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@jacwjames Are your front and rear bags the same? The bag you referenced is similar to my rears. My fronts are double convoluted type. W01-358-6905 | Firestone Airide Air Spring | Double Convoluted | 20 (truckspring.com) 2000 40 Windsor S Series chassis.

My “problem children” Dynamic Duo….a Notre Dame Chemist and a “can fix anything” Plant Engineer decided to descale the main steam process boiler. Their “buffered” acid concoction were a wee bit more potent than they calculated. They drained the acid, after circulating in the heat exchanger” into the condensate drain. It ate up the pipe. I have had to put measures in place for this scenario, if 15% HCL doesn't achieve desired results 100% "Will get her done". Carbon steel really doesn't like being treated that way. I spent some time in West Africa, I was impressed by the enthusiasm and ingenuity. Unfortunately, it didn't always offset the lack of knowledge. PS @Tom Cherry, you are retired now. I want one of those 400 MPG heat driven carburetors. Surely the Big Oil NDA has expired. 😄

Steve, They found a "stuck open" main breaker. Is it possible the service entrance is 3 phase? If so, then the issues will be downstream of the power company. If you can see the entrance service, specifically if we can see the main breaker panel, typically we can tell the type of "feed" from the power company, 3 vs 1 phase. I need to look at 3 to 1 phase options that may cause your initial findings if a main breaker issue occurs, I.E. 1 or 2 phases aren't delivered. Your initial findings were textbook loss of neutral at the phase split.

Doug, Thanks for sharing. I haven't seen the high leg delta system in quite some time. I left the plant world 30 years ago. OH boy it has been 30 years!! The article is spot on, it is/was prevalent in office buildings in industrial and commercial facilities where a 3-phase system exists, and small split phase is required. I understand the utilization whereas 3 phase loads systems are present and there is a need for a Single-phase split load. I cannot for the life of me understand why a campground would utilize this system if they were starting from ground zero the opportunity to make a large mistake is always present.

MODERATOR EDIT There was a concurrent or VOLTAGE issues topic that delved into the new THREE PHASE Pedestals at some CG. That new topic was inadvertantly merged into this one. It has been removed and merged with an ongoing one....THREE PHASE. Sorry for the confusion. Way TOO MANY Electrical issues and Surge Suppressors and Pedestals and such. This one pertains to the original "potential open neutral and all "3 Phase" posts have been removed and houskeeping should be complete. END OF EDIT Tom, I don't disagree with what could be a problem with RV and power systems and how split phase power is designed. However, in replying to this issue, it was obvious the issue is/was the neutral line. His measurements were on the receptacle in the storage unit, outside of his RV, I.E. the entire facility appeared to have an issue as the RV next door was damaged due to this problem. The neutral in this case is not carrying the return current to the center tap of the secondary of the transformer. What is happening is that other circuits are creating a voltage imbalance. Typically the earth ground bound you referenced is carrying this load, just poorly. It is amazing the paths the current will find. When I stated the problem will be "from the transformer" that is a short form in my world for it is on the feed side of the panel. I work in the medium voltage world, but I can fake it in low voltage distribution when I have to. 🙂 It is possible to have no earth bond and still have balanced secondary legs.

A bad neutral will do what Steve was experiencing initially. 120VAC is 1/2 of a 240 VAC with a center "neutral". When this deteriorates, disconnects, etc, the 120 VAC legs unbalance and you will see higher than normal on one side and lower than normal on the other. Never trust a circuit that you have seen this on, until someone fixes something. It's not going to be a breaker on "residential" service. It will be a problem from the transformer.

I did some welding on my chassis, near the front. Isolated the batteries/shore power. Then put the ground clamp as close to the work area as possible. Once the path to the ground is established, the risks of stray currents/voltages in other systems is going to be reduced. Be mindful of control wires, hoses, etc., as it is near impossible to be far enough away from those items. There is a risk from both a heat and induced current, so isolation and shielding should be done carefully near the work area. I suspect that Monaco's recommendation was "covering their bases".

Nice engine bay. I dont often see a turbo blanket on RV engines.

