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    Holiday Ramber
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    Claremore, OK

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    ‘05 HR Ambassador
    40 PLQ
    Owned since 2012

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saflyer's Achievements



  1. I checked out 6 and 12 ton stands online. They extend to 24”. I think they should be placed under the raised rails either in front of the rear axle or behind the front wheels or both. Am I right? If so first that’s a real stretch subjecting me to being under the coach while I’m doing it, negating their safety benefit. Second, it looks like the raised rails sit more than 24” above the ground when the coach is at ride height so the jacks wouldn’t be much help. I haven’t actually measured it because of the above safety concern. Thoughts?
  2. One of the most aggravating design features of the coach. In the daytime I can lean close and might be able to read it. Even then the angle causes 1s and 7s to be indistinguishable. At night, forget it.
  3. I forgot there is digital voltage readout but not an amperage one in my ScanGuage D. Tried the test again. It did about 5 cycles of 12.1v for 4 or 5 seconds then 13.7-13.9v for about 15 seconds. Eventually it settled to reading 13.9-14.0 v with an occasional 14.1v. Does that still indicate a problem? What is a SilverLeaf? Thanks, Ed
  4. Cummins ISC 330 with 160a alternator. I had a suspicion from my last start that the chassis batteries weren’t charged fully. I’m not good about watching my gauges so didn’t have an idea of a problem before noticing this. I don’t have an ammeter but do have a chassis voltage gauge. Decided to run the engine for a test. First I checked the chassis batteries with a voltmeter and they were just barely over 13v. When I turned the key on the panel voltage showed a little more than 12v. I started the engine. Seemed to crank good but it took about 5 seconds for the voltage to move off 12v and indicate charging at about 13.3-13.5 volts. (Difficult to tell since the gauge is in single digit increments. One of my old engineering professors would say you can’t resolve it closer than one volt.) It showed 13+ For about 15 seconds the went back to about 12v for 5 seconds then 13+ again for about 15 seconds. I hit my stop watch to see if it maintained this regularity and it did for about 6-8 cycles thenit went steady at 13+v for a couple of minutes before I turned the engine off. The next day I had to move the coach to a new site. The voltage went through the same process, about six 20 second cycles then stabilizing at 13.3-13.5v for the ten minutes it took to move. We are near Denver for now but had planned to go to the mountains for some boondocking to test my new solar installation but with this issue I decided it would be prudent to have the charging system checked out. Of course it was a Friday afternoon so finding a shop was difficult. Luckily I was able to schedule an appointment for Monday morning at a local diesel shop. Does anyone have any insight about this issue? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador
  5. I have same covers and there are no holes in either side. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador One question. I noticed today that the rear A/C has four registers. Two on one side blow OK, one on other side blows a little and the other doesn’t seem to have any air movement at all. I wonder what are the possibilities of fixing this problem and where to look? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador
  6. I purchased replacement top covers from eTrailer.com for my A/C units and they came with foam insulation strips cut to fit and instructions for placement. The instructions showed to attach the foam to the unit itself and not the cover. Off topic but were the IIs quieter than the Is? Dometic also sells the four gold screws to attach the cover to the base for about $22.
  7. Recently I watched a video by a factory expert who said the units are good if they lower the temperature 16-22° between the inlet and outlets. This confirms what I have heard in the past. Ed ‘05 Ambassador Which picture is which?
  8. The heat pump worked before the roof resealing. I don’t see how the dip switch could have been changed during that work but I will check it out when I get home. Ed ’05 HR Ambassador
  9. I have the same but different problem. After the A/C’s were removed and reinstalled to reseal the roof the #2 unit (bedroom) would not show heat pump. Skipped from air conditioner to heater when rotating through modes. I reset the thermostat with no improvement. I can’t imagine the dip switches being changed but stranger things….. Any ideas? Interestingly, when I did a generator exercise I put the front unit on heat and the bedroom one on A/C but the rear one produced heat from the heat pump. Evidently the front unit dominates or calls the shots so you can’t select cooling on one and heat on the other. Does anyone have any insight into this? Thanks for the video of where the dip switches are. I’ll check them out when I get home. Ed. ‘05 HR Ambassador
  10. Thanks. Those may be just right.
  11. Has anyone found a source for safety stands for motorhomes? I’d like something to put under the rails or jack stands to protect me when working under the coach in case of a sudden air bag rupture or leveler malfunction. Or is there a better option? Ed ’05 HR Ambassador
  12. Mine is the same as Steve’s but color. You can’t see the buttons because of the screen shade. Ed
  13. Does this mean all Samsung refrigerators? A friend is buying an RF18 and is concerned about using his MSW inverter. Can I tell him not to worry? Ed
  14. Pop rivets. Hadn’t thought of that. Drill just through the aluminum then shove the rivet in. It couldn’t cut into ant wires. What do others think of this? Ed
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