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I absolutely agree with the one comment above about the flame sensor. I am pretty sure that the ignition continues to spark, repeatedly, until it either times out or a flame is sensed. The start-up process would begin with fuel and air being admitted and sparking initiated. If, after the first spark, the resistance at the photo cell is low, it will be seen as a flame present, and further ignition would be stopped. Vito, I am going to be very surprised if you don't have it nailed, now! Yay!!!! Fantastic project, super craftsmanship, way more than I would have been willing to tackle and a great success story in the end!!!

Quick comment. IF you have a pressure tank on your system like what came from the factory on our '06 Dynasty, that would explain why you have good pressure for several seconds. That tank, if you have one, should be "downstream" from your check valve as well as your filters. So it would let you enjoy full system pressure (pump pressure if not connected to shore water, and shore water pressure if connected to that source) for maybe ten seconds or so. You would start seeing a decreasing flow after four or five seconds after which it would drop to whatever your restriction is causing it to be. That tank, if you have one, would likely be blue in color, maybe 12" to 14" long or tall, and maybe 10" to 12" in diameter, and it would be pretty much mid-ship in the same bay as your water connections, hose reel, etc. It will likely be where you can't see it from the "outside world", but maybe access it thru a hatch between your wet bay and an adjacent pass-thru storage bay. ALSO - Looking at Tom Cherry's drawing, if your "City Water" valve is partially open, that would allow city water to run into your fresh tank thus robbing some of your pressure. It would also allow the pump to circulate some of your water back to the tank thus robbing some of your pressure. If this were true, you would experience water coming from your fresh tank overflow line(s) under your coach if you were on city water, and you would likely experience your pump running continuously if you were not connected to city water but your pump switch was in the "ON" position. It's a possibility.

I liked having it up high on the corner like that on our '06 Dynasty much better than where it was on our previous '95 Dynasty. On that older rig, it was in the middle of the back wall, in the roll area where the back wall met the roof, right above the clearance lights. That was right where the dust and dirt always boils up while going down any dusty, dirty or gravel roads. It would boil right up to where the engine was sucking in its combustion air. I couldn't imagine how quickly the air filter would be compromised! IMHO, the placement they used on our coach and on your coach is pretty optimal. Aside from maybe an inch or so possible increase in engine "boost" (if that, once it got thru the air filter) a scoop or cover probably wouldn't benefit much. I thought about that a lot over the 15 years we loved and enjoyed our '06! You bought a beautiful coach! Enjoy!!

Wow, Vito!! Good for you, looks like a huge project!! Hope it goes really well for you!!! Great to see your post. I hope all is well with you and your family. I really miss Tucson, the winter "warmth" and the opportunities to "share a bean" with you from time to time. Stay well and keep having all the fun they'll let you get away with!! JV

Here are a couple of drawings relative to the '06 Dynasty. They may or may not help. The one is a Monaco drawing, and the other is a drawing that I made for our coach. Mine is complete and accurate TO A POINT. I do not guarantee it will match your coach's systems, but it may give you an idea where to look. On our coach, if you look at the drawing I made, you will see that there were two paths to control the low beams. One was thru the "Canadian Headlight Module" mounted on the "ceiling" of the front run box. The second was thru the Smartwheel Controller. On ours, there were no fuses involved with the low beam circuit, only the breaker in the upper left corner of the front run box connected to the terminal designated TS1. NOTE: The low beam lamps were actually powered by this circuit. The high beam lamps only had the relays powered by this circuit. Also, know that in the '06 model year, some of the board #8 designs had relay K1 and K2 controlling the LEFT and RIGHT HI BEAM lamps, which was how our coach was wired. Others had K1 and K2 controlling the HI BEAM and the LO BEAM's separately. This may or may not help you. It was amazing how much variation existed from one coach to the next, thru each model year, as well as from year to year. If nothing else, these drawings may give you an idea of where to check voltages to find out where the 12V "goes away". Good luck! Schematic%20-%20Lights%2C%20Turn%20Signals%20copy.pdf Schematic - Headlights, Run, Clearance, Fog and Dash.pdf

Here are two drawings that might help. One is from Monaco and it is 2006 Dynasty specific. There are coach to coach differences, but it will probably do the trick for you. The other is a drawing that I made that just applied to the brake lighting, primarily. But the left edge "touches on" the turn and tail circuit. Good luck to you!! Schematic - Brake Lights.pdf Schematic - Lights, Turn Signals copy.pdf

