granvillebarker

I also had sheet metal screws on each side. Monaco ran them into the wood on each side. There are also the 2 sharp screws at an angle that hold it to the mount. I had the same issue last year and the parts to fix it were less than $10 on amazon. 19 years old and still cooking!

I have run a lot of cables around my coach, ethernet and others. I ran two ethernet from front to back through the AC chase that goes from front to back. My dynasty has one of those "do not use" cabinets over the bedroom TV, I have the wifi router and home assistant computer inside it. Since it backs up to the bathroom, I have one ethernet that goes down behind the tv, through the bathroom into the basement. I think all roadster chassis's have an extra pipe running front to back along one of the frame rails for your extra wires. I used it on my 2002 Windsor, and on my 2005 Dynasty. That's your best route if you want to go front to back via outside.

We got ready to break camp Saturday morning and my slides would not retract, the big one got about 80% in and the hydraulic pump motor stopped. I checked all the fuses and they are good, and I also had power to the soleniod strapped to the side of the motor. I ended up tapping the end of the motor a few times with the handle of my screwdriver and it started working again. I watched a YouTube video about a guy tearing apart his motor and replacing the brushes. I pulled my motor off last night to clean and check the brushes, and my motor was nothing like his (luckily). His motor was smaller, the one on my unit was 3.5" in diameter with the two screws spaced 3" apart. If you tap on your motor to fix it, tap the end, not the sides! This 3.5" motor has very large wedged shaped brushes, you can see in the attached photo. For springs push them down onto the stator, they engage on the end rather than the sides like most motors. I removed the black tray the holds them, cleaned them all and reassembled it. It really wasn't that dirty; hopefully the cleaning keeps it going for another 18 years without issues. The two small Philips screw remove that small cover, those screws also hold the brush assembly to the end of the motor. It has access to the brush springs under it behind the little plastic plugs, but I didn't remove them as I didn't want to break them. It was pretty easy to get the motor off and back on through the hatch in the step, and it took about 1 hour start to finish. Hopefully this will help someone down the road. Granville Barker - 2005 Monaco Dynasty

My Dynasty came with the Sani Con when new, I've used it for 18 years with only a few problems: The first time it stopped (about a year after we bought the coach) in the middle of dumping the black tank, and I tried using my electric drill driver to turn the shaft from the screw slot on the other end, but it was too slow. I ended up taking the back off the motor and finding that the thermal overload sensor was corroded and not connecting. I bypassed it and dumped the tank. At this point it was still in warranty and RV Sani Con sent me a replacement. I drilled several holes in the box to make sure the motor stayed cool and dry after the first failure. As I recall the box was pretty moist when that first motor died, and I'm pretty sure that caused the corrosion. The replacement worked flawlessly until last year. I thought it was dead, but after taking it apart and cleaning it out it worked for another year. When I got the motorhome out this year, it was dead and we are using the old hose dump method. It has really spoiled me, so when I get time, I will repair it again either with a new pump or whatever it takes to get this old one going again. I have had to replace the both hoses, the big one once, and the small one a couple of times. Both hoses got cracks and started leaking at different times. One time, I accidentally let the small hose touch the hot aqua hot exhaust, and that quickly burned a hole right through it. Granville Barker

Mike, Is your salesman switch on? Last time I chased down that issue someone had turned off the switch by the door. The air leveling on our coaches appears to get power from the house side. — Granville Barker

Okeechobee isn’t far from you and with all the sugar farms there I’d bet they have just the type welder Ivan is describing.

Insurance companies use some resource to verify lightning strikes. My agent was able to tell me a strike happened within 1000 feet of a property I had filed a claim on about five years ago.

You can also get the tool to take apart the solenoids on amazon: Nitrous Express 15733 Solenoid Maintenance Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GBJOPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VTT1X0W8HYN1N2HFXMCZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Here are amazon links for the o-rings I have been using: 019 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051Y15T0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share 015 Viton O-Ring - 75A Durometer, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R43GCNL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XDE3FDQW7N0QS7NNEPQ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 028 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXBGXXV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Make sure to get some o-ring grease for them.

Wow, this is an active subject. I just redid all my docking lights. I found the marine replacements but didn’t want to spend that much. I didn’t want them brighter either - wouldn’t want them blinding other drivers if they were accidentally turned on while driving. I took them apart and put LED bulbs in them. If you take them out there are two screws under all the sealant on the back. Take them out and you can get the bulb out. The filament bulb is screwed into the back of the lens, theres one small screw. I then removed the old bulb from the holder, bent the holder until my LED bulb would fit. I soldered wires to the bulb and glued it all In palce with pro seal. For The two rectangular ones on the back i ripped then filament out of the bulb and used a Phillips head screwdriver (use safety glasses too) to make the whole big enough for an LED bulb and glued them and then covered the backs with eternabond. I have a pic of these in progress but can’t find my pics of the oval ones. — Geanville Barker 05 Dynasty

Bryan, Just curios what pressures your running in your toyos. I weighed just before leaving on this trip and ended up putting the front at 115psi, rear at 105psi, but I think I should lower that to 85 or 90, and tag is at 70 psi. I have 3150 lbs on each tag wheel, 6250 on that axle. I have just under 20K on the rear axle, and just over 14K on the front axle. -- Granville Barker

As for the sound, it could be that board or one like it. The round part you see peeking through the black heat shrink is a piezo buzzer. Older ones like ours will chirp quieter especially at lower voltages. There must be one tied to temperature too; its interesting to learn about alarms that may be on my coach that I have never heard in 19 years of ownership. Perhaps its in the manual or schematics. I should probably read it again.

I have an ISL-400-2. I think 8.4 is the best we can get out of the drivetrain. The coach is well stocked and we are towing a Jeep 4xE. Taking the generator into consideration, probably 7.5 like you are seeing. At what speed can you maintain 8.4? In thinking more about it my initial 20 miles was probably much higher because of idling while waiting for air to build and checking tire inflations, plus stop-go traffic getting out of town.

Definitely one of the beepers, either blinkers, tag axle, or low air. I have seen two of them in my dash, there may be more.

We hit the road this week, and for the first 30 miles I was driving 65, fuel economy was about 5.5mpg. We were not in any hurry and didn't have far to go that day, so I slowed down to 55. Gas milage went up to 8.4 mpg, and I was able to do that again today. So for 250 miles of travel, only about 30 gallons. We were on mostly 4-lane that wasn't busy, so I wasn't slowing anyone down. Going slower than 55 didn't seem to increase economy. The allison economy mode didn't seem to make any difference. -- Granville Barker 05 Dynasty