Hypoxia

I would start by cleaning all of the battery, battery to switch and switch to house bulkhead connections.  Next I would clean all grounds to the chassis.  The front run bay bulkhead connections as well as the rear run bay.  Good time to clean the generator ground also.  They have to be disassembled to clean them.

The front run bay generally is not watertight and if you remove those boards (assuming non-Kongsburg) you will probably find a lot of corrosion on the back of them and on the many bus bars that connect them together.  I had intermittent problems and then completely lost house power in Mexico due to FRB corrosion.

I did a writeup along with photos of changing a 2007 Signature air springs several years ago.  Google "S Series Air Bag AKA Air Spring Replacement

I decided to make a document for reference for this forum as well as for my records, see attachment.

S Series Air Bag AKA Air Spring Replacement.docx

2007 Monaco Signature Noble III Air Springs

All Air Springs on the coach are the same regardless of position, Steer, Drive, Tag

Steer Axle: Four Air Springs Conti Tech 99-12P 730 (AS8897) (64664)

Removal:  

1 ¼” wrench & Large Crescent - remove air nut first

1 1/8” Socket & Flex ratchet – remove fitting (fitting will not fit through the 1 1/8” hole)

¾” Socket – remove two upper and two lower nuts last & remove bag

Drill hole to at least 1 ¼” and fitting won’t have to be removed next time

Firestone W01-358-8897 with 3/4" inlet, W01-358-9376 with 1/4' inlet, Triangle AS-8730, TRP AS88970

9 9-12 P 730

Hockydiesel had some great tips such as breaking the air fitting off instead of unscrewing it, etc.

It's not a technical job but takes a variety of wrenches, ratchets and impact wrenches along with some strength and patience.

2 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I’ve been banned “ForEver” on IRV2… criticized a Mod during Covid because his signature was political after he said I’d been political…. No sense of humor. Did me a favor as I was spending too much time on there.

I wondered where you went.  There are many that you helped and many that won't get help now that you're gone.   Sounds like Twitter oversight before Elon.

National Hardware Door Latch

That would be a great project for a young guy with lots of energy and a tech background if the bones were sound.  Install a new updated multiplexing system or just hardwire it.  The Signature is a machine that would be worthy of the effort for the salvage value.

Here's the cable removed from its housing.  The window is attached to the bracket at the end.

I'll make a short video of the operation

The black plastic tube is what the rod travels in

20 hours ago, Daryl Ammons said:

Has anyone had experience working on the power window?  Mine goes down fine but when it is coming up the window seems to shift in the frame some which causes it to bind up and stop.  I can grab the top of the window and shift it slightly rearward and it will work.  It seems like maybe the lower part of the frame may be loose allowing the window to shift some on it's way up.  I pulled off the panel below the window and looked but there is a clear plastic barrier preventing me from getting to the lower track so I did not go any further. 

I have tried track lube and it will help temporarily but then it happens again usually at the most inconvenient time like at a toll booth.

 Daryl

Is the Dynasty window the same as the 2007 Signature?  Photo attached. 

If so:

Power Window assembly originally manufactured by Atwood, that division was sold to:

 Challenger Door

1205 E Lincoln St

Nappanee, IN 46550

Phone 574-773-0470

challengerdoor.com

3300 Power Window Regulator Assembly Part Number 2-250989

12/2017 Price was $281.00 plus $25 Shipping Total $306.00

Power Window Beltline Weatherstrip.pdf

Hose Reel Thread

19 hours ago, nvrtoofast said:

My house bank of Lead acid batteries finally bit the dust. I've been searching for information on replacements and have seen a bit too much information. I think I'm going to limit my decision to cost. I don't really want to pay near $500 per battery.

I have a 2006 Camelot. It has 12v Lead Acid now. I would prefer to move to AGM but like I mentioned cost is a decision point.

I'm looking for your input on best band for value and place to buy. For the coach batteries I have a pair of 12V Napa truck batteries that I picked up on the road. They work for the coach.

Thoughts?

My experience with flooded batteries; if I spray battery sealer on all terminals where they penetrate the battery case and use a watering system they last a long time and have no corrosion.  The watering system makes it a simple and easy task to keep the water level up.  Flooded batteries will take abuse and when they fail they are relatively inexpensive.

