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bobbylinn52

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Everything posted by bobbylinn52

  1. THANKS TO ALL! THIS IS RESOLVED. This blind sow found the acorn. As Tom and Myron suggested I started at the trailer plug and began following the cabling. I did not find a loose connecto, but a connector completely unplugged with the snap latch broken. I reconnected the plug, tested and then zip tied the plug together as it was very easy to pull apart without the snap latch.
  2. Tom, Thanks for the reply. I tried all six terminals with a VOM using the ground jumper from the chassis batteries. I tried all six terminals with the ignition off, on and running. I also checked the 4 pin plug the same way. I have found fuses for the L & R turn signals, brakes, and tail lights. All test good using a VOM. I inserted a pin into the wires for the ground and brake lights then checked continuity between these pins and the contacts in the female trailer plug. There is continuity on these two wires. In the battery compartment is the device shown below. Two wires are labeled; "trlr chg gnd and trlr chg". The other two wires I haven't found labels on them yet. I have not unplugged this device. Is this a relay?
  3. I have a 2007 Safari Cheetah. Last week, Tuesday October 10, I removed the battery boost solenoid with the intent of installing a Blue Sea ML-ACR but ran out of time so I reinstalled the old continuous duty boost solenoid. On Thursday, October 12, I hooked up the TOAD, for a trip, and no electrical power. There is no power or ground to the 7 or 4 way plug. I took photos of the wiring before I remove the battery. boost solenoid and rewired it exactly as in the. photos. I have checked all of th fuses I know about or can find, with a meter, for trailer signals, brakes, lights. All are good. Today I ran a ground wire from the chassis battery ground. to the rear of the coach to test continuity. There is continuity to the frame but not to the ground in the trailer plug. I connected the know ground. to the ground in the trailer plug but still no power for any of the lights. I pushed a T pin into the ground wire by the plug and have continuity through the plug. I and focussing on the ground assuming since everything is dead it is a ground issue. I even put the jumper onto the house batteries, just to check, no continuity to the plug ground there either. I did not expect the plug to be grounded to the house batteries. I am lost at this point. Is there a breaker I don't know about? The Safari Cheetah only has the electrical bay in the left front under the drivers window. I have search this site and found nothing similar to this. I just LOVE electrical issues.
  4. I have a 2007 Cheetah. I have a switch for the bay lights on the panel in the wet bay. I had this same issue and found the switch in the wet bay to be in-between off and on. When I put it into the on position the lights came on and the switch just inside the entry door worked also.
  5. Tom, Unfortunately my Trombetta is in the battery bay in right rear just behind the axle. I expect to have to pull at least one wire but will pull more just in case for later use.
  6. Thanks again for all of the GREAT research, information and trouble shooting help. I am going to install the ML-ACR that I have and not try to repair the sensing circuits installed by Monaco. I have tested the trip wires feeding the Trombetta and it does not have power unless the boost switch is held down. There are actually two wires on the trip terminal, purple and white. I have not taken these wires off and tested individually but when on the terminal there is no power unless the boost switch is depressed. The white wire on the second small terminal appears to be a ground wire. My next step will be to get a long test wire and trace down the purple and white wires. I hope they both go to the front of the rig so I can use them for the ML-ACR remote switch. Again THANKS TO ALL!
  7. Rick, The relay on the bottom board in the images I posted definitely says “Isolate Defeat Relay”. I will install the ML-ACR. Thanks for all the guidance and help.
  8. Rick N. I have checked the voltages as you suggested above. The black wire is ground The blue wire is a switched +13.7 VDC with the ignition on engine not running, 0 VDC with the ignition off The red wire has +13.7 VDC with the engine running There are a couple of purple wires from the board labeled "Isolated Defeat Relay" and a couple of Red wires. Neither of the purple wires have voltage on them, engine off or running. I did not meter the red wires, shame on me. In the photo below you may note a purple wire disconnected and taped. This is the wire that originally triggered the salesman switch relay that I deleted. The Trombetta solenoid in the battery bay does not have control voltage unless the battery jump switch is activated, engine running or not. I believe this solenoid is rated for continuous duty. I am prepping for a 3 week trip departing next week. What is your opinion of the golf tee under the boost switch or installing the Blue Sea ML-ACR 7622 without the remote switch wired in. I would leave the ML-ACR in the auto mode. I would do this till I return from our trip and can run the wires for the remote switch in the cockpit.
  9. Well, I have done some more digging in the Cheetah. Below are pictures of two relays in the front left hand electrical bay under the driver. I am thinking one or both of these could be my issue with alternator charging house batteries. Can anyone tell me if these would be plugged into or soldered into their boards? I gently tried to pull on them and they did not move any. Also how would I test these? I am MUCH better with mechanical systems than electrical.
  10. Again, Thanks to all for the information above. I have more homework to do but feel I better understand the systems I'm dealing with. I will not install the Blue Sea ML-ACR till I better understand what is happening currently.
  11. Tom, Does it matter if I remove the Trombetta and install the Blue Sea ML-ACR if I have a battery isolator somewhere that I have not found? Evidently if I do have an isolator it is not working properly. I have owned this unit since 2015 and the house batteries have never charged from the alternator. In 2021 I converted my never cold to an 120V JC Refrigeration compressor unit so now I would like to have house charging from the alternator. Thanks to all for the assistance in the replies above.
  12. 2007 Safari Cheetah SFD C7 Cat, 350 HP My house battery bank, four GC2 batteries, doe NOT charge when traveling, engine alternator. The house bank charges fine on the generator and shore power. The alternator is outputting 14+ volts keeping the chassis bank, two group 31 starting batteries charged fine. I can tie the two banks together with the boost switch in the cockpit. The Trombetta solenoid is working as expected. I cannot find anything in the electrical or battery bays that looks like or is tagged as a battery isolator. Would or should this coach have a battery isolator? Can I install a Blue Sea 7622 ML-ACR, which I have, inlace of the Trombetta to allow the house bank to charge from the engine alternator? Unfortunately I do not have the wiring diagrams for this coach. Thanks, in advance. Bobbylinn52
  13. Thanks for confirming my thoughts on this.
  14. 2007 Safari Cheetah C7 Cat, 350 HP I have installed the JC Refrigeration 120V compressor cooling system on my Norcold 1200. When driving I power the cooling unit using the Magnum 2000W inverter. I can run about 7 hours before the house (4-GC2 wet cell) batteries reach 12.2 volts. I would like to charge the house batters from the alternator while driving once the chassis batteries are fully charged. Will the Blue Seas ACL accomplish this? Would I need anything else? Below are images of the wiring I have currently. I don't believe I have an isolator anywhere.
  15. I had the same issue with the 21' patio awning on my 2007 Safari Cheetah. You are correct the wiring feeding the awning was too small to supply adequate amperage to the awning motor. In February 2020 I had a run in with a wind gust on a high bridge in SW Louisiana necessitating the replacement of the awning. The new awning from Carefree has a tensioner spring in the roller tube which causes the awning to retract better. Prior to the new awning I kept the pitch set to the least amount so the awning would retract most of the time. I don't know if Carefree would sell just the tensioner so you can retrofit your existing roller tube.
  16. I have used the NSA Ready Brute tow bar with built in surge brake with a Blue Ox base plate on a 2013 Wrangle Unlimited since 2015. I have been VERY pleased with this set up. I suggest you investigate this product. I also use their Ready Stop break away emergency brake system. https://www.readybrake.com
  17. Set the step control switch to retract. Place a magnet on the door switch. The steps should stay retracted till you remove the magnet.
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