RustyTools

Thanks for asking the questions, I've wondered too. Mine does exactly the same thing on startup (current '08 Camelot and previous '06 Endeavor). Haven't found any info at all as to how/if to even access them. My guess is that it's hidden somewhere in the Cummins-propriety software-world. "If it ain't broke, I can still fix it".

Thanks Bruce!

Ok, finally back on track (sorta). I called 'Just For Towing' several times, but always got an answer machine. Looking at their website, they do indicate some Remco parts are available. I'm reluctant, however, to buy over the internet unless I can talk to them first. So, I'll just keep trying. Thanks much for the heads-up!

Hi Bruce - Thanks for the info about 'Just For Towing'. Like so many things get in the way of life, a medical issue rose its ugly head this this week, and I've had to put coach projects aside for the time being. I'm hoping to get back to my quest asap.

Remco Towing discontinued their fine line of pump kits several years ago, which allowed a FWD vehicle to be towed 4-wheels down. Don't know why, but I assume for product liability concerns. In any case, I'm about to trade in my current Dodge Caravan (with the kit) for a newer one and add a kit so it can be towed too. Not wanting to cannibalize the old one if I can help it, I'd like to obtain either another kit from somebody that doesn't need theirs anymore or at least some of the less-common parts (selector valve, right-angle connector, pump-motor, etc).

I was planning to just use long jumpers and the coach battery to fire off the engine if needed. However, after this thread (and the $99 price 😄 ) and your comments I am now impatiently waiting by the mailbox for mine to arrive. Thanks all for the tips & info! Lithium products are really coming on strong these days, and to have that little box overpower a 400ISL diesel engine is amazing (Let's see now, if I look them up on ebay I wonder how many regular individual lithium cells I'd need to stack? LOL).

I'd forgotten that we are talking with "Mr Clean" himself until I saw the condition of his engine. I dunno how you can find the time, Harry, to keep your coach in such pristine shape - I don't even have time to keep up with what's already broken! And the write-up for that repair is awesome. Kudos to you, brother!

Yup, were your ears burning, Tim? 😃 I've learned a lot from your experiences and accomplishments, as we all have from each other as we travel along the bumps and potholes in our journeys. Drive safe!

Tom, Tim, Harry , et al - Many thanks for the help in getting the myriad of different - but similar - switches sorted out, and now with photos, dimensions, and part numbers coalescing together, I'm moving forward. At first, I was a bit hesitant to just run right out and buy a bunch of them because of the confusion I had awhile back when sourcing my air-leveling valves. I found someone on-line who'd posted what they'd replaced theirs with on their coach, so I bought the same ones. Dunno in the long-run if mine had been swapped previously or the other guys' had, but in the end I had set of non-similar valves (or more likely, "can you say 'snowflake"?). Luckily, traded them to a campground we'd stopped at, and they had a pretty decent recent parts/repair shop. Harry, even tho we're 'sorta' on opposite coasts, you've been a great 'support group' over the past few years in giving me pointers to nurse my coach back to health, but now I'm not even sure you OWN a coach when I see your nails and fingers are looking so clean and unbruised! Usually when I'm done for the day, I feel like I slacked off if I'm not bleeding somewhere or look like I was in a coal-mine all day. 😆 Many thanks! Some phrases that are apropos: 1) "I'm the only thing that works on this coach 100% of the time" 2) "You can always tell a motorhome owner, they have a screwdriver or wrench in their back-pocket".

Thanks for the info, Tom. I keep forgetting to use the Parts List, mostly because nothing has broken lately (oh boy, that's gonna make the wheels fall off now that I'm bragging! 😩). It is a terrific resource! Now that I am seeing that the problem is poor conductivity in the switches, I can breathe easier. When I tried the first few switches and the slide(s) didn't move, I had visions of crawling all over, in, and under the coach looking for rat damage. Fortunately, this is shaping up to be a simple fix (there i go jinxing myself again). Just gotta determine which switches I need. I've always been one for labeling EVERYTHING, and usually take photos too. Where I used to work we used various different hi-tech contact cleaners in the lab, but now I only have access to the standard ones but they still get the job done well. Thanks again y'all!

Thanks for the info, Tim, but I couldn't find an exact match. Will keep looking.

Our coach has not been used for an extended time, and now I found that most of the switches that control slide in/out operation for the 4 slides don’t work. However, I can get a switch to start functioning again after squirting the inside of it with DeoxIT contact cleaner and exercising it, so I am assuming internal corrosion. Rather than take each switch apart and clean it, I want to just replace them all. However, I can’t find a part number on them. They are the common rectangular 2-position momentary-action ones. Any ideas of the part number, or where to source them? Thanks!