Current coach has eight 8D Lifeline AGM's of which two have had to be replaced within 3 or 4 years.  I have had Lifeline experiences with other RV's and have not been impressed.  I had a few sitting around the shop which went bad and surprised me with quite a bit of corrosion on the terminals.

FWIW, Batteries Plus has a promotions page  https://www.batteriesplus.com/promotions?tab=coupons

Parts Breakdown Powerslide II.pdf Power Superslide II Parts Diagram.pdf Power SuperSlide II Pictures.pdf Programming Superslide II Remote.pdf Service Training Guide Superslide II.pdf

That lever is the release, be careful to not have any wiring in it's path.  If it does not release it may be the lock release motor binding.  I had to remove it several times due to the binding.

Troubleshoot Superslide Manual Operation.pdf

Ramco has factory seconds available at half price.  Normally any blemish is not visible.  I bought a 13" arm to replace the 5" so I could put the mirror in front & visible out the windshield.  I couldn't find the blemish. Ramco Clearance

Your Dynasty should have two 6-packs and one 4 pack with a tag axle.  That's 16 total.  The solenoid coil is 12 VDC and I used Buna 019 "O" rings.

Harry was invaluable, once again!  The part number he suggested has the proper nipple, I ordered a bunch of KIP SKPA38 from Kleen-Rite.  I removed the nipple with my fingernails and used a punch to drive out the old brittle nipples.  I replaced all 12 in a couple of hours.  The "O" ring is size 019 and the solenoid coil is HydraForce 4301512.

Penetrating fluid helps.

Might be this one UAC RD-6166C

UAC Receiver Dryers

Vito, We are all using the same parts with the Valid system.  The basic problems you run into once you enter the manifold are dirt on the valve, that rubbery sealing surface leaking, contamination hindering valve movement or bad electrical coils.  Coils are easily available and dirt can be cleaned but the rubbery surface that contacts the seat eventually leaks,  KIP makes these parts for Valid and possibly makes rebuild kits.  It would be nice if we could find that part number.  A typical rebuild kit is $10-$20 vs a lot.  Everyone who has that system would benefit by replacing all of those valve seats that are seeping just a little.  I have 12 valves, not a big deal, but if we can find a repair kit it would help many.

Newell has the best phone customer service I have seen, very similar to the original Monaco support, but I already know what they will say about this.

Has anyone found a source other than Valid for the KIP Manufacturing valve 6X1053 (Y001916) or the rebuild kit for the valve.  These are in the 6 Pack and 4 Pack valves.  KIP makes some rebuild kits but I haven't had success finding these.

Here are some Lift Pump files I found from the 2003 ISC 8.3 coach I had.

Fuel_Transfer_Pump_Install.pdf Lift Pump Parts Breakdown.pdf Lift Pump Testing.docx

Here are lift pump photos

It's been a while since I changed an ISC lift pump.  I thought the lift pump fed directly into the injector pump and all filtering was prior to the lift pump.  You can test the lift pump pressure on top of the pump, there is a plug which you remove which is metric.  I have a metric straight thread (10mm-1.00 I think) to 1/8" NPT adapter I use so I can put a pressure gauge on it.  I also believe the pressure should be 10 PSI at the pump.  I also thought the lift pump had to be removed to get access to the screws that tighten the gasket.  I have a spare ISX lift pump, I'll have to look at it to refresh my memory.  Lift pumps can leak from the gasket or through the electric wiring hole.

Cummins Quickserve will have the procedure for testing the pump.

Adapter kit metric to NPT.

Equus Adapter Kit

Glad to hear the resolution and can't wait to hear your dealer thread.

Are you going to Kino this winter?  How's the smart wheel working?

I have had two new levelling valves that intermittently raised the coach all the way up although they were off brand.  I thought perhaps they were manufactured in the same batch since they were from the same FleetPride and the second valve was a warranty exchange for the first one.  The third valve (Hadley 450) cured the problem.

I would think it would be a warranty repair if they just changed it.  It's not likely to fix itself and you will end up an another shop for the same problem down the road.