Ivan K

Still worth a try since you see at least some minimum resistance to ground, IMO

Here is a pic of the contactor but you may want to confirm as Tom said. May have used different ones over the years. Also it may go away if you unplug and plug again. I also read somewhere that a capacitor replacement on the board fixed excessive hum but it is a hearsay.

If you want to stay with plain tempered flat sheet of your size, you could order from online places like royaltymirror.com for half of your $600 quote with free shipping. 3/8" sheet of your size comes to $306 and you can customize it for mounting/tint etc.for some extra.

Don't know about Dynasty but mine is in FRB and many have it on outside of the firewall. And yes, a yellow line from PPV on the front tank on mine too.

I have replaced one of my valves recently. You will need to have empty air tanks and airbags. I use blocks between the h-frame and main rails but ramps or appropriate jack stands would do the same. Basically you need to be able to get safely under the coach with no air in the system. With air leveling, there could be a nuance in doing it but no air is still the safest option. Try to mirror the arm angle of the old valve so that you need less or no final hight adjustment after the replacement because that would have to be done when aired up again.

Good to know, thank you Bob, wasn't like that last spring/summer.

My philosophy too. Never had a fuel problem (knock on wood) and with a safe 1000 miles range there will be one on the way, maybe except when roaming southern Utah for weeks, where Mudflap comes handy at Mavericks, not much choice there. The TSD app also links to directions to review the pump situation.

I couldn't get the oil feed hose out of the turbo and had to pull it out with the hose, easier that way if you run into it too. That thing is heavy and deep in the hole.

You have to call ahead? I just touch the button to get it, is that what you meant?

I have the same manifold and none of the penetrant (atf+) made it into the threads but there was no sign of rust in them either. The only rust was inside the spacers. Once the bolt head broke loose from the spacer, it just came out easily.

Hmm, very different from mine, sorry, don't know this one.

Yes, it is a knockoff of a Hadley but at least the part number H00450 will give plenty of hits at various cost for OEM, if that's the right one.

Pat, do you really have 3 fittings on that valve or just 2 and an exhaust port like this one? If the same, the C indicates compression fittings however the pic does not show it so maybe not in this case... If yours is different, then I don't know.

My opinion, if the pump in fact works, it doesn't matter how many functions it feeds since it only runs one at a time.

Depends if you get the 5% on any purchase. For my CC it is classified as merchandise purchase, not fuel purchase since it is charged by Mudflap, not by the fuel station. TSD takes the money from your bank account so no 'cashbacking'....hate that commercial...

Why not get both, sometimes there is only one choice on the road

Joe, if you are looking to inspect your rollers and it isn't a drop down slide, also assuming the kitchen and sofa is on that slide like ours.... two rollers are accessible under false kitchen cabinet floor and two more are mounted under the sofa but from under the floor, accessible from the wheel well and LPG tank compartment. If your floor plan is different, it changes things.

On ours, the 12V for units and thermostats comes through a 2A fuse in bedroom fuse box. May or may not be similar with yours.

If you don't have a 'fitting shop' near you, you can get DOT rated compression fittings on Amazon or elsewhere since it appears to be a brake line. Easier to find if you are eliminating the small line and looking for a straight coupler.

The rod and valve in your pic is part of ride hight system and if that valve was leaking, it would be dropping both front corners.

If you have air leveling, it certainly could be a leak at the sixpack. The fist step for me would be to figure whether it is caused by a drop in the front or rear corner.

Get a Microair thermostat and control it all from your phone or tablet. That's what I do for all the AC units from anywhere. Switch to heat, cool, fan, set temp, whatever. It uses Bluetooth or wifi depending on distance.

Short version - Your inverter/charger is to primarily charge house batteries but on your Signature, there will be an arrangement to charge chassis as well.. It could be a maintainer or a solenoid relay which does that when house is at a certain charging voltage. Therefore the temp sensor goes on house batteries. As far as the disconnects, you might want to test it to be sure but my inverter does not get disconnected by house disconnect. Chassis disconnect has no effect on inverter.

According to my documentation, my wheels can turn 40 degrees. King pin is the center of rotation and is about flush with inner wheel sidewall. The outside center will move slightly back and in, giving you an advantage. Should be able to guesstimate from this info and tire size.

I can't tell if grizzlys Signature would follow the same logic but the front unit was the only one controlled by the front thermostat so there was nothing else in play on ours. Center and rear units were on a bedroom thermostat with no connection to the front. It is easy to swap the thermostats front to rear to help isolate the issue. Besides the point but now I have all 3 units on the same microair with remote controll ability.