I don't know what your rear run panel looks like, but in '06, Monaco fed the front run panel from the rear run panel. All of those circuits were protected by circuit breakers. I'm attaching a drawing I made of the rear run panel on our '06 Dynasty. If they continued that design concept, it might help you check out to see what you have. I will say that your front run panel bears no resemblance to ours, but that's ok. The rear one could still be very similar. In 2006, there were three feeds to the front run panel. One was a chassis battery feed and it was protected by a 150 amp breaker. One was a coach battery feed protected by a 110 amp breaker that was switchable by the "salesman switch" by your entry door. And one was a coach battery feed protected by an 80 amp breaker that was always "hot". Good design practices would have those feed circuits already protected by circuit breakers like the attached drawing shows, or by fuses, most likely by circuit breakers. Layout - Rear Run Panel (Back 2).pdf.pdf

Good morning, "Single with Bear". I am attaching two documents. One is the 120 VAC schematic that is specifically applicable to the 2006 Signature. The other is a photo of the breaker panel front that is in our coach which is also covered by that same drawing. Two observations: First, on our coach, breaker #1 is vacant and on yours breaker #8 is vacant. But I would expect the loads to be the same, overall, just moved to different positions. Curious why they did that, since the drawing is applicable to the '06 Sig's, too. Second, your breaker #7 is a 20-amp breaker. There are two wiring configurations on the drawing for the breaker that I believe to be doing the same job as your #7, one for a 15-amp breaker and one for a 20-amp breaker. It would be useful if you were to check out what outlets are powered and which are not, so you will know the option on that drawing that specifically matches the way your coach is wired. One question I do still have is how that breaker trips. Does it not hold at all? Or does it trip instantly upon reset, after a few seconds, a few minutes, a few hours, a few days? ONCE YOU ARE SURE WHAT ALL IS POWERED BY THIS BREAKER, I would unplug everything that is on it. Then reset it and see if the problem remains with all loads removed. If the breaker holds with all of the possible loads removed, the problem is in the wiring of the coach, somewhere. I say that, because you said you have replaced the breaker, at least once. It is highly unlikely you would have put in multiple bad breakers. If the breaker holds with all of the possible loads removed, I would then plug my devices in, one at a time. That way you may be able to identify a device you are using that has a problem. Let us know what you find. Schematic - 110V Wiring Diagram.pdf.pdf AC Panel - Inverter Supplied.JPG.pdf

Years ago, on our '06 Dynasty, I did what you are wanting to do. I explored, first, with a fairly basic bore scope. I first verified that I could "punch" out of the ceiling heat duct where it makes kind of a "T" above the driver/passenger seat. I went "in" thru the vent above the passenger seat. I was able to push the camera out thru the corner where the east-west side and the north-south side of the duct, at the bottom corner, above the passenger seat, and was able to push it thru enough to see the bundle of wires that ran from the ceiling down into the media cabinet. That told me I could probably make it work. Then, from the inside of the cabinet, I was able to open up to where the same bundle of cables came down from the ceiling. Next, I fished a wire thru from the heat duct end and worked with it until I was able to finally pull a line thru from the media cabinet to the heat duct. Then, I was good to go, without having damaged anything, so far. It was then an easy matter to drill thru the roof and right into the central heat duct. Then I was easily able to pull the new DISH cable down thru the roof, along the center HVAC duct, turning right over the passenger seat, out thru the bottom, outboard, rear corner of the duct, down thru the existing opening with the rest of the cables and into the media cabinet. It worked great. Zero visible wires. Zero visible damage or evidence that it wasn't like that from the beginning. Good luck. Make sure you verify your ability to get thru the worst piece of the path before you start drilling holes. Cheers!

Yup. Had the same problem while having our Silverleaf system installed a few years back. Most commercial air equipment stores should have them. Found ours at A1 Coupling and Hose in Albany, OR. Pretty easy fix once the unknowns were worked out.

