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Ivan K

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Ivan K last won the day on April 25

Ivan K had the most liked content!

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Required Information

  • FirstName
    Ivan
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Signature
  • Year
    2000
  • City & State
    Lavon, TX

Optional Information

  • Phone (Optional)
    2144774651

Recent Profile Visitors

805 profile views
  1. I would really look into what is leaking, last thing I need to see is a runaway diesel engine running on its own oil and eating itself up with no quick way to stop it.
  2. I had my portion of weird HWH air leveling behaviour and every time it was due to the touch pad cable connection on either of it's ends until I stopped it from shaking out. One time it was switching to leveling while driving and that wasn't a good feeling but I doubt it was actually doing it. That stopped after replacing all the push buttons on the 'touch' pad' board.
  3. Exactly my observation. Low suction pressure with good high pressure. Don't want it crazy high to achieve good low pressure with those 40' lines. I used about 4lbs of R134 while watching the gauges. But I evacuated and replaced the accumulator and expansion valve first. The problem with a leak is that you don't know how much oil might have been lost over time, so starting all over is safest. If you don't have an oily leak and still have decent static pressure per temp chart, leaky valves can be replaced with the valve tool without losing freon.
  4. You can buy it in a squeeze bottle, that's what I do now. I had that happen number of times with different products so I feel your frustration.
  5. If you have a variable geometry turbo you would not have a waste gate.
  6. You are right about the low pressure switch, it should be there and the clutch lead should go through it. Ours is right at the drier up front. You can test it since your systems is or will be evacuated. Once you locate the switch, you might also remove it without losing any pressure and test it that way, should be open with no pressure to it. You might also have a high pressure switch, I don't. I used PAG 100 oil, I think, but it's been a while since then and I don't see the viscosity being that critical. There should be a mention in your manual? In a pressurized system you would need
  7. I had to replace ignition coil a couple of days ago for the same issue, while still on our current trip. But, there is a number of tests you should perform per service manual before spending the money, not a cheap part... one of the deciding ones is checking for power between C8 and C5 at the expected cycle time.
  8. Bearing preload should be described in your axle manufacturer's service manual. It is a 3 step process in my case, to leave just enough of a slack for temperature expansion. The slack is then measured to confirm correct value in single thousands. Or you can do as some truckers on YouTube do, slap it on and go... As far as lug nuts, the one time I had the tires mounted at a tire shop, the nut washers were oiled and nuts torqued with a manual torque wrench to 500 lbs. That is exactly what my Monaco manual says as well. And that's what I do myself since that first time. Alcoa wheels as well.
  9. Brakes are part of the axle assembly from manufacturer. Installed as a complete piece. Hubs, bearings, seals, adjusters, rotors or drums, pads or shoes can all be identified by manufacturer of the axle if you give them numbers off of the axle. Thats all I am saying because I have done just that to get part numbers for my brakes.
  10. The axles came as an assembled piece. There should be a metal placard, usually on the passenger rear side of the axle under all the grime with Serial and Customer number on it. You would be able to get individual part numbers from the manufacturer. Thats how I found ours, hopefully your numbers are still there. Possibly on your build sheet as well? I had the serial number but Rockwell needed customer number to get the details. Once I had it, it was matter of minutes for them.
  11. Ivan K

    Tire Valve Stems

    The multiplier works just fine, super easy one hand operation but it is a heavy piece. Torque wrench of either sort is still needed to mount them right. I use an electronic adapter. There is no way to guesstimate 500lbs.
  12. Check and compare your dimensions, I got everything I needed from ebay. It was a perfect match for our belt line. Aluminum strip, vinyl cover and end pieces.
  13. Sorry about the late reply, gentlemen. We were at Valley Of Fire for last few days with no internet and just moved out to a BLM. To Rik's point, after I replaced the pump, it started to prime and I could start the engine for few seconds before shutdown. Once I removed the fuel actuator, the engine would run just fine but no AC was produced. That made it obvious to me that the trouble is either the controller or the windings. I have tested and tested and all looked good but without a precise ohm meter it is impossible to tell a short from just less than an ohm. Ray, I had the whole
  14. I second that, being on our second or maybe third month from TX to AZ and now in NV, it is near impossible to get into state parks for more than a lucky one day stay. Not that we care since we like to stay away from packed parks but here and there we need refill so I check them out. State and national parks in NV are first come so they are more doable early in the day and always full later on.
  15. Just my luck, was gonna use it for the first time ever. Thanks for saving me from wasting more time on it.
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