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Frank C. Brants

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  • FirstName
    Frank
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    '97 Dynasty Duke & '98 Signature Senator
  • Year
    1997
  • City & State
    Fort Worth

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  1. That MIGHT help - it's an Allison HD4560, not the HD4060, but it Might give Allison the info they need to Find the correct HD4060, thank you!! I might even buy this one, as I do need all of the mating parts, AND a Core. Thank Ivan!! Franko
  2. Update - I've called Allison several times & followed their suggestions to call (several of) my local Allison distributers, but I have YET to find out which variant of the Allison HD4060 transmission was typically mated to the Cummins N14, so if you HAVE a Monaco Motorhome with a Cummins N14 mated to an Allison HD4060 transmission, PLEASE send me a PM with the serial number. With That serial number, I Can get all of the parts I need to get this beastie back on the road again. Thank you!! Franko
  3. Thanks Jim - yes, we were very fortunate to not get crushed by the motorhome OR the building. I have checked with VisioneRV & they do have one HD4060 listed on their site that was pulled from a 1996 Blue Bird, which typically had a Detroit Diesel engine , but I need to find a serial number of a HD4060 that was mated to a Cummins N14. There are so many variants of this transmission, so I would prefer to find an exact match, if possible. I will give them a call to see if they have anything closer to what I'm looking for, thank you. With the correct serial number, the folks at https://www.transaxle.com/ can sell me the exact (remanufactured back to factory new specs) transmission & hopefully most of the supporting hardware required. My engine is relatively ok, possibly a dropped valve & a scored liner, but that's an easy fix. As for cribbing - I was Ok with 4 by 4 wooden cribbing, and the accident was caused by this loose nut behind the keyboard lifting the axle up while the key was on & the air system fully charged, but this steel tubing we're using for cribbing now is just rock solid, as it's completely uniform. That said, we're still building a "work stand" before we get back under that beast & start tugging & pulling... Thank you!!
  4. My reason for looking for a HD4060 Vs. a 4000 is the fact that any time I found a motorhome of this vintage... (I've been looking for this beastie for 10 years, so I've read a LOT of MH specs on RVTrader) ...with a Cummins N14, it was mated to a HD4060. I believe the N14 develops more torque than the 4000 is rated for. I've seen later versions of larger engines mated to the 4000, but by then, the engine management computers were sophisticated enough to limit engine torque to prevent overloading the transmission. Trust me, it still gives me shivers, watching the replay in my head of that motorhome falling over, knowing I had been under it all day long. It was a tough lesson to learn & I'm doing everything I possibly can going forward to minimize the risk. Wait until you see our "permanent" (used when we're working under the motorhome) jack stands - 1/4" wall, 4 by 4 square steel tubing with 80,000 PSI rating. That helps me sleep a little better at night. I would love to have a set of column lifts, but at $45k to $80k, they're way outside of my budget for this project.
  5. We thought about going that route, but I still (even after dropping the d*** thing...) feel that raising it up & dropping the engine & trans is the better route - especially since I may be upgrading the pistons to Speed of Air pistons (Google them if you're not familiar - huge fuel economy boost & significant emissions reduction) at a later date & I wanted to be able to pull the engine at will. The gentleman helping me is an experienced welder, so we're building "permanent" jack stands out of 1/4" wall, 4" BY 4" square tubing - the motorhome will be on the (fully braced, supported in all directions, zero chance of falling) permanent jack stands before we start working on it. BTW, it's worth noting that the images at the TOP were taken AFTER it was dropped, then lifted back up. That's where we are now. The second set of images (with the wooden cribbing) were taken before & immediately after it dropped. As mentioned before, one jack stand got hung under the front right wheel. It presented a difficult problem, as we had to raise the front axle up enough the remove the jack stand, but we didn't have a level (jackable) surface to work with. This company saved our bacon: https://rentaltoolsonline.com/rental-tools-online-pneumatic-and-hydraulic-lifting-s-251/heavy-lift-air-bags-s-204.htm The airbags pushed the motorhome up & away from the jack stand, allowing us to remove it when it was released, then gently lower the (beleaguered & abused) motorhome back onto level ground.
  6. Ok, warning to the squeamish - images of elder (motorhome) abuse follow... it's still hard for me to look at... The jack stand under the front axle, passenger side, got hung & this motorhome stayed like that for two weeks waiting for the correct equipment (lifting air bags) to arrive. Amazingly enough, we have found zero evidence of any damage to the frame. This model does NOT have slides, so that could have made a difference.