Back in the days of Radio Shack, it was easy to get electronics spray cleaners. Such may still be available at places like Lowes or Home Depot, but I haven't looked for it. If you have some, or can find some, that would be one way to perhaps remove a lot of the contamination you may have gotten, if drying it out good doesn't correct your problem. If it were me, I would try dry-scrubbing it with a relatively soft bristled brush to remove any surface contamination, before I tried any water or chemicals. Whatever you do, don't use any chemicals that might significantly compromise the thin protective coating that may be on both sides of the board. Actually, if contamination is the issue, any protective coating may not have been there in the first place, or it is already compromised. If you do "attack" it with anything other than a brush or compressed air, you can power down the AH by pulling the top (on our coach) fuse on board #R5 in the rear run box. There is a second fuse for the AH in the front run box on board #11, fuse #2, rated at 15 amp, but that fuse may or may not be used. I've not tested it on our coach. There are six AH fuses in the Intellitec cabinet, but I don't think you would need to be concerned about them. Four of those (Kitchen HI, MED and LO, and the bathroom exchanger or exchangers) use control power from the AH control panel to operate a relay that then uses the power from the Intellitec equipment to actually power the blowers. There are also two fuses in the Intellitec cabinet to power relays to enable either the electric heating element(s), or the diesel burner system, or both. All six of those fuses feed loads that are just controlled FROM the AH control board, so they should not back-feed power to the control board in any way.

I don't know if I can describe this very well, but I'll share what I did with the control panel on our AquaHot in our '06 Dynasty. I removed all four corner screws allowing the control panel to come off, and it also separated the control chassis from the back of the compartment barrier. I then re-secured the two machine screws on the right side of the control chassis thus securing the right side of the chassis back onto the barrier, but with the control panel still off. Then, I used the remaining machine screw hardware to secure the right two holes on the control panel to the barrier and to the two left side holes on the chassis. This left the chassis securely attached to the barrier, like it was, but with the panel shifted its own width to the left. I then secured the left side of the panel to the barrier with new hardware. I did this because it is FAR easier to see which LED' are lit at any time, even in bright daylight. It also allows easy access to the terminal strips with a voltmeter for any testing. And it makes it easy to access the reset button, if you ever need to do that. (I'm not sure that I have ever had to do that in 15 years of ownership, though.) It is also very easy to refer to the markings on the panel and relate it to what you are seeing on the control board. I am partially color-blind, and it is extremely difficult for me to see when an LED is lit and it is on the other side of a lens. So this change made my life FAR easier!!

Don, controlling the zones involves two control systems. It requires operating the pumps to circulate the fluid and it requires operating the fan(s) to circulate the air. The control for both of these systems comes from the circuit board mounted behind the black panel in your aft basement compartment. I don't know how electrically conductive gray tank water might be, but I would expect it to have more contaminants in it to allow conduction than would fresh water. The terminal strips down both sides of the control circuit board provide the connections to the fans at each of the heat exchangers, and it provides the connections to each of the four circulating pumps that are inside of the AH enclosure. For any of the fans to run, they have to get their power from that circuit board. For heat to be delivered, that zone pump has to be getting its power from that circuit board, as well. So I am thinking that is the only place in the whole picture that would be at the root of your problem. If your shower is located directly above the AH, there is a good chance that a path could exist to let water get onto that control board. Also, the control board is about the only part of the system that is not protected by the housing around the AH. If it were me, I would take the front plate off of that control panel and inspect it for any contamination. That black panel that it is mounted on is likely held in place by Velcro. You can easily pull it forward and take it out of the compartment to get to the back of the circuit board. My goal would be to clean up the board on both sides, the best I could. I suspect that might restore normal operation to your system.

Wow! Several questions: Gray tank must have overfilled? Any idea how much water? Where did the water go (drain from the floor), or did it just stay there? Open your rear bay door (the AquaHot) and see if there's evidence of your water? When you turn off the AH fan switch-pad button in the bath, does the fan turn off or just keep running? No heat mid-ship forward, does that mean the living room/kitchen does NOT put out heat? Do those fans turn on and off like they should, just no heat? Answer these, then I'll see what I can share. Wow!!!

At the very least, uplug and abandon in place. We converted our '06 Dynasty from the Aladdin to Silverleaf. Silverleaf used virtually all of the Aladdin wiring and connectors, and their new equipment was built to accept those connectors. If you cut the connectors off, you don't gain anything, but you potentially lose, in the long run. If those connectors had been cut off, a twelve hour project would have been easily two or three times the labor. Hypoxia is right on.

