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jad050

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Everything posted by jad050

  1. Wow, my part number is 1539-10399-19... your picture is 1539-10233-19... pretty d*** close, -19 (match) is likely rev number and connectors match my pictures.. I can find your part number on web for sale at rvsupply (2 in surplus stock, but pricey)). Nothing with my part number... Will do a bit of probing, but might just buy board to keep this OEM (and this seems like critical part), and fix other board (I have lab techs that can do this wearing a blindfold). If it is really loud, might add a momentary switch to silence alarm while I am sitting in drivers seat... otherwise patch in new "annunciator"... Segue: how did you fined this? I am the guy folks come to to ask how things work/ repair/etc... I can usually find the needed webpage with a few details, like naming that tune with 3 notes... I found nothing last night, was thinking of contacting Medallion today... I watched Pete Townsend on Tonight show last night talking about Broadway show "Tommy".. Line in my head is "I just handed my pinball crown to him!" Thanks... JimD Thanks, I want something loud an annoying... I this thing is beeping I want to not be able to ignore it...
  2. Wow, that was easy enough, that cover off you have great access behind dash... first thing I saw was a wire bundle terminated with a molex connector hanging in air marked "alarm mudule" thought I found it... looked a bit more and cam up with more hanging connectors, realized this is likely a "one size fits all" wiring harness..and some.models have an alarm feature.. I found the back of Medallion display panel with buzzer... with the cover off I could hear the buzzer when key was turned on and stayed on until air was >60psi... but not very loud!!! With dash cover on knowing the sound I can almost hear it if I lean in. My 2005 knight I could here Low air alarm in back of coach with engine running... need to go back with some connector probes, hopefully the alarm is a unique feed to Medallion panel. There are not that many wires for the number of lights on that panel... and one connector feed the lid display... I need a much louder alarm for this.. Will update again once I isolate what feeds buzzer. Going to my local electronics store and see what they have. I got lots of old PC beepers, but I want louder... JimD
  3. This is what I put in my 2005 monaco knight... my pivot pins were almost worn to failure... https://www.ebay.com/itm/233389461939?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ryyYVEdVRsG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  4. Thanks for all the info and suggestions. I'm traveling right now, will be back to RV in a couple of days.... One last question, does the top of dash pop off, there are no screw holding a access plate like my last rv. Thanks, JD
  5. Yes, I get digital display of Low pressure(s).. is this pointing me to 'alarm'? Is this a replaceable part or am I looking for a pcb board?
  6. I have a fairly new to me 2012 Ambassador. My previous coach 2005 Knight would beep alarm in neutral with parking brake not set and foot not on brake pedal. The 2012 doesn't do that. When I start the beast up and air pressure is low, the 2005 would beep until it aired up to 60+psi, new coach doesn't do that... Was this feature removed? I seem to recall when I took my class B driving test, we did a safety inspection of air brakes which include alarms for low pressure. I looked around a bit, I notice I don't have a Nasson switch at base of parking brake... Anyone with 2012 ambassador or knight confirm how this should work... Personally, I would prefer alarms like I had in 2005 Thanks... Jim D 2012 Holiday Ambassador
  7. Scotty, Vito, interesting, I'll take a look... Don't relish running a wire from back to front of coach... I am going to patch in a relay to see if my theory works.... If repair gets bigger, I will look hard that the links you provided ... Thanks!!!
  8. Don't know how long this has not been working, we don't have any big coach loads while driving, I have noticed that when I do plug in after driving the coach batteries are charging at a very high rate... Finally realized the are not charging via the alternator... I have an IRD isolator delay ( Intellitec p/n/ 00-00629-120), mounter in the circuit/fuse board in drivers side front bay. 3 wires attach this to the board ignition source:blue, relay coil:red, ground: black... Per the service manual for part, when the voltage on ignition line is above 13.5 volts for more than 20 seconds the relay red wire will be activated... That never happens for me... After little metering here is what I believe my issue is: The ignition wire only get to 13.1 volts, I check the chassis power stud on board and voltage is 14.2 volts. It appears my ignition switched voltage has a loss some where (had similar issue with headlight voltage)... So isolator relay is not switch on to activate the relay in batter compartment.. Hs anyone seen this issue? I have 2 solution in mind.... A) add a simple relay that switches chassis power to isolator delay, triggered by ignition feed, thereby supplying 14+ volts when engine is running, which should trigger the isolator relay... I have also read about chassis batteries not charging while on shore/generator power... A little research I found monaco did make a upgrade to the ird to make it a bird.. unfortunately that is no longer available.... So thinking a second solution B) Add intellitec B.I.R.D. diesel 2 (p/n 00-00839-000), as well as simple relay above to get full chassis voltage to isolator delay. by adding the coach battery input to this device I will have a full function bird... The generator pin is not needed since this function is downstream on relay line (see below) One thing I did discover in researching this is the FRB board also has a relay right below the ird. This deactivates the relay line when the generator is running, preventing any conflict between who is commanding the charging. interesting to note if this relay is failing and not switching off isolator relay, can cause the alternator warning light to flicker due to overcharge detection... Jim D 2005 Monaco Knight 38PST
  9. StevenP, bought my slide toppers 3 years ago from Stone Vos (aka Talin), very detail measurement instructions to get max width...
