LJPierce_ELY

Tom, I will keep this as a to do. Many thanks for the suggestions. Although the coach is not being used full time for the family, I am using it as full time housing for me since I'm in another state working away from home for possibly the next few years. So your suggestions are not falling on deaf ears. Thanks again to everyone for their knowledge and assistance.

I'll take care of that tomorrow. I'm feeling beat up from the feet up. It wouldn't surprise me if that works. Monaco put the inverter and the ATS is the same bay with the Gray and Black tanks. That just seems dumb. There is some blue corrosion in one of the unused jacks. I'll get in there and see if I can clean them out. Well, that figures. I always get something difficult.

Nope. That wasn't it. It was either one, the other, or both of the following. Pedestal breaker, and/or POS IOTA 50R. After I got everything done and put back together, I fired up the generator and everything worked, except the RC7. It's still dead. I then tried shore power and had nothing. Needless to say I got a little despondent. But never fear, I sucked it up and went to start tracing back from the pedestal when the park owner came walking by and wondered what I was doing. I told him and he checked the pedestal and found a breaker that wasn't resetting. Got that done and BAMMO, I got shore power everywhere including all the systems that were dead. (Except the RC7). So, it was all the ATS, or a possible combination. In any event, I now have Generator power too so it was a win. I got rid of that Arson Special IOTA. Thanks everyone for the ideas and guidance. I don't think I would have accomplished this without y'all helping out. Until the next post, keep the sunny side up and the greasy side Down. Peace

Well, the replacement ATS is allowing the generator to work and everything that was dead, is back. Including the rear Air Conditioner and microwave. The A/C display is now lighted and doing it's thing however, the RC7 remote control is still dark so I still have a problem with something. Now, I'm going to shut off the Air Conditioners and then shut down the Generator. Hopefully everything will come back on using shore power. We shall see.

P I can confirm rear Air water heater, tv and dvd above front and a/c plugs on curb slide are inop. I also confirm Front roof air, fridge and roadside plugs are working on that slide also working. I am in the middle right meow of yanking the IOTA ATS. Although I found no scorching like I've seen, I did find the plastic above the Generator relay to have been heated and bowed upward. So I think it safe to presume that the IOTA is at least bad on the generator side. Once I get the new ATS installed, I will advise. Should still be a couple hours. Hopefully less. It's too hot to be doing this madness.

Now that is detailed. Let me get the IOTA replaced and go from there. I already know it's bad because it won't switch over to Generator power. I'm reducing my overnight power usage to just the Air Cond. and a couple of fans to minimize power usage until I can get the IOTA replaced tomorrow and I'm hopeful that will take care of the problem. If not, then everything will be tightened and I'll start with the above tests. When I went and got the replacement ATS today, the parts guy at the dealer in Reno was shocked that there was still an IOTA in use. I asked him if he wanted it for a museum of what not to do, but got the impression he'd much prefer me to just take it out and use it for target practice. I will oblige. Does anyone have a schematic of how those IOTA's are wired? I'd like to be able to easily tell what wire goes to what without having to unravel spaghetti. A thank you in advance AND for everything else that's been typed on this.

I stand corrected. I typed that out in a hurry. Yes. #7. I did not switch the breakers. After another response, I checked the power on the main breakers from the Brown covered panel which apparently gets powered up from the Auto transfer Switch. The right main breaker on that panel, which should have power, is dead. So, instead of mucking around with playing with an otherwise potential arson special with the darned IOTA, and the fact that I want my Generator back online instead of being a useless weight to be hauled around (when I'm in Mo-bile Domi-cile mode), I'm just replacing the IOTA. I will feel much better doing that. Then, if I still have a power problem, it will then be diagnosed as either the pedestal, my head connector, or somewhere around the power box next to the power cord reel.

To keep it simple in my head, if I'm reading everything right, I've got a problem somewhere between the Pedestal up to and including the POS IOTA ATS. Would that be a fair summation? On the presumption that the ATS has gone or is in the process, I'm going to head to Reno and pick up a replacement ATS.

