Eric M

with research and the Wally from Dish is a much easier option for a single tv system in an RV. i stand corrected.

Thank you for your opinion. What i am not understanding out of all this is the "foggy glass" unless it is a dual layer glass with gel/plastic inbetween for thermal control and that gel/plastic became discolored. Then, the post spins around and talking about leveling jacks. I'll keep my opinions to myself. And, if this happens to me, i will then reach out.

if its glass, couldn't you just clean, and wipe it down? unless damage has happened im a cheapskate, so thats why i ask

seems to work better, just need to figure out how to get the bubble out of the adapter.

ok, i ordered one. i first ordered a Equuis gauge..... and that was a complete fail

i have an oriface tube. and it hasnt clogged.

Hey folks, looking for a 1/2" -14 NPT coolant temperature sender and gauge kit. the one on my RV busted, i bought a new sender, but it still throws this light of "High Water Temp" even with changing the wire to the dash. So, im looking to replace everything. unplug this one, let it sit at "C" and attach a separate gauge for this. anyone else do this? know of the part to buy?

my system pipes are.... HUUUUGE. so im not worried about it. the "STOP LEAK" also contains a dye. that if it cannot be sealed, it will expose it, so you can seal it manually. it seals the gaskets and stuff, the small,little seals. my ASE certified for automotive, trucks, RV's, 18 wheeler trucks. said that this "stop leak" seals at the exposure point only. i got a guy helping me, that makes $175,000 a year fixing Ford's and other vehicles. He knows what he is doing.

I vaccumed down what i had, left it under vaccum for about 8 hours. turned it on again, got whatever was left in there, out. Refilled with the PAG oil, with the ICE additive to make it colder. then, added a "stop leak" additive to hopefully seal up, whatever was leaking in the system that brought my refrigerant pressure to.... about 8 LBS. under vaccum, it didnt leak. so it may have been the elevation change from it being charged at sea level, to being taken up to 5,000 FT (colorado) and i hasnt been ran the whole trip. (drove here in December, no need for AC then) so.... CASE CLOSED! 😘

i found it, it was on a fitting that was on the back (connecting to the transmission) but not connected to the block, its connected the heater hoses that go to the front of the cab. changed it, alternator bracket was broken, so the chassis was getting uneven negatives. and even with the new sensor, it still says "HIGH TEMPERATURE" soooooo...... im stuck.

i need to find a R-12 meter.

Hello, i have a problem. My Chassis AC on my 1996 Monaco Windsor's compressor is not activating. i have a few ideas on getting a voltage meter, to hook it up to the clutch enabler to see if power is coming to that, while the engine is on. i will check that are their any other ideas i could try?

Hello, so i started up my RV, and everything seemed to work the same as normal. then, as temperature was rising, i noticed my engine/radiator temperture meter (C to H) was flickering back and forth, from cold to the approximate temperature it is now. im driving down the road, to see if it would "resolve itself" and behold.... it flickers around a few times and then goes below the C, and now has a BUZZING "high temperture" light that has come on. suggesting that im overheating it. But im not, i brought it back home, parked it. let it sit overnight, and once again, it still says the engine is overheating. when its ice cold. Where is the correct sensor on my 1996 Monaco Windsor RV? it has the C8.3-275 engine. i went to the Cummins Quick site, and it doesnt give me any information about it. im lost. please help

DirecTV is always the best. Hands down.

Well, I learned.... there was nothing wrong with my battery. I bought another 1440 CCA. Battery. It did the same thing. i got desperate, I called a diesel mechanic. He came out. turns out, my grounding strap cable was corroded. And he cleaned it off, and it ran fine. after $480 of fees to clean a cable. But.... it’s done, and it runs 😊

Hey there, looking for a battery charger for my RV. This is the starting battery. (I thought the plug in thing would charge both..... maybe it doesn’t) All the “automatic” ones say it’s charged, because it’s going to 13V, but it’s a car charger, it probably taps out at 600CCA. When my battery is 1440CCA. So once my heating glow plugs warm up, starter click on, and it doesn’t move. It doesn’t have enough juice. I'm going to sound like a old timer here... looking for a MANUAL 10/20/50/200 AMP charger that I can set for a period of time, regardless if it “says” anything. They say, 20AMPS for 2 1/2 hours. I look at Walmart,Amazon, auto parts stores. They don’t have the old fashioned charger on wheels anymore (Amazon does have one. A blue one. They want $250 for it) anyone know of a store I can get this from, that isn’t the price of a car payment?

Thanks for all the great work! Just a question, can we transport all of the messages from the yahoo group, into this one? maybe you’ve already thought of that, and the answer may be yes/no. But.....If we could, that would be AWESOME! 😊😊😊😊