Scotty Hutto

Just as additional info… The Roadmaster kit came with four grade 8 bolts that carry the main load, but additionally four of the bolts original to the vehicle were reused, and they were grade 5 flange bolts. In my event, none of the bolts failed, but next inspection I may consider replacing the four grade 5 bolts with grade 8, if I can find the correct size and thread pitch in grade 8… I’ll check McMaster-Carr and see if I can find them.

Just my $0.02, but I would suggest setting up an account at a different bank, if you’re doing it for protection. Most banks (and credit unions) will access other accounts at that bank if an account is overdrawn. I set one up with Ally (online bank - there’s several good ones, that’s just the one I chose - here’s a list from Clark Howard: https://clark.com/technology/online-banking/best-online-banks/). It’s really easy to me to initiate a transfer $$ from my main bank to my Ally account, but my Ally account can’t access my main account.

EPILOGUE… The base plate was repaired this morning by a metal fabrication shop in Lafayette, LA. The gentleman doing the welding was a pipe fitter, and it showed in the quality of his welds. After welding it, they fabricated a 3/8” plate and sistered it to the original with a continuous weld around the perimeter, then re-drilled the bolt holes. Finally they painted the whole shebang and had me headed back to the coach in a little under two hours. The base plate was reinstalled by @TedZimmer, @stbfd08, Kevin Davis (Ted’s buddy), and myself. Debbie and I were on the road by 11:30 am this morning. After ~450 miles and 8+ hours (no, we don’t usually travel that far or that long; it was a family emergency), the baseplate performed just fine.

Back on the road in minutes, and back in the ditch not long after. 😳🤣 Never had to tighten them. I pull the fascia off the front of the truck once a year and check them with a torque wrench. As obvious as it sounds after reading your post, I haven’t thought to contact Roadmaster. Will do that now. I’ve been too focused on trying to get back on the road. We had a family situation arise last night that requires we divert to Tupelo, MS instead of heading home. When it rains, it pours…

- Roadmaster base plate (installed May 2019 - I have towed the truck approximately 40,000 miles since then) - Yes I used Loctite Red - Yes I torqued to specifications (57 ft-lbs for 1/2” grade 5 bolts) using a Craftsman 1/2” drive torque wrench - Yes, I checked them about a year ago. - The bolts where the base plate broke had flat washer -> split washer -> nut as per the current instructions provided by Road-master (Kit 523182-5 dated 7/14/2020) PS - I will add two additional comments: 1. The base plate was not loose when I set up for towing last Thursday. This is something I check every time 2. We came over some brutally bad roads from I-10 in Lafayette, LA to New Iberia, LA. I may have lost a few fillings on those roads, too…

I’m very lucky! As we prepared to leave the Cajun Rally in the morning and head home, I decided to go ahead and set up my truck for towing. I noticed the drivers side seemed loose, and on further inspection decided the bolts were loose and I needed to tighten it all up before we could leave tomorrow. When I got the front end of the truck disassembled (yes, it’s a pain!) to tighten the base plate bolts, I found that my base plate had broken! I’ll figure out getting it fixed or replaced, but please use this as a reminder to check the base plate on your toad annually!

Ok, to bring closure, I have been in conversation with Invision and there is currently no way for me (or them) to prevent .heic files from being uploaded. Walter has provided a link for adding this capability to Androids above. For Microsoft, it is not an “automatic” update. Go to the Microsoft Store and search for “HEIF”. This will bring up the Microsoft provided codec that will allow viewing of .heic/.heif pictures. Install that and it should resolve the issue on Windows 10 machines. For convenience, here is a link to the correct files: https://apps.microsoft.com/detail/9pmmsr1cgpwg?hl=en-us&gl=US Caution: When you search, you may also see some apps for HEIF -JPG converters. You don’t need those to view the files. Hope that helps.

There are multiple discussions of this, including Monaco’s logic on the site. Recognizing that your 2011 was built by Navistar complicates the equation, as we don’t *know* that Navistar used the same construction process as Monaco Coach Corporation (2009 and before). With that in mind, I offer the following “generic” Monaco advice: 1. Your owners manual overrides anything you read on the internet. You also may have a DVD or Blu-ray disk that came with the coach that has a video about leveling. 2. In the absence of the above, Monaco installed the slides with the suspension fully inflated and the coach at ride height. To prevent binding, it is recommended (fir *most*, if not all MCC built coaches) to extend the slides with the suspension at ride height, using the following sequence: Set the parking brake; turn off the engine. Extend the slides with the suspension at ride height (fully aired) Dump air from the suspension Level the coach, extending the front jack first and raising the front end 1-2”. This will help prevent twisting the front end and damaging the windshield (or having a corner pop out). Note: If you use auto-level, it *should* extend the front jack first, if not, use manual leveling. 3. See #1. Since your coach was manufactured by Navistar, it is possible they recommend a different sequence. ——- EDIT: confirmed in your 2011 Knight owners manual (page 98) that the slides are to be extended with the suspension at ride height. See Below: Slideout Operation Requirements: Ignition key is Off. Park brake is applied. House battery disconnect switch is on. House batteries are charged. Lock bar is removed. Jacks are retracted with the motorhome supported by the air suspension (air springs).

This is the first I’ve heard of .heic images being a problem. They display normally on my devices, with no manipulation… An HEIC (High Efficiency Image Compression) image produces higher quality images in a smaller file size than older standards like jpg (jpeg) and is created by an iPhone or iPad. So typically when someone chooses to store photos on their iPhone using HEIC, and they upload that picture to the site, it uploads as a .heic picture. Since it is a file type supported by the Invision Community software, I haven’t been able to find any setting that will prevent folks from uploading in this format. Since this is the first I’m hearing, I’m curious how many people this affects, and whether it is an annoyance or a major issue. Since I’m an Apple and Windows user, does this negatively affect Android users? Other devices? Please share your thoughts below.

