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k7jv

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k7jv last won the day on November 6 2020

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Required Information

  • FirstName
    James
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Dynasty
  • Year
    2006

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  1. Years ago, on our '06 Dynasty, I did what you are wanting to do. I explored, first, with a fairly basic bore scope. I first verified that I could "punch" out of the ceiling heat duct where it makes kind of a "T" above the driver/passenger seat. I went "in" thru the vent above the passenger seat. I was able to push the camera out thru the corner where the east-west side and the north-south side of the duct, at the bottom corner, above the passenger seat, and was able to push it thru enough to see the bundle of wires that ran from the ceiling down into the media cabinet. That told me I coul
  2. Yup. Had the same problem while having our Silverleaf system installed a few years back. Most commercial air equipment stores should have them. Found ours at A1 Coupling and Hose in Albany, OR. Pretty easy fix once the unknowns were worked out.
  3. Back in the days of Radio Shack, it was easy to get electronics spray cleaners. Such may still be available at places like Lowes or Home Depot, but I haven't looked for it. If you have some, or can find some, that would be one way to perhaps remove a lot of the contamination you may have gotten, if drying it out good doesn't correct your problem. If it were me, I would try dry-scrubbing it with a relatively soft bristled brush to remove any surface contamination, before I tried any water or chemicals. Whatever you do, don't use any chemicals that might significantly compromise the thin pro
  4. I don't know if I can describe this very well, but I'll share what I did with the control panel on our AquaHot in our '06 Dynasty. I removed all four corner screws allowing the control panel to come off, and it also separated the control chassis from the back of the compartment barrier. I then re-secured the two machine screws on the right side of the control chassis thus securing the right side of the chassis back onto the barrier, but with the control panel still off. Then, I used the remaining machine screw hardware to secure the right two holes on the control panel to the barrier and to
  5. Don, controlling the zones involves two control systems. It requires operating the pumps to circulate the fluid and it requires operating the fan(s) to circulate the air. The control for both of these systems comes from the circuit board mounted behind the black panel in your aft basement compartment. I don't know how electrically conductive gray tank water might be, but I would expect it to have more contaminants in it to allow conduction than would fresh water. The terminal strips down both sides of the control circuit board provide the connections to the fans at each of the heat exch
  6.  Yes the gray tank did overflow,  I had some water in the basement my aqua hot is right above the shower. The front blower in the driver compartment would not shut off I had to cut the wire. After everything dried out I reconnected it and the fan works fine. All the fans in the living room and the kitchen work I just have no heat coming out of them, the fan in the bathroom and in the shower worked fine heat comes out of both of them. I did have some water coming out of the wiring underneath the day it happened.

  7. Wow! Several questions: Gray tank must have overfilled? Any idea how much water? Where did the water go (drain from the floor), or did it just stay there? Open your rear bay door (the AquaHot) and see if there's evidence of your water? When you turn off the AH fan switch-pad button in the bath, does the fan turn off or just keep running? No heat mid-ship forward, does that mean the living room/kitchen does NOT put out heat? Do those fans turn on and off like they should, just no heat? Answer these, then I'll see what I can share. Wow!!!
  8. At the very least, uplug and abandon in place. We converted our '06 Dynasty from the Aladdin to Silverleaf. Silverleaf used virtually all of the Aladdin wiring and connectors, and their new equipment was built to accept those connectors. If you cut the connectors off, you don't gain anything, but you potentially lose, in the long run. If those connectors had been cut off, a twelve hour project would have been easily two or three times the labor. Hypoxia is right on.
  9. Hypoxia gave you what you need. In the "2007 Dynasty Rear Run Panel Layout" photo, you need to check the two relays labeled #12. The top one is the "Salesman Switch" disconnect for the Intellitec system and its loads. The bottom one is the "Salesman Switch" disconnect for the rest of the coach-related 12 volt loads. These two relays are set up to operate together, as a pair. You will want to read 12 volts to ground on both large lugs on both of those relays. (For a good source of "ground", there should be a large lug with several connectors tied to it, just to the left of the large r
  10. Just to jump to a quick "Plan B", on the Olympic peninsula it is likely that you won't need even one A/C. We are almost always able to keep our '06 Dynasty pretty comfortable with only one running. In fact it is only on days where it gets above 80 or 85 that we even have to run two. It takes the mid-90's before we need all three. When we are on 30 amp service, we'll leave only the front one on during the day, and then shut the front one down and leave the bedroom one in service at night. It would be a very rare day that you would need two A/C's up there, and even if you did get a truly "h
  11. About all that it could be would be some kind of a restriction in the engine loop. The ONLY things that were touched were presumably the two hoses, right? A check valve not opening? (if there is one, and if the hoses were reversed at one end or the other) A restriction, or kink in one of the runs they installed? The engine pre-heat zone pump in the AquaHot chose this exact time to seize? Or they could have let some kind of debris or something in the inlet line that worked its way into the pump and stalled the impeller causing a restriction. Two thoughts on this one. Those pu
  12. You are absolutely right! My head was momentarily in a "bad" place. Dang, I hate it when that happens. I do know better! I hope no one stops reading after reading that post, but search on to get your catch. When the typical RV pedestal 30 amp source is used, the splitting of the single 120 VAC leg from the 3-wire 30 amp plug is actually done in the adapter to tie the hot leg of the 30 amp source to the otherwise normally two hot legs of the 50 amp cable plug, in the adapter. As a result, when our coaches are plugged into a 50 amp supply we should see 240 VAC across L1 and L2 in the coach
  13. You are right, Walter. And when you talk about the "old" 3-wire plug, that actually could actually be ok, too, as that should be configured in the receptacle just like the typical 30 amp receptacle in the RV pedestals we enjoy in the RV parks. On those, the two angled, flat blades will have each of the two 120 VAC lines present, and the "bottom"-center terminal should be the neutral. In that case, there isn't a ground provided to the "appliance". But a lack of a ground shouldn't bother the coach systems unless his incoming power protection devices trigger on the lack of a ground being pre
  14. Take a look at that drier receptacle or plug. Does it have two vertical slots/prongs opposite of one another, kind of an upside down doghouse or half-round looking slot/prong in the middle-top and an upside down "L" slot/prong on the middle-bottom? If so, you should have 120 VAC between each of the two "hot" terminals (the vertical flat ones) and both the neutral (the upside down "L") and the ground (the top, half-round) if your adapter is properly configured for that application, and your failure or damage should not have come from an over-voltage situation. You should see 240 VAC between
  15. Super, thank you. Not sure how you highlighted a screen print, but that's pretty neat. I'll check it out. Yay! You're right, Steven. Found it and fixed it. Cheers! 👏👍
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