guy_ethier

Well, on to another headache and PIA with my 8531-IV-DCLP furnace. Decided to remove it to try to fix it once and for all as the outer exhaust tube is rusted tighter than you know what to the inner tube coming from the heat exchanger. This tube is supposed to just slide out, but when I removed the other one from the other side of the coach, it took me a couple of weeks as well (working with Blaster and time) only to find that a build up of rust inside was the culprit. This furnace is much harder to work on than that furnace was. Been using PB Blaster for several days, my propane torch, several large wrenches and hammers, and a gear chain wrench all to no avail. Is there a better way to remove this stuck on rusted in place PIA outer exhaust tube? I even removed the heat exchanger from the furnace frame to get at it better, but it still is not budging. In the second picture you will see what the problem is why the furnace was not working. About 1/2 cup of rusted heat element and a rusted heat element. Am replacing that plus getting a new electrode unit as we speak and although I can probably still put everything back together without removing the exhaust tube, it would be nice to be able to in order to check on the electrode and heat element in the future without having to rip out the furnace every time!

So, no need to remove the shiny push cap retaining ring on the outside threaded shaft? That would be a relief. I am afraid of going too Rambo on it and damaging either the fiberglass or the arm assembly. Thanks for the advice...will try it out tomorrow

The slender metal shield covering the snap ring behind it is proving difficult to remove. Used PB Blaster rust remover and my heat gun several times and still she won't budge. Will repeat this every day 😵‍💫all this week until one of us gives up! You stated that it was all one piece and not two? Hmmmm...mebbe I am missing something here? It looks like 2 pieces and not one. And to remove the snap ring I have to remove the shiny shield?

Thanks...will try it now. I was wondering what that was as it didn't seem to want to come off, but I will endeavor (no pun intended) to work on it a bit more!

Removing wiper assembly 2006 Endeavor Well, after some serious troubleshooting and talking to the manufacturer, AM Equipment, I decided to remove the whole wiper assembly from the beast. On a previous thread I mentioned wipers were not working at all. The 12 volt power is coming into the wiring harness, so I suspect a failed motor or seized wiper shaft/arm. Removed both wipers and removed the 2 bolts holding the motor in place and it "looks" like the only thing left is to push through the threaded wiper arm ends that hold the wipers in place. I can't see any retaining clip or anything that may prevent pushing it through from the outside to the inside, but the sucker doesn't seem to want to budge. Anyone have experience removing this assembly based on the pictures below? Again, it appears that the only thing left is to push the 2 threaded ends through to the inside, but it does not want to go that way. Perhaps there is some silicone stuck inside the fiberglass reinforced wall holding it in place. Anyways, before I go Rambo on this sucker, I thought I should ask for advice. I need to remove it to properly bench test it and see if it is the motor or just seized shafts and arms.

Just started my 2006 HR Endeavor coach up again for it's monthly run down the freeway and when I tried turning on the windshield wipers, all that happened was a short and quick jerk by both wipers that moved them about 1/4", then nothing. Tried again and same thing. This continued for a few times, so I decided to problem solve. Wiper motors inside do not look like they are moving when switch is activated, and I do not hear or notice anything abnormal. Worked fine 4 weeks ago. This coach had the recall on the OEM wipers that were recalled back in '08. Faulty ground connection? I can't seem to locate a ground inside because all of the wires disappear in a coiled bundle behind the generator. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! Perhaps there is a fuse or solenoid somewhere?

Barry, Thanks again! 👍

Barry, Thanks for the pics. Approximately how much coolant did you lose when doing the CAC RE and RE? Did you let it fall into a bucket and, if so, where is the best place to place it? Also, is the CAC very heavy? One man job, or 2 like Radiator? Any other words of wisdom/precautions are much appreciated. Thanks again for the pics...as Monacomama would say: "A picture is worth a thousand words." I miss her sayings of wisdom on the IRV2 site. ~ cheers,

I assume that you must access the top part through the bedroom closet inside the coach as that would be the only way to reach the top bolts, from what I am able to see crawling underneath my '06 Endeavor (sister coach to the Diplomat)? I find just changing out the oil filter enough of a contortion for these 'ol bones!

Any chance you could post pictures long the way? That would certainly help anybody else out here who needs to change out their radiator and get access to these rear mounted ISL fans. Thanks for any pics/videos!

thanks😉

Do you have a picture/link to the bushings you got? Where they the 2 step or 3 step model (don't know if that makes any difference to the motor) I was thinking bushings as well based on my lawnmower rear drive wheel problems that always seem to end up with the rear wheel bushings.

I have heard some people say that they can be taken apart (I assume they are referring to the steps themselves) in order to clean where the arms meet the steps. Never tried that before, so am looking for some guidance. I have pressure washed the top and front of the steps before with no difference...but perhaps I needed to focus on the arms where they meet the steps?

Been reading quite a bit on entry steps, mostly Kwikee, but have not read anything regarding this topic.SCS Lippert 2 step entry steps makes a loud grounching sound both extending and retracting. 2006 Endeavour. I had read somewhere that they need cleaning, so, decided to give it a shot.After cleaning the visible outside stuff, I crawled underneath and decided to unbolt the 3 bolts holding the motor to the step gear housing. After breaking off 2 of the bolts below the frame rail and removing the motor, I drilled out the 2 broken off bolts, re threaded them for a slightly larger bolt, then attemped to re assemble. Whoops! Didn't realize that the motor housing bolt holes were not big enough and that's where she broke apart.Ordered a new one to arrive tomorrow from Amazon for $149.00 CDN (surprised the hell out of me 'cause I was sure they didn't exist anymore) and after playing around with the old motor housing found a way to enlarge, ever so slightly, the holes on the motor housing to accomodate the new bolts.Question though...will this stop the grounching noise that I hear whenever the steps go in or out? If not, is there anything else I should look for? Lippert says that it is not necessary to lubricate anything (although I did use dry Teflon lube) and I cannot see anything out of alignment or bent.Is there anywhere else I can/should clean? Any pictures of where this should happen would be welcome. Steps always seem to work...just sounds like someone is rocking a very noisy wheelchair or opening a very rusty screen door whenever it extends or retracts. Would like to do this now that the motor is out of the way.Thanks!

Ha! Tell that to the wife....been trying to move to the prairies since forever and she loves it here till the day she dies, she says. 46 years of married "bliss?"