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Steven P

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Posts posted by Steven P

  1. 5 hours ago, jacwjames said:

    That is why I avoided TSD is they want access to bank account which in today's cyber world isn't appealing to me. 

    I have TSD and was worried about this too. I created a fuel account that TSD is tied to.  I move $ in when needed to only keep a small amount in case of hacking.  Never had an issue. 

    • Like 2
  2. 6 hours ago, Jeff H said:

    Hello

    I am thinking of getting an online US bank account.  Any recommendations for online banks?

    I'm not Canadian,  but maybe look into Bank of America?  I don't recommend Wells Fargo as I hear lots of complaints. 

  3. 15 hours ago, Just Jim said:

    I think the only thing that gives me pause is the 425 hp engine...  I think that is the DEF engine which is a no go for me.  2008 was still kind of the figuring out period for that emissions system. 

    No DEF in this one.  It may have the regen cycle though.  I'll learn more today. 

  4. Hi all, we've had our Diplomat since 2018 and have been pleased overall with it.  I know this group is  a Monaco group and may be biased but I figure there's a ton of knowledge here to ask.  

    We may have a deal on a 2008 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40qdp we cannot turn down.  It is a 1 owner w records.  I plan to get an inspection first but am looking for general info and have put out a question on a Tiffin FB page. 

    4 slides, 425hp Cummins w Alison 3000, Freightliner chassis, 2 heat pumps, 2 furnaces, lifetime roof, res fridge, nothing major w it.  I've read about the big 3 (roof radius cracks, wet bay floor rot and DS side floor rot) and that's about it.  There was a leak over the entry door that's been fixed. I will need all new tires and have all the fluids changed, etc...  has been sitting about 3 to 4 months and not camped in in a couple years.  I plan to test all systems myself to start.  It'll need new chassis batteries. It's a beautiful coach and as my wife said, we'd be dumb not to get it at this price.  Just looking for general info and help and things to look for.   Thank you!

    Steven P

    20240227_153727.jpg

    • Like 1
  5. On 1/28/2024 at 5:52 PM, Benjamin said:

    It's very unlikely that the utility is causing this problem.  It looks like a classic shared neutral circuit that has a weak neutral connection at some point.  In your first pic in the first post, I see a rectangular "decorator" cover on a conventional double outlet, and I see an orange extension cord that appears to go through a hole in the wall, both are huge red flags that the wiring has been klutzed up.  Before I'd hook back up, take a heater and plug it in on high to one of those outlets, then read the voltage on that outlet and the other one, then move the heater to the other one and read voltages again.  The voltage will be fine with no load, but show the weakness under load.  The electrician should know that, but it's your RV you're plugging in. 

    Thanks all for the input.  I'm sharing this w the storage unit owner.  As far as the pic. That orange extension cord doesn't go thru a hole in the wall, it runs up the side of the garage door and over to the garage door opener.  I unplugged it at that time to check the voltage.  I believe there are 10 bays and likely all plugged like this.  I've been using this unit since 2018 and not experienced this til now.  They are coming back out Thurs.  Another update:  Sunday I checked again and my surge protector was on and fine but had shut off at some time bw Wed and Sun for volts below 104 on one leg. 

  6. Update:  the storage unit owner had his electrician and the power company check everything out.  Other than a stuck open main breaker, nothing else has been discovered.  I mentioned that people here seem to feel it may be coming from the power company and possibly a transformer issue.  He said he'd reach back out to the power company to push them further.  All volts I checked on Wed were as expected. Thanks all!

  7. 27 minutes ago, DavidL said:

    Something certainly sounds incorrectly wired in that storage area.  No way should there be over 120v from any outlet.  I can't believe an electrician (a real one) would say all is fine and dandy.

     

    All I know is he looked and looked and tested all he could and it was all correct as far as he could tell at that time.  Keep in mind 24hr passed from when I was seeing 155 to 160v and when he came to check.  He couldn't recreate the issue.  And yes, I'm still concerned about it. 