Hypoxia gave you what you need. In the "2007 Dynasty Rear Run Panel Layout" photo, you need to check the two relays labeled #12. The top one is the "Salesman Switch" disconnect for the Intellitec system and its loads. The bottom one is the "Salesman Switch" disconnect for the rest of the coach-related 12 volt loads. These two relays are set up to operate together, as a pair. You will want to read 12 volts to ground on both large lugs on both of those relays. (For a good source of "ground", there should be a large lug with several connectors tied to it, just to the left of the large relay in the center. That lug should be mounted directly to the back wall of the box.) If you do not see 12 volts on both large lugs of the relay(s), then the the relays are "open" and you will not have power to those systems, devices, lights, etc. (The left large lug on both should be "always hot", and the right side should be controlled by the Salesman Switch.) If both relays are "open", try the switch by the door and check it again. NOTE - Try pressing on the top of the switch and see what you get. Then try pressing on the bottom of the switch and see what you get. I never really satisfied my self that up or down was on or off. It could be that it is a toggling function and only relies on the operation of the switch on either the top or the bottom to make it toggle. These switches are notorious for failing.

Just to jump to a quick "Plan B", on the Olympic peninsula it is likely that you won't need even one A/C. We are almost always able to keep our '06 Dynasty pretty comfortable with only one running. In fact it is only on days where it gets above 80 or 85 that we even have to run two. It takes the mid-90's before we need all three. When we are on 30 amp service, we'll leave only the front one on during the day, and then shut the front one down and leave the bedroom one in service at night. It would be a very rare day that you would need two A/C's up there, and even if you did get a truly "hot" one for them, it wouldn't be for more than a couple or three hours. It's BEAUTIFUL up there!! In Sequim, in mid-July, the average high is 72 and the average low is 55. The 90th percentile high is 80 and the 90th percentile low is 52. Sequim is in the "banana belt" of the Olympic peninsula. You'll have a fantastic time up there, and you will be much more likely to run your heat than you will your A/C. Don't worry about your load-shedding and just ENJOY!!!

About all that it could be would be some kind of a restriction in the engine loop. The ONLY things that were touched were presumably the two hoses, right? A check valve not opening? (if there is one, and if the hoses were reversed at one end or the other) A restriction, or kink in one of the runs they installed? The engine pre-heat zone pump in the AquaHot chose this exact time to seize? Or they could have let some kind of debris or something in the inlet line that worked its way into the pump and stalled the impeller causing a restriction. Two thoughts on this one. Those pumps are not shaft driven. The impellers are magnetically coupled to the drive motor thru the walls of the two enclosures. Second, I don't recall the exact design of the impeller as to whether stopping it from turning would stop the coolant flow or just slow it a bit. Before pulling lines to "prime" them, can you pull both at the engine end and see if you can blow compressed air thru the entire loop, perhaps in both directions? I think you'd only be talking about a couple of liters of ENGINE COOLANT. (This loop does NOT contain AquaHot boiler fluid). You could even take them loose at the AquaHot end first and then the engine end, and capture what is in the lines and re-use it if you don't have any to replace it. (By blowing both directions you could confirm the possible presence or absence of a check valve. That would tell you whether you would need to swap the hoses.) I would not expect to have to prime the lines. The "Engine Heat" only powers the zone pump. That is not in play in the situation Woody O is facing. It doesn't sound like you've torn into anything with tools, yet, and if true, hopefully the task will be minima if and when you dol. I hope this doesn't become a real monster for you, but I actually don't think that it will, especially if you are able to get to the engine end of the hoses relatively easily, and if you are able to do what you need to do without spreading anti-freeze all around the neighborhood. If you need to remove a hose and keep fluids in it, you can use a pair of needle-nose ViseGrip pliers to pinch off the hose prior to removing it. I've done that many times and it works really well. Good luck!!

