Karl Hampton

You might do an online search for RVA jacks, there is a lot of online info and help for RVA such as below for trouble shooting. https://www.rvajack.com/Documents-about-troubleshooting-the-manual-RVA-jack-leveling-systems

What “Jack system” + model do you have? I recently had a similar problem and it was a bad connection to the wires on the underside of the “Jack control panel”, have you checked that?

We have a Splendide 2200 model and are very happy with ours, but we hear complains from others about their dry times and performance. You might do an internet search on Splendide - there is a lot of information already online. There is no question that you can get more done, faster with the stackable types (non-combo), IMHO. In a combo washer-dryer, you're washing and drying in the same drum (1.5-1.92 cu. ft.) so load sizes are smaller. IMHO, wash cycles are similar, but because combo washer-dryers are compact and operate using 115V (vs. 220V), dry times are longer. Instead of washing several, bulky loads of laundry one day every week or so, you'll learn to adjust your laundry habits to launder smaller loads every day or two. Remember, in separate w/d's, dryer drums are 100% larger than washer drums. In your Splendide, you wash and dry in the SAME drum. Therefore, if you wash full loads, you'll need to remove some items (up to 50%) before starting a dry program. Or, wash smaller loads only filling the machine 1/2 full, etc. When you program your machine to wash then dry automatically, load the drum accordingly. We occasionally also use CG laundry when we have large loads like blankets, sheets, towels, etc. Ours is vented and I would strongly urge that type if you get one. We would buy it again if ours stops working.

Looking for repair service recommendations on the West Coast. Our “RVA Jacks” “Automatic JII Leveling System” HYDRAULIC leveling jacks (3 Jack system) have quit working on our 1998 Monaco Signature. (Jacks are up, but won’t go down, buttons don’t work) Red “Power Button” lights up, but other buttons don’t function when pressed. Everything worked fine, then for an unknown reason, all stopped working with jacks in the “retracted position” (up). thanks for any help, Karl

I have the same three point system, but no slides. I shut down the engine, dump the air and MANUALLY LEVEL. I believe the auto level can be calibrated if you wish, but I actually prefer manual leveling, starting with the front first. The auto isn’t any faster IMHO, after you have practiced a few times and decide where you need to place the level used for leveling. I found a spot on my kitchen counter that works perfectly for me.

Thank you for your ongoing efforts with the site. We are deeply appreciative 😎

I have been using this the past couple of years and it seems to help. Thetford Drain Valve Lubricant Usage: 1.Normal Lubricating Procedure: After emptying holding tanks,close valve(s), pour 1/5 botle into each holding tank (Toilet & sink/shower), Use holding tank as usual. 2 Sicky Drain Valves: Pour 1/5 botle into each holding tank Containing4 gallons of water. Mix by driving or moving Venicie. Open and close valvels) several times, keeping as much water in tank(s) as possible. Tanks are now ready tor nomal operation. Use markings on label to measure. NOTE: various mechanical problems may result in dificuft valve operation which cannot be corrected by use of the \uonca For best results, use Drain Valve Lubricant routinely. Use n uncion withtheThetordfamilyofholdingtank aditves. Store below 100°F KEEPOUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. CAUTIONC: contains a non-toxic surfactant. Avoid eye contact. FIRSTAID: In event of eye contac., rinse eyes with water for 15 minutes.

I have the Allison 4060 transmission and a cummins M11 450 HP engine. The Allison owners manual online says normal operating temperature is 160F to 200F and the danger zone is 230 degrees F. Mine runs in the mid 190s normally, but will go up to 200-205F on a long pull on a warm day. karl ‘98 Signature

Have been using this TST 507 flow through for about two years and 6 years before that with the old one. They were always very responsive to any questions or problems. It has worked well and is entirely satisfactory for me, I would buy it again without hesitation. karl 98 Sig

RV RULES - 3/3/3 or 2/2/2/2 • JUST STOP - if you aren’t sure what to do, or where to go • The trip isn’t a race - Enjoy the journey as much as the destination • Limit Driving to 300 miles (or 6 hours per day) • “Ideal Travel Day” is 9a.m to 3p.m. • Arrive at new destination at least 2 hours before dark • Stay at least 3 days ( one week stay is optimal if lots to see ) • It cost less to stay than to go ( 240 miles / 8mpg = 30 gallons x $3+ = $90+ ) • Always review your checklists before traveling • We average 50 mph (with stops) - calculate travel time on that basis • Do not start unless you have enough fuel - or know where to get it • Do not start until you or the "navigator" knows the route • Stop at rest stops - stretch, etc., at least once every 3 hours. • If there is snow on the ground - you did something wrong! • If it is over 89 degrees or 89% humidity - you did something wrong! “The problem with living on vacation is that it’s EXHAUSTING. If you vacation like the point is to see as much as you can in as short of a time as you can - or to cover as much ground as you can, as quick as you can - then you may end up exhausted and need a vacation from the vacation.” Define your goal or purpose for the trip! As a traveler, it’s a challenge to define what our purpose is: Are we just wandering? Do we want to see X, Y and Z? Specifically see this person/thing Or ? Is a few days too short of a stay? Is a few weeks or months too long? If we only stay 2-3 days does that mean we’re missing seeing something important? These days it costs less to stay than to go! Per day Avg cost $45 to stay and average $90+ to go ( it cost less to stay than to go ), why not stay? Hmmm? The RVing 2/2/2/2 rule is a safe and effective way to plan your travel. It means drive no more than 200 miles a day, stop every 2 hours, and stay 2 nights in each place, arrive at an overnight destination by 2:00 p.m.? Maybe? Our rv rules developed over the past few years for our comfort and enjoyment. 😎 Karl

