hex_nut

I just finished cleaning the Hadley solenoid on my '06. Mine is located in the FRB below the driver. I have to periodically clean the plunger to free it up so it will continue to work. The metal plunger gets corroded in the damp air and will not retract with the solenoid coil. A little cleaning and it is as good as new. The first time this happened to me years ago, I bought a new Hadley solenoid ($50). Since then, I have learned to just clean it periodically and save the $50. Richard

I bought this one from Amazon. Expensive, but works perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Microwave-Ceramic-Compatible-Numbers-R-1850A/dp/B0BR2325Z9/ref=sr_1_1?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7miTzlz6RfotL5D9brpRPaYc9O_Dl8-xvbh2MksOcOFyLGodWBQhy3JgdBp81eqHVHc54MbfOxkppITXIq0K5Fn28m4WtgWQjBZaJDZhIcuaQOij4v0PQuA9hqF4l5tPSeRscVkpHKTwnl7TEYqZSt4a_g_fPRC3cOcXlF0sCdvezpmskbYs_bkIRf7Ym-fCmXMUlkV4XeKswVisA7RJU4BwvJgrBcGOtpcWdUWQY_M.UlgyV7WupBW1ngbZG3BQqFDzunyOxpQPJj47oRIFghU&dib_tag=se&keywords=sharp+r1850a+parts&qid=1710727281&sr=8-1

Bill A short story about why I was required to go with a compressor type refrigerator: Years ago my wife and I were looking for a dining table and chairs to replace the booth dinette in our '98 Tradewinds. So, I took my wife with me on a walk through the back lot of Colaw's RV salvage in Missouri. After a few minutes my wife asked; "Why do all these really nice high-dollar motorhomes have the big burn hole in the side?" Without thinking I responded, "That's where the propane fridge used to be before it caught fire". I realized my mistake, but it was too late. So, that is how I got to do a conversion to an electric compressor refrigerator. So, always think before you speak. Richard

Bill I will echo what Rocketman said. I went with the Samsung residential since it was much cheaper than the Fisher/Paykel (and it fit my unit). It has been 8 years and we are very happy with the results. We boondock extensively and were very pleasantly surprised with how little extra Generator time was required to compensate for the fridge (about an extra hour a day). I installed a dedicated small inverter for the fridge because I found that the large Magnum inverter was extremely wasteful of battery power. If I had it to do over today, I would choose a 12 volt DC powered fridge. They are much more efficient than using inverters to convert DC power to AC (the power lose in conversion is excessive). I have heard good things about the 12 volt DC powered units supplied by JCRefigeration. So, I recommend you do some research before you even consider replacing your unit with another expensive absorption unit. Anyone who tells you that compressor refrigerators are not compatible with boondocking needs to update their thinking. It may have been true years ago, but certainly not anymore with the improvements in inverter compressor technology. My Samsung uses the equivalent of a 75 watt light bulb. Good luck with your replacement. Richard Bill Since you have already lost the hinges on your Norcold, it would not be practical to replace just the cooling unit in it. The hinges are a common failure point and cannot be realistically repaired. I never recommend replacing just the cooling unit in an absorption fridge unless the cabinet is in pristine condition. Richard

I think this is the same part on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Acouto-Sliding-Contact-Switches-Accessories/dp/B08ZYMHTPQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1RRJ9BZ4G8EZW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.DTgSK1B8i3i2kl6fziujEH4jLLyqWx1Ub7A5d_KV6efPZbXIJCt7vX2tPkrPbEXe8mKmx0DUPBphYAI7jTjJ8emO8hCBLKdRCC1oYEiIKBcpg68N70oJqUyMvPyqsmrSMTggq-L8d8Kh2PFrfFWMHpiG3MMzLkof5uykgGLnSu7yAnzHHD3QgEy66i2aJXCvepl-DMTimOo7Pssj6TXFqGITwzjfuBaxkFWOo_eMd5w.ox0xvHhzxIJ5Dp5Xyyev0wY_f1njpHvNpONA1DZoogA&dib_tag=se&keywords=van+door+power+connector&qid=1705462248&sprefix=van+door+power+connector%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-1

I had the same type of issues. Following the troubleshooting chart is very important. In my case, I got to the part of testing the ignition coil and found my problem. A week coil will not consistently provide ignition. First I replaced the old coil ignition wires, no joy. So, I replaced the coil ($$$$). It has worked flawlessly ever since.

