Dave Pumphrey

I like this off the shelf solution that works great, & didn't mind paying for it.... https://www.amazon.com/Fridge-Fixer-HRQ16-Series/dp/B08GXQKWZX?ref_=ast_sto_dp

2nd session of what? Ramblin pushers?

2nd session?

I saw the link to the controller, how about a link to the light strips? I have been thinking of a 2nd low level of light for the bathroom, this looks perfect! Thank You!

Is the romex connected directly to the outlet? My concern would be the flexing when opened/ closed...

A friend just got residential in Maryland. He is in a rural area, only able to get Hughes. I have seem several on construction trailers around here. Saw 2 at Lums pond in Delaware recently. My trigger finger is getting real itchy...!

I bet the cat doesn't like any of them!

That is exactly it! https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6651618?impressionRank=1 It didn't say if it comes with the grommet, mine tore getting it out. I have one coming from Amazon today, looks the same but different electrical connector. Will update...

anyone have a link to a replacement pump? I see many on amazon, but they don't say what size hole the grommet fits. Mine is 3/4"

I'm on the "no need for side cameras" team. Also when changing the headlights, be aware of blinding oncoming drivers...

Me too! (Have I mentioned that side radiator was on my short list when shopping for a coach!)

Program lasted till 1972, last mission was 17, Dec 1972... https://nssdc.gsfc.nasa.gov/planetary/lunar/apollo.html

Looks like you need to update your signature line with coach info! (I assume you found it!)

I'm talking about the lower marker lights at the rear, not daytime running lights...

Mine was missing the cover when I got it, so I'm in the same boat. I thought I may have seen the layout in the manual, but don't remember for sure...

As others have mentioned, possibly bad ground. With the lights off, the turn signals can ground thru the run light filament. When I changed to LED's on my 2000 Dynasty, it has the lower marker light connected to the run circuit and the turn circuit. With the turn signal off, the bulb would ground thru the signal filament. With lights on, it would blink opposite the turn signal, as it could ground the bulb between blinks. The LED bulbs won't provide this ground thru the bulb, because they are polarity specific. My solution was to disconnect the wire to the signal, & ground it, making the light a running light only. I did think about a dual filament bulb, but haven't had that much "spare" time. My turn signal flasher operates a relay, so no problem with the lighter load not triggering the flasher...

I think the name of the business would make me very wary...

Thinking of planning a trip to experience the 2024 eclipse coming April 8, 2024. We are in Maryland, would like to plan a trip to stay somewhere in the Totality zone, which reaches from Texas to Maine. It looks like Ohio has a pretty wide swath to accomplish this goal. Thoughts or suggestions on where to stay? https://nationaleclipse.com/maps.html Thank you

Well, I don't want to tempt fate by declaring victory too early, but I lubed the threads with some WD40, ran it tight, then loosened it, & tightened it up good with a crow foot line wrench on a breaker bar. Cleaned it up, ran for 10 minutes, so far, so good. I was careful not to get any dirt inside the connection. I will run it again tomorrow before putting the air filter back in. Thanks for the replies!

Update, I got the air filter out of the way, got down in the engine bay to my shoulders. Got the nut backed off, can't see the other end. No rubber seals that I can see, thinking of putting some WD40 on the threads & try tightening it up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3hiMkeGu8anWqNUr5

From your diagram, if mine is the same, the line is #31, washers are #23. This gives me where to look for the other end, which goes around the corner, just out of sight. I think I will remove the air filter to get better access, & see if I can get it apart.

I was registered on quick serve a few years ago, but can't get into it now. I tried using the email I was using then, which I still have access to, but if I put it into the lost password box, it does not find me. I tried registering for a new account, put in all the info on the free subscription, but it won't let me check out. I may try going in as a guest. I think you may have found an answer in the sealing washers if mine is the same as yours. I am going to disassemble & see what I find. Thank You Dave

I have a fuel leak, I checked, & this line is tight. I am not sure what it is attached to, or where the other end goes. Can anyone shed some light on this? I may remove the air filter tomorrow to get a better look. I'm thinking the line may be cracked at the flare. Thank You 20230414_174455.mp4

Have you read any of the posts? If you did, you would know he is only trying to get the Atwood furnace to work independently of the new A/C he installed... (Sorry, just have a problem with people who do this)

On our 2000 Dynasty, there are 2 blue wires at the front A/C unit that trigger the furnace. The same 2 wires are at the furnace, if you just connect them together, the furnace will run. there is no controlling the furnace fan separately, that is controlled by the furnace. You could just connect a simple analog thermostat to those 2 wires.