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I just finished cleaning the Hadley solenoid on my '06. Mine is located in the FRB below the driver. I have to periodically clean the plunger to free it up so it will continue to work. The metal plunger gets corroded in the damp air and will not retract with the solenoid coil. A little cleaning and it is as good as new. The first time this happened to me years ago, I bought a new Hadley solenoid ($50). Since then, I have learned to just clean it periodically and save the $50. Richard

I bought this one from Amazon. Expensive, but works perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Microwave-Ceramic-Compatible-Numbers-R-1850A/dp/B0BR2325Z9/ref=sr_1_1?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7miTzlz6RfotL5D9brpRPaYc9O_Dl8-xvbh2MksOcOFyLGodWBQhy3JgdBp81eqHVHc54MbfOxkppITXIq0K5Fn28m4WtgWQjBZaJDZhIcuaQOij4v0PQuA9hqF4l5tPSeRscVkpHKTwnl7TEYqZSt4a_g_fPRC3cOcXlF0sCdvezpmskbYs_bkIRf7Ym-fCmXMUlkV4XeKswVisA7RJU4BwvJgrBcGOtpcWdUWQY_M.UlgyV7WupBW1ngbZG3BQqFDzunyOxpQPJj47oRIFghU&dib_tag=se&keywords=sharp+r1850a+parts&qid=1710727281&sr=8-1

Bill A short story about why I was required to go with a compressor type refrigerator: Years ago my wife and I were looking for a dining table and chairs to replace the booth dinette in our '98 Tradewinds. So, I took my wife with me on a walk through the back lot of Colaw's RV salvage in Missouri. After a few minutes my wife asked; "Why do all these really nice high-dollar motorhomes have the big burn hole in the side?" Without thinking I responded, "That's where the propane fridge used to be before it caught fire". I realized my mistake, but it was too late. So, that is how I got to do a conversion to an electric compressor refrigerator. So, always think before you speak. Richard

Bill I will echo what Rocketman said. I went with the Samsung residential since it was much cheaper than the Fisher/Paykel (and it fit my unit). It has been 8 years and we are very happy with the results. We boondock extensively and were very pleasantly surprised with how little extra Generator time was required to compensate for the fridge (about an extra hour a day). I installed a dedicated small inverter for the fridge because I found that the large Magnum inverter was extremely wasteful of battery power. If I had it to do over today, I would choose a 12 volt DC powered fridge. They are much more efficient than using inverters to convert DC power to AC (the power lose in conversion is excessive). I have heard good things about the 12 volt DC powered units supplied by JCRefigeration. So, I recommend you do some research before you even consider replacing your unit with another expensive absorption unit. Anyone who tells you that compressor refrigerators are not compatible with boondocking needs to update their thinking. It may have been true years ago, but certainly not anymore with the improvements in inverter compressor technology. My Samsung uses the equivalent of a 75 watt light bulb. Good luck with your replacement. Richard Bill Since you have already lost the hinges on your Norcold, it would not be practical to replace just the cooling unit in it. The hinges are a common failure point and cannot be realistically repaired. I never recommend replacing just the cooling unit in an absorption fridge unless the cabinet is in pristine condition. Richard

I think this is the same part on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Acouto-Sliding-Contact-Switches-Accessories/dp/B08ZYMHTPQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1RRJ9BZ4G8EZW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.DTgSK1B8i3i2kl6fziujEH4jLLyqWx1Ub7A5d_KV6efPZbXIJCt7vX2tPkrPbEXe8mKmx0DUPBphYAI7jTjJ8emO8hCBLKdRCC1oYEiIKBcpg68N70oJqUyMvPyqsmrSMTggq-L8d8Kh2PFrfFWMHpiG3MMzLkof5uykgGLnSu7yAnzHHD3QgEy66i2aJXCvepl-DMTimOo7Pssj6TXFqGITwzjfuBaxkFWOo_eMd5w.ox0xvHhzxIJ5Dp5Xyyev0wY_f1njpHvNpONA1DZoogA&dib_tag=se&keywords=van+door+power+connector&qid=1705462248&sprefix=van+door+power+connector%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-1

I had the same type of issues. Following the troubleshooting chart is very important. In my case, I got to the part of testing the ignition coil and found my problem. A week coil will not consistently provide ignition. First I replaced the old coil ignition wires, no joy. So, I replaced the coil ($$$$). It has worked flawlessly ever since.

I don't know which brand of gauges you have in the HR. I have Beede gauges in my '06 Monaco built Beaver. The glass cover over each Beede gauge is crimped onto the plastic housing. They can be removed, but it is a tedious and difficult process to uncrimp the metal ring without damaging the plastic housing. I personally would not attempt it just to clean the glass. I have done a couple of mine but only to repair the gauge. Good luck. Richard

I "assume" your Ranger is the 4X4 version with the neutral position for the transfer case which is the only 2020 Ranger that is listed as towable. I have worn out a couple of the BX4325 tow bars (many, many miles) and have found them to be a good tow bar. I bought them both used with little prior usage (much cheaper than new). Good luck with shifting to 4-down towing. I would NEVER willingly go back to a tow dolly. Richard

I am a big fan of Eternabond tape, especially on the seams to the front and rear caps. The key to good adhesion on Eternabond is correct preparation. Thoroughly cleaning off the old "crap" is very important. Then remember that Eternabond is a pressure sensitive tape and must be firmly rolled down with a hard roller. Years ago, I actually resorted to using an angle grinder with a coarse wire brush to remove the layers of old caulk on the roof seams. It was messy and complicated the cleanup process, but it worked. Hopefully, you can get the old stuff off with a combination of heat and scraping. Good luck with your project. Richard

