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Scotty Hutto

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  1. Scotty Hutto's post in very low water flow and pressure on Hot water but fine on cold? Atwood LP/Electric 10 gallon was marked as the answer   
    Echoing @myrontruex, exact same symptoms you mention.  It turned out to be a stuck check valve.  I was able to dislodge it temporarily, but eventually ended up having to pull the water heater out of the coach to replace the check valve.  In my case (2006 Dip), I had to disconnect everything and completely pull the WH out of the coach to work on it.  Took me about 2 hours start to finish.  Everything has worked fine since (about 3 years ago)
  2. Scotty Hutto's post in Window surround sealant was marked as the answer   
    I used Proflex on mine. Others will hopefully chime in, but I believe you should use butyl tape to actually set the window, then seal with Proflex. 
  3. Scotty Hutto's post in 2006 ISL 400 Alternator and belt was marked as the answer   
    Jeff,
    There’s another recent thread with info on alternators (but not belts) for 2006 Diplomats.  Since your coach does not have a DUVAC alternator, you might rethink rebuilding your old L-N. You may be able to use a Delco 28si or similar, or purchase a new L-N for close to the cost of a rebuild.  I searched for a reputable rebuild shop for quite a while, and when I found one the cost of the L-N brand parts plus the rebuild was a major portion of the cost of a new alternator.
     
    Also, I would rely on Cummins QuikServ before the owners manual for this specific part. My owners manual for my 2006 Dip had the incorrect part number for the belt.  (And I only have one belt for the AC compressor and alternator, not two separate ones as indicated in the Owners Manual.)
    This is from the Dealer Parts list for my 2006 Dip:

    …and this is from the Owners Manual:

    Both came from Monaco  🤦🏻‍♂️
     
  4. Scotty Hutto's post in Engine Monitoring - Aladdin, ScanGaugeD, BlueFire, & VMSpec was marked as the answer   
    Use the Aladdin J1929 bus cable in the side console instead of the transmission cable. Less risk! I used a "Y" connector on the Aladdin feed, replaced my J1708 with a J1939 plug, and all works great! I *think* I sent you a PM with info on the Y connector.
    PS - I still need to write that up...
  5. Scotty Hutto's post in Dometic ac freeze issue was marked as the answer   
    The two most common reasons for coils freezing are low refrigerant and dirty evaporator coils. As this is a closed system and freon leaks would disable the system, I would suggest the most likely reason is dirty coils. Since this is *likely* a heat pump, both indoor and outdoor coils need to be cleaned. I vacuum the coils, then use coil cleaner spray.  Put plastic and towels on the bed / floor / whatever inside the coach under the units.  Although most of the coil cleaning is done from the roof, it WILL leak through to the inside.
    Here is the coil cleaner I used last time.  You can find it (or a comparable alternative) at a local hardware store, or get it on Amazon.
    https://a.co/d/aCK5AW9
  6. Scotty Hutto's post in Fresh Water Pump replacement recommendations was marked as the answer   
    Remco purchased the original company now makes a newer version of that exact pump, called the Remco Aquajet 55 ARV. 
     
    There are a few threads on here discussing it. Meanwhile here is a post from @David Pratt from the old Monacoers form discussing it. 😁
    Our Foretravel ih-45 has the Remco Aquajet 55 ARV water pump installed as well as a small Accumulator. The pump is the 5.3 GPM ARV pump. The accumulator is small about 10" long and 5" in diameter. According to my paper work the accumulator is charged at 30psi. The water pump is mounted on a 1/2" thick foam pad on the floor of the bay and is plumbed with two coiled flexible hoses. You can barely hear the pump when it is running and the water pressure is excellent. I have as much water pressure and flow as I do in my Brick house.

    I had the same Aquajet ARV 55 water pump in my 05 Monaco Executive with the Large Factory Installed Accumulator. The pump was replaced in 2008 because of a water leak due to corrosion on the two bottom screws of the pump head.. The replacement pump is still in the coach and working flawlessly.

