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Ivan K

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Ivan K last won the day on August 27

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    Lavon, TX

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  1. Ivan K


    Like Richard, we have front male air nipple in for the tow truck, rear female connection for toad brakes and an other female connector in propane tank area. That one is for tire inflation but you have to consider the pressure fluctuates roughly between 90 to 125 PSI. As the tank and tire pressure equalizes, the air flow slows down or even reverses depending how much pressure you need in your tire. When that happens, I would have to let enough air out of the tank for the compressor to kick in again. Considering that I run 115Psi in the steers, it takes patience. This is why I also carry a compr
  2. Is it an electric generator? If it was air operated, I could do some comparison test. In my experience, vacuum pumps are good at generating vacuum but not so good at holding it when turned off without some sort of a valve which may be a part of the generator or the storage tank depending where the vacuum switch that turns the generator on/off is located.
  3. It can be done. My wife made ours when we were on the road in AZ, to avoid all the questions about what happened to our windshield. Once we got home, she made the side window cover as well. It looks professional because she is a professional. We had existing snaps already installed so it had to be custom made to fit anyways.
  4. Feel if your salesman switch is hot, if you still have it. This was the main reason I bypassed ours (we have 2 of them) even tho it was still working fine. It may account for part of the drain.
  5. Roy, our buzzer is just loosely laying in between bundles of wires behind the dash gauge panel. It looks like the one in the pic and has multiple sources connected. It had worked intermittently because the connections were loose and I only fixed it to pass a DMV airbrake test. Annoying but I suppose important too.
  6. I use self leveling around the roof openings, otherwise you would have to smear it around. Non leveling is good for vertical surface where you don't want it to run.
  7. With the LED flasher lights you have 2 choices, either install parallel resistors to simulate current of the incandescent bulb or replace the flasher relay for an electronic one, not based on current and provided you find one that would fit the existing socket configuration. Resistors would be my last choice as they get hot and that could pose a problem with plastic light housings. If your red marker light alternates with the corner light, the new flasher still may not make it work but the resistors would. Something to try to know for sure. I just left the rear flashers the way they were origi
  8. We had a 100 amp breaker melting up in our house main box feeding the shop few years after construction completion and inspection. It did not trip and I don't think it was overloaded because I have a lesser breaker in the shop panel and never tripped either. To me, the smell felt like a dead animal and for a while I suspected that something died inside the wall until I finally found it. It was a dual breaker but the only one that failed from many, you seem to have more of them failed the same way at the same time and that's weird. Maybe heat transfer through the mounting rail?
  9. Do you know the make and type of your leveling system? HWH system would have a six pack of solenoid valves mounted on the frame between wheels of each axle. 3 pairs of solenoids, one for travel height, raise and lower, all mounted on a quite large rectangular manifold, hard to miss. There are exhaust ports on the manifold that might get plugged. Just take all the many times mentioned precautions supporting the chassis so it would not accidentally drop at you if you get under it and certainly don't just pull lines out if there if any air pressure in the system and don't have someone operate the
  10. I, for one, like to have a separate thermostat for the rear sections that I can see and reach right from the pillow. Still all original equipment and working just fine but I do enjoy following the subject just in case things change. Now, if it was possible (maybe it is?) to control all the HVAC pieces from both thermostat locations, that would be one thing I would like too.
  11. I think it depends on the surface and tag weight load. It definitely gave me at least a foot or two in a tight dump loop where I had to visit repeatedly and first time, with the tag down, it forced me into sand. Not a good feeling and lifting the tag, even if only unloading some weight off it, made it safer. I agree that putting the extra 10k lbs on the drive axle is not great but this is why it's only used at a croll speed.
  12. Do you have a circuit diagram that would show the routing? I could look at ours but it is a different coach and vintage. Some of the switches only complete a ground circuit so you may not find 12v on them, not sure about yours.
  13. I got both the fan and controller from amazon. First cheap controller failed pretty soon so now I have one that's rated up to 30v.
  14. I have raised the controller from it's mounting surface a couple of inches and installed a 12v flat fan controlled by a little temp controller with sensor between the cooling fins. Both are fed from the load terminals of the controller.
  15. Do you mean actual "dump" or "lift"? We only have a specific switch for lift while dump is a function of leveling system, at least with our coach. Lift fuse is in our FRB but the ultimate test is looking for power at the MAC valve at the back.
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