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sjamiejones

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  • FirstName
    Jamie
  • Make
    Holiday Ramber
  • Model
    Scepter 40 PDT
  • Year
    2003

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  1. Bruce, I had a similar problem that I traced to an in line fuse next to the pump/solenoid in the rear of my coach. I looked at the fuse repeatedly and it looked good but in the end it turned out to actually be open. Wasted a lot of time for no good reason.
  2. James, just to close the loop on differences between your dryer plug and the RV wiring. The dryer takes 240 volts to run and your RV does not. The RV takes two 120 volt ines, splits them inside the RV breaker box and runs a 120 volt leg to some plugs and appliances and another 120 volts leg to others. Nowhere do the two 120 volt legs feed any single plug or appliance like in your dryer. Unless your RV has been rewired in some fashion (highly unlikely), you DO NOT HAVE ANYTHING THAT REQUIRES 240 volts. This is the easiest way to describe the difference between plugs without getting deep into el
  3. Joe, just a couple things to keep in mind as you sort your tv problems. 1- many campground cable tv services WILL NOT WORK if you have the rv antenna booster powered on while trying to get a cable signal, and 2- many TVs WILL NOT WORK (especially if a few years old) with the digital signal from the campground cable - nothing to do but try to update the TV's firmware or get a newer TV.
  4. One thing that no one has mentioned so far is that some tank, lines, filters, etc. combinations simply lend themselves to accumulating more water in the tank than others. So, IMO if you haven't had a problem and don't use some preventative like Biobor you are either very lucky or your number has not yet come up. Cheers.
  5. If your voltage was slightly low your fridge might do as you describe. Always check the voltage when you suspect a cooling problem, especially when operation in hot weather. You could also have a bad heater element. Measure the current dissipated through each coil and compare to each other and specs.
  6. Gary, your melted plug could be anything from a loose connection in the plug itself or a lightning strike on the storage facility power to a loose connection in your breaker box. Since you obviously need a new plug end you will eliminate the plug issue and if the DC breaker for your cable reel actually went at the same time as a power surge, I would guess a lightning strike on the storage facility. Unfortunately it is difficult to diagnose but I would check out all of the remaining appliances/items in your coach looking for other failures to determine a power surge. Another thing to do is clos
  7. Yes, replacing the switch is more difficult to get to than it is to replace, but you do need to drain the air pressure when changing the switch. Keep in mind that the circuit design is the problem and your new switch will be compromised by that same bad circuit design and may fail sooner than later.
  8. Ray, sounds like you got the Cummins B-Team. The battery voltage may drop during starting with a bad starter but your batteries may be fine. Voltage is probably the wrong thing to monitor to diagnose this problem. The bad starter has sucked up a lot of current from the batteries and you naturally see a low voltage condition. Based on your history replacing batteries I would guess the starter has been bad or the fuel problem has resulted in hard starting that damaged the starter previously. Like Jim said, biodiesel can be a problem. If you have a dirty tank to start with, biodiesel will do
  9. Here is another Day I part number you might try, Dayco 3936213. I can't vouch for correctness as I simply ran across this number while searching. You are correct to suspect the different timing of the tensioner you tried. If too loose it will not do the job and if too tight it will fatigue and break down the rubber in the tensioner quickly (from experience)! -Jamie
  10. Sure sounds like the nason switch on your park brake control. There are many articles on this, in this and other forums. Not hard to replace switch once you find one. Some are cheap and some expensive for the same part. HR and Monaco both suffered from this poor design in that vintage of rv - too much current through the switch causes the failure. I have attached an article RE the nason switch. I made the mod described in the article and everything now works as it should. Hope this helps. -Jamie nason parking brake switch.pdf
  11. Probably the same as my 2003 8.3 ISC, Cummins 3973819. -Jamie
  12. One on left closely resembles a muffler bearing.
  13. Ken, I agree with above answers, especially Highwayman. Solenoid on starter or cabling to that solenoid would be my troubleshooting starting point. Most likely, your starter is current limited and that explains the intermittent operation. A loose or corroded cable between the battery and the starter solenoid will do exactly what you describe. If you ignore a bad connection on the starter or starter solenoid it could eventually burn through a connection post and force you to replace a part. The ignition switch would be the last item on my troubleshooting checklist.
  14. Dave, you will likely not get the best performance from the existing fixtures and LEDs but that doesn't mean you won't get some "improvement". That said, you need to be aware that most aftermarket LED replacements (and many OEMs) are not legal in most states. Our state enforcement officials have completely rolled over and are not enforcing the laws. I am a physicist who has spent much of my career designing and building optical systems so I have a bit of experience in this area. Most replacement LEDs concentrate on brightness but that is very misleading since the brightness is a function
  15. Just a note since you don't want to travel in northeast. The I95 corridor in South Carolina would be a good place to put an interstate highway! -Jamie
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