    I rarely use the campground water as my daily water source and always use the water pump and the water in the fresh water tank when camping. I am hooked up to the Campground water supply to refill the fresh water tank as neededl.

    In my opinion replacing your existing water pump with the Aquajet 55 ARV is a good choice and I do not believe you would be disappointed. You might also look at installing the smaller size accumulator if you have the room. From what I have researched the smaller accumulator is being used in most of the marine applications and it looks like they are making thier way into the RV market.

    Just make sure you purchase the 55 ARV pump and not the ES pump. The ARV pump will give you up to 5.3 gallons per minute flow versus the ES pump will only give you 3.5 gallons per minute flow.

    I do not know where the poor reliablity came in about the Aquajet pumps, but I have had excellent service from the Aquajet ARV pump in my Exec and hope to get that same service from the same pump in our Foretravel.

    As with any product you can have a bad apple once in a while. It doesn't mean the whole product line is bad. The Remco Aquajet gets very high reviews and other than the upgrade to the electronics of the pump it is the same pump as the previous Aquajets

    "Happiness Is The Journey, Not The Destination"

    David & Sandy Pratt, Melbourne FL

    FORETRAVEL IH-45, 2016 Ford Explorer

    Bella "The Ratwieler" Yorky and RJ "The Man" Pomeranian
  7. Scotty Hutto's post in Tire date curiosity was marked as the answer   
    That date code indicates the 3rd week of 2023, not the third month. 😉
  8. Scotty Hutto's post in Intellitec EMS discussion & trouble shooting.... Shore Power & Fake 50Ampser? was marked as the answer   
    After spending decades dealing with these type issues, I can tell you it’s unlikely(but not impossible) that the power company has the voltage taps set too high. Why?  Liability. If the transformer taps are set on too high voltage, the power company is liable and will likely end up paying damages to all of the customers on that transformer. Anything over 132 volts at the transformer taps and they won’t even argue - they’ll just cut a check.  In 40 years I don’t ever recall having to lower the taps on a transformer because of high voltage. Not saying it never happens, just saying it didn’t happen to me with a pretty decent sample size  
    So what could it be?  In all my years of investigations, high voltage complaints typically boiled down to two issues: 1) Loose neutral, or 2) something a neighboring home or facility was doing (I.e., very large loads cutting on and off, like Tom’s big resistive load mentioned above)
    Can a loose neutral cause voltage to be high?  Absolutely. Does your EMS detect it? Not always. This happened to me last fall at my in-laws house. Grounds were not bonded, neutral was loose, and my EMS was shutting off the heat pump in the middle of the night?l. Solution… although I knew how to fix it, it wasn’t my house so I called an electrician who brought it up to code.  
    I ALWAYS check voltage - even at places I stay regularly - at the campground with the pedestal tester Richard @Dr4Film built for me.  It also detects open neutrals  
    The best advice in these situations was given by Ivan.  Get a real voltmeter and check it.  If the voltage is above 132 VAC on either or both legs, call the campground.  Short of repairing their system for them (not recommended), the best you can do is use the 30A adapter and limp through. 

    also noted… a loose neutral was the most common cause of electrical fires during my tenure.  Can’t say if that’s true nationwide, but in my little corner of the world it was. 
    Which brings me to my final admonition...  Do your annual maintenance on your electrical system and make sure alll connections are tight!  With NO power to the coach, genny off, and inverter off.  Even then, treat every connection like it’s hot until/unless you’ve checked it with a voltage tester or voltmeter.  
  9. Scotty Hutto's post in Jacks Down alarm fires randomly was marked as the answer   
    Ditto the low hydraulic fluid comments. Try adding some ATF to the small hydraulic tank (located in the compartment behind the AC condenser, drivers side just behind the drive wheels).  Pics below…
    I keep a quart of Dextron ATF with the coach just for this reason. One of the seals on one of my jacks leaks just a little, and when the fluid gets low it behaves exactly as you describe. (I know…. I have purchased a new seal kit, just haven’t paused long enough to rebuild the jack)
    Give me a call if you have questions. 
    Pictures for clarity:

     

     

     

     

     

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