Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

Required Information

  • FirstName
  • Make
  • Model
    Patriot Thunder
  • Year

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thank you, Chris, for taking the extra effort to verify for me. Just as a guess, perhaps the difference in model numbers with Richard's 651816C versus what I finding now as 651816H explains something. At least now I think I could plan for the 651816HXX1C0-01 and perhaps get flexibility of either thermostat depending on wall space I can find. When they become readily available, I am desiring polar white 15K (high capacity) heat pumps and not just A/C only units. Again, many thanks!
  2. Richard (Dr4Film), What is your source of information or first hand experience with the new units that Chris T mentioned in his post where Chris posted an update from his tech (Dustin) on one of his latest swap outs? I am hoping Chris can double check the new information he got and verify a model number of what they used? Chris, thanks for double checking with Dustin. I appreciate it. I guess our posts are overlapping in the Ethernet 😀. I think it will only be a matter of time before I'll have to start replacing my originals. I'm also looking/thinking about possibly doing a remote temp sensor at the original CCC thermostat location and possibly mounting the wider CCC2 some place else. But then I would have to fish another cable... I appreciate your expertise in these matters. Too bad I may not be in Florida for many many months.
  3. Chris, In trying to plan ahead for what I might need when a new 15K heat pump unit becomes available later this year, (I guess it would be a 651816HXX1C0-01, correct??? to replace an original 2006 vintage 630516 model), is Dustin saying the above new unit will work with the old 5 button CCC? I'm trying to plan ahead as the newer CCC2 thermostat is too wide to go where my old 5 button is located. Or would I still need to order the adapter board "Dometic 3313107.107 CCC2 to CCC 12 Button to 5 Button Heat Pump Conversion Kit" to use the old CCC thermostat (assuming I can not find some other wall width space and wiring routing someplace for the newer CCC2 as the original location is only 4 inches between a cabinet and a door...but the features of the CCC2 might be nice if space allowed...). Or would the unit need to be a 651516... model to work only with the old CCC? Thanks for verifying.
  4. A few years ago I replaced my original motor (when I got tired of tapping it with a hammer to get the armature to make contact) with a power window motor from a 86-95 Taurus/Sable ... AutoZone (Doorman) 742-277 with a lifetime warranty. About a year later I replaced that under warranty. A few months later that started to skip internally (plastic case and I assume pressed plastic internal gear). A few months later the next replacement started doing the same thing. All made in China.🙄 but what isn't these days... If just gave the step a little boost from the outside when closing, I would retract fine. Going out was never a problem with these Chinese replacements. So I decided to add a spring assist. 9 inch spring about 2 lbs force. Works again. The spring gives it a little assist getting started on the retract. Not sure if I'll go to the bother of another AutoZone warranty claim until it quits again, but at least AutoZone is easy to find across the country . I think the Chinese use to much plastic! Anyway, some pictures of the installed spring ... FYI We like the original flat step to walk in/out from any angle, the other steps with the side lips/raised edges would be a safety hazard tripping us! Happened several times with a Country Coach with that design. And other steps just don't feel anywhere as solid to walk on. YMMV
  5. As a closing follow up ... Recall that the problem unit was the front A/C heat pump ( 15k unit ). As everyone knows, a lot of heat comes in the windshield even with shades and coverings. After swapping pieces with the identical center unit (leaving bedroom unit untouched) essentially I now have a front unit that does not trip the breaker after running continuously for hours and hours, and the center unit also functions, but evidently as the heat load is less on that unit, it will cycle off and on giving it a rest which I guess gives it the chance to "cool off" the compressor ... which it never had the opportunity as the front unit. So today again 100+ outside, full sun, and a West-NW facing parking location with hot windshield sun, all three units did not trip any internal breakers, but current draw was getting up there running close to 18-19 amps identically on the 3 units when they are in the worst heat of the day. They all start off about 14 amps as it starts to get warm from the cool night. My Hughes Auto former was in the circuit this time but in pass through mode, so was only getting the minimal 2% boost as unboosted voltage is rock solid at 120V. A few weeks ago I was here essentially under the same conditions with rock solid unboosted 120V, and the "original" front unit configuration would trip after running continuously for 2-3 hours. I don't think the booster is really a factor...I've just been too lazy to unplug it (internally mounted) as in a week I'll be at a campground well known for low voltage, but at least more shade and only in the low 90's. Anyway, just fyi
  6. Stinger, I already replaced the start and run caps as that was my first thought. No separate caps that I see for the fan motor. The run cap is a dual. Also replaced the 20 amp (Square D) breaker in the sub panel just in case. Good thought about the clamp on meter. I'll climb up in a day or two. Probably compressor is getting old and heats up causing higher resistance and thus current draw as the day wears on... Fan motor seems to spin freely. By the way, three ACs are pretty standard on the big rigs and everything is sized and balanced across both legs appropriately. At 45 feet like being space in a 100 degree day, two ACs couldn't begin to keep up so 3 units are standard. Aqua hot and one AC on one leg, the two other ACs on the other leg. In theory with all running would have 15 Amps to spare on each leg. (They all have individual 20 amp breakers in the sub panel....). Also, voltage when all 3 are running is staying around 120-123 volts on either leg so no low voltage problem...on park power or the 10kw generator...no change. Thanks Al
