Dr4Film

Mine drops to 4th if my speed allows it to and then searches for 2nd once the speed allows the Allison to go into 2nd gear. That's what is displayed on my SilverLeaf VMSpc screen. I prefer that versus having to do it manually.

Ben, Glad to hear that the Irontite worked in your Aqua-Hot. I swear by that stuff as it plugged a hole in the bottom of my 02 Windsor radiator enough for me to drive about 5000 additional miles without losing another drop. I also used it to stop the new radiator from seeping at the top after it had been installed for 3 years. I've been doing some RnR on my 06 Dynasty Aqua-Hot this winter. My first observation was that the surge tank was not moving. I drained the boiler fluid in the surge tank, then checked the actual level at the tank, it was low. I topped off the boiler tank and installed the cap. Started the Aqua-Hot up and the fluid soon started dripping out of the cap. Purchased a new cap and tried it again. Once the fluid started to heat up, I then noticed a tiny stream coming from the back of the filler neck. Quickly turned off the Aqua-Hot and thought about what to do next. I have now purchased a small package of JB Water Weld. When I have time, I will clean up the entire back area of the filler neck, then apply a generous amount of this Water Weld to the filler neck. Let it set for a day, then try the Aqua-Hot one more time. If I still have a leak at the filler neck, my next step will be the Irontite. Obviously, the previous owner never did anything to repair the obvious hole nor did my useless "certified" inspector know enough about Aqua-Hots to recognize that there was a problem. We used the Aqua-Hot all last summer but with the level being somewhat low in the boiler tank due to the hole in the filler neck it never got low enough for the Low-Level alarm to trip. It was only down about 2 quarts. Plus, I did observe that the Surge tank was not changing in level during that time, but I attributed it to possibly a cracked hose, not an actual hole.

Brett, so sorry to hear about the total loss of your coach. I truly hope that you are compensated well and are able to find an equivalent coach of your liking. When I started to look for an upgrade from the 02 Windsor, I specifically stayed away from any coach that had the chassis multiplex systems. I chose a 06 Dynasty that has a house multiplex system which still needs to be backed up with the help from either Paul W or Frank M. Over the years, I had read and heard about way too many coaches that had problems with the chassis multiplex system and knew right then that I didn't want to deal with the same headaches. There are way too many other things that can and do go wrong with our coaches to have to deal with major electrical issues. Good luck in your search. Safe travels!

ITC 81230-NS RV/Auto Round Halogen Light $9.99

If you don't have one already, then I would highly suggest that you install a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C prior to your transfer switch with a display that will tell you specifically the quality of your incoming power. The Intellitec EMS is only useful when you have the generator running or are on good shore power less than 50 amps. The control board is doing the work, the display is only there to inform you of what the control board is doing.

Thought so! I purchased one this past year on Amazon for $10. I had dropped the lens when removing it from the ceiling and it took a chip out it.

Is the lens glass or plastic as you stated in your original post?

Sorry for my ignorance, but how does a failed EMS display cause no power to your coach? You did state in your first post that your batteries had died due to having the Inverter powering something that was running in the coach. Something is not making any sense.

Remove the glass lens by rotating it counterclockwise to expose the bulb and recessed fixture. Posting a photo of your specific light fixture would be helpful.

I always leave the black valve open after the contents have been evacuated with the black back flush running. Then open the grey water last. There is lots of soapy water at the end to lubricate both the black and gray valves. I then close the black valve followed by the grey valve. That procedure has worked for 20 years without having any sticky valve problems.

Valves are not glued to the main dump pipes. You remove the four screws and nuts from each valve, and with a little pressure to the side you remove the valve and rubber gaskets from in-between the two square flanges that remain.

Try one of the many RV Salvage Yards that are listed in the Monacoers Parts List. VisoneRv is one of more popular ones. RV Salvage Parts VisoneRV Used RV Parts | usedrvparts.visonerv.com

Unfortunately that will be a huge challenge as most surplus stock has disappeared. Your only recourse may be custom made bezels with the specific labels you are searching for.

Todd, Northwest RV Supply has some in white but not very many as they are not as common as the black ones.

I agree with Jim. I had a new radiator made and installed at CG&J in Gadsden AL for my Windsor back in 2015. The very first thing I noticed was my transmission temps were 10F higher than with the old radiator. Plus, the new radiator started to "seep" at the top about 3 years later. One bottle of Irontite solved that issue. I, also, no longer recommend CG&J for any radiator work.

Vanwill is the most knowledgeable on this issue. He is our resident expert on many systems within our coaches.

In my previous Windsor, I had one fluorescent light fixture over the sink that I had to replace as it affected both the EMS display and my tank level system. Took me quite a while to narrow it down but after replacing it with a new one, no more issues.

Ernie Ekberg and his son are the resident flooring experts on this site.

Big difference in the operation and consumption of an Aqua-Hot that has a small boiler tank which only holds 5 gallons versus those that have 15-16 gallons. I believe the 400 series units all have the smaller tanks. Plus, if people would read their manuals, it states right up front in the operational manuals that it's best to have the Diesel switch on ALL the time as that is the PRIMARY heat source of the Aqua-Hot and the Electric Assist switch can be left on also as that is the secondary heat source. However, if you have one of the 600 series units that have two electric elements than depending on your location and demand you may not need the diesel at all.

Check with Jim J, a member here who had installed a separate transmission cooler on his 02 Windsor.

Have you tried reset the entire Aladdin System with the reset switch?

I would try the company called Trimark to see if your handle matches what they sell.

Drill a small hole directly under the location where the plunger is positioned. Then push a stiff object up through the hole to open the bay door.

You need to sort out the reason for the EMS showing that you are on 30-amp shore power if you are on 50-amp shore power first. I would not trust what the meter says or amps you are drawing until that is determined. Also, as others have stated, when on 50-amp shore power the amp display is blank.

Well, the Inverter was running because you had NO shore power. The first thing I would look at is the 50-15/20 amp adapter that you purchased. Those aren't always well made products. That is the only NEW device that you have entered into the problem assuming that everything worked properly on normal shore power previously.