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k7jv

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k7jv last won the day on November 6 2020

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  • FirstName
    James
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Dynasty
  • Year
    2006

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  1. I absolutely agree with the one comment above about the flame sensor. I am pretty sure that the ignition continues to spark, repeatedly, until it either times out or a flame is sensed. The start-up process would begin with fuel and air being admitted and sparking initiated. If, after the first spark, the resistance at the photo cell is low, it will be seen as a flame present, and further ignition would be stopped. Vito, I am going to be very surprised if you don't have it nailed, now! Yay!!!! Fantastic project, super craftsmanship, way more than I would have been willing to tackle and a great success story in the end!!!
  2. Quick comment. IF you have a pressure tank on your system like what came from the factory on our '06 Dynasty, that would explain why you have good pressure for several seconds. That tank, if you have one, should be "downstream" from your check valve as well as your filters. So it would let you enjoy full system pressure (pump pressure if not connected to shore water, and shore water pressure if connected to that source) for maybe ten seconds or so. You would start seeing a decreasing flow after four or five seconds after which it would drop to whatever your restriction is causing it to be. That tank, if you have one, would likely be blue in color, maybe 12" to 14" long or tall, and maybe 10" to 12" in diameter, and it would be pretty much mid-ship in the same bay as your water connections, hose reel, etc. It will likely be where you can't see it from the "outside world", but maybe access it thru a hatch between your wet bay and an adjacent pass-thru storage bay. ALSO - Looking at Tom Cherry's drawing, if your "City Water" valve is partially open, that would allow city water to run into your fresh tank thus robbing some of your pressure. It would also allow the pump to circulate some of your water back to the tank thus robbing some of your pressure. If this were true, you would experience water coming from your fresh tank overflow line(s) under your coach if you were on city water, and you would likely experience your pump running continuously if you were not connected to city water but your pump switch was in the "ON" position. It's a possibility.
  3. I liked having it up high on the corner like that on our '06 Dynasty much better than where it was on our previous '95 Dynasty. On that older rig, it was in the middle of the back wall, in the roll area where the back wall met the roof, right above the clearance lights. That was right where the dust and dirt always boils up while going down any dusty, dirty or gravel roads. It would boil right up to where the engine was sucking in its combustion air. I couldn't imagine how quickly the air filter would be compromised! IMHO, the placement they used on our coach and on your coach is pretty optimal. Aside from maybe an inch or so possible increase in engine "boost" (if that, once it got thru the air filter) a scoop or cover probably wouldn't benefit much. I thought about that a lot over the 15 years we loved and enjoyed our '06! You bought a beautiful coach! Enjoy!!
  4. Wow, Vito!! Good for you, looks like a huge project!! Hope it goes really well for you!!! Great to see your post. I hope all is well with you and your family. I really miss Tucson, the winter "warmth" and the opportunities to "share a bean" with you from time to time. Stay well and keep having all the fun they'll let you get away with!! JV
  5. Here are a couple of drawings relative to the '06 Dynasty. They may or may not help. The one is a Monaco drawing, and the other is a drawing that I made for our coach. Mine is complete and accurate TO A POINT. I do not guarantee it will match your coach's systems, but it may give you an idea where to look. On our coach, if you look at the drawing I made, you will see that there were two paths to control the low beams. One was thru the "Canadian Headlight Module" mounted on the "ceiling" of the front run box. The second was thru the Smartwheel Controller. On ours, there were no fuses involved with the low beam circuit, only the breaker in the upper left corner of the front run box connected to the terminal designated TS1. NOTE: The low beam lamps were actually powered by this circuit. The high beam lamps only had the relays powered by this circuit. Also, know that in the '06 model year, some of the board #8 designs had relay K1 and K2 controlling the LEFT and RIGHT HI BEAM lamps, which was how our coach was wired. Others had K1 and K2 controlling the HI BEAM and the LO BEAM's separately. This may or may not help you. It was amazing how much variation existed from one coach to the next, thru each model year, as well as from year to year. If nothing else, these drawings may give you an idea of where to check voltages to find out where the 12V "goes away". Good luck! Schematic%20-%20Lights%2C%20Turn%20Signals%20copy.pdf Schematic - Headlights, Run, Clearance, Fog and Dash.pdf