  7. One of my original 2006 Penguin heat pumps is starting to draw high current >20 amps after running for a while. It starts up and heats or cools fine, but the current creeps up after a while. Other than replacing it due to age (which I may do anyway), what to check? Today, for example, all three units were working hard cooling on this hot day and after running almost continuously for an hour or two, it was drawing 22 amps and tripped the breaker. The other two were drawing about 15 Amps each. Thanks, Al
  8. Mine did that. Tried all type tank cleaning...happy camper extreme et al. Finally tried a tornado turbo nozzle, cut off the tank mount flange so I could screw it onto a garden hose and shove it up the black tank thru the valve. It beat around and a lot of scale came out. I'm assuming some scale had partially come loose next to the input and that it would trap water there throwing off the stick on sensors that are right there by the input. A lot of the scale came out as grit, a few quarter size flakes, and a couple of flat pieces maybe a couple inches in diameter. Mine would be green for a flush or two, then turn red. Interesting observation was that I could back fill the tank from the sani-flush and it would cycle properly turning yellow at 70% and then red about 100% on the Alladin. But one or two flushes on an empty tank would always turn red. Thus my theory of loose scale by the input.... Since letting the tornado beat the inside of the tank, it has been functioning normally. FWIW, Al Tecma Silence mascerator
  9. To me, nothing seems to me as solid to step on as the old SCS Frigette. At some point in the future, I may have to look for or make a compatible regulator gear as some teeth are wearing. The side glides can be easily replaced. The doorman replacement motors use a cheap plastic housing that needs caution when replacing, but at least have a lifetime warranty. FWIW Al
  10. I have Dish and Travl'r with the default 3 Sats Western Arc. At the extremes, I've received at least 1 sat on the Western coast of New Foundland and at least 1 sat in Alaska. When way up north the dish is pretty horizontal. In northern New Foundland it would hit the mechanical limit when skewing so sometimes set it to manual mode on one Safelite... as it looks right down the St Lawrence... No problem receiving the 5 majors from a Sat although I seldom watch those networks. Also have the OTA adapter for the Hopper that ties in the Batwing if I take the time to scan locals. We seem to prefer standard movie and "cable" news channels to prime time. Sometimes trees may block 129 so I'll view the SD version from 119. Same if 110 is blocked. Most of the time I will not do a "check switch" and let it think all 3 Sats are available and let it automatically switch down to SD when HD is temporarily blocked. FWIW, YMMV, Al
  11. At a couple of random times I've heard the motor turn for a couple of seconds and then quit, and this was long after and not associated with any control panel actions. Kinda surprised me one night... BTW, as I must open and close it manually, the motor is disengaged from the spline at the moment, so even under a no load situation it doesn't function. The exhaust fan (blades) runs fine, throttles up and down via the control panel just fine. As I crank it open manually the outside switch breaks contact with the lid and the exhaust fan motor runs normally. It is the lid lift open/close motor that it's the problem. As stated earlier, removed the motor and jumped to battery terminals it runs. Why would the lift motor wires seem to have a constant 4 volts? Is there another logic board burried some place else? Seems to be only two wires from the cabinet control panel that disappear into a wire loom heading into the wall then presumably ceiling someplace. Implying a serial communication to something? Control panel will control the fan blade speed just fine. There is a little age discoloring on one edge of the rain sensor, but it seems detect water dampness and turns off the blades when damp and resumes the blades when it dries out. But it used to also trigger the open/closer motor too. And the rain switch when set to off ingores any water/dampness ... is not detected and had no effect on the blade speed. When "on" the dampness turns off the fan blades. The blades seem to ramp up to have full voltage. There is no binding when I disengage the lift motor and crank the lid manually. My apologies for restating the symptoms again, but I guess my first statement wasn't clear.
  12. Fantastic Fan will no longer open or close with the motor. If I manually crank it up it will run. If I dampen the rain sensor the fan will turn off but will not close the lid. I took the up/down motor out and jumped it to the 12v battery and it runs slowly as I guess it is supposed to as it is marked 4 RPM. Measure the voltage coming to the motor wires and it seems to read about 4 volts all the time. No change when I start or stop the fan from the control panel. Where to look next?
  13. As I recall, an old grill I used many years ago used the small 1 lb green screw on tanks and had a built in regulator that could not be by passed, and that built in regulator would thus not allow already regulated low pressure gas to pass. Also, as I recall, there were 20 lb tank hoses that would allow unregulated gas tank pressure to that corresponding type of mini tank screw on fitting. But I would feel uncomfortable using that hose all the time under high pressure even from a 20 lb tank. However, there is indeed a short (maybe 6-8 inch) hose that goes from my coach's 100 lb frame mounted tank to the coach's regulator then another short hose to the black iron low pressure distribution pipe. I have had to replace that first short hose before as it aged and I felt it was getting too old considering the consequences and constant pressure it is under. I recall a worrisome time when a nearby TT had a dual tank setup where a high pressure hose from the A-frame tanks to the regulator sprung a gas leak one hot day. Also my old junior high school blew up one winter night due to a gas leak, and it leveled the 3 story building throwing bricks 1/3 mile away. And that was a medium pressure under ground natural gas line. Even with that said, I prefer some gas to a total electic coach. With indoor gas stove cooking, outside grill and firepit, I don't even use a half tank a year (and we spend the majority of a year in the coach ... well, except for this year so far ...). The S&B has a 500 gallon tank and is all copper and black iron pipe from tank to house appliances. ...end of ramblings...
  14. I was going from memory in that the 1 lb green bottles are a higher pressure gas setup and grills that are designed for them would not get adequate gas