You are absolutely right! My head was momentarily in a "bad" place. Dang, I hate it when that happens. I do know better! I hope no one stops reading after reading that post, but search on to get your catch. When the typical RV pedestal 30 amp source is used, the splitting of the single 120 VAC leg from the 3-wire 30 amp plug is actually done in the adapter to tie the hot leg of the 30 amp source to the otherwise normally two hot legs of the 50 amp cable plug, in the adapter. As a result, when our coaches are plugged into a 50 amp supply we should see 240 VAC across L1 and L2 in the coach. When we are plugged into a 30 amp supply we should see ZERO VAC across L1 and L2, because they are actually tied together in the 30 to 50 amp adapter. Fortunately for us, the NEC defines the configuration of plugs and receptacles and tries to protect us. Manufacturers of approved devices can generally also be relied upon to produce cords, adapters and devices that also meet those standards. As a result, I believe that the only way a person could mistakenly plug something commercially made into a receptacle and have damaging voltages become present would be if the "in between" device was either self-made, or was commercially made, but modified by someone along the line. Kind of explains why there are so many different receptacle and plug configurations that are dictated by the voltages, number of hot legs and amperage ratings for the circuits they serve.

You are right, Walter. And when you talk about the "old" 3-wire plug, that actually could actually be ok, too, as that should be configured in the receptacle just like the typical 30 amp receptacle in the RV pedestals we enjoy in the RV parks. On those, the two angled, flat blades will have each of the two 120 VAC lines present, and the "bottom"-center terminal should be the neutral. In that case, there isn't a ground provided to the "appliance". But a lack of a ground shouldn't bother the coach systems unless his incoming power protection devices trigger on the lack of a ground being present. I'm really hopeful that if he didn't use a mis-wired adapter and actually get L1 or L2 onto the neutral of his coach power cable. Like you, fingers are crossed that the worst that could happen isn't what did happen.

Take a look at that drier receptacle or plug. Does it have two vertical slots/prongs opposite of one another, kind of an upside down doghouse or half-round looking slot/prong in the middle-top and an upside down "L" slot/prong on the middle-bottom? If so, you should have 120 VAC between each of the two "hot" terminals (the vertical flat ones) and both the neutral (the upside down "L") and the ground (the top, half-round) if your adapter is properly configured for that application, and your failure or damage should not have come from an over-voltage situation. You should see 240 VAC between the two vertical flat terminals. I have a few short questions for you. NOTE: If you don't know the answer to some of these, DO NOT plug it back into the drier receptacle to get the answer for me, just tell me that you didn't check to see or you just don't know. When you were plugged into your drier receptacle, were the lights in the refrigerator working? Could you hear any fans or the compressor in the refrigerator running or trying to run? Did EVERYTHING else in your coach that operates on shore/generator power work properly while you were plugged into your drier receptacle? (I'm not talking about lights, as they are all 12 VDC) Did you run the microwave, or any of your roof AC's, or any of your entertainment equipment while you were plugged into your drier receptacle? Did you purchase or did you make the adapter yourself that you used on the end of your coach shore-power cable to allow it to plug into the drier receptacle? If you purchased it already assembled, exactly what (Manufacturer, product description, etc.) did you purchase? Those answers should help to determine whether you have a lot of damage or the coincidental failure of your compressor and/or control board in your refrigerator. I hope that what the folks above are fearing isn't what actually happened, as that could get pretty complicated. Fingers crossed.

Super, thank you. Not sure how you highlighted a screen print, but that's pretty neat. I'll check it out. Yay! You're right, Steven. Found it and fixed it. Cheers! 👏👍

That'll absolutely do it, Steven. We've all been there, for sure. Another glitch I've encountered was learning to live with 50 amp service and what works and what doesn't, and most everything does. Then, one time, I tried to do that while on the generator, and BAM, I learned that the breaker pair on the generator were only rated for 40 amps and not 50. Live and learn, right? Gotta love these technological monsters that we herd up and down the highways. 😊 Oh, one place where I have seen significant breaker deterioration due to lots of tripping or operating is in the breakers in RV park pedestals. They get used as switches maybe even hundreds of times a year, not to mention the times that we overload them by accident (or on purpose), and they really do eventually deteriorate in their continuous current carrying capability. Cheers, Steven 👍 PS: Thank you for pointing out the signature reference. I'll check that out, next time. I guess I click on the icon to go to it. Glad you mentioned that.