  10. SteveP, That's what I am thinking, eternabond tape at edge... My leak appears to be on the inside lip of slide, thinking of proactively doing outside lip and all slides to prevent future issues... Slide wipers will be a winter project, to hot in texas right now..... Thanks, Jim
  11. JDCrow, interesting video.... 16 years is texas sun/heat tends to destroy plastic, sealants, etc.... Was hoping to avoid chasing down replacement gaskets, and if it is the inside of slide leaking, guessing slide seal is also end of life... Thanks JD
  12. Last trip out we were hit by a few deluges of rain... My road side slide start dripping water from one of the light fixture in slide ceiling... ugh! I have been diligent about caulking roof, beltline, etc.. Have never caulked anything on top of slide... New slide toppers 2 years ago... The rain was accompanied by wind which I am assuming blew water between topper and top of slide... What to a caulk/seal to stop this? Previously I have scrapped old out stuff and resealed... Here there is no existing caulking.... The top of slide looks to be fiberglass(?), or plastic covering, no visible cracks, dents, tears... thinking maybe caulking the top to side angle bracket, has rivets, no existing caulk there now, of maybe EPDM roof tape? Anyone had this issue, and/or suggestions, thanks... Jim D 2005 Monaco Knight PST
  13. jacwjames, your suggestion worked great, except I did have to loosen the back 6 screws holding to part of hinge, since my back cap has a moulding strip that blocked the exit for hinge, once done I had doors out in 10 minutes... move pieces to new door, replace put all doors back on top hinge in less than 10 minutes. On the plus side when loosing the top hinge I found a few rusted/broken screws, so I put in a new set an inch away from old... Thanks again!!!! JimD
  14. jacwjames, that exactly the type of hinge I have. My hinges are good, my door is damaged in lower section, I have a used door with good hinge piece.. did the doors slide easily if hinge is intact? Did you have to loosen the rail the door attach to (i.e. other 1/2 of hinge)? Guess I got lucky when my door fell off a couple of years ago and I was able to pop it back in.. My post was hidden in brush, and luckily for me, it had been hit before and was leaning away from road so damage was only to bottom of door.. Did you have to slide off the wheel fender as part of you quest to door? JimD 2005 Monaco Knight 38PST
  15. Hello, had a brush with back right side of RV, thought is was a shrub, was actually hiding a lurking barrier... Ended up crushing battery compartment door a bit, including the aluminum frame at bottom.. I found a replacement door at a salvage yard in CA, made my day a 'reasonable' repair. My battery compartment door lifts up, the hinge is a curled metal strip at top of door that locks into the belt line running across top of door panels connecting fiberglass sidewall to bottom metal boors/fenders.. A little background, I once had a door fall off when the strut failed and I over extended the door lifting it up in a hurry, so I thought "this will be easy". Wrong! nothing is easy with an RV. What happened by accident is not easily reproduced by 'gentle' encouraging. Has anyone done this? is there 'trick/technique to get doors to pop off this funky hinge. When door popped off a couple of years ago, I was able to get it back on by holding door upside down, pushing door into hinge and swinging door down, I seem to recall a 'pop' when door hinge engaged. As I age I have learned force is not always an answer, so I seeking knowledge from those with experience. JimD 2005 Monaco Knight 38PST
  16. FWIW, I just did similar repair... the check valve between the cutoff switch and tank would bind and I got no hot water.. The internals of check valve was plastic and had eroded over the years.... new one is all brass, hope it last as long (15 years)... I would recommend anyone removing HW tank to check/replace check valve. And I already owned pex pliers, cutter, and pinch rings from previous repairs.
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