  7. Thanks Dave, this should put things in perspective. I'm in the process of rebuilding the N14 in this beastie (it had a rod knock & pulling the pan revealed vertical scoring in cylinder #1) & we had a mishap while raising it up on jack stands - we had it up at the height we wanted it & I decided I wanted another layer of safety to fall back on, just in case something broke - the jack stands were mounted under the forward (drive axle) set of vertical trailing arm / drag link supports visible between the drive & tag axles, so the wheels were dangling in the air. The frame sits directly on top of (and is secured to) this vertical support beam, so it's very sturdy. I decided to raise the drive axle up & put cribbing underneath it, to give it a place to land if something broke. We had raised the motorhome up on the air suspension earlier in the day, so I was providing air into the emergency supply port in the front & the air system was fully charged @ 120 PSI. I forgot that I had left the key on (to deflate the air bags), so when I raised the rear axle up to put cribbing under the wheels, the ride height valves started to inflate the air bags. I didn't notice it until the bottle jack (placed with the intention of JUST raising the dangling axle) got driven into the wooden cribbing. My first thought was to turn the key off, which I did, but it became unstable & fell off the jacks. When it fell, some of the cribbing crushed the CEEMAT oil pan. I later found a large crack, which I though was the transmission case, but I've since determined was actually the bell housing. So, considering the stock transmission is an unserviceable rebuilt CEEMAT (model # & serial number unknown, see the BLANK data plate installed by https://www.transgearllc.com/) with a crushed oil pan (we've confirmed it IS an oil pan & not a valve body) & cracked bell housing, I'm going to try to repair the damage, but I will definitely try to swap the transmission with a HD4060, if I can find the right one. The one thing I do have going for me is this - this motorhome is stored in a facility that used to be an RV repair facility, so I have plenty of room to work, I have power, a working head, a way to lock everything up, and all of the time I need. Photos were taken after it dropped & we raised it back up again - we switched from wooden cribbing to 1/4" wall 4" by 4" square steel tubing. I'll post a better photo of the bell housing when we drop the engine & transmission.
  8. Ok, I believe I found the listing you're referring to: https://truckpartsinventory.com/part-details/82461698/used-1995-allison-hd4560p-transmissio-ssy-for-sale Thank you, that's a start.
  9. Thanks, but my goal is to replace it with an Allison HD4060, IF I can find a valid serial number, which will allow the nice folks over at https://www.transaxle.com/ to find the correct model of the HD4060 that Roadmaster used with the Cummins N14 engine.
  10. This is going to be a bit of an odd request. I have a 1998 Monaco Signature, no slides, with a Cummins N14 & an Eaton CEEMAT 9 speed transmission with a cracked case. The Eaton CEEMAT is no longer being serviced by the one company I found that works on them. So, my best option is to purchase a Reman Allison HD4060 & all of the kit that goes with it. In order to find the right model, I need a serial number from a comparable unit. So, if you have a comparable setup, may I borrow your serial number to give to the nice folks over at https://www.transaxle.com/ so they can find me a new transmission? Thank you!! Franko
  11. I'm about 99% certain that I'm going to install Speed of Air pistons (https://www.speedofair.com/), which will make this old N14 run a LOT cleaner, so I decided to drop the engine & transmission onto a 6,000 pound capacity scissor lift designed for cars. I'm hoping I can drop it straight down - there is a cross member for the trailer hitch in the way, but we will unbolt it after we get the engine supported on the scissor lift. I bought an itty-bitty, teeny-tiny little engine stand - I sure hope it can hold my engine up... https://www.uniquetruck.com/product/14193/kiene-mobile-diesel-engine-rebuild-stand-5000-lb-capacity If all goes well, we will repair the one cylinder that's damaged, put the engine on a dyno & collect all the stats & exhaust gas info, rebuild with the new Speed of Air pistons, then run the dyno test again to get good data on the performance of the Speed of Air pistons. Franko
  12. I'm just now resuming work on this project... I pulled the oil pan (after collecting oil samples) & didn't find any surprises in the pan & zero glitter, but I can clearly see vertical scoring on cylinder #1's liner. I'm following the Cummins Service Manual's guidance to pull the heads: Drain the cooling system. Refer to Procedure 008-018 in Section 8. Remove the charge-air cooler connections or tube. Refer to Procedure 010-027 in Section 10. Remove the crankcase breather (external). Refer to Procedure 003-001 in Section 3. Remove the rocker lever covers. Refer to Procedure 003-011 in Section 3. Remove the air intake manifold assembly. Refer to Procedure 010-023 in Section 10. Remove the turbocharger. Refer to Procedure 010-033 in Section 10. Remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to Procedure 011-007 in Section 11. Remove the injector wiring harness connectors. Remove the engine brake if equipped. Refer to Procedure 020-024 in Section 20. Remove the rocker lever assemblies. Refer to Procedure 003-009 in Section 3. Remove the push rods. Refer to Procedure 004-014 in Section 4. Remove the valve crossheads. Refer to Procedure 002-001 in Section 2. Remove the fuel supply and fuel drain lines. Refer to Procedure 006-012 in Section 6. Disconnect the injector wiring at the pass through connector. Remove the injector. Refer to Procedure 006-026 in Section 6. Remove the rocker lever housing. Refer to Procedure 003-013 in Section 3. It could be worse... I could be doing this without the aid of a service manual... I bit the bullet & purchased a HD (i.e., Designed to handle THESE engines) engine stand (my 8.3 needs a little TLC, so what the hey...) + a 6,000 pound auto lift to lower the engine / trans onto. I'm buying a lot of tools, but doing the work myself with the help of a paid assistant. Will post updates as the work progresses. Franko
  13. Hello Fellow Monacoers!! I have searched through the (invaluable!!) Downloads section, https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/24-wiring-diagrams/, and I've searched through this (Electrical Systems) forum for "1998 and schematic", but so far, no luck finding the full schematics (normally included in the last pages of your owner's manual) for a 1998 all electric Signature. Does anybody have any leads on a "known '98 Signature owner", or a set of schematics? I'm not battling any particular problem at the moment (still working on the engine rebuild), but I would love to have a set for future reference. It goes without saying that if I DO find a set, I will upload them to the "Downloads" section. TIA (Thanks in Advance 🙂 Franko
  14. Is it safe to lift a MH onto jack stands by placing a hydraulic jack under the center of the differential, then lowering it onto jack stands placed below the air bag connection points? Thanks!! Franko
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