What year, make and model coach do you have? The differences are HUGE. For example, our coach has a breaker panel like the one in your home, only smaller, for the shore power loads. It has another breaker panel just like it for the inverter supplied loads. Some coaches just have a hand full of breakers, total, and may only have one on the inverter for all of the loads that it supplies. So coach info is crucial for telling people what you have so they can better help you. Space heaters draw up to 12 amps. The microwave can draw 10 to 12 amps. The coffee pot can draw maybe 5 to 8 amps. That adds up to around 30 amps. That would be about 3600 watts, which is a lot for many inverters. 96 EVO's suggestion is a good one. If you have an outlet or two that are on shore power only, you're golden, as that load won't go thru the inverter, at all. Alternatively, you can use an H1 load management system. That's the "Human One". When you get ready to run the microwave, turn off the space heater until you have heated that chicken pot pie, then turn the space heater back on. You question - There really isn't a good way to test either the breaker or the inverter, at least with it mounted in the coach. The inverter will pretty much be good until it isn't, and when it isn't you'll know and you'll be grabbing your checkbook or your VISA card. The breaker can get "tired" if it cycles TOO many times, but you're not likely to encounter that condition unless it really is tripping all the time. If you want to do some "testing", the first thing I would do is document all of the significant AC loads in your coach and look at the nameplates to see what the rated load current is on them. (Wal wart chargers don't add up, much, nor do laptops and cell phone chargers. But plug-in appliances surely do, as do space heaters and possibly your home entertainment devices.) I would also establish whether each is fed thru the inverter or directly from one of the shore power AC breakers in your panel. Look at the KW rating of your inverter, and I would try not to plan to exceed perhaps 80% of that load on a continuous basis, although 100% of that load is what it is designed to supply, at least for short periods. Circuit breakers are thermal devices. They actually operate as a function of time and the square of the current. A 20 amp breaker should be able to carry 20 amps for quite a long time. It will probably carry 25 amps for several seconds. It will probably carry 30 amps for perhaps a second. But again, like I mentioned above for the inverter, 80% of rating is a nice value to shoot for, for the long haul when planning loads on a circuit. The 80% number gives you some margin for short term events that cause you to go above your "normal" without causing a problem. I hope I didn't go too far, but these are some ideas for you to consider. 96 EVO and STEVEN P had good suggestions. Cheers, and happy RV'ing!

Just some thoughts. The AquaHot system is really very basic, as complicated as it looks. But there aren't very many potential failure points. If you are getting heat for a time, the burner and/or 120 VAC sources for heating the unit are probably working. You can easily check to see if you are actually running it out of heat in the reservoir by waiting until the exchanger is blowing cool air and then turning on a hot water tap and see if you have warm or hot water available. That will determine very quickly whether the problem is with the heating loop or with the main unit. If you have hot water at the tap and/or the other registers, the problem is either with the operation of the fluid loop or with the fan in the heat exchanger. You are saying it "started to blow cold air". If it is indeed blowing, your problem is probably not with the heat exchanger, but rather with the fluid loop. If it is not actually blowing air, the fan is probably the issue, and that could be with the fan itself, the wiring between it and the AquaHot or the AquaHot control board, itself. By the way, there are a number on LED's on the control panel of the AquaHot on the AHE-100's that will tell you what is running and what is not. They are not numbered intuitively. For example, on our '06 Dynasty, the bedroom is zone #1 and it is operated by pump #1. The bathroom is zone #2 and is operated by pump #2. The basement is actually zone #3, but it shares pump #2 with zone #2. Zone #4 is a spare zone. The front main part of the coach is zone #5 and is operated by pump #3. Then there is also the engine pre-heat zone which is the fourth pump you will find in the enclosure, probably mounted below the other three and on a different axis. So the questions are: 1) Is the fan actually running on the heat exchanger in question? 2) Is the "coolant" in the AquaHot getting hot and/or staying hot? 3) Is the appropriate pump getting power when you observe the problem? (Check the LED on the panel). Potential failure points: 1) AquaHot reservoir having sufficient hot water to do the job. 2) Zone circulating pump actually circulating the "coolant" when the heat is being called for. 3) The check valve in the line coming out of the top of the unit for that zone opening and staying open. 4) The fan is actually operating at the heat exchanger. If you check those things out and you still have the problem, here's a link to the service manual for that unit. http://www.aquahot.com/files/service_manual/AHE-100-02S Service Manual Rev. B 9-27-2011.pdf Let us know how you make out.