I’m here in 13.

@DennisZ So sorry to hear that your wife is going through this. Please let her know she is in our prayers. I promise to do my part with the crawfish…😁

Ok, I was reading your question to be where the front cap connects to the roof. To clarify —> front/rear cap to roof = eternabond tape roof to sidewalls = belt line as described above

Eternabond tape. I believe Monaco didn’t actually use Eternabond brand tape, but had their own product that is very similar.

It’s a Leece Neville “Sales Number: 110-912”. Not a DUVAC. This is from a 2006 Dip, but my engine is a 2005 ISL400 (8.9L). My dip is the Monaco twin of your Endeavor PS - for about the price of a rebuild, you can just replace it with a Delco 28Si

I find that I must disagree that the company is questionable. They are a very reputable company that has been in business for many years. I have many years experience using the card and have never been charged anything except what was posted on the app at the time I arrived at the pump, plus the small administrative fee they clearly explain. The reality is that fuel prices fluctuate throughout the day, and TSD pays the market CASH price less a negotiated discount. (Deduction from the bank account is why TSD can get the cash discount) TSD has no control over when or how much a specific station changes their price. As soon as that price change is communicated to TSD, the app is updated. My process to avoid surprises is to check the TSD app, Mudflap, and Gas Buddy before travel in the morning, and check it on TSD again when I arrive at the station (I usually screenshot the price). There are often changes from what I saw that morning, but the price at nearby stations has changed also. Can you find fuel cheaper? Certainly. I occasionally use others (QT + my Sam's card is a good combination for me, and I like that QT stores are almost always clean), but most often find the best deal with TSD. Your mileage (and fuel stations) may vary...

@pwhittle may have newer info on Mike’s; I believe the shop was sold not long after Paul had his coach painted and I think he stayed in touch with them for a while.

The pictures look fine to me! Not grainy at all… Good stuff!

Stone Vos is the preferred vendor based on the experience of dozens (if not hundreds) of Monaco owners on this site. I have Stone Vos toppers on my coach. But they aren’t the only supplier, and you have several options based on the responses here.

Recommended pressures for most Monaco coaches are between 55-65 psi. Under that and you will have low water flow and perpetually have soap in your hair. Above that and you will use more water and have the possibility of causing leaks (the plumbing system *should* be able to hold much higher pressures ~120 psi with no problem - but these are older coaches, and the operative word is should. If you put 120 psi on your water system you will immediately find out if you have any weak spots…). Based on the experience of this moderating this group over the years, I’ve observed two basic approaches: 1. Use your fresh water tank and pump for all fresh water, and use the city water connection only to fill your fresh water tank. This is the method that seems to be preferred by the owners of upper-level coaches (Dynasty, Executive, Signature) with good water pumps (I.e., Remco AquaJet 55ARV) (editor’s note: I have a “lower level” coach - a Diplomat - but upgraded to a Aquajet 55ARV and prefer “method 1”) 2. Use city water pressure, with a GOOD regulator, when connected to city water. This seems to be he preferred method of owners of lower-level coaches with Shureflo water pumps. (with apologies to Camelot owners - I’m not sure which pump came on those coaches, but I’m certain @Tom Cherry can enlighten us A “GOOD” regulator is a brass, adjustable regulator (typically Watts, though Camco makes some decent ones too), preferably with a gauge to show that actual pressure behind the regulator. The $14.95 “barrel” regulators (restrictors) do not give the ability to adjust and aren’t really considered adequate. There are several threads on here about good regulators. Your mileage may vary, but neither approach is wrong. What you DON’T want to do is to use the pump while city water pressure is on the system (I.e., to “boost” city water pressure). This can (and will, in my first-hand experience) cause the diaphragm on your pump to rupture, causing city water and pump pressure to backfeed and cause all sorts of weird behavior. Some have done this for years with no problem, however it is not recommended by the pump manufacturers. Hope that’s helpful.

It would be great if you could post links to the YouTube videos... We could probably find them, but since you've been there... 🙂

I have used Hopkins as replacement parts for the 7 & 4 pin connectors on my coach with good results. That was in 2017 and all still work well (well, except when I crushed it leaving @pwhittle’s driveway — but that was my fault). Here’s what I used… https://amzn.to/43t3jFu

If anyone would like a copy, I’ll try to upload that dash configuration to the files tonight. 2006 Monaco Diplomat Dash - Landscape iPad.xml

I really like my Bluefire. Ot gives me a “glass dash” of sorts and duplicates all of my gauges, please a few my Dip doesn’t have. it will also simulate your fuel gauge with a calculated fuel gauge, which was very useful when my fuel gauge sender died during my 6,000 mile trip last year. Gave me comfort I wasn’t going to run out of fuel. 🤣 I have mine set up with a Check Engine / Warning icon that turns yellow or red. If it changes from green to yellow or red you can touch it and it shows the codes. You can also clear them. I’ve done it while driving but probably should have pulled over. 🙄 Here’s a pic, but the engine isn’t running so there’s no data. I have it mounted with a Ram mount on the dash to the left of the steering wheel

@stacyhall Do you still have yours?

I *believe* they may be made by AutoMotionShade. https://automotionshade.com/en-us/ The full part numbers from the Dealer Parts List are FLX-615MW-3600-4200 (36”) and FLX-615MW-3200-4200-51 (32”). While not listed on the website, it may be worth a call to their support number