I have the same problem (with drivers and dinning table window) and would prefer a shop in CA or Oregon if anyone has a recommendation. karl 98 Signature

You might contact RV Glass Solutions and ask their opinion. When we did ours there a few years ago, we called and asked- they said it should be safe to drive and explained why because of the way the windshield was made, etc. No guarantee, but they thought it would probably be okay. We drove about 300 miles to their facility with no problem. PS - they did an excellent job. Would definitely recommend them. karl 98 Sig

What “alarm parameters” are you using in your TST? You may need to adjust your parameters? Yesterday afternoon it was 90* and this a.m. it is 51* so my parameters for my 100 PSI tires are 92 PSI and 120 PSI. We regularly drop to 94-96 PSI in the morning and hit 116-118 when driving in the afternoon. A couple of times in the the desert we were going into the 120s PSI so we had to adjust the parameters. In 8 years of using TST I haven’t had problems with false alarms? Fortunately only 1 real alarm that needed attention and a new valve stem (slow leak). A couple of low battery alarms, so now I just change batteries in the sensors every year, although that isn’t necessary, it is just something I do.. When starting up - I turn the TST unit on a few minutes before starting the engine and check the PSI, it takes a few minutes, maybe 3-5 for all sensors to register, then we r good to go.

I have been using the TST for several years. I have the flow through type on the coach and towed. East to air up and the system has worked well for me. Recently changed all the batteries and that went smoothly. I am happy with TST👍

Our experience has been, two new AC units in a 40’ MH lowers temperatures 20-30* depending on humidity. Keep the AC on 24/7 or from early morning into the day, don’t try to cool from 95* down to 70*. Playing catch up is more difficult than maintaining the temp @ 75* or whatever temp you prefer. If you leave doors and/or windows open while running the AC 🤔🥴🤷‍♂️ Normal ingress & egress excepted. 1998 Signature

Mine was beaten up due to age, wear n tear, etc. We had a auto body/upholstery shop recover and rebuild the frame. Had a specialty plastic Company replace/build (replicate) the top plastic cover. Fortunately they did a good of labeling the wiring, etc, so it all went together okay. One switch broke (idle up/down), one switch gave us some troubled (grounding issues), but after extensive search and a good “electric technician” we were able to replace it and solve all issues. That is an option if you find good shops to do it. Cost about $500 total.

I read that article, doesn’t it say “a draft” of concepts? My question is: When and where did the draft become offical? .,,,CARB recently released a 52-page draft of their regulatory concepts. We sifted through the legalese and technotalk and put together a synopsis of what we thought would apply to mandatory motorhome emissions testing. What will it mean for both California owners and those who’d like to visit the state? We ran our thoughts under CARB’s nose. Summary of the new system Here’s a summary of how the new system will work. That is, at least in terms of how CARB staff envision the matter at this point. ...

Is this new 2023 CA diesel law for sure? I know there was previously an exemption for RV/MH diesels in the law. Where would I find the new official “new CA law” that does away with the exemption?

I have a Winegard Pathway, and it looks like the one in your picture. I have been using it for about 8 years with Dish service. Easy to use, good reception, very reliable for me so far and I would recommend it - if it is the same as what u have in the picture? karl

When mine did as you describe, it was caused by a blockage in the cooling unit. The Norcold cooling unit was about 5 years old, at the time. There are self diagnosing directions on line for cooling unit blockage or any authorized Rv repair shop could do it. If that is it - you will need a new cooling unit or new frig. Allegedly a possible temporary cure is to rap the coils to dislodge the blockage, but if that works, it is temporary. As others have noted, there are other possibilities, the circuit board, burner unit, etc. I replaced the burner and it turned out to be the wrong burner, so be sure you get the correct one if you go that route. karl

I have the 98 executive wiring book, it is about 60 pages long. Do you still need it? I can scan it, but need instructions on how and where to upload the file here on our forum? karl 98 Sig

Thanks for all of your hard work Scotty 👍 , Merry Christmas!

I think we concluded that the extra two prongs were the supply for the light bulbs for illumination - as all the switches on the panel are illuminated, so not needed, but aesthetically pleasing 😎

I was able to find an electric repair shop the was able to replace the switch through Micro Switch (the original manufacturer) and it now works fine. Thanks for all the help. It was a rather convoluted combination of switches, wiring and parts, but they figured it out. I also acquired a 99 Executive wiring manual, which luckily matched my 98 Signature wiring. I also had the DS plastic switch panel rebuilt, which is where the switch and others reside. karl H

Should we have an option for a Weekly Digest If it were instead of, I wouldn’t like it if “in addition to,” then fine