Jobert

On our 06 Dynasty with the multiplex system, the fluorescent fixtures controlled by the multiplex are on/off and not dimming. I have 3 controlled by the multiplex and two controlled by the switch on the fixture. For us, that has worked just fine. All the little round fixtures in the ceiling have the bulbs replaced with dim-able LED inserts from eBay and they have worked fine also. They dim and hold there setting during off/on cycles. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert

It appears that aft of the 1 1/2" tube, there is a laminate header maybe 1 1/2" thick and feels like it extends back about 8-10" or so. It also appears that neither side cabinet is attached to either of these. The next post has my semi-solution at this point. Thanks for the information. It appears that there is a 1 1/2" square tube running the width of the coach just in front of the TV mount. It is not used to attach or support anything, just part of the framing. To the aft of that tube is what appears to be a 1 1/2" thick laminated header maybe 8-10" wide, going by feel not vision here. The top of the TV mounting area is screwed to this and it also seems to extend all the way to nearly both outside walls above the cupboards also. I can remove a screw to get the length for this and reinforce it further. Neither of the side cabinets seem to be attached either to the tube or the header. The plan that is formulating at this point is to reinforce the upper inside of each side cabinet with a 3/4 x 6 using Kreg jig to attach them to the plywood sides of the cabinet. Using this, I can then go up into the tube and also the header and get some real holding power to support the cabinets. At the same time I will reinforce the TV area further. The side AV cabinet above the passenger seat appears to be attached from above and the screw tips ground off, but is presently OK. I will look for a way to add some reinforcement to this also. At 135k miles, this is the first structural problems I have had to deal with other than reworking the TV area when I put in the 43" flat screen. The kicker here is I will wait till I get back up north in May to do the repair work. There I have better access to the tools needed, no sense in buying duplicates. In the mean time I will gauge screw lengths and things like that, but at least there is a plan in place. That means traveling north with the 2 x 2s in place to support the cabinets, but it is what it is. Thanks again for the information and suggestions. When started, I will post a few pictures of the work. Have a great day. Happy Trails Bert Is there any place on here with instructions for posting Pics and what format they must be in? Thanks

Thanks for the pictures and suggestions. I do have a 1 1/4" Square tube running across the front above the tv opening and the larger cabinets on each end. It does not seem however that they use the tube for support of the cabinets. I can use pipe strap as in one picture to add some extra support in the interior side but getting to the outboard side will be a challenge. It appears that there may be a multilayered plywood header just to the rear of that tube that the tv area is anchored to. The tv area does not seem to be moving, I had reinforced that well when changing the tv. I assume that the header goes all the way across and may be able to anchor the top front inside of the face-frame up into it, but not sure that will hold up the cabinet the way it should be. I can try a screw up through the padded ceiling on the inside of the narrow cabinet overhead and see if the header extends edge to edge, that would help. I know the padded ceiling on plywood will support nothing. I may be forced to wait till spring when I get back to where my tools are, and head north with 2 x 2's supporting it. I think I attached a couple of pictures of the cabinet area in ours. Thanks so much for the pictures, they are a great help. Thanks for any suggestions to come. Have a great day. Bert

I am looking to see if anyone has assembled, disassembled or had to repair their front overhead cabinets on either side of the TV. We have a center TV and have modified it to fit a 43". That part is OK. Both front cabinets on either side of the TV and the thin side ones over the door and driver seat, are coming down from the ceiling. They are currently held up with 2x2's to prevent further damage while we got to our destination. Both corners were down about 3/4" when I caught them at the end of the day. This happened on a stretch of 69 in Oklahoma heading south from Big Cabin to Checotah. I have been on some rough roads with a motorhome in the last 23 years, but this was by far the absolute worst, even at a reduced speed. Never again. I can see where the cabinets are sectioned off, the larger corner ones and the side ones. What I do not know is how they are attached from above and what will be there to reattach and reinforce them to keep this from continuing. If you have been there and done that, I sure would appreciate some info on what I may run into. Thanks in advance and have a great day. Happy Trails Bert

I think this is the one. I bought them right off the shelf in Walmart a couple of years ago. They were 1" or so by the 18" and came in daylight and soft white. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-LED-Light-Bulb-7W-15W-Equivalent-T8-T12-Replacement-Lamp-G13-Base-Non-Dimmable-Daylight-18-inches-1-Pack/836197962?athbdg=L1600&from=/search I will probably go there today or tomorrow and will check to see if they are carrying them on the shelf. I don't think I have the packaging any more, but I will check. There is no numbers on the bulb itself. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert

The ones I purchased had the following info on them. Great Value 15 watt 9 actually used 900 lumens non-dimming Daylight 5000K I used the daylight bulbs in 3 original fixtures over the sink and hallway and shower area, and used warm white in the small bathroom/sink area. They were a direct replacement with no rewiring and no ballast changes or anything like that. I just put them in and away they went. These were so much brighter and better than the originals, with no warm-up time or anything. They have been in for over 2 years of full-time use now. At the time, they were priced comparably with the regular florescent bulbs. Easily have paid for themselves in not replacing florescent bulbs often. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert

At Walmart, they have a direct replacement LED bulb for the fluorescent fixtures, as long as your ballast is good. No modification necessary. They were available in both daylight and bright white. I was replacing bulbs continuously and since replacing with the LED bulbs, have gone about 3 years so far with no replacements. Hope this may help. Happy trails, Bert

I ran into this several years ago. I had always pulled on the latch and lifted the door with one hand and in one single motion. After breaking the latch I read someone else's article on the same issue and he recommended doing the latch with one hand and lifting with the other hand. This procedure has served me well and hopefully the latch will last much longer. Hope this may help. Happy trails, Bert

I have had the same experience. Like earlier, there was a nub left to grab and got it open. An article I read shortly after that by someone that had the same problem highly suggested opening that bay door with two hands. One on the latch to unlock it and the other on the bottom of the door to lift. It suggested not using the latch with one hand to unlock then lift the door, it is heavier than most of the other ones. I have gotten in the habit of doing this all the time. Hope this may help, Happy Trails Bert.

