OhReally

Take it to an auto body shop. They can fix the hinge, repair if necessary and paint it.

Bonfield, Upper oil pressure sensor is VDO 360009 and lower sensor is Cummins 5677803 for my 8.3L engine. Pcpronze, your accelerator is likely not the problem because the stop engine has caused engine derating leading to behavior you describe. The accelerator is probably not involved with what caused the light to begin with. I would pursue getting your money back as your situation is obviously the problem where too many Cummins "mechanics" are totally dependent on what their computer tells them. As I have said before, a diagnostic system is doing quite well if it delivers 95% accuracy. The last 5% needs to be made up by the mechanic's experience. Just saying...

I assume you have the Cummins 8.3L engine. If so, here is my experience. Your engine will likely have two oil pressure sensors, one on top behind alternator and one on side above starter. Cummins can't tell you about engines with both sensors because they claim that one was installed by then and the other by Monaco/Holiday Rambler. Information from both is arbitrated by ECU and failure of either can cause stop engine light. This may happen even though the analog gauge, excited by the same sensors, does not show no oil pressure. Either sensor has a greater than expected failure history. The upper one's warning signal usually becomes faulty and the lower one may leak and be inaccurate. Why Cummins and Monaco/HR did it this way is questionable. If this is your problem you can easily replace both with limited tools. Don't buy off-brand, get Cummins or VDO parts. I don't want to say this will fix your problem but it may. Good luck.

First: Check all electrical (battery) connections at the pump and reservoir. Second: Run jacks (especially front) up and down several times. Pump uses a fairly large current and loose connections can cause issues. If low fluid you may have introduced air into the Jacks and lines to the jacks. If so, it may behave like you describe. Running jacks up and down should get rid of the air and fix your issue. Lastly: You shouldn't loose much, if any, hydraulic fluid under normal usage. Fix leaks in system if you have lost a fair amount.

If anyone tries this lidar sender please post results. Internet has a few reviews but it isn't clear the folks trying the sender had a reasonable grasp of written English language. Thanks.

Contact Centroid Products, Inc (Florida), Mary at 386-423-3574 between 8a-2p EST Mon/THU. They probably made the original one you have in your coach. They will tell you what you need.

Mike, my coach also has an in-line fuse right at the jack pump. That fuse broke once but looked good so it took me awhile to find and fix it. If you have that fuse you might check all connections there and jumper or replace it to see if that helps.

Make sure you haven't selected economy mode. That will make shifting sluggish.

Jim, you probably have a control box (maybe in the battery cabinet) (sometimes combined with original solar controller) about 12" by 8". Inside the box you will find a small circuit board that has a single automatic resettable breaker and some plug in relays. The circuit warms up (measures circuit amperage) when you move the slides and senses the current increase when you're slide hits either the in or out stops and cuts the voltage to the slide motors. That circuit heating can either cause the resettable breaker to go bad or the connections for the breaker to expand and not make good contact with the breaker. That's what usually causes intermittent operation like you describe. If it's the expanded connections to the breaker you can simply squeeze them closed a bit with plyers and you're good as new, for awhile, (not a great design, but it works! Good luck!

Tom, just a comment about your dash light. SilverLeaf, like any other diagnostic system, is at the mercy of small system signals that may go high or low for many reasons. The dash light comes on when any signal is "out of limits" per the diagnostic system designer. Any diagnostic system will act on this momentary out of limits signal and try to determine where the signal originated. That is a difficult thing to do and will often result in multiple different codes that suggest a problem in components that are operating just fine. That is (unfortunately) normal given that any diagnostic system only approaches 100% capability and accuracy. I recently received three different codes on my SilverLeaf when an oil pressure sender failed. Two of the three codes were unrelated to the oil pressure sender and no problems existed in those other components. Watch for any new codes in your SilverLeaf history and like Vito said, enjoy your coach.

