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georgecederholm

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  • FirstName
    George
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Executive
  • Year
    2005
  • City & State
    Box Elder, SD

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  1. Dennis, I think the LP detector is wired into the chassis battery circuits on many older models, possibly to better support a “always on” operation (questionable logic, of course). The fuse block usually located in the bedroom, sometimes in the closet, is fed by the house battery circuits.
  2. In the first video, the drippage looks rather brown, so it might be boiler fluid rather than engine coolant. There are a lot of hoses involved, 2 for each furnace zone circulation and two for the engine pre-heat (supply and return for each). Most of them connect to stubs or elbows originally supplied by Aqua-Hot, so up to 4 hose clamps per line, plus connections inside the Aqua-Hot box at the circulation pumps. If the original constant-pressure clamps have been replaced with regular hose clamps, they can need tightening periodically. From where it seems to be leaking, I’d recommend starting by removing the Aqua-Hot cover to access the burner and internal connections, and see if anything can be found there. Since all of the zone and engine preheat line tend to run away from the unit, they would be less likely to leak down through the unit as the video appears to show much of the leak coming out near the hole in the floor that acts as the furnace air intake. One last thought based on the original question: if the leak is actually engine coolant, then there are actually 2 additional hoses that run from the engine to the dash heater and will pass right over the Aqua-Hot on the way forward. I think those aren’t the likely culprits because there shouldn’t be any splices in that area and it would be tougher for a leak to work its way into the Aqua-Hot box.
  3. MCD changed both their motor technology and associated remotes several times over the years. I’m not familiar with the white remote as our latest one in a 15-channel one in black, but you likely need to replace the motors to make them work with the new remote, or find an old-style remote aftermarket. We were “lucky” I guess in that we changed most of the living area and galley motors before the majority of the changes, but when we moved on to the next phase of replacing the cockpit and bedroom motors, that’s when we needed the new remote. I’m a little surprised that they aren’t responsive to this, because the AirXcel takeover a few years ago increased the focus on sales over service.
  4. It’s also possibly the control for the tag lift. The tag axle will have a normal leveling and ride height set of lines to the air bags, and will also have a separate set of smaller air bags to raise the axle when the driver armrest switch is activated. Basically, the switch is wired to the leveling system, telling it to dump the tag axle air bags and inflate the bags that raise the axle a few inches.
  5. If the block heater outlet isn’t found or otherwise not an option, you can possibly add a new circuit if you’ve got an open slot in the main circuit breaker panel (not the sub-panel, which controls all the circuits driven from the inverter). If you have an empty breaker spot, knock out the opening, get a 15A or 20A breaker from Home Depot or Lowe’s or (your preference) of the same type as the breaker box and run 14-2 (15A) or 12-2 (20A) Romex down into the engine compartment and then to wherever you want. Outlet would be hot whenever on shore or generator as long as the breaker was “on”. If you don’t have an empty spare slot in the main panel, you might be able to find a “two things in one” dual breaker that fits in one slot and replace a full-sized breaker. Also, you mentioned that you have a Norcold refrigerator, which probably means you have inverted and non-inverted outlets behind the refrigerator outside access panel. The inverted outlet is for the icemaker and the other is for the refrigerator, which only supplies 120VAC when on shore or generator power, exactly what you’re looking for. Put a multi-tap on the refrigerator outlet, plug the refrigerator and an extension cord in, snake the extension cord to the outside and you’re good to go.
  6. I agree with the thoughts on using a ratcheting screwdriver bit, possibly modified to make it shorter, to get at the inside screws in the lower right corner if the dash is too close and interferes. I’ll also caution that some of the remaining screws might not be perfectly aligned. When I had my fogged windows “fixed” the first time, the tech really gouged the interior frame in several places with his driver bit by rubbing it right against the frame. I had to smooth out the rough spots as best I could and use some touch-up paint afterwards. If he had held a thin piece of sheet metal in place to protect the frame, this wouldn’t have happened. Probably the biggest lesson I learned is that many of the “fixes” may not last. Ours fogged up about 3 years after purchase and I had it “fixed” at Suncoast Designers, one of the first to promote “defogging”. Lasted 4-5 years, well past the limited warranty. Then I had it “fixed” by Coach Glass in Eugene. Another 4-5 years. By the time I was ready to address it again, Coach Glass had essentially abandoned the defogging approach and was promoting using dual-pane laminated glass (no space inside to fog up) with a longer warranty. It’s been fine since, but you need to make sure they replace the seal, not just reinstall the new glass.