I don't know which brand of gauges you have in the HR. I have Beede gauges in my '06 Monaco built Beaver. The glass cover over each Beede gauge is crimped onto the plastic housing. They can be removed, but it is a tedious and difficult process to uncrimp the metal ring without damaging the plastic housing. I personally would not attempt it just to clean the glass. I have done a couple of mine but only to repair the gauge. Good luck. Richard

I "assume" your Ranger is the 4X4 version with the neutral position for the transfer case which is the only 2020 Ranger that is listed as towable. I have worn out a couple of the BX4325 tow bars (many, many miles) and have found them to be a good tow bar. I bought them both used with little prior usage (much cheaper than new). Good luck with shifting to 4-down towing. I would NEVER willingly go back to a tow dolly. Richard

I am a big fan of Eternabond tape, especially on the seams to the front and rear caps. The key to good adhesion on Eternabond is correct preparation. Thoroughly cleaning off the old "crap" is very important. Then remember that Eternabond is a pressure sensitive tape and must be firmly rolled down with a hard roller. Years ago, I actually resorted to using an angle grinder with a coarse wire brush to remove the layers of old caulk on the roof seams. It was messy and complicated the cleanup process, but it worked. Hopefully, you can get the old stuff off with a combination of heat and scraping. Good luck with your project. Richard

The Splendide combo is probably the most common. They are a bit small and leave your clothes a bit wrinkled. But, they are probably the best option available. We would not be without ours. We do not have room for a stackable, which is what we would prefer. So, you do the best with what you have. I prefer the vented version rather than the condensation dryer version. The condensation version takes longer, so I would recommend you put in the vent. Richard

I had the same problem with my C7 and now with my C9. I ordered a manual liquid transfer pump like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tryfun-Multi-Purpose-Extractor-Industrial-Evacuation/dp/B098QP4JG8/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2BG8QHZ644CO8&keywords=manual%2BOil%2BChange%2BSuction%2BPump&qid=1699385087&sprefix=manualoil%2Bchange%2Bsuction%2Bpump%2Caps%2C1349&sr=8-18&th=1 solved my problem.

Jason Do you have HWH air leveling? If so, then the air pathway thru the ride height valve is controlled by the Travel solenoid valve on the HWH six pack. It sounds like you may have a stuck Travel mode valve, or an electrically failed Travel mode solenoid. I carry a spare HWH solenoid just for this situation. All the solenoids on the six pack are the same, so having a spare will work in any position. Richard

John Yes! I have had the 40250 cover off and torqued all the connections. No change. I did manually hold the contactor closed and that did stop the chatter, so I am relatively sure the contactor is going bad. Either that or there is a problem with my 8K generator providing power, but the generator continues to run with no error codes set. I also hate to throw parts at a problem unless I am fairly sure I have determined were the problem lies. Thanks for your input. Richard

John My generator contactor starts chattering and drops connection with any load above about 15 amps. The generator continues to run with no load as the ATS goes through its timed delay process and then reconnects to generator power. This process just repeats itself as long as the load is present. It will support the battery charger (12 to 13 amp load), but not the microwave or an air conditioner. Does all that make sense? Richard

John It is the generator side contactor that has failed on mine. Are the two contactors (shore and generator) in the 40250 the same? If so, I can order the single contactor you found on Amazon and replace the failed generator one on mine (or just order two and replace them both). Thanks for your assistance. Richard