I probably wouldn't be asking this question if I had good schematics. Sadly my 2003 Scepter PDT falls into the gap where Holiday Rambler disposed of the schematics. My brake lights quit working when the exhaust brake applies. Brake lights work as they should when brake pedal is applied. Any suggestions appreciated.

Sounds electrical to me. In my experience things that should be connected to the starting battery are sometimes connected to the coach battery, so check both. First thing I would do is, not inspect, but remove all battery connections, clean and reinstall. After that an inspection of your battery cut-offs would be in order. One way to do this is, while coach is hot from running, place your hand on each switch to see if it is unusually warm. It may be getting old and have significantly more resistance than when new.

Sounds like gauge is toast. May have been toast before Cummins replacement. One final check would be to use an ohmmeter. 1- Disconnect wires at sensor 2- set meter to resistance (ohmmeter) 3- connect one ohmmeter lead to S or G on sensor 4- connect 2nd ohmmeter lead to engine ground 5- read ohmmeter results 6- start engine and read results again Post results from 5 and 6.

Yes, G is for Ground but do not connect it to ground. The ground comes from the sending unit when oil pressure is available. Do not add another ground with a hose clamp. That won't hurt or help anything. As DavidL said (with my additions), 1- disconnect any wires at the sending unit, 2- check the gauge reading, 3- turn on the ignition (,do not start engine), 4- check the gauge, 5- reconnect the wire(s) to the sensor, 6- check the gauge, 7- turn on the ignition (,do not start engine), 8- check the gauge. If the gauge now deflects all the way to full in step 2, 4, 6 or 8, you have a problem and we need to know the gauge reading in each step (2,4,6,8). After knowing the gauge reading for each step we should have solid information to continue troubleshooting your problem.

Darrell, I have never seen that marking before but I feel fairly confident your WR is my WK and your S is my G. The curious thing about this device is that it is both a variable sensor and a switch. I am fairly confident that the switch part provides a go/no go signal to the ECM as well as to an idiot light. When the idiot light is turned on by the WR or WK it also sends a signal to the ECM and you get an engine shut down light and the ECM can command limp mode. If the above is actually correct and you have two wires for the sensor, you do need to connect both terminals in the correct arrangement. BTW I recently replaced my sensor with the p/n 9832 from O'Reilly's and my ISC is happy again. Cummins said they had no knowledge of the two terminal sensor for this engine ESN so it must have been a Monaco/Holiday Rambler installation, even though it serves the ECM. Cummins does list several similar sensors but denies their application for the ISC. Go figure....

Can't speak to whether Cummins damaged your gauge but if they didn't check the gauge function after installing the new sensor then they definitely owe you a refund! As for the 2003 ISC 350hp sensor, it should look like what Jim suggested but it probably has two terminals, not one. The connections to the sensor are marked G and WK on the sensor. Amazon does have these or Jegs or O'Reilly. If you have the two terminal one, it is p/n 9832. Be careful not to swap the G and WK wires. If you do it won't work. That may be your problem with what Cummins installed.

Thanks Tom and Craig for your feedback. I too have literally years of Amazon orders in my past, and yes, they have the variety and usually deliver with limited hassle, but I stand by my comment that Amazon should always apprise me of their shipping method when I place the order. As an Amazon customer who pays the steadily increasing price for their Prime services, and occasionally (like today) depends on their timely shipping, I would intentionally avoid the order when USPS will be involved. I am not a party to the agreement between USPS and Amazon and I shouldn't be expected to put up with Amazon blaming USPS for Amazon's systematic delivery failures. -Jamie