If you're talking a poll about interest, we're very interested for 2023. (And I'm striving to remain healthy long enough to attend)

It would be an interesting story to learn why both of my mirrored closet-doors AND the glass shower door & its surrounds were missing when I bought my 08 Camelot. PO had couple beach towels covering the closet and an el-cheapo plastic shower curtain for the shower (Maybe he liked the feel of wet plastic on his skin?) Yes, Traico at SEA is definitely the go-to-guy for this stuff. He sent me the correct doors/frames/hardware/etc. He even had the dimensions for my model coach (not specifically 'my' coach but for the 08 Camelot in general). Knowing how much our coaches are 'snowflakes', I double-checked his info and came up with slightly different measurements on mine.... But obviously I was wrong because I had to add a 1" spacer at the bottom of the closet doors to fill in a gap when I installed it. 😠

As noted, Rustoleum Topcoat several years ago. No issues or streaks whatsoever (except for the dirt).

At first blush, I'd say your idea should work, Gary. Dunno though, if you have an EMS system, they can act strange at times. It's been a few years and I don't remember exactly how I wired it in the panel, but I think I switched out one single AC breaker for a tandem breaker in the main box. I used a heavy-duty DPDT-center-off appliance switch to control mine when changing power sources. As an aside, when I was redoing the power, I ran another line from each AC breaker in the panel to the floor area near the AC's and installed outlets so I could plug in little cube heaters when needed. That way, I wasn't doubling-up on drawing off big loads on a line. I also couldn't think of a time when I'd be using an AC and a heater simultaneously, so it seemed like an obvious choice.

We had an 'Atrium' model HR Endeavor several years ago. Finding that the big Atrium windows and windshield let in a lot of sun/heat in summer, even with the standard 2 AC units running on high, we installed a 3rd unit to replace the overhead kitchen vent. The coach had the standard 8k gen-set and had no problem running all 3 AC's at the same time, as long as we were attentive to what other appliances were also being used. I made a separate 120vac line for it that I could either connect directly to the power pedestal when parked, or run to the block heater outlet/breaker for use when on the road. Wasn't a very difficult job and it worked superbly, often joking that we could make now the interior cold enough to hang meat. Good luck!

I had a heck of a time trying to find one of those 'high-tech ride-height DIY-calibrated adjustment pointers'. Wife had lots and lots of plastic ones, but none of the old-school metal ones. Finally had to cut up my trusty commode-clean-out swirly stick 🥴. (BTW, I cleaned it first). Now I gotta ask, Harry, why you went with 8 1/2" vs 8 13/16"? Can you tell/feel the 5/16" difference? Newest project is re-adjusting the cables & chains in the curb-side bedroom slideout. Seems one chain is loose and droops down when the slide is coming in, catching on the other chain/cable connector causing them to interfere with each other and not allow the slide to come in. The BAL Accu-Slide manual has a good write-up of how to adjust them. Should be a simple job, right? ha ha ha ha ha ...

I had used that latch idea and added a door on the 'other side' of the holding tank door on my Endeavor. It worked great, and opened up plenty of additional room. After many hours crawling around under my Camelot to work on the ride-height valves and tubing, I've been thinking about opening those wheel well doors too. So I'm watching with great interest!

Someone commented to me one time that "You must be pretty rich to be able to afford such a fancy motorhome like that". My response is that I've found you can only be one or the other, not both. 😁

Many thanks, Frank. The 'missing link'! Getting closer to the end of this project, whew!

After resolving the issue with low ride-height on passenger side, I fell down another rabbit-hole. Except I'm the one that's going crazy in this one! In researching the correct ride-height, I've come across many different measurement 'suggestions' as well as some "RTFM ya dummy" (that's short for Read The *Fancy* 😉 Manual) dictates for the rear. Problem is, my Owner Manual doesn't state the correct height, nor are most of the suggestions consistent. I realize it is very important as to the height, and after all my recent turmoils under there, I want to get it spot-on. Several gracious folks have offered their information, which I appreciate, but because of the different years and Monaco's changes in measurement, which is the real McCoy? Hence my question: What should be the correct rear ride-height for an '08 Camelot 40PDQ (no tag), and where exactly should it be measured from? (ie, plate top to plate bottom, frame rail to H-member, or?)

Thanks, Richard. Hope all is well with the weather. Safe travels!

Closing the loop... passenger ride height valve was bad. I did a forensic analysis (ie, tore it apart), but couldn't determine the root cause. In addition, I found a wire going to the 6-pak was intermittent right at its connector, causing me to occasionally have a FAULT light illuminate, and making it harder to troubleshoot the initial problem. Thanks for the help, all.

(Probably would have been better-served if I'd put it the Compressed-Air section, but you're reading it here so I guess it's ok) Anyways, I replaced both ride-height valves, removed/verified the 6-pak block, and cleaned up everything. Now, I do have control over both sides at the rear, YAY! However, I evidently messed up the 'indexing' on the valve levers, as the valves now allow and/or exhaust air at wrong times in their cycle. So, does anyone have photos of where on the valve shafts the levers should be located in their cycle? I'm sure i could eventually get it right, but it'd take forever.