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Everything posted by Hypoxia

  1. I discovered a broken plastic roller on the aft X Slide in the bedroom. I can replace that chain fairly easy as it has good access but what are the odds of other rollers in the other chains breaking in the near future? I haven't ever had an RV in a repair shop in over 35 years but wonder if it should go to HWH next summer. They could replace all 4 chains and rebuild the hydraulic cylinders in one fell swoop. Grrr, it's going to fester in my head until I can't stand it and just go out and remove the chain. That's what always happens. It seems like a new chain link and roller should be available.
  2. I had them painted in Mexico. Mine are Girard aluminum covers.
  3. Possibly dryer and expansion valve UAC Parts
  4. I just repaired a frayed/broken string on the front X-slideout curtain. It is an easy job, nothing like day/night shades. The curtain strings are attached to bungee cords so it was just a matter of replacing the string and using a small piece of 1/4" aluminum tubing to crimp them together. Here are some photos to help the next repairman. The .pdf file attached shows a photo of the curtain in place as well as the Monaco dimensions and part number. Slideout Curtain.pdf
  5. HWH says no lubrication needed on the X-Slide mechanism. Does anyone have experience with any maintenance they think is needed while I have access to them. I'm big on preventative maintenance. The chain looks good with a cursory inspection.
  6. I also find it annoying, I carry the fob mainly for the bay doors. It isn't too inconvenient to use the outside keypad when on that side of the coach but I do find it silly to have to use the bedroom switch to unlock or lock everything. I have adapted and unlock the doors when I get out of bed. I guess I could put the spare fob near the cockpit to alleviate my frustration
  7. I thought the '08 Dynasty had the Wiper Technology parts. Wiper Technologies https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/wiper-motor-monaco-kit-09307255-replacement-550878.html#post5884467
  8. Rickadoo is right about needing gauges which will also require putting at least a low side saddle port. Then to re-charge you need a vacuum pump and refrigerant, probably R22. If your local auto parts store has loaner tools they may have those but I don't know if a small can of R22 is available. Perhaps a local A/C repair guy would charge it. Before I went down that path I would want to check the values of the capacitors with a meter and the PTCR. If they are not within tolerance you will end up chasing your tail.
  9. I'm not following that logic. The compressor doesn't do anything different in heat or cool. The high side is always the high side. Are you charging it after the reversing valve? I can see that working but never considered it before.
  10. They are crap and should be re-engineered. I have blown two or three of them. Not a pretty sight. Thetford should be notified and they will honor a 12 month warranty.
  11. Compressors rarely fail. Check the capacitors and PTCR. Unless the capacitor is bulging or leaking a meter is necessary. The PTCR usually stinks of burnt electrical when bad and frequently is physically disintegrated. It is normally on the capacitor terminal.
  12. There is a DOT number on the lower corner of the glass, mine is on the drivers side. That is what is needed. Mine was replaced with a Coach Glass windshield DOT 623 AS1 M60
  13. What caused the chain failure? I'm getting some creaking with both slides with X Slides. I figure they need lube although HWH manual says no need for lubrication.
  14. I raise the tag frequently when on soft ground and when I need a tight turn radius. It takes a few minutes to come up and for the drive air bags to adjust height so I don't do it on the fly. On soft ground the tag has to be raised so the drives don't spin. It also allows more wood to be added for levelling.
  15. I was camping on a ranch south of Walden CO on Tuesday with no cellular service so I missed your post. I'm glad you found the plug though. There are two camps on the repair; One camp says get a new electronic controller. The other camp says put in a wax valve. The wax valve camp is very vocal as you have seen and I am sure they will pipe in again. And again. I am in the camp that would keep the electronic controller If I could get one. If you wish to pursue the electronic controller get the part number off of that controller & I can help you with the replacement part number.
  16. I knew there were flying termites in California where they tent an entire house to fumigate them. Perhaps they figure there is no other good way to treat a motorhome for subterranean. Subterranean termites are common throughout the South and they start out needing ground contact but can live in a log or a house for a long time without ground contact. I have seen subterranean termites living in a log that has not had ground contact for a year. Fipronil is what I use to treat them which comes in many brand termiticides. Permethrin is also used and I cannot think of a good way to treat a motorhome with either one.
  17. The sink light is a Liteco model 176. The porch light is a Thin-Lite model 162A. Both are 12 volt fixtures
  18. Works on my 12 volt lights so far. They are nice. Thanks Tom for finding the GE LED Tubes, I put two of the 12" ones in the sink light and two in the porch light.
  19. As Tim says, you have an undetermined problem. Did you figure out if you have the electronic fan control or wax valve? Cummins Insite will not show that which leads me to believe Kenworth didn't really do any real troubleshooting. You should be able to run over any pass in Colorado without overheating.
  20. As you can see by Terry's post, there can be a variety of causes. The Switch pad has its board but there are other MUX (Multiplex) boards that would be more likely. As a "for instance", I had galley lights that would turn on or off randomly. I eventually realized it only happened when the bedroom door was closed. There is a door switch to prevent the slide from being retracted with the door closed (crushing it). The module that controlled that was above the windshield and had a bad component. I was able to simply move the wire to another terminal and change the DIP switch for that terminal. I would have never figured it out and would be currently residing in an Insane Asylum but for Jason (Rev Group Coburg) figuring it out and sending me the wiring diagram page that is not in the book. That was prior to them divorcing the pre-bankruptcy owners. Do you have a bunch of MUX boards in the rear closet or bath?
  21. Is your lighting is switched by the Intellitec Multiplex System or by normal wall switches?
  22. Intellitec board may be going bad. Fairly common in my experience.
  23. If it is the electronic Sauer Danfoss control, Unplug the fan control & it should go to high speed continuously. If the fan control module fails it reverts to high speed.
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