OhReally

Take it to an auto body shop. They can fix the hinge, repair if necessary and paint it.

Bonfield, Upper oil pressure sensor is VDO 360009 and lower sensor is Cummins 5677803 for my 8.3L engine. Pcpronze, your accelerator is likely not the problem because the stop engine has caused engine derating leading to behavior you describe. The accelerator is probably not involved with what caused the light to begin with. I would pursue getting your money back as your situation is obviously the problem where too many Cummins "mechanics" are totally dependent on what their computer tells them. As I have said before, a diagnostic system is doing quite well if it delivers 95% accuracy. The last 5% needs to be made up by the mechanic's experience. Just saying...

I assume you have the Cummins 8.3L engine. If so, here is my experience. Your engine will likely have two oil pressure sensors, one on top behind alternator and one on side above starter. Cummins can't tell you about engines with both sensors because they claim that one was installed by then and the other by Monaco/Holiday Rambler. Information from both is arbitrated by ECU and failure of either can cause stop engine light. This may happen even though the analog gauge, excited by the same sensors, does not show no oil pressure. Either sensor has a greater than expected failure history. The upper one's warning signal usually becomes faulty and the lower one may leak and be inaccurate. Why Cummins and Monaco/HR did it this way is questionable. If this is your problem you can easily replace both with limited tools. Don't buy off-brand, get Cummins or VDO parts. I don't want to say this will fix your problem but it may. Good luck.

First: Check all electrical (battery) connections at the pump and reservoir. Second: Run jacks (especially front) up and down several times. Pump uses a fairly large current and loose connections can cause issues. If low fluid you may have introduced air into the Jacks and lines to the jacks. If so, it may behave like you describe. Running jacks up and down should get rid of the air and fix your issue. Lastly: You shouldn't loose much, if any, hydraulic fluid under normal usage. Fix leaks in system if you have lost a fair amount.

If anyone tries this lidar sender please post results. Internet has a few reviews but it isn't clear the folks trying the sender had a reasonable grasp of written English language. Thanks.

Contact Centroid Products, Inc (Florida), Mary at 386-423-3574 between 8a-2p EST Mon/THU. They probably made the original one you have in your coach. They will tell you what you need.

Mike, my coach also has an in-line fuse right at the jack pump. That fuse broke once but looked good so it took me awhile to find and fix it. If you have that fuse you might check all connections there and jumper or replace it to see if that helps.

Make sure you haven't selected economy mode. That will make shifting sluggish.

Jim, you probably have a control box (maybe in the battery cabinet) (sometimes combined with original solar controller) about 12" by 8". Inside the box you will find a small circuit board that has a single automatic resettable breaker and some plug in relays. The circuit warms up (measures circuit amperage) when you move the slides and senses the current increase when you're slide hits either the in or out stops and cuts the voltage to the slide motors. That circuit heating can either cause the resettable breaker to go bad or the connections for the breaker to expand and not make good contact with the breaker. That's what usually causes intermittent operation like you describe. If it's the expanded connections to the breaker you can simply squeeze them closed a bit with plyers and you're good as new, for awhile, (not a great design, but it works! Good luck!

Tom, just a comment about your dash light. SilverLeaf, like any other diagnostic system, is at the mercy of small system signals that may go high or low for many reasons. The dash light comes on when any signal is "out of limits" per the diagnostic system designer. Any diagnostic system will act on this momentary out of limits signal and try to determine where the signal originated. That is a difficult thing to do and will often result in multiple different codes that suggest a problem in components that are operating just fine. That is (unfortunately) normal given that any diagnostic system only approaches 100% capability and accuracy. I recently received three different codes on my SilverLeaf when an oil pressure sender failed. Two of the three codes were unrelated to the oil pressure sender and no problems existed in those other components. Watch for any new codes in your SilverLeaf history and like Vito said, enjoy your coach.

I probably wouldn't be asking this question if I had good schematics. Sadly my 2003 Scepter PDT falls into the gap where Holiday Rambler disposed of the schematics. My brake lights quit working when the exhaust brake applies. Brake lights work as they should when brake pedal is applied. Any suggestions appreciated.

Sounds electrical to me. In my experience things that should be connected to the starting battery are sometimes connected to the coach battery, so check both. First thing I would do is, not inspect, but remove all battery connections, clean and reinstall. After that an inspection of your battery cut-offs would be in order. One way to do this is, while coach is hot from running, place your hand on each switch to see if it is unusually warm. It may be getting old and have significantly more resistance than when new.

Sounds like gauge is toast. May have been toast before Cummins replacement. One final check would be to use an ohmmeter. 1- Disconnect wires at sensor 2- set meter to resistance (ohmmeter) 3- connect one ohmmeter lead to S or G on sensor 4- connect 2nd ohmmeter lead to engine ground 5- read ohmmeter results 6- start engine and read results again Post results from 5 and 6.

Yes, G is for Ground but do not connect it to ground. The ground comes from the sending unit when oil pressure is available. Do not add another ground with a hose clamp. That won't hurt or help anything. As DavidL said (with my additions), 1- disconnect any wires at the sending unit, 2- check the gauge reading, 3- turn on the ignition (,do not start engine), 4- check the gauge, 5- reconnect the wire(s) to the sensor, 6- check the gauge, 7- turn on the ignition (,do not start engine), 8- check the gauge. If the gauge now deflects all the way to full in step 2, 4, 6 or 8, you have a problem and we need to know the gauge reading in each step (2,4,6,8). After knowing the gauge reading for each step we should have solid information to continue troubleshooting your problem.

Darrell, I have never seen that marking before but I feel fairly confident your WR is my WK and your S is my G. The curious thing about this device is that it is both a variable sensor and a switch. I am fairly confident that the switch part provides a go/no go signal to the ECM as well as to an idiot light. When the idiot light is turned on by the WR or WK it also sends a signal to the ECM and you get an engine shut down light and the ECM can command limp mode. If the above is actually correct and you have two wires for the sensor, you do need to connect both terminals in the correct arrangement. BTW I recently replaced my sensor with the p/n 9832 from O'Reilly's and my ISC is happy again. Cummins said they had no knowledge of the two terminal sensor for this engine ESN so it must have been a Monaco/Holiday Rambler installation, even though it serves the ECM. Cummins does list several similar sensors but denies their application for the ISC. Go figure....