixed or replaced, but please use this as a reminder to check the base plate on your toad annually!

Ok, to bring closure, I have been in conversation with Invision and there is currently no way for me (or them) to prevent .heic files from being uploaded. Walter has provided a link for adding this capability to Androids above. For Microsoft, it is not an “automatic” update. Go to the Microsoft Store and search for “HEIF”. This will bring up the Microsoft provided codec that will allow viewing of .heic/.heif pictures. Install that and it should resolve the issue on Windows 10 machines. For convenience, here is a link to the correct files: https://apps.microsoft.com/detail/9pmmsr1cgpwg?hl=en-us&gl=US Caution: When you search, you may also see some apps for HEIF -JPG converters. You don’t need those to view the files. Hope that helps.

There are multiple discussions of this, including Monaco’s logic on the site. Recognizing that your 2011 was built by Navistar complicates the equation, as we don’t *know* that Navistar used the same construction process as Monaco Coach Corporation (2009 and before). With that in mind, I offer the following “generic” Monaco advice: 1. Your owners manual overrides anything you read on the internet. You also may have a DVD or Blu-ray disk that came with the coach that has a video about leveling. 2. In the absence of the above, Monaco installed the slides with the suspension fully inflated and the coach at ride height. To prevent binding, it is recommended (fir *most*, if not all MCC built coaches) to extend the slides with the suspension at ride height, using the following sequence: Set the parking brake; turn off the engine. Extend the slides with the suspension at ride height (fully aired) Dump air from the suspension Level the coach, extending the front jack first and raising the front end 1-2”. This will help prevent twisting the front end and damaging the windshield (or having a corner pop out). Note: If you use auto-level, it *should* extend the front jack first, if not, use manual leveling. 3. See #1. Since your coach was manufactured by Navistar, it is possible they recommend a different sequence. ——- EDIT: confirmed in your 2011 Knight owners manual (page 98) that the slides are to be extended with the suspension at ride height. See Below: Slideout Operation Requirements: Ignition key is Off. Park brake is applied. House battery disconnect switch is on. House batteries are charged. Lock bar is removed. Jacks are retracted with the motorhome supported by the air suspension (air springs).

This is the first I’ve heard of .heic images being a problem. They display normally on my devices, with no manipulation… An HEIC (High Efficiency Image Compression) image produces higher quality images in a smaller file size than older standards like jpg (jpeg) and is created by an iPhone or iPad. So typically when someone chooses to store photos on their iPhone using HEIC, and they upload that picture to the site, it uploads as a .heic picture. Since it is a file type supported by the Invision Community software, I haven’t been able to find any setting that will prevent folks from uploading in this format. Since this is the first I’m hearing, I’m curious how many people this affects, and whether it is an annoyance or a major issue. Since I’m an Apple and Windows user, does this negatively affect Android users? Other devices? Please share your thoughts below.

I’m here in 13.

@DennisZ So sorry to hear that your wife is going through this. Please let her know she is in our prayers. I promise to do my part with the crawfish…😁

Ok, I was reading your question to be where the front cap connects to the roof. To clarify —> front/rear cap to roof = eternabond tape roof to sidewalls = belt line as described above

Eternabond tape. I believe Monaco didn’t actually use Eternabond brand tape, but had their own product that is very similar.