  7. After one failed repair with spa hose, I did exactly what Jim P mentioned above: replaced the white PVC fittings with reducers to 1” threaded and used barbed fittings to 1” plastic reinforced hose. Got everything at Home Depot for under $25. Been in place for ver 10 years with no issues. One thing I learned in the process was to never clamp the spa hose to the trolley if you go that way, as that will add a separate flex point that will force the spa hose to pinch. Only use zip ties or rubberized straps on the ABS and/or PVC parts. Another option for the hose is “bilge hose” which is more flexible. Monaco used that to connect my external water fill to the water tank, and when I replaced that I realized that it would have been a decent choice for the kitchen drain. Bottom line: you can use almost any type of flexible hose 1” (probably 3/4” actually) or greater. There is no real pressure in the hose as it’s purely gravity drain. Make it easy to install/replace. Don’t clamp anything on the flexible hose to add pinch points.
  8. I wasn't going to comment for a similar reason: on our 2005 Exec, all three rear brake lights (and I suppose the trailer harness wiring as well, are controlled from a relay. I found out about this when none of the brake lights would turn off. Since Phil's issue is only with one of them, I figured my issue was different. On the other hand, if his has multiple relays involved, perhaps only one is stuck.
  9. Steve, On our 2005 Exec (admittedly different), the 12VDC starting feed to the generator is located at the front run bay, outside under the driver’s position. The wires are connected to the outside terminals of the high-current cables, on the leading side of the bay enclosure. It’s relatively easy to identify the generator cables by following the cable run. I ended up with a more complicated solution involving a standalone battery for the generator, but that’s a different issue. I agree with the comment that accessing your wiring schematics for the front and rear run bays would help guide your search.
  10. Agreed. OTOH, I’ve felt that having my tag use the same size as my steer was the right move for me. First time we went to Alaska I heard stories about days spent waiting for an odd size tire being shipped in. I replace the steer tires every 3-4 years and rotate the used steer tires to the tag for the remainder of their lifespan. Probably costs me a bit more over time but works for me.
  11. Another vote for Centramatics. Been using the same set on all 3 axles since ~2009. Better than Dynabeads and easily handled changes in tire sizes (295 to 315 on steer and tag, 295 to 12R on drive).
  12. First, I would replace the gauge. Our 2005 Exec with the Detroit had the wrong gauge installed from Monaco (apparently DD and Cummins called for different specs), and I didn’t find that out until mine stopped moving and I ordered a replacement. They just don’t last forever. I change mine roughly every 10 years as they are relatively inexpensive. Second, I’ve heard stories of air filters collapsing internally over the years. If you change the indicator and still get a bad reading, it could just be a bad filter. Or it could be an obstruction somewhere between the outside intake and the filter. Might have to pull the filter and look inside. Third, way back when Bill D was a Donaldson dealer, he helped my determine that bumping up to the next larger size and flow, moving from P537448 to P537449 (or equivalent in other brands). Same placement of inlet and outlet just larger diameter. I had to fabricate new straps to mount it but that was pretty easy.
  13. I wanted to let this thread play out a bit before adding my 2 cents because it’s not on point for the OP. I know it’s kind of blasphemy here because that AquaJet is so well respected, but I found that I was replacing the pump every 3-5 years with half-time use (we normally travel 6 months a year), both before and after the Remco deal. Pressure switch, diaphragm, housing leaks, fitting leaks; all of the above. And it started getting quite expensive, especially to carry a spare because it might be needed at inconvenient times. I found a smaller SeaFlo pump in a marine store that was interchangeable in installation. It’s 3.5 GPM, but we’ve found that it supplies plenty of pressure and flow for us (I guess we typically don’t both use the water at the same time). At $55 initially, I bought a spare after a couple of years and the CW price had increased to $65. Still running strong after 7 years. Bottom line: if you’re a little adventurous and thrifty, there are more affordable options.
  14. I also used 1/8” copper bar stock from Amazon in the 1” width for buss bars and numerous battery terminal extensions/adapters.
  15. If the stitching that forms the “pocket” that the spline sits in has failed but is still connected at either end, there is a short-term fix you could try if you have patience and time. Mine failed in what looks to have been the same way as the OP’s. I didn’t have a helper so what I did was: Remove the metal roller cover and end caps. Extend the slide half way out. Put a bolt into one end of the roller to keep it from moving. Remove the bolts that hold the topper mechanism to the outside edge of the slide, then flip the topper up onto the roof upside down. From that angle, I was able to carefully pull the fabric back around the spline using regular pliers. It was slow and tedious work, taking about 90 minutes. I used a fabric-friendly glue that was recommended on “Old Monacoers” to recreate the “pocket” in the fabric around the spline. Any good weatherproof glue would probably work. If I had to do it today, it would probably be Gorilla Glue Clear. Once the glue set, I reversed the first few steps above to flip the topper mechanism back and reinstalled it. This temporary repair held for 2+ years until I was able to schedule time at Stone Vos/Talin to have all new toppers made and installed. I needed to do something short-term because the fabric hanging loose acted like a big funnel and directed rain water right into the top slide seal, which led to intrusion. Had Chris’s folks install a new slide seal at the same time as the new toppers.
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