isptbart

Likewise, I'm looking for a lower ladder section which is a hinge type of swing down from the upper section, if anyone has one for sale. Send pics & possible measurements for comparison & I will respond back regardless. Thanks! Bart from Virginia

I have a 2007 HR 42PLQ with 400 ISL & thought I needed more heat disipation. I cut openings in both my rear engine compartment doors & installed 4 stainless steel louvers. Note: I also installed 4 louvered vents in the sold area above the less sturdy doors as well. I also tow a heavy GMC 2500HD diesel truck, & fully loaded. The louvers do seem to help with the heat disipation.

Michael - hey thanks for the clarification! Now I have to get started on making the spacers! Thanks! Bart from VA

Mike - a GREAT write up & I really appreciated the photos & advice! I'm very envious of your having the shop space & time to take on such necessary projects! Keep the write ups coming! Many Thanks! Bart from VA

I had the same problem with opening the .helc file. Many thanks for converting for us! Michael - reading your response, you state you made 8ea. So do you use 1 per airbag? I have 10 airbags, so want to ensure I make the proper amount? Thanks! Bart from VA

Yes! Great suggestion as I goy mine rebuilt to a higher amperage & with a brand new pully installed. When I had to replace my alternator while on the road was a lack of a pully puller in my rig. I emded up going to two different parst stoes until I could borrow one to remove the old pully for an install on my new alternator. Yes! Great suggestion, as I got mine rebuilt to a higher amperage & with a brand new pully installed. When I had to replace my alternator while on the road, only problem was a lack of a pully puller in my rig. I ended up going to two different parts stoes, until I could borrow one to remove the old pully for an install on my new alternator. Took more time to run around & get the old pulley off than to physically change out the alternator! Good Luck!

I just had my back-up Leese Nelvell 160amp alternator, rebuilt to 210amp locally for $250 here in Fredericksburg, VA. PM me at I Track M @ verizon.net (w/o any spaces if you would like more info) Bart from VA

I totally agree! Tha is what I was trying to express but my experience on at least 4 vehicles was not consistent with a particular after market source & when comparing, lots of variable because I don't park & drive them the same way at the same time!

Hey Grey Goose - Monaco typically used an existing manufacturers headlight design for their installations, rather than designing their own propriety headlight. Much easier for them/us to replace after the fact from a manufactors point of view. Not sure if Monico put in an actual true OEM headlight or an aftermarket headlight for that particular manufacturer? Regardless, headlights once being made with the plastic lens, just don't last like the old style glass lens headlights. I needed to replace the headlights in my wife's 2013 Town & Country last year because of clouding. I replaced my RV headlights about 3 years ago & they are beginning to slightly turn or clear coat flaking to some degree. Bart from VA

Gweedo - Yeah, I agree! Kinda like just having my old 160amp alternator rebuilt to a 210amp (as my present replacement), so I can have it as a back-up! When I have done that in the past with several different parts - I don't think I ever had to re-use them :>) Cheap insurance!

wamcneal - Yeah, I understand what you are saying. It's a gamble regardless. Thanks for your comments!

wamcneil - with my limited options at the time (as described in my update to everyone), all I can hope for is my bandaid approach decision is successful. Time will tell.

Now that my manifold was properly removed & cleaned, with new bolts w/anti-seize, it would be a fairly easy swap for the gaskets - except the manifold is warped at port #3. I would have a chance for an easier removal & swap for a new replacement manifold or possible milling, if necessary? Bart from VA

Yeah, we looked & unfortunately, no machine shops are still open in our area. To have it sent out of town, machined & returned would tie up their service bay for too long. So my choices were to either put on new standard gaskets on a warped manifold, try the Remflex gaskets or try to purchase another manifold either OEM or aftermarket again with a couple of more days wait. Gaskets installed & works fine - only a longer service term will see if it works long term as designed? Upside - with new bolts & anti-seize should the gaskets fail in a reasonable future period of time, I should have no problem getting them out w/o breaking a bolt! Time will tell.

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - Update! All - with the cold/wet weather here in VA & my concern I might break exhaust manifold bolt(s), I decided to have a local shop take on the task. Local rates were from $125/hr to $230/hr. Estimates started at approx. $850 plus parts to a Cummins worse case scenario estimate replacing the manifold as well at $7,500! I took a $159/hr labor rate at a shop I have frequently used in the past & they worked me right in. In preparation for the bolt removal task, I heated up the engine, shut it down & sprayed with PB Blaster 6 times before taking it to the shop. The tech successfully removed all 12 bolts w/o braking, but stated he couldn't see any penetrate weepage on the threads? So, using penetration may not have been necessary in my case? Note: the stated bolt torque is only at 40#. I did have a slight manifold warp at port #3 at about .030". Ports 3 & 4 had the gasket leaks & all others were OK. Other than a new set of OEM manifolds at approx. $800, we could not find replacement manifolds with a quick delivery. I decided to follow a posted recommendation of using the Remflex compression gaskets good to about .065". They are supposed to be compressed at about 50% & torqued at only 20-24#'s. Keeping my fingers crossed the Remflex gaskets will hold up long term, in lieu of replacing the exhaust manifold. I couldn't find S/S studs as an alternate & had to wait overnight for OEM exhaust bolts, so I also authorized adjusting the valves at 114,000 miles to utilize the available down time. About 4 hours for the valve adjustment & a $75 valve gasket. The tech said it was a good call, as they were a little loose & could use adjustment. Needed several odds & ends gaskets & parts for the R&R of the turbo. No coolant lost or replaced. Tech checked for ECM updates (none found) & made a copy of my ECM parameters on a flash drive for my records. In & out in 2 days. That said, my total bill came to about $2750. Perhaps a little high, but more than I was willing to take on working outside w/o a shelter. Now having my old OEM 160 amp rebuilt locally, kicking it up to the 210 amp rated alternator I replaced 3 -4 years ago so I can have one as a quick back-up for $250 plus he is adding the proper pulley for a relatively easy swap if necessary. Just ordered a replacement Voyager monitor, so I can monitor cameras & my Aladdin system for about $500. Driving old school w/o cameras & only with dash gauges is not too comfortable for me. When it rains it pours sometimes on RV related projects. Thanks to all recommendations & suggestions! Bart from VA 2007 HR 42PLQ Scepter w/a GMC 2500HD truck in tow