Think twice before relying on Amazon! I, like many other RV'ers depend on Amazon to receive packages while we are traveling. My recent experience as a long-time Amazon Prime customer has proven that their delivery link and/or promise CANNOT BE RELIED UPON! The problem appears to be associated with Amazon reserving the right, and not informing the customer, of the shipping method to be utilized. Their promised delivery date may be dependent on their Prime trucks, FedEx, UPS or USPS - but you will have no knowledge of this until problems arise. My recent experience was when ordering a small but crucial diesel engine part that was already located in Amazon's warehouse. The warehouse was slightly less than 1 hour away from me so, without any further information from Amazon, I assumed the part would be delivered, as promised, by a Prime truck the next day. The next day I first received notification from Amazon that the part was on its way, then later that it had been returned as "undeliverable" and/or "damaged" - take your pick. They had shipped via USPS and the post office which was 3 miles from the campground I was in had a street address but USPS would still not cooperate to make my delivery - they simply declined to do their job, leaving me totally in the lurch. Sounds like some discrepancies in Amazon's contract with USPS to me, giving USPS an easy way out. Amazon Customer Service was completely useless! Why they even bother to call it Customer Service is the question. I now had no recourse but to find the part elsewhere, extend my stay (again) at this campground, delay my planned travel, try to change upcoming reservations, grouse over what Customer Service has come to mean in this country, and wait for the part. Your mileage may vary, but for me, I will consider alternatives to Amazon Prime more closely in the future. -Jamie

Are you sure it isn't a leak on the connections to the shower spigot? If so, simply undo the screws holding the spigot adapter plate (usually plastic) to the wall and tighten the connections by hand. The connections are designed to be hand tightened and they often loosen up due to the earthquake when traveling down the road. If successful you may need to re-caulk the adapter plate to the shower wall afterwards. Probably significantly cheaper than a tech visit!

Les, your jacks are connected to your vehicle chassis and not the body. Your airbags are between the chassis and the body. Your jacks level the frame and dumping air allows the vehicle body to settle on the frame. Stretching airbags should only be an issue if you jack a wheel off the ground. Even then, the shock absorber extend limit should run out before you stretch airbags. If you get rocking after leveling you either have a wheel off or almost off the ground, a jack without much weight on it or the jacks are too far extended from their retracted position. You should always limit any one or more jack's extension to only what is necessary to level. As far as the order of air dump, jacks extended, slides out, I don't disagree with how you read the manufacturer's recommendations but it is far more important to go by my guidelines above when leveling and do not try to make a bad camping spot work for you!

Ivan is correct. Because the transmission control check tries to be an accurate representation of the expanded (hot) fluid level it does not work unless enough transmission heat exists. This doesn't rule out a problem with the transmission fluid level sensor but the temperature is something to check before panicking. Just give it a check when you know the transmission should be hot, like under driving conditions when you've just climbed a hill and it's not raining. Rain cools the transmission quickly.

I second what Tom Cherry says about tightening as all screws you can get to in your electrical system. I also recommend that everyone do this once a year as preventative maintenance. The more you use your electrical system, the hotter a bad connection can get. The hotter a bad connection gets, the more potential for a fire. Many RVs have been lost to this lack of appropriate maintenance. I would also add, while tightening the screws, pay close attention to any burned or slightly burned wire insulation. If you see any signs of a hot connection get it looked at as soon as possible by a trained RV tech or electrician.

As Jim said above but be sure to use silicone grease. It's waterproof and available at any Lowe's or home Depot. Use on the blade also instead of the Vaseline which doesn't last.

Kurt, here's a random selection from Amazon. It says it is rated for 20 amps. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9QXKA/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B000C9QXKA&pd_rd_w=3Wljm&content-id=amzn1.sym.b2ec5262-f041-4d36-80e4-d6ae45347c6c&pf_rd_p=b2ec5262-f041-4d36-80e4-d6ae45347c6c&pf_rd_r=7KFYS51YPEEX376NT1GJ&pd_rd_wg=TilAj&pd_rd_r=11b33749-5043-44f7-a3f9-9a1b3e4a0ef9&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVjVRRjVYUUNCVUdGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDI3Njc5Mk9COERaN1JaTUFKSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDgwNjQ0MlJVMDBFVTFHNVhVViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= -Jamie

I have one from my '03 Scepter (see picture) that you can have for shipping cost if interested. I removed this panel when replacing the main instrument panel. It is in very good condition.