Dr4Film

The "Service Center" is most likely your wet bay where you dump your tanks amongst other functions, outside shower, etc.

Elite RV in Harrisburg Oregon. You won't be disappointed. https://eliternr.com/

I have been advising people for years to always run high amp drawing devices only with shore or generator power, never with Inverter power, whether it is MSW or PSW. The best way to destroy those devices including your Inverter and House Battery Bank is not to heed my warning. It only takes a few seconds to fire up the generator and a few more to have the transfer switch over to generator power. However it can be very costly to constantly use the House Battery Bank and Inverter to power high amp drawing devices. There will be those that disagree so bottom-line, its entirely up to you as it's your coach, your money, your choice.

Tap into the wires on the rear of the outside keypad to use the lock/unlock functions. Hook a switch up to them to activate the lock and unlock functions.

They used Diamond Shield and sold it as 3M. Lots of special chemicals and plastic razors.

My 06 Dynasty came to me with the ABS light on the dash. It is off generally for the first 5-10 miles or so than it pops on. There have been less than a handful of times where it hasn't come on at all during that segment of driving. It hasn't been high on my priority list to investigate but will have to do it some day. Not too worried about it as most of my driving is done where it really not needed.

It should have a part number on it. If it's original it is most likely a Leece-Neville alternator.

I have to modify my last previous post as there was an improvement in the time it took for the drivers side to collapse. So the work that they did on my last appointment improved the situation but has not corrected it. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough time to rebuild the used 6-Pack Air Manifold I had purchased from Visone RV so I left it up to Josam's to get the job done. Between now and next winter I will rebuild the 6-Pack and air test it on the bench PRIOR to using it. I am also rebuilding the HWH Aux Air Compressor this summer. Once done it will be installed inside a bay that I found which is between the Aqua-Hot and the Glendinning Cable Master bucket. I will just have to use planks this summer if needed to maintain level for the coach at our Workamping jobs in New Hampshire. We will be parked in one site. So once level I won't have to keep tweaking it.

Well, I am back home and things have not improved even after the service tech spent another 5 hours on the coach. I got home about 4 pm yesterday and immediately left for work. This morning when I returned home the coach was leaning heavily to the drivers side once again. All I did was to park it, shut the engine off and lock the coach. So it was sitting at ride height condition when I left. He replaced one new air fitting on one of the rear drive axle air bags that was installed on my first trip there. He stated it just failed and was leaking air. He also did some more work on the air manifolds in the rear for the drive and tag axles. Plus he found an air discharge line in the engine compartment on the lower left side of the engine that had a ball valve which drains the rear air tank. That was leaking and replaced. I am calling Barry today to let him know and also to tell him that we will have to tackle the problem once again next winter after we return from our Workamping jobs in New Hampshire.

They are normally called 6-Pack Air Manifold. Both HWH and Valid uses them but they are not interchangeable between brands. Each company should be able to provide them. I purchased a used one from Visone RV to rebuild over next winter. I recently saw a new one for sale on Northwest RV Supply in OR. https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/hwh-6-solenoid-valve-air-leveling-manifold-rap32798ap32798/

In your research on this site, did you happen to run across the wiring diagram which includes the water pump controller? If, not then I would look for it in the files section and download it to review the wiring schematic.

Back to Josam's today. After getting home last Thursday after all of the above work was completed, I ran the slides out then tweaked the coach for level ever so slightly in the front and turned everything off. Went upstairs and got ready for work. Within one hour or so the drivers side had lost all of its air and was completely flat on the air bags. Not a Happy Camper at all. Called Josam's on Friday but Barry was off until Monday. Called Barry on Monday and made the appointment for today to see what the hell happened. I will post what they find and the outcome of my third visit to Josam's. Barry did mentioned that he believes that my coach has two Ping Tanks in the front and they may be the problem or the hoses going to the Ping Tanks. I didn't even know that it had ping tanks and frankly I don't remember any one here having posted about problems with their Ping Tanks or air lines involving them. More to come on this problem.

I second the recommendation for Classic Coach Works in Ormond Beach Fl.

@Bar SR Ranch I totally agree!!!! Frank has helped with his intimate knowledge of our Monaco's for so many of us members. There are also a few other members that hold a tight second.

The two main types of connectors found on our Monaco circuit boards and other places are either Molex or Mate N Lok.

I am removing the HOT Big Boy and installing the Blue Seas ML-ACR in its place. No longer have to deal with having something that hot in my Rear Run Bay (aka RRB) or not working requiring to R&R it every so often.

I installed a 6-Way Trailer Tow on the rear of my Previous Windsor in addition to the 7-Way that was already there. My Saturn Vue has separate Turn and Brake Lights and I wanted to keep them separate. I simply tapped into the Factory 6-Way to accomplish that task. I also added a 12 VDC Charge wire to the 6-Way on the back of the coach. The existing 7-Way had a convertor to combine the Turn and Stop lights. The only thing I added to the existing 7-Way was a Blue Electric Brake wire as I wanted to tow a 30 foot trailer or just my car.

Dang varmints! Hope that it ends up to be something simple.

Is it possible to shrink-wrap the connector?

FYI.... I am here at Josam's today having the balance of the required work done on the remaining air bags that needed to be installed, Leaking HWH 6-Pack Valves replaced with new o-rings, new front Ride Height Valve and the HWH Air Compressor Platform removed so I can rebuild it this summer and install it in a more accessible location. They will combine the air lines that would go to the compressor platform together so the leveling system will only work with the tank air. I should be good to go for many years to come with a fully operational HWH Air Leveling System that will actually hold air.

Have you read through the NotSoCold Service Manual Ice Maker Section to review the Troubleshooting steps?

I simply give the middle of the arm a punch with my hand then grab the door handle to close.

The scissor arm on our 06 Dynasty is just loose enough to allow me to lock the door open by sliding that little tit under the top arm so the arm is perfectly straight. The door will stay open unless it is very blustery outside and the wind catches the front of the door. I am happy with the way my scissor arm operates. I must be one of the lucky ones.

Give the starter a good rap with a hammer to see if it will turn over. Also check the connections at the starter to make sure they are clean and tight.

Shouldn't have to remove any upper panel if it is installed like all of the other older Sharp microwaves. Remove the two grease screens. You should now have access to the head of a very long bolt that secures the microwave to the rear mounting plate. You may also have two hidden screws that need to be removed, one on each side of the microwave . You need to look up into the same opening where the screens were removed. Look closely on each side to see if there are any sheet metal screws holding the sides of the microwave to the adjacent cabinets. Have another person ready when everything has been removed as that microwave is very heavy. Slowly lower the front to a padded cover on your counter. The lift the back edge off of the back plate, plus unplug the unit before lowering to the counter.