    @Steve P glad to help. 

    @Dr4Film I agree.  He had the protector but chose not to use it.  Gorgeous coach.  He did admit he is pretty new to this and still learning. 

  8. As a 2006 Diplomat owner, ( @Tom Cherry) they came from the factory to only charge the house batteries when plugged into shore power.  I have an Amp L Start on mine to keep the chassis batteries charged.  You can zoom in and see the AMP L start on the right side of the pic. Prior to that, I turned off my chassis battery switch whenever plugged in.  The goofy downside to that design is that the door and porch awnings get power from the chassis batteries.  

    20210106_134351.jpg

  9. Last Sunday am I went to my coach where it's stored in a fully enclosed rental unit. I keep it plugged in to a 110v outlet to keep the batteries charged and the beer fridge cold.  I use a plug in surge protector. When I got there the Magnum remote was off and my batteries read 13.4V. The fridge was cold, but I had no power.  The surge protector had a fault of 166 volts so it shut off.  I'm thinking it had just happened.  I unhooked the coach and using my meter got 155V at the wall outlets of the unit. Checked an exterior one and it read 120v.  Rechecked mine and back to 122V.  Plugged back in and initially it was fine then shut off again after a few minutes due to 160v. See pic. The exterior plug was reading 100V at that time. See pic. The storage unit owner had an electrician look into and all he found was a breaker that was stuck open,  no loose neutrals.  He replaced that breaker and suggested the storage owner call the power company but my unit was at 122v and fine at that point.  Left the coach battery switches off and went back today.  All seems good so I left it plugged in to the charger w the switches off. 

    However, a neighbor w a 2019 Tiffin showed up today to a dead coach. Chassis batteries of 4.6V and house at 11.4V. He has a 30a wall outlet w 122v reading at one terminal and none at the other.  He was NOT using a surge protector.  We found a live 110v outlet and plugged his coach in, this time to his small surge protector which showed power was good to the coach.  But, his coach was reading no incoming power at his panel. Checked breakers, charger, etc...and still nothing.  He's calling a tech to come out, hoping nothing got fried w that 166V if he got that. He said he's never had problems w the power here so he didn't think he needed the surge protector.  I'm thinking we never need them til we need them and who knows when that may be. Use your surge protection. 

    20240114_112057.jpg

    20240114_112207.jpg

    • Like 1
  10. I'd start w looking at the back of that Magnadyne. Most radios have about 3" of wire coming out labeled for their purposes. As Tom says, look closely at the white wires for letters.  I have 2 radio switches. Make sure one is off and one is on.  Also possible that a wire came loose when moving all of them around.  

  11. 20 hours ago, Ivan K said:

    There we go, that's what I was looking for in the future. Firmware upgrade. Can you share if and how cost effective the reprogramming vs buying a new one?

    All I had to pay was shipping.  There was no charge to reflash the tstat.  🙂

    • Like 1
  12. I've had both.  First I went w the micro air tstat and love it.  I had it on my older duotherm heat pumps.  When I replaced  those w new models almost 2 years ago I sent my tstat to microair and they programmed it for the new heat pumps.  

    I had a soft start on my rear old heat pump and liked it.  I could run that heat pump from 20A hookup when needed.  When I had the units replaced I forgot to pull it off so it got trashed...gulp.  I haven't put one back on bc we haven't been able to travel as much.  

    • Like 1
  13. I'm not familiar w that toilet but I'll try to help.  It looks like a manual toilet, hence the foot pedal flusher.  One time when mine did this I had an airlock from changing from onboard to city water. Once I shut the water off to the toilet and ran the water it worked itself out.  However, in yours if it's doing this randomly,  id think there is something wrong or worn in the foot lever mechanism.  I'm not familiar enough with the internal mechanisms of these to offer much more help.  There should be a water supply line behind the toilet w a valve you can shut off/on at least temporarily so u can use the toilet and stop the flooding while researching. 

    • Like 1
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