The Splendide combo is probably the most common. They are a bit small and leave your clothes a bit wrinkled. But, they are probably the best option available. We would not be without ours. We do not have room for a stackable, which is what we would prefer. So, you do the best with what you have. I prefer the vented version rather than the condensation dryer version. The condensation version takes longer, so I would recommend you put in the vent. Richard

I had the same problem with my C7 and now with my C9. I ordered a manual liquid transfer pump like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tryfun-Multi-Purpose-Extractor-Industrial-Evacuation/dp/B098QP4JG8/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2BG8QHZ644CO8&keywords=manual%2BOil%2BChange%2BSuction%2BPump&qid=1699385087&sprefix=manualoil%2Bchange%2Bsuction%2Bpump%2Caps%2C1349&sr=8-18&th=1 solved my problem.

Jason Do you have HWH air leveling? If so, then the air pathway thru the ride height valve is controlled by the Travel solenoid valve on the HWH six pack. It sounds like you may have a stuck Travel mode valve, or an electrically failed Travel mode solenoid. I carry a spare HWH solenoid just for this situation. All the solenoids on the six pack are the same, so having a spare will work in any position. Richard

John Yes! I have had the 40250 cover off and torqued all the connections. No change. I did manually hold the contactor closed and that did stop the chatter, so I am relatively sure the contactor is going bad. Either that or there is a problem with my 8K generator providing power, but the generator continues to run with no error codes set. I also hate to throw parts at a problem unless I am fairly sure I have determined were the problem lies. Thanks for your input. Richard

John My generator contactor starts chattering and drops connection with any load above about 15 amps. The generator continues to run with no load as the ATS goes through its timed delay process and then reconnects to generator power. This process just repeats itself as long as the load is present. It will support the battery charger (12 to 13 amp load), but not the microwave or an air conditioner. Does all that make sense? Richard

John It is the generator side contactor that has failed on mine. Are the two contactors (shore and generator) in the 40250 the same? If so, I can order the single contactor you found on Amazon and replace the failed generator one on mine (or just order two and replace them both). Thanks for your assistance. Richard

Richard Here is the quote from Hydronic Heating Warehouse: Operation of "Diesel" light inside coach is different than the older boxes. On heating systems with an electronic board the switch light illuminates when burner is operation.

I have that issue when I have not used the washer/dryer for a while and the P-trap in the drain becomes empty allowing the gray tank to vent back into the coach. I simply add a quart of water to the washer and run the drain cycle to replenish the water in the P-trap.

Jeff You did not specify the age of your Splendide unit. I had an older unit that exhibited those issues. In frustration I took the cabinet apart and found a set of shocks and springs that supported and inhibited movement during spinning. The shocks were totally worn out allowing the drum to bounce around and hit the insides of the cabinet. I attempted to find replacement parts to no avail. They were simply not available on that old model unit. I fabricated rubber bumpers to minimize the movement and continued to use the unit until I eventually sold that motorhome. Good luck in finding a resolution. Richard

The covers with the holes are intended for the heat-pump models with reversing switches. Without those holes for just AC.

While you are doing comparisons, look at size 265/75R22.5. They will be slightly larger in diameter then the 275/70s you have now, but not enough to matter. The slightly narrower width will be insignificant. Toyo makes the M154 in that size and it is very popular for a motorhome tire. Richard

Matt As Beaver made the transition to Monaco ownership, they standardized with 295 mm tires on most everything. However, your vintage coach may not have room for the 295s. The 295s will be almost an inch wider and about 2 inches taller. You would need to carefully verify that you have the physical room for such a larger tire. Also, realize that you would have a significant speedometer discrepancy with the larger tires. Be careful and do much research before shelling out the money for a larger set of tires. Richard p.s. Verify the rim width on the current wheels to see if they will even accept the wider tires. If memory serves me correctly, the 295s require an 8.25 inch rim width.

Jim I don't think that is a bare copper wire. That looks like a thermostat. What looks like a bare wire is actually a capillary tube that is sensing the temperature from where ever the other end of the tube is installed. You can vary the temperature of on and off with that knob. Richard

A lot depends on how long you intend to keep the motorhome. I have done motorhomes with Henry's roll on products for a short term fix (it will last a few years). For a long term fix, I would also recommend the poly-urea spray on roofing (RV Armor, FlexArmor, etc...). Roll on roofing is cheap (a few hundred bucks), but with limited warranty. The spray on poly-urea is much more expensive (about $150 per linear foot), but often has a life time warranty. I had the front of my coach sprayed with a poly-urea bra color matched to my coach to combat the rock chip problem. I have been very happy with it. Richard

When my Southwire 40250 began to act up, I did extensive research to find a realistic replacement for the contactor. I could find nothing that would fit and accomplish the objective. Everyone else I could find that had gone through the process had eventually given up and replaced the entire unit. Sadly, replacing the entire unit will result in losing communication to the Alladin unit. I have asked in many forums about the possibility of gutting the 40250 and porting the communication components over to a newer version. All of those with far more electrical engineering experience then I have responded that it "might" be possible, but was not at all realistically practical. So, the bottom line is simple: Replacing the contactor in the 40250 is not realistic unless you have the superhuman fabrication and enginering skills to build your own surge protector ATS combination. There is a company with a listing online that will evidently build you a replacement for the contactor for $2000. But, I do not consider that realistic since a replacement with a newer version is about half that. If anyone comes up with a solution to this issue, I would like to hear it. Richard

Denny I could not find any information on the VMS 120 LC. Is that a version of the discontinued VMS PC? Richard