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David White

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David White last won the day on December 25 2019

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Required Information

  • FirstName
    David
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Windsor
  • Year
    2005

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  • Full Address (Optional)
    101 Firefly Cv , Madison , Mississippi, 39110
  • Phone (Optional)
    6014660895
  • Brief Bio (Optional)
    Retired, Married and part time RVer.. A Monaco owner (Diplomat & Windsor) since 2004, and member of Monacoers group since about 2006.

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  1. George, that is good with the the front AC condenser location. If I remember correctly (again with no first hand knowledge), it has an auxiliary fan there too. Is that working?
  2. First let me say that I’m no AC expert, but picked up a bit of information on compressor failure from several sources, and the information is the same. I have a 2005 Windsor, side radiator with a Danfoss controller. It seems they were programmed to not turn on at low rpms (such as idle), unless the engine temp calls for fan. My Ac cooling is mounted with the radiator. Some were mounted up front and had a fan to cool. So, many times while stopped and idling, the AC is not getting proper cooling and that is a killer for compressors. Some people simple turn the AC off when idling or
  3. I would suggest calling Talin RV in Brooksville FL. Chris T (Talin) is a major help for this group and he has gone over the repair technique on this site several times. I think they offer the parts, and even an inexpensive heavy duty rivet gun to do the work. TalinRV 352-942-2653.
  4. If motor is getting power (you usually can hear a click), this might work— in the past I had this happen and paid a tech mobile tech several $$ to get it working. He tapped on the motor with a small hammer. It started working and did for several years, so you might give several sharp taps on the motor (but keep clear of the step if it activates). Likely the motor has a dead spot and will eventually need replacing.
  5. Unless your canisters are marked, you should do that to signify which is the basic and carbon filter position. I think the basic filter cleans first (entry pipe side) and then the water goes from there through the carbon last, so you’ll need to determine entry and exit pipes.
  6. One thing else is to put the slide out and go outside to look underneath at the laminate exterior cover on the bottom. If you see marks on it, that is an indication of roller locations. My ‘05 Windsor has 2 rollers, one about a foot off each end of the slide. You will likely need to lift the slide up by putting wood blocking underneath (to protect) and Jack it up. Maybe a long 2x4 piece. That will relieve pressure on the rollers for adjusting.
  7. Is this the bed slide? If so, there possibly are 2 rollers mounted against the exterior wall and they can be adjusted up and down. You will likely have to remove the under bed covering to get access.
  8. As noted in my earlier post, I lowered mine to 7#. As another poster shows, Cummins says 7# on the non-EGR ISX. I think that’s also true on the ISL which is not a EGR engine in your year engine. I had problems finding a cap that fits the tank opening and lock tabs, because most you’ll find in stores will not correctly lock down to seal. I took mine to a napa store and they matched it up. Of course you don’t have that option, so I’m not sure how to find it. It’s not a Cummins item, but it is something that NAPA would have.
  9. I note the one you found shows 16# on the cap and since there is no other description I’m assuming that’s what you would get. If that’s correct, it’s too high. You’re asking for trouble with damage to your tank, since many have experienced split tanks due to excess pressure. I’ve found 7# is adequate for my ISL400 (or lower one near that pressure), and the tank will not be over pressured.
  10. So sorry to hear that. Bill was always willing to help me, and did on many occasions. I will miss, but remember, his friendship. He and Peggy loved their RV friends. He will be missed on this and other RV sites, even if he was not known personally.
  11. FYI, today I got access to one of the switches and jumped across the switch. I think it was the “in” side. It clicked but it did not move. I then rocked the switch to open and the cover moved out and now operates normally. I think the motor was in a bad rotation position and will likely do it again. Now I need to determine how to access to motor i have done a thorough lube of the screw rod and joints on the frame. It now is moving very smooth, so hopefully I don’t have to replace a motor since it’s totally out of reach for me and would require cover assembly frame removal I think
  12. Chuck, do you have 2 switches? Did the one bad one cause both not to activate the motor?
  13. I’ve tried to search my problem, but failed to get the needed info, so forgive me if this has been covered. Specifically, my Electric (not air) Step Well cover will not extend. The out/in rocker switch seems to work, since I can hear a “click” when the switch is activated in each direction. I need to get access underneath to check the motor and was wondering if there is a way to get the front panel off? About a year ago this happened and I bumped the step end panel hard - it started working and has not failed since. This is on an ‘05 Windsor. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  14. I think there are likely earlier discussions which cover your question. In the search box put “Microwave” and one of the results starts out with a Samsung question, but evolves to the Sharp which should fit yours. Note the 2 long bolts, accessed through the filter openings, with attach to a wall plate. You also likely have some side wood screws. That thing is heavy too, so the back plate of the Sharp is a much safer setup.
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