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herbstark

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Everything posted by herbstark

  1. M My buddy always towed his boat with a two wheel drive pickup. I asked him if he ever had difficulties getting up a ramp without 4X4. His comment was I do not need no stinking 4 wheel drive. This is a picture of me pulling him and his boat out of a ramp with my 4X4 Grand Cherokee.
  2. Not only heard of them, I used them to adjust the horizontal and vertical controls to get the circle "perfectly" round and the lines straight. Later we had to generate our own color pattern to align the Red, Green and Blue lines on top of each other so the picture was not smeared and distorted.
  3. Ernie and his family do great work. You can contact him at: ernietex@yahoo.com- or 817-475-3991 If you are one Facebook, search for Ernie Ekberg Flooring, loads of pictures. Very active on Foretravel Group.
  4. Yes, I received information on the location of a resettable fuse in Front Run Bay. So I removed it from circuit so that the Level compressor would not come on. I then dumped the air, as it got nearly all the way down, I manually leveled and it has stayed level for several days now with the level compressor disabled. This indicates that we are not leaking more air at these low levels. Only seems to require level compressor to run and continue to adjust at high levels. So I may have a very small leak or not. I surely have a malfunction in the level compressor circuit. Been a few quiet nights without that compressor coming on every hour for about 5 minutes or so.
  5. Yes, a switch in line with that fuse from just above the run box in the arm rest will be a plus. Luckily I have plenty of room between us and our neighbors as that little compressor is loud.
  6. Exactly what I have been trying to do. However my level compressor does not turn off when I turn off the leveling system at the panel on the drivers side. Before I had a leak, that is how I operated. Now something has changed since the level compressor now levels the coach back near travel height, does not matter if the panel is on or off, manual or automatic. The auto reset fuse (gold color) does disable the level compressor without me crawling under coach and disconnecting power to the compressor. Thanks for the help in locating the auto reset fuse. Now I have dumped the air and the level remains where I put it with the fuse out. I probably have a leak in a bag and or a check valve or access point. I have the panel on manual to see if it stays level at this low level of air. I am not totally on the stops, just before so that coach is level. If I go all the way to the stops it will be slightly out of level to the rear as my slab is supposed to drain that way. (Doesn't but that is another story).
  7. Thanks for the replies. The level compressor runs for about 5 minutes every hour. We run the AC with the fan on manual to drown out the noise while we sleep. The coach stays perfectly level though. I assume I have a small leak somewhere that needs to be addressed. I would like to disable the level compressor, and dump the air down to the stops. Coach would be level where we have it parked now and I would get a better nights sleep until we can get the coach in for service. I will see if I can find the auto resetting fuse in my Front Run Box, thanks
  8. OK I give up. Valid Air level system. My Level compressor has started keeping my coach level whether I want it to or not. Usually if I am on a fairly level site as I am at home here in Escapees, I dump all corners and touch up the level either manually or auto and it stays ok. Lately my level compressor comes on and airs all bags back up and levels coach at a very high level. If I dump air, it comes on and airs it back up to maximum. Can someone tell me where the compressor gets power, I would prefer to disable it from the source to put a switch rather than crawl under coach to front or rear axle and start messing with air system. Thanks for any help. I guess I am too dense to figure out which electrical drawings to find air level compressor.
  9. How do you want to do this? That appears to be exactly what I need. 903-736-7591
  10. I could use the lower piece as I lost mine.....do not ask how. Anyway I think someone said they only needed the upper fixed portion. If having someone buy the lower portion could help with your cost. Let me know.
  11. My Blizzard I installed a few months ago had the above connector on the unit with a kit to install the matching connector on the coach wiring.
  12. Thanks Ray, You gave me my first laugh of the day. I will have the picture of that fat tire rolling for the rest of today at least. We have been away from our MH for a couple of weeks now and will go back with a critical eye tomorrow looking for our little East Texas critters.
