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    Dynasty Princess 42
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  1. Cousin Eddie, slide is all the way in at top locks are functioning slides are hydraulic but yes coach has full air.
  2. Anyone, 2003 Dynasty 42’ princess. Living room slide won’t fully retract on bottom. Lacks 3/4” front & back. Is the adjustment the rods along the tubes below the slide OR… does anyone recommend anyone close to Arkansas (Northern area)? thanks, Kurt
  3. Vanwill52 or jacwjames, With this upgrade… it’s not going to change the charging functions of the Xantrex RG7 invertor/charger will it? There is no concern of boiling batteries is there? Just making sure since it “connects itself” when a charge source is present. You’ve both left your solar panel hooked up as factory also? i’ve already bought the unit, just waiting to get home and prepare for install. thanks, Mhrookie
  4. Anyone paint their Girard awning plastic cover? Mines experiencing UV deterioration and paint is peeling. thanks, Kurt
  5. Steven P, That’s part 2 of my issue… No Aladdin coach (thankfully) BUT Trip Tek system gets same signal as gauge and it always says full. Oh well, new parts coming will fix me up. Thanks, Kurt
  6. I don’t boondock enough to justify lithium. Looking for AGM so compartment stays cleaner vs the lead acid maintenance. I’d have to modify my compartment to add any batteries. Then a larger inverter/charger is required. I don’t boondock enough to need the inverter update either…. I just want to make sure I don’t install something that will overload and cause a fire or meltdown). Sticking with stock sometimes is simpler I guess.
  7. All, My manual calls for 4 6v 450 AH U2200 batteries. Here’s the question… would buying higher capacity batteries benefit or cause problems? Looking to upgrade to AGM batteries and noticed 3 sizes in the lifeline series. Coach is all stock, no adds of solar panels. Will the larger size batteries stress the charger and cause me problems? I still have to origininal mod sine inverter/charger 2012 unit. this is in my 2003 Dynasty 42’ coach.
  8. Windsorbill06…. Thanks for your reply. I figured that’s how the BF worked. Back to troubleshooting. Happy trails. Kurt
  9. All, if dash gauges start to fail (trans temp & fuel), buying a scan gauge D or the Blue Fire system won’t fix that issue will it? How does the 6 or 9 pin read fuel levels when a separate sender provides that information? thanks, Kurt
  10. Your not working on your motorhome, your working in the generator… gotta use the gray area wherever you can. kidding aside.. your sensor is packed off with calcium type build up. what I did. buy a right angle drill adapter for a drill (mine was 12” long) buy a stubby drill bit the size of the sensor hole. I’m not home to remember the name or size but I got it at Home Depot in the drill isle. It’s not a “Chuck” type of bit. It’s a hex type about 1.5” to 2” long is all. I’m pretty sure they are counter sink type of hex bit. It was a “Ryobi speed load bit). Just can’t remember the size… I bought 2 of them. Take the part you got removed and use it for size up. remove t-stat from top of engine & remove coolant below sensor hole. Place rag below sensor hole. two people - 1 to run the drill & 1 to run right angle head through sensor mounting hole. it takes a lot longer to prep the whole thing than it will to drill. You are only drilling brass & the calcium. Hope this helps & good luck!
  11. Not to hijack the post… but, how can I tell what my inverter will power up? I have the 2012 model and only run the fridge and micro wave… what else does/can it run?
  12. Park pressure isn’t the issue… I’ll have to mess with the hose connection. thanks.
  13. I cannot remember the name but I have the silver hose reel used for water. I am having an issue getting the hose clamps to prevent leaks. Can’t get the hose to seal on the copper connection. Using radiator clamps (3). Anyone got a better clamp? good day, Kurt
  14. All, Can anyone point me to where I can find a replacement switch for the from hyd slide? It’s a wider black rocker switch style. thanks, Kurt
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