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  1. Well, the remote temperature sensor also has to connect to the control board (usually a white dipole connector), so that would be the logical place for the control board as well. On ours, those vanity cabinet walls run top-to-bottom, so there would be plenty of room in there for the control board (~4x5x2?). Monaco was known for taking the easiest path for construction, so it would be logical that they would have run the data cable and Aqua-Hot control wires together. Happy hunting!
  2. This is a relatively uncommon issue but it is documented. In order to make a 2-roof-unit system have 3 zones, Monaco hid a Dometic control board (just the board) somewhere in the cabinetry, usually in the vanity-shower-lavatory area. That board is connected to the rear roof unit by a data cable with a RJ-11 plug. The board’s DIP switches are set to enable “furnace”, and the two 12VDC control wires for the Aqua-Hot zone are connected. As you’ve already learned, the Dometic board controls the Aqua-Hot. You should have seen those wires, which are blue, in the other roof unit installations. T
  3. Rick, To answer your ultimate question, you can certainly drive with your current situation. I had the same for several years before I ended up taking it to HWH in Iowa for repairs. I would use the air leveling system to raise it all the way up, then feel it drop back to something akin to “Travel” mode once in gear. As mentioned above, it’s likely one of the pressure switches that’s failed and not signaling the control board. Or it could be the control module itself. HWH replaced one pressure switch on mine, but I also had them “rehab” the whole control box while I was there. Safe tr
  4. Al, As I was using the FMCA program, the HSR2 SA was not included in their list (see below). I have never had an issue with Regional use profiles for tires since I don't really consider our usage pattern to be overwhelmingly "Long Haul". We use Interstates, of course, but not exclusively. Some of our driving days are several hundred miles but a lot are much shorter. When we "do the Pacific Coast", we often have less than 50 miles between stops at Elks Lodges, and lots of non-highway driving. Regional is fine for me, especially since I'm using these on my Drive axle. My local tire sho
  5. I found the rim information here: https://www.continental-truck.com/truck/products/tires/people/ccha3 and here (select the 12R if the 10R shows first): https://www.continental-truck.com/truck/products/tires/people/hsr2 On each page, scroll down to the "Product Range" section.
  6. I've been running 315s on 8.25" original rims on our 2005 45' Exec since 2009. Upgraded the tires on our way to Alaska that year. Michelin XZA1 on Steer and BFGoodrich equivalents on the Tag for a "warm spare" (never needed). Tried to do the same with a friend's 2006 Dynasty but found the clearance issue with the right front air bag perch. Monaco made chassis changes between 2005 and 2006 model years. When first Michelins started cracking (my bad; no proper maintenance/covering in AZ storage), I replaced the XZA1s with XZA2 Energy 315 which, at the time, were $50/tire cheaper than 295s (d
  7. Scotty, Good call on the Yahoo search. Yes, I had weld issues with the AeroTurbine and did replace it with a "MagnaFlow". I had the AeroTurbine 5050XL installed at Bill D's suggestion in early 2007 by Brazel's at the Indio FMCA rally. It was $535 installed. By early 2009, I noticed cracks in the inlet weld. With a "lifetime warranty" on the Aero, I tried to get a replacement but the Great Recession intervened and the manufacturer ghosted me. With a little research, I found the MagnaFlow with the same specs (30"L, 24" body with 7" diameter, 5" inlet and outlet) and bought it from Summ
  8. Rick, My schematics are in a spiral-bound, legal-sized book, and I agree that there is precious little about the DD60 specifically. I've generally assumed that the lack of specifics meant that all configurations were the same but, well, you know about assumptions. I think we are both likely victims of Monaco's lax documentation. I suspect that the Detroit option was probably started with the Sig in model year 2004 (or perhaps 2003). It was clearly an optional add by the ordering dealer (Buddy Gregg) on mine, built early 2004. It wasn't uncommon for the documentation to lag by several
  9. Rick, I will check to see if I have any pictures from various projects that show this board, but I don’t recall it, or an “engine” fuse, specifically. The usual place for fuses like that is the series of ones in individual fuse holders that are lined up in the engine compartment, just above the chassis batteries. Those were the ones Monaco needed in place so they could drive the bare chassis between plants, before all the circuits were even installed. In terms of the schematics, are you saying that the diagram book you received with the Coach doesn’t have Exec drawings, or that you’r
  10. Rick P, The issue I'm tracking on mine is elusive. I've had a minor amount of residue on the toad but usually the symptom is a good pint+ of discharge from the hydraulic overflow. One theory is that the discharge happens after shutdown, not while driving. I've been monitoring that and found a 4-5 minute "cool down" period before shutting the engine off lessens the likelihood of discharge. From what you describe, it appears that you do NOT have the same issue. One additional thing I've done is put a "slobber bottle" on the hydraulic overflow. Gatorade bottles are my friend. I drilled
  11. Rick P, You may want to check past threads about an issue that has cropped up with some rigs of your vintage with the Allison 4000. Depending on the configuration, there may be a power take-off (“PTO”) on the transmission that drives the hydraulic (fan, steering) pump. In some cases, the internal seals in the hydraulic pump allow transmission fluid to flow into the hydraulic system. This yields a low reading on the transmission fluid level without any signs of external leaking, and a corresponding slow increase in the fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir. Eventually, the hydraulic syste
  12. I agree with the comments on ignition coil checking. For clarification, the operation of the heating functions (both diesel and electric) is controlled by the system on/off switches (usually in the galley) and the unit’s internal fluid thermostat(s). There is no direct link to the furnace heating functions from the house thermostat(s). Those activate the circulating pumps and heat exchangers. The heating functions will then indirectly be triggered by the gradual cooling of the boiler fluid. This is why the heating functions will activate even if the house thermostat(s) are off, and why t
  13. These are “push” rivets, not “pop” rivets. While they don’t have to be the nylon ones, if you do use aluminum pop rivets, be sure to grind or file off any remnants of the “pin” so as not to damage the slide seal when deploying/retracting. George C, 2005 Exec
  14. Steve, it’s highly likely that it was just changed out. These units had a tendency to leak when they failed. Owners who had that happen generally only spent the $500 to replace if they actually used them. We didn’t. When ours failed, I did exactly what you describe: put a .5 micron Culligan filter under the sink and used the spigot for drinking water. Assuming the person who made the change wasn’t mighty PO’d, they probably left the 120VAC outlet and 12VDC switch that controls a relay for the outlet in place. That would allow you to put in a new one if you wanted. As an aside, I try to an
  15. Mike, Just curious. What is a high limit thermostat reset? The only physical reset I’m aware of on my original 03S (and my current 600D) is the low voltage cut-out, which is reset by pressing a thin probe into the control panel hole next to the warning light. But I’m not aware of any other reset function, so would love to know for future reference. Thanks, George C
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