arveeguy

When you say that the plastic bottle is full, I assume that you mean that it is up to the full line - not totally full. The cause could be any number of things. I has a similar problem when I bought my '97 Dynasty twelve years ago. I tried a lot of thing to fix it, including replacing the sensor. Nothing made any difference - and the temp. gauge never went higher than it should. Over time I started to pay closer attention to what was going on. When I filled the expansion tank (the plastic bottle) full enough the low coolant light wouldn't come on - for a while. Then it would intermittently come on and off - apparently at will. Eventually I determined that the "problem" was with the level sensor in the expansion tank - but it wasn't really a problem. It was just not perfect for my engine/expansion tank/sensor setup. What was happening is when the expansion tank was filled full enough to keep the light from coming, on everything was fine - until the water in the engine got hot and expanded. When that happened coolant got discharged from the tank until the level ended up at equilibrium between engine and expansion tank. At which time the sensor in the expansion tank showed "normal" when the engine was hot and "low" when the engine was cold. The "normal" condition for the coolant level sensor in my coach is that it always shows low when the engine is first started. As the engine warms up the light goes off when the thermostat opens and the expansion tank does it's job. When the water in the engine cools the water goes back into the engine, and the light comes on. It's interesting to watch the difference between winter and summer when starting a trip: in summer the light goes out, and stays out, fairly quickly, while in winter the light cycles off and on for a long time before it finally staying off. It's also interesting to watch the behavior of the light as we drive over mountains, both in summer and winter. The light is always out when going up the mountain, and then goes on during the decent - more quickly in winter than in summer. Don't know for sure that this is the issue in your coach, but it's something to keep in mind. Jeff Huntington '97 Dynasty 40

If you have the Cummins 8.3 engine and are referring to the fuel cutoff solenoid, it is on the curbside, more to the front than the rear. Down in the vicinity of the throttle linkage, but inboard, a bit higher, and more forward. If it's not working, it's possible to throw it in and out by hand - reaching down and pushing up and pulling down on the linkage. If it needs replacing, it's not a horrible job to do yourself - but make sure you get the right part. Here is the information that was given to me - really helpful. Jeff Huntingon I have a 1998 Windsor and I have changed the fuel cut off solenoid and it was not a really big job. I went through the same thought process that you did…went to Cummings and they wanted $400 for the part and I actually bought one. (carried it back and they gave me grief but finally took it) It did come with a new Mounting bracket. They did want big bucks to install it. So I looked around for another source and found one in my own back door. Diesel Equip Co right here in Greensboro, NC. They wanted $ 50 bucks for the exact replacement and no mounting bracket. The solenoid is a stand alone item and there is no relay involved. The solenoid is in a hard place to get to and you have to stand on the motor under the bed. You won’t need your glasses because it is all done by feel, but If I remember correct, an 8mm socket is the only wrench that you need…just unplug the connector to the existing unit remove a couple of 8mm mounting bolts and reverse. The first time may take a little longer but now that I know where it is, I could probably do the job in less than one hour. The part number is in the parts list and I don’t remember what it is…the people at Diesel Equip are very helpful and I suggest you give them a call if it is not clear in the parts list. I was at a Flying J when I could not crank the MH and I went to the cutoff and held it up with my hand while the wife cranked the coach. It stayed up and I drove the MH home and changed it out there. I hope this gives you a little confidence to do it yourself, If not get the part and take the MH to a local mechanic and they will probably do it for one hour labor The solenoid in connected to a lever with a hitch pin clip ( no fuel lines are involved at all)... just pull the pin and remove the old unit. I looked at mine since last night and the socket is a 10mm. No there should be no adjustment necessary on the new unit. Just be sure that it is operating without binding but I don't think that you have anything to worry about with that but it is worth a look after you install the new unit. So here it is: Remove two mounting bolts (10mm socket), remove the wiring connector to the relay (easy), remove the hitch pin clip to the lever to the fuel pump.... you are done... reverse order to put in new one. Good luck and I certainly do not mind answering your questions.

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