MHRookie

I cannot tell for certain but it sure appears you will need to remove the reducer before bag removal. I don’t see a cutout in the top mount the fitting will fit thru.

Sent you a PM but one other note. I would not hesitate getting a replacement ALT from AJ’s electric under $500 last I checked.

I second looking at this if/when you need to replace existing parts. Installing the bluesea unit also allows you to change to a more affordable alternator when/if your Leece Neville fails (to a 28si alternator).

The only item I found available is a “new chip” on eBay. It says it’s installed on a RC7 remote to make it a RC7gs remote…$200.

You’ll need the manual for how to access the remote menus. Quite possible the settings need redone. I’d do as Tom says and perform a “hard restart” BUT read manual because it says when connecting battery cables, to do it in order. ALSO, label the negative cables (chassis & batt) accordingly so you don’t cross them up when reconnecting. One confusing thing, you say your “Batt Full” light is green & on steady…. The only green light on the remote is “inverter”, the others are only amber or red. The rc7 does have an equalizing option but has to be turned on manually by pressing the right arrow button for 8 seconds and same button & duration to cancel. Then charge will return to absorb for a short period and then float. Hope the hard start fixes the issue.

Steven, Word on the street is read internet articles by this guy… Mark Quasius. He’s supposed to be the Tiffin guru. The only added issue I found besides yours was a 2008 issue with the windshield popping out du to chassis flex (the article didn’t state if it was the power glide or Freightliner chassis though). Again, ask the pre ious owners about that. Other than that, it looks like a solid coach from choice. Good luck!

I did find some other info about the throttle position sensor. If it’s not returning or showing full release, it will keep the Jake brake from engaging. You might look into resetting it, not sure on the type you have.

Sorry, didn’t notice the earlier post of no foot switch. The only way I know how to test while stationary is by the high idle. Does your navigator have that feature using the cruise control buttons (make sure engine temp is above 86 deg before activating high idle). aside from that, your going to have to call Holiday Rambler to get the wiring schematics I’m afraid.

I need to verify…. Does your Jake brake system have role foot pedal? I just went through some similar issues and it ended up being the micro switch inside the pedal. To test… start coach & let run a bit then….turn on cruise, and select “set” - to enable high idle…. Let it run a min then hit the Jake pedal… it should turn high idle off. See how long the delay is (if any). if it continually turns idle off quickly, then that’s not the issue..

Happycarz, From your picture, you are using one 15 amp fused wire to feed power to both high & low relays… correct? Thank you, Kurt

NWrvsupply is another source for coils.

Richard, Didn’t know if you saw this or not. Not real definitive but it’s all I could find for manifold part numbers. Just scroll towards bottom of page to see breakouts. I only found one “manifold” page and all the coils or valve kits are the same numbers… (Forgot if I can post links to web pages… so I left off)…I googled HWH parts list and found a live page with links. then selected “air control units”. I never did see a breakdown of specific model units.

What device are you using to retrieve codes?

Here is the condition of my VIP SM209 board. I didn’t take off the plugs because there is no discoloration on them or the board. the discoloration on the back lines up with the furthest left 25amp relay. It’s not mounted as flush as the others are. Anyone with solder & motherboard experience weigh in…. Does this warrant replacement or can it be repaired? Thanks, Kurt

Tom, Just a report…. No joy, all diodes tested good. Digging in all the spaghetti was a little nerve racking but not too bad. Tomorrow I am going to send you a picture of my VIP control board and see if you think the soldering & a slight discoloration may warrant replacement or looks alright. I’ve read a lot of CIP threads and there isn’t really a silver bullet fix, but I think I may tackle requiring all the harness from the Monaco plug to the control board. Just need to figure out how to tackle larger wire but keeping the same pin size on the VIP end. thanks & if you can think of another possible troubleshoot item…shoot away. Kurt