  6. Here are two drawings that might help. One is from Monaco and it is 2006 Dynasty specific. There are coach to coach differences, but it will probably do the trick for you. The other is a drawing that I made that just applied to the brake lighting, primarily. But the left edge "touches on" the turn and tail circuit. Good luck to you!! Schematic - Brake Lights.pdf Schematic - Lights, Turn Signals copy.pdf
  7. I don't know what your rear run panel looks like, but in '06, Monaco fed the front run panel from the rear run panel. All of those circuits were protected by circuit breakers. I'm attaching a drawing I made of the rear run panel on our '06 Dynasty. If they continued that design concept, it might help you check out to see what you have. I will say that your front run panel bears no resemblance to ours, but that's ok. The rear one could still be very similar. In 2006, there were three feeds to the front run panel. One was a chassis battery feed and it was protected by a 150 amp breaker. One was a coach battery feed protected by a 110 amp breaker that was switchable by the "salesman switch" by your entry door. And one was a coach battery feed protected by an 80 amp breaker that was always "hot". Good design practices would have those feed circuits already protected by circuit breakers like the attached drawing shows, or by fuses, most likely by circuit breakers. Layout - Rear Run Panel (Back 2).pdf.pdf
  8. Good morning, "Single with Bear". I am attaching two documents. One is the 120 VAC schematic that is specifically applicable to the 2006 Signature. The other is a photo of the breaker panel front that is in our coach which is also covered by that same drawing. Two observations: First, on our coach, breaker #1 is vacant and on yours breaker #8 is vacant. But I would expect the loads to be the same, overall, just moved to different positions. Curious why they did that, since the drawing is applicable to the '06 Sig's, too. Second, your breaker #7 is a 20-amp breaker. There are two wiring configurations on the drawing for the breaker that I believe to be doing the same job as your #7, one for a 15-amp breaker and one for a 20-amp breaker. It would be useful if you were to check out what outlets are powered and which are not, so you will know the option on that drawing that specifically matches the way your coach is wired. One question I do still have is how that breaker trips. Does it not hold at all? Or does it trip instantly upon reset, after a few seconds, a few minutes, a few hours, a few days? ONCE YOU ARE SURE WHAT ALL IS POWERED BY THIS BREAKER, I would unplug everything that is on it. Then reset it and see if the problem remains with all loads removed. If the breaker holds with all of the possible loads removed, the problem is in the wiring of the coach, somewhere. I say that, because you said you have replaced the breaker, at least once. It is highly unlikely you would have put in multiple bad breakers. If the breaker holds with all of the possible loads removed, I would then plug my devices in, one at a time. That way you may be able to identify a device you are using that has a problem. Let us know what you find. Schematic - 110V Wiring Diagram.pdf.pdf AC Panel - Inverter Supplied.JPG.pdf
  9. Years ago, on our '06 Dynasty, I did what you are wanting to do. I explored, first, with a fairly basic bore scope. I first verified that I could "punch" out of the ceiling heat duct where it makes kind of a "T" above the driver/passenger seat. I went "in" thru the vent above the passenger seat. I was able to push the camera out thru the corner where the east-west side and the north-south side of the duct, at the bottom corner, above the passenger seat, and was able to push it thru enough to see the bundle of wires that ran from the ceiling down into the media cabinet. That told me I could probably make it work. Then, from the inside of the cabinet, I was able to open up to where the same bundle of cables came down from the ceiling. Next, I fished a wire thru from the heat duct end and worked with it until I was able to finally pull a line thru from the media cabinet to the heat duct. Then, I was good to go, without having damaged anything, so far. It was then an easy matter to drill thru the roof and right into the central heat duct. Then I was easily able to pull the new DISH cable down thru the roof, along the center HVAC duct, turning right over the passenger seat, out thru the bottom, outboard, rear corner of the duct, down thru the existing opening with the rest of the cables and into the media cabinet. It worked great. Zero visible wires. Zero visible damage or evidence that it wasn't like that from the beginning. Good luck. Make sure you verify your ability to get thru the worst piece of the path before you start drilling holes. Cheers!
  10. Yup. Had the same problem while having our Silverleaf system installed a few years back. Most commercial air equipment stores should have them. Found ours at A1 Coupling and Hose in Albany, OR. Pretty easy fix once the unknowns were worked out.
