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Ivan K

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Everything posted by Ivan K

  1. Ours had sheet metal screws from the top and both sides. Not easily accessible without taking out false walls and bunch of stuff. I slid a metal cutting blade into the space to feel them and cut off.
  2. I had a top shock eye open up on those old bilsteins and beating into the floor when we got the coach. The new ones were made much stronger. Worth checking as Ben suggested.
  3. Not sure about the rear but up front I have a hose continuing from the air duct into overhead cabinets to cool entertainment electronics. That would be my access if I had to do it, then under a-pillar cover to dash. Hopefully you'll find the old cable intact to avoid that.
  4. Besides the point but I often find it amazing how many simple switched circuits are made complicated and expensive, being custom and in no time obsolete, just to get few fancy looking diodes and on/off mosfets in place of easily replaceable relays, integrated into a so called "controller". Makes sense using datalinks instead of huge wire bundles and some cool looking indicators can be helpful but often at a major cost to repair for a regular person. Certainly cheaper and easier to assemble new and profitable to service as they WILL fail, which I believe was and is the point these days everywhere. All these new coaches with touchscreen integrated systems will eventually make the few who will still know how to fix or work around busy, or the owners stranded.
  5. Our Trace inverter preheats/prime the generator for 15s, then 2s pause, then cranks.
  6. Yeah that is a pretty extreme angle for the line exiting PTC fitting. Might be able to tie the line to an other or a frame part that doesn't move to fix the angle and stop leaking.
  7. Yeah, Jim, I taped ours to a battery side inside the opening between our 4 batteries so it doesn't get influenced by outside air but whatever works.
  8. Temp sensor for inverter, the other likely for a solar controller if you have one. Typically the eye goes on negative battery post but I'd prefer not to have any polarity on it in case the insulation breaks. I'd just tape it to the battery.
  9. I would have expected a bit more from the balancemasters powder coating. I haven't taken my front balancemasters off this year yet but last year they were just dirty, since 2019. Will see how they compare to galvanized centramatics on the rear when I take them off one day. I see that your drive and tag balancers are the same, my tag centramatics look just like the fronts with the dish shape.
  10. I would agree if there is enough miles to make a difference. In real life, I don't know if truckers would care, they blow more tires than we do. I did like Ben says eventhough with my 5/7 years F/R replacement schedule it will take a couple times before the fronts are younger than rears now. At least I keep the best old tire for spare.
  11. I just had the same symptom Doug reported recently. Went to check on the accumulator tank pressure and water ran out of the schrader valve. I like what the tank does for us so I went shopping for a replacement. Got a shock finding out that the OEM Jabsco tank sells for well over $200, even over $300. What? It appears to be same as the one in our house that I could get for $28 (@Zoro) just not in blue. Works the same. Monaco certainly did not go cheap on this one...
  12. If you have soot, you likely have exhaust leak, manifold or turbo flanges. Worst case a crack in either. No way should it cost 11k.
  13. Yes, of course you are right, 1/4 on all my airbags, I had a Joey moment.... yours could be larger though
  14. One more note, if you are replacing the front valve, it likely will have a PTC T-fitting on one port, mine leaked once manhandled. The fitting would replace the compression part on that port to split left-right towards the sixpack manifold. Something to be prepared for if it happens. My lines are 1/8, yours may be larger.
  15. The valves usually come with the brackets, I just find it easier to reuse the old ones. If you mean the rod between the axle and arm, it depends how good or bad the rubber ends are. Mine are still good but they are inexpensive if needed. I just have a spare set, in case.
  16. You don't really care for the mounts and even the arm, it is easiest to just leave them in place and only replace the valve body. 2 bolts and air lines, easy that way.
  17. Or just park it with empty bags? I would put a wet finger on the exhaust hole on the sixpack first and feel for a leak.
  18. Do you have a scangauge or similar to watch for the high oil pressure reading that ECM is reporting? It could be on cold start or maybe it is a bad sensor but I would want to know for sure that I don't have some sort of blockage because comparing the Monaco dash gauge to ECM reading may not be meaningful when the senders are in different locations on the motor, as they are on ours.
  19. Interesting how the Michelin cracking seems to be a hit and miss. My 7 year old Michelins after ~50k miles were still great shape also, when I sold them to a trucker. They spent about 50% time outside. Now on Toyos just because of the cost and they don't and did not smell 😀, made in Japan.
  20. Duey, yes that is the plunger I had to replace, the plastic face insert was leaking. As far as I know, there is no known part number to obtain it individually but Harry has posted a link for possible alternative part not long ago. I have not used it but seems promising: https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1975-kip-valves-pa-2x1138-ac-plunger-assembly-for-2x1138-24-60-solenoid-valve.aspx
  21. Keith, yes the center on that splined cone is open to slide on the shaft. What Jim said above is what I would do with the step assembly. Sometimes, probably most of times, the whole circumference of the big gear is not actually used and can be repositioned to use the good section. Until next time.. I don't know if the one I have is any good since the step got crushed by a truck. I don't know part number for the switch because I just took mine apart, cleaned and slightly bent the contacts inside. Works for years, like new. It is a two circuit momentary on-off-momentary on, might have a number on it? I never had to replaced my switches, unless they melted it can be fixed. That way I don't have to wait and guess the size fitment.
  22. Couple more wiper parts that should (?) be a match for 2002 Sig.
  23. The motor number is in the picture. The mechanism would have to be reused or ordered from Lipert if broken but if you just need the motor, this is it.
  24. Does you step motor and arm look like this? If so, there's your part number. I saved it from the old step when replacing the whole thing on our 2000 model.
  25. It's been a while since I looked at the old RV30 controller's amperage since it is now only charging chassis batteries but I remember seeing 7A back when it was still hooked up to both banks with factory panel and my understanding was that the current was split between the banks as needed, based on dip switch settings.
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