If memory serves, that was about a 12-14' line or longer, and the air dryer is more than 10' away from the compressor, I did keep it the same length and routing, just tried made sure it couldn't rub another vibration hole in it.

We had a similar situation on ours a while back. I found that the stainless braided line from the pump to the air dryer had worn a hole in it. It only leaked when the engine was running and calling for air. It would build up at road speeds but not at idle. I raised it up and was underneath and it was where Monaco had created a loop in the hose which was to long and ran it through several metal support loops only coated with light rubber and not held tightly in place. Just the road vibration wore the hole in the line it appeared. When I replaced it I ran it through the same loops but wire tied it to prevent vibration movement. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert.

No direct link at this point, Just what arrived when I ordered a used one off eBay for a spare. On the one installed in my coach, I had covered the vent holes with strips of green scrubbies held in place by wire tires to help restrict a little of the debris from getting in. The pictures of this one do not seem to show the venting in the motor end like the earlier ones. There are others on there also. Thomas Hope this may help. Happy Trails bert

In replacing the original Thomas motor last summer, not for the first time, the one I ordered off eBay ended up being a newer style. It had a sealed bearing in the end cap and also was completely enclosed. It was not vented in the brush end of the motor. that would be what I consider a vast improvement over the older style one. So it would appear that improvements and variations are out there. Just for your information. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert

You might check with FMCA, we have Nationwide through them with a 06 dynasty 42 4slide and fulltime. I just renewed at $1500 with nearly same coverage as you and decreasing deductible. We had one claim 2 years ago for an AC damaged in a storm. It is registered in Wisconsin, not because we live there, because that's where the lender was located. We do spend the summers there. If you can use USAA, they have a special Progressive deal, but my experience with them was 1 good year then the premium goes through the roof. Hope this might help. Happy Trails Bert

Nice looking coach. Our 06 Dynasty Diamond IV has the same exterior color and also the same color scheme inside. The exterior is easy to keep clean looking and we have not had any trouble with the paint crazing on the dark color. The interior is the same color scheme with the Cherry and burgundy paisley. We have the Res fridge, although a Magnovox with the same configuration, and a washer and 220V dryer, which we love. Does that have the 8 house battery setup? We just turned over 126K miles and all has been good with only 2 major items, a warped exhaust manifold to replace and also the center section in the rear end, due to a CG that put us in a soft sand spot. She had us pulled out, but must have been to much stress trying to help the wrecker a little. That won't happen again. We shock people when we tell them how old it is. Most guess 5-6 yrs at most. Enjoy your new coach. Jobert

We have experienced the same problem, twice, so I went to a auto parts store and looked up a flexible radiator hose the length and diameter I needed. I put slip on connectors at each end of the plumbing plastic and used double hose clamps on each end. That has worked for 4 years now. You need a parts person experienced in looking up something by size and not by application. Those types are getting harder to come by with everything by application on a computer. Hope this may help and have a great day. Happy trails Bert

I have been using the Walmart replacement LED tubes for about 2 years now, right out of the box into the fixture with no problems at all. I did not remove the ballast or anything else. I have them in 5 fixtures, one is switched at the light and the others go through the multiplex individually. A couple are daylight and a couple are warm white light. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert

Another vote for the Tow Defender, but I modified ours to go underneath the tow bar similar to Ivan's picture above. I do use the middle bar, however. I found that above the tow bar, it left about 1/2 of the front nose exposed to road debris. We sometimes tow a 13 Challenger R/T and I wanted as much protection as possible for the front of it. Happy Trails Bert

In lieu of a replacement in a timely manner, one can take some strong magnets and attach them to the reversing valve where the solenoid is located and wire tie them in place to hold open the valve. This would be a temp fix till you can locate or get a replacement coil. I was told to use this method while waiting on a replacement several years ago. It will work on AC only and not heat. Hope this may help, Happy Trails Bert

Ended listing 10-21-2020, getting ready to go South, still have the bracket would consider an offer. I have a Roadmaster Base Plate for a Chev Malibu 2014-2015 listed on ebay for sale. It is new in the box. It is the model that does not use the crossbar and quick disconnects. The towbar hooks directly to the removable tabs. When not towing and tabs removed, it is pretty well hidden. It is for the Malibu with the 2.0 Turbo or the 2.5L engines. It will not work on a Malibu with active air shutters. I would like to sell this in the next three weeks before we leave. Make me an offer here or on ebay, whichever you prefer. the shipping will be by UPS and the amount listed is about 1/2 of the expected shipping cost, I will pay the rest. This is brand new. The box may have to be opened to patch a couple of holes before shipping. Thanks for looking and have a great day. ebay link

On our 06, I have needed to replace a couple of the swivel T's. there are several of these front and back and it seems the o-ring in the swivel T part must dry out over the years, Just another place to check. Hope this may help. Happy Trails HH