  11. Back in the days of Radio Shack, it was easy to get electronics spray cleaners. Such may still be available at places like Lowes or Home Depot, but I haven't looked for it. If you have some, or can find some, that would be one way to perhaps remove a lot of the contamination you may have gotten, if drying it out good doesn't correct your problem. If it were me, I would try dry-scrubbing it with a relatively soft bristled brush to remove any surface contamination, before I tried any water or chemicals. Whatever you do, don't use any chemicals that might significantly compromise the thin protective coating that may be on both sides of the board. Actually, if contamination is the issue, any protective coating may not have been there in the first place, or it is already compromised. If you do "attack" it with anything other than a brush or compressed air, you can power down the AH by pulling the top (on our coach) fuse on board #R5 in the rear run box. There is a second fuse for the AH in the front run box on board #11, fuse #2, rated at 15 amp, but that fuse may or may not be used. I've not tested it on our coach. There are six AH fuses in the Intellitec cabinet, but I don't think you would need to be concerned about them. Four of those (Kitchen HI, MED and LO, and the bathroom exchanger or exchangers) use control power from the AH control panel to operate a relay that then uses the power from the Intellitec equipment to actually power the blowers. There are also two fuses in the Intellitec cabinet to power relays to enable either the electric heating element(s), or the diesel burner system, or both. All six of those fuses feed loads that are just controlled FROM the AH control board, so they should not back-feed power to the control board in any way.
  12. I don't know if I can describe this very well, but I'll share what I did with the control panel on our AquaHot in our '06 Dynasty. I removed all four corner screws allowing the control panel to come off, and it also separated the control chassis from the back of the compartment barrier. I then re-secured the two machine screws on the right side of the control chassis thus securing the right side of the chassis back onto the barrier, but with the control panel still off. Then, I used the remaining machine screw hardware to secure the right two holes on the control panel to the barrier and to the two left side holes on the chassis. This left the chassis securely attached to the barrier, like it was, but with the panel shifted its own width to the left. I then secured the left side of the panel to the barrier with new hardware. I did this because it is FAR easier to see which LED' are lit at any time, even in bright daylight. It also allows easy access to the terminal strips with a voltmeter for any testing. And it makes it easy to access the reset button, if you ever need to do that. (I'm not sure that I have ever had to do that in 15 years of ownership, though.) It is also very easy to refer to the markings on the panel and relate it to what you are seeing on the control board. I am partially color-blind, and it is extremely difficult for me to see when an LED is lit and it is on the other side of a lens. So this change made my life FAR easier!!
  13. Don, controlling the zones involves two control systems. It requires operating the pumps to circulate the fluid and it requires operating the fan(s) to circulate the air. The control for both of these systems comes from the circuit board mounted behind the black panel in your aft basement compartment. I don't know how electrically conductive gray tank water might be, but I would expect it to have more contaminants in it to allow conduction than would fresh water. The terminal strips down both sides of the control circuit board provide the connections to the fans at each of the heat exchangers, and it provides the connections to each of the four circulating pumps that are inside of the AH enclosure. For any of the fans to run, they have to get their power from that circuit board. For heat to be delivered, that zone pump has to be getting its power from that circuit board, as well. So I am thinking that is the only place in the whole picture that would be at the root of your problem. If your shower is located directly above the AH, there is a good chance that a path could exist to let water get onto that control board. Also, the control board is about the only part of the system that is not protected by the housing around the AH. If it were me, I would take the front plate off of that control panel and inspect it for any contamination. That black panel that it is mounted on is likely held in place by Velcro. You can easily pull it forward and take it out of the compartment to get to the back of the circuit board. My goal would be to clean up the board on both sides, the best I could. I suspect that might restore normal operation to your system.
  14. Wow! Several questions: Gray tank must have overfilled? Any idea how much water? Where did the water go (drain from the floor), or did it just stay there? Open your rear bay door (the AquaHot) and see if there's evidence of your water? When you turn off the AH fan switch-pad button in the bath, does the fan turn off or just keep running? No heat mid-ship forward, does that mean the living room/kitchen does NOT put out heat? Do those fans turn on and off like they should, just no heat? Answer these, then I'll see what I can share. Wow!!!
  15. At the very least, uplug and abandon in place. We converted our '06 Dynasty from the Aladdin to Silverleaf. Silverleaf used virtually all of the Aladdin wiring and connectors, and their new equipment was built to accept those connectors. If you cut the connectors off, you don't gain anything, but you potentially lose, in the long run. If those connectors had been cut off, a twelve hour project would have been easily two or three times the labor. Hypoxia is right on.
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