I just checked those 50 amp breakers and sure enough, the right one is not registering anything. If both of those inputs come from the transfer switch, and one is dead, then that would mean the transfer switch, the shore power cord, or even possibly a breaker on the Pedestal, would be bad, correct? Would this ATS be an acceptable alternative to the Esco LPT50-BRD? From what I've been reading, there is a definite and palpable hatred of IOTA and I get it. If the dang IOTA is causing this, then I need to get it replaced most quickly if not sooner. https://www.campingworld.com/50-amp-automatic-transfer-switch-50065.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu7OIBhCsARIsALxCUaPyVFmP4W981bVzdQgUtGcnY4Qk1nejQ7f2TJc28rCyW1O7O3X3rXIaAm1OEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I've been mucking around for the past hour and a half, of course with the occasional break for morning coffee. And I think I've managed to possibly get myself even more confused as I go along to the point that I'm thinking RV electrician. I am attaching 2 pictures. Both of which should look familiar to the knowledgeable peeps on here. The gray one is, of course, the left side breaker box in the bedroom. The second, brown one, is where the intellitec board was indeed found. (I looked carefully at that board, it's a Model 760) and it looks fine. No burned smells coming from the box and no scorched earth policy undertaken by the imaginary gremlin sharing my living space. Several things I've found. First off. The gray panel. Breaker 2, shuts off circuits as advertised, Test trip button also tripped the breaker, as advertised. Breaker 3, 3rd from the bottom, Inverter L1, when tripped, does nothing. No change to power status and no circuits noticed as turning off. (Don't jump to a conclusion yet, please read on.) Breaker 5, no change. (If you will recall, using the microwave/convection was the original cause of this whole mess) Breaker 6, 6th from the bottom, Inverter L2, when tripped, appears to shut off the remaining AC outlets but does NOT turn off the front roof mounted A/C (air conditioner) Breaker 7, does nothing when tripped (Kitchen AC plugs which aren't working right now because of the main problem) That being said, I attempted to trip it via the GFC test button and it did NOT trip. Now, onto the Brown Panel. Inverter L1 breaker when tripped shuts down the currently working A/C plugs. (On the gray panel, shutting off L1 did NOTHING) Inverter L2 breaker when tripped has no apparent effect anywhere. (On the gray panel it shut off some A/C plugs) So, what I have found here is that between the 2 panels, on the Gray panel L1 does nothing but on the brown panel L1 shuts things off. As for L2, on the Gray panel shuts things off, but on the brown one, it does nothing. Also, Breaker 7 might have a problem unless it's normal that at GFC breaker won't trip when pressing the test button, if there is no power to that circuit. So, in final, what does the above stuff tell us?

Got into it this evening, at least as far as the power cord goes, from the pedestal to, and into, the coach. The power cord, despite all my hopes, is not the culprit. I have power moving through the necessary two wires and into the junction box next to the reel. No change when I rotated the reel either. I used a FLUKE multimeter I borrowed from the electrical guru at work. So, It isn't the power cord. One thing I did find was a CAMCO plug on the portion that plugs into the pedestal. So someone has already played with it and I am going to redo it. It doesn't meet my high repair standards. (Basically avoid the use of Electrical Tape where it's going to come apart!) I'm going to try and spend the morning reading up on some of the replies contained herein in regards to the Intellitec board, as well as using the multimeter to see if I can figure this out. AND I found the power outlet in the storage compartment that has access to the back of the water heater and what I call "The Water Bay". It is NOT a GFCI outlet. I will update if, strike that, when. Yes, WHEN I manage to eradicate this little gremlin. And thank you to everyone who has posted something. It is all appreciated. And a big thank you to Mr. Cherry. I will be attempting to proceed as you so described in much detail.

Mine winds up more forward. I'm borrowing a multimeter from the electric guru here. I'll test the junction box where the cord hooks into. If it looks good to that, then I have eliminated a couple problem areas. Of course, I will advise.

My power cord is on an electric retract reel. Not easily replaced. How it's wired in I have to research. Right now, the only thing I might suspect on this is the plug end. It's been messed with prior to my ownership and I haven't been happy with the plug due to electrical tape and generally poor condition of the cabling at that plug. It's been on my to do list and will be addressed ASAP. The inverter I'm going to leave it as is until I get some other things looked at. I may have a mechanic here at work that knows this stuff. If so, and he's a lover of whiskey, I'll get some bribe booze purchased to see if he can nail this down.

When I got home last night I tried to get the inverter out so I could open it up. However, it has too many wires other than just the cables so I resorted to just removing the top cover. That didn't get me any closer. Large circuit board on to with heat sinks on either side prevented me from getting anywhere near where I need to be. Being that working on it when the outside temperature was above 100, was quite miserable, I just let it sit and will have to work on it Friday. I did look at my main shore power cord and it needs to be looked at further. Possible issue there. And that intellitec panel was noticed in the bedroom. I never paid attention to the labeling. That's it for the moment.

Thank you. I will take a look see this evening.