I agree with K9Exec, once he proof reads, the cheap relays are just that. I live by the good, fast, cheap model. Pick any two of the 3 and the one you do not choose is what you have to be willing to live with. Good + Fast = Will not be Cheap. Fast + Cheap= Will not be good. Good + Cheap= Will not be fast (and probably will not be all that good.)

@cbr046 Did you toggle the rear "Front/Rear" Switches? Does the problem happen with the switch in the "rear" position? I had one of those events once and it was the rear run switch.

Seeing as this thread went south.

Tommy, that is what I would expect. At the compressor, your low side will/should be lower than expected due to the length of hose and more so if you have an expansion valve vs. an orifice. Bjohnsonmm is planning on reading up front at the evaporator, which will read lower than expected on the high side due to the length of hose and the dryer and condensor being upstream of the port. I also like to creep up on it for RVs and let them equalize and check against outside temperature, as that will indicate more accurately than a running pressure reading.

If you are reading the high side at the evaporator, front of the coach, be careful with your high side number, you will be behind the dryer, the condenser and a lot of hose. I suggest you sneak up on it.

I will take a very close look once I have that long beltline uncovered. My doors currently indicate no hinge issues. See picture, on the driver's side, the beltline starts above the window and ends at the rear bottom of the slide. On the passenger side, it is from front passenger window top to front passenger window bottom. I suspect I am going to have some paint cracking on that beltline once removed.

Scotty, Thanks for confirming. I have a 2000 Windsor, so on one side my beltline starts at the bottom and runs up the rear side and then back on the top. My original plan was to buy 400 rivets, then I "thought" myself out of it. I believe I am going with 400 rivets, I can "rathole" whatever inventory I dont use.

Typically how many rivets should someone start with? I know I have 7 -9 screws that I can see need tending to, is this a process of purchasing 250 and just do the majority of them? Thanks in advance for all of the help from all of the contributors. Darin

I received my weep hole covers and installed them. I am like the others, it is refreshing to see young people learning the skills that will serve them in life.

I just put my order in.

That makes sense. That wire going to the front needs protection.

Depth of discharge and maintenance will dictate life of batteries. Below is a depth of discharge vs cycles for FLA (Flooded Lead Acid). I have repeatedly had 6+ years on FLA batteries, however I am a part timer, so if you are a full time boondocker, you can expect shorter time periods (years) as your cycle count is higher. It is within range for full timers to only get 2 years from batteries if they repeatedly take them down to 40% DOD. For full timers, AGMs do pay for themselves vs FLA. see the last chart with cycles vs DOD for AGMs. There are significantly more cycles for AGMs if used in the 30-50% DOD. This with the lower maintenance will more than likely out perform FLA significantly better along with not having the associated venting issues. You can do the economics and decide based on your loads what batteries best fit your needs. Regardless if you are using FLA or AGM, always allow a full charge cycle, which typically will take a minimum of 4 hours for any level of > 10% DOD recharge. State of charge is made after the load is removed and the batteries have had a "rest period" http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0PNKH1Rf9T4/TyiVh-sIMoI/AAAAAAAAAeM/_J_a5UQc3ug/s1600/Battery+State+_+Voltage+for+lead+acid+batteries.png

That was the size of the pins on my 2000 Windsor. The latch appears to be the same latch pictured earlier in this thread. Sorry for the late reply, but I was technology disconnected over the weekend. It was a good weekend.

At the time 3 or so years ago, I bought them from Amazon. I couldn't get the same product when searching today. However I did find these: https://www.huyett.com/products/fasteners/pins/dowel-pins/dow-187-0750

Agreed I purchased a 50 pack of dowel pins for $10.00 no painting, latch is now tight as new and I can fix 25 more in the future. I changed both sides, seeing as I was in that far.

I removed the rivets to repair my door latch also. One of my dowels had worked its way out. For reference they are an alloy steel dowel pin, 1/16" diameter by 1/4" in length.

Look into your local NAPA, CARQUEST, etc. My local guy stated he had no issues, however the big box stores are all out.