  13. I have been told on this forum that connecting all three units to one CCCII will work, just as you thought daisy chain the phone cables. My thermostats are like yours only about 6 foot apart with remote sensors. I have replaced the front AC and thermostat and will add the others to the kitchen CCCII thermostat as I replace them. I love the way the new thermostat works, at least my old failing eyes can see the information on it without a flashlight.
  14. I received my new Blizzard NXT and CCCII thermostat. First the thermostat install. It was seamless. I placed it in the same place as my old 5 button, which was on an upper kitchen cabinet at the door to the bathroom from the kitchen. I was able to use a Dremel type tool to carefully enlarge the hole for the new thermostat to fit flush with the side of the cabinet. Plenty of room in this location for the wider unit. The unit itself however required some skills beyond plug and play. After removing the original Penguin, I thoroughly cleaned the surface of the roof around the 14 x 14 inch hole in the roof. It took a sander to clean all of the original sealant from the roof. I checked the sealing around the inlet to the ducts and noticed that Blizzard covered the inlet with a much larger opening for the output of the unit. So I used some duct board and duct tape to make a small plenum over the inlet to my ducts. If I had not done this, at least half of the output of the AC would have gone into the return air portion of the hole. The next issue was the mounting holes. My job probably gets 95% of the output into the duct. I feel much more output when the AC is running from the registers located in the front of the coach than the old unit had been doing. The fixed mounting nuts on the Blizzard are entirely different than the original Penguin. Not just a little off, the lateral holes were about 4 inches closer on the factory unit. So each hole had to be relocated. I used a small long 12 inch x 1/8 inch bit to go down from the top through the fixed mounting nut to the roof for a pilot hole. After enlarging the pilot hole from the inside of the coach to fit a 1/4 inch x 20 bolt, I installed new bolts that are 2.5 inches long vs the three 5 inch bolts and one all thread rod that the factory used. (By the way, the all thread rod was not tight) To do all this, the foam shroud had to be removed. Removal of the shroud was necessary also to check the dip switches on the control board. The foam shroud makes this unit much more efficient than the old Penguin. All in all I am tickled pink with the new AC. I look forward to replacing the 3rd AC (Center) unit and hooking all three up to the new thermostat. Maybe a project for this fall when it is cooler here in Texas at Escapees.
  15. Thanks to Tom for the great information and helping us to sort things out. So, another thought while we are finetuning this thread. I now have a new CCC2 thermostat for the new Blizzard NXT front AC which is on a single zone. The thermostat will handle 3 or more zones, so what is to stop me from running all 3 AC's on the the same thermostat? Some wiring will need to be relocated but is this doable?
  16. Chis, Other than the size, are the Blizzard NXT's better, not as good, or same as Penguin II's? I have plenty of room and not worried about height. I need to replace two units and seems like there maybe some NXT's available. Thanks, Herb
  17. When I called the service department of the RV service shop and explained about the board, I could almost hear the manager laughing about me thinking they might still have the board. I explained that the board was my property and they should have returned it to me. It may require a letter to the owner of the company. I bought a new class A motorhome from them, and most recently had them replace the AC in question and gave them a job to repair the rear quarter of my Dynasty. This was about a 10K job. So I am not a stranger to them.
  18. Thanks for the information. That is what I figured. No, they did not give me the board, I assume they kept it. I will be calling them now to see if they still have it.
  19. Tell me what I do not know about the new Dometic AC's. I had one installed replacing my rear (bedroom) AC on my 2007 Dynasty. They had to sell me a control board so that my old 5 button Thermostat would operate the new Rear AC in the bedroom and the existing one located in the center. If I replace the center or 3rd AC now will I need to remove the new control board and hook up or will I have find the control board that came with the new AC and put it back in? To clarify a bit, I do not know if the new Control board replaced the existing control in the new AC or was just added to the new AC. I did not receive the control board if it was replaced. Thanks for help with this.
  20. Glad to see it up and running. I did download all the files from Yahoo but have not looked at them. Great that they are available here. Thanks
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