The breaker panels are in the bedroom with another board that has spots for 25 dc fuses, of which 21 are used. I see nothing else there. All the digital panels are forward, above the passenger seat, behind their own cabinet door. I must be overlooking something.

Tom, that was one heck of a detailed write up. Many thanks. Lots to look at tonight. It's so dang hot here in NV right now that I'm thinking of looking at the inverter and opening it up (after removing it of course). There are a couple of GFC breakers in the bedroom breaker panels so not having a GFCI receptacle makes sense. It really wouldn't surprise me to find an internal fuse was blown inside the inverter. When the system went out, I know I was using the convection function AND the rear Air Cond. was also running. Probably overloaded the L2 on the inverter. I say L2 because when I trip that breaker, nothing dies (probably because that circuit is already dead). I've used the convection oven before but have to admit, this time the display on the oven really went dim, then off. Like I said, just like a breaker tripping. I don't recall using it when the rear Air Cond. has been running before this. Anyway, thanks again for the detailed assist. I'll endeavor it this evening.

Where is the board located? Backside of the EMS display? Would this also affect the AC plugs on the curb side?

I did not see that.

I saw that. Problem is, I am hooked up to 50 amp and prior to my mucking around with the breakers, the LED next to 50 amp was lit yet the large digital display in the middle was dark. I played around with the breakers again, along with everything else including the inverter, and now that display is back to reading 50amp service, middle display is dark, and everything on the right is lit up as well. I opened up the cabinet up front where the TV is installed. Everything looks OK, messed around with as many of the electrical wires that I could lay my hands on, everything seemed tight. I was hoping that the AC outlet in there was a GFCI type but it wasn't. On that subject, where in the motorhome is one of those GFC outlets? I have looked everywhere and either there isn't one, or if there is, it's hidden so well that I just can't find it. As has been pointed out, ad nauseum, I know the IOTA ATS is a POS and needs to be replaced most Ricky-Tick. To that end, I can probably do it this weekend, if I can pick up a replacement ATS at Camping World. Would replacement of said POS ATS fix this most distressing problem? I have my doubts other than making the coach safer from becoming an Arson Special. Absent finding anything else wrong, I am beginning to think that L1 or L2 on the inverter has given up the Ghost. I am fooling around in a realm that I admit I am not fully knowledgeable about.

Got back to the coach and removed the panel on the front of the inverter. No breakers inside. Just wiring and terminals. All breakers within the coach were cycled again, including the L1 and L2 breakers for the inverter. I cycled them all. No change. My Smart EMS is now showing as indicated, whereas before I cycled the breakers the led next to 50amp was lit and the middle display that now reads 21, was dark. I also included a pic of the inverter I have installed. Another reply said to check the generator breaker and although it was found tripped or off, turning it on didn't solve anything. I still have most of my lighting and the TV as well as all the AC plugs in the rear of the coach are working as are the roadside plugs and front Air Conditioner. Rear Air Conditioner is inop as is the water heater. I haven't pulled the front TV out because it's a total B word to do it but I understand from another reply, that it's a center of where the electrics on the curb side come together. Any other suggestions?

Ok. That is helpful. Also answers one of my questions on that damn IOTA. So I can wire shore power through and temporarily cut out the Genny. Seems much safer than leaving that ATS wired in. I'll try and get to that this weekend. As for the inverter, I didn't know about it dividing into two outputs until reading on here.

Simple answer on the IOTA, lack of funds. It is in my plan to replace it ASAP once I get caught up on bills. I'm not retired. I am currently at an RV park. Power from pedestal is working otherwise my A/Cs wouldn't be running.. This power issue seems like a blown something, or couple of something's. I'll take a look at the inverter again. Last night when I attempted to reset it, I only saw the one pushbutton breaker on the front of it. There are more? Where are they? Do I have to disassemble? Thanks for the ideas so far.

I'll give that a looksee when I get home from work tonight. It really wouldn't surprise me one bit to find that the ATS is the culprit but for some reason I'm thinking it's something else. I still have power to the front A/C and the rear of the coach plugs all work. You might be on the right track with a possibly faulty circuit breaker, or maybe something else related to that. Either way, I'll check those terminal screws in the ATS tonight.

As a belated followup. Had no choice but to finally use a left over water hose insulator (sort of like a pool noodle but not in a neon color), and we put it on the awning support. I'll be danged if that didn't stop that annoying noise!!! Wish I'd done it a long long long time ago. Would have saved me quite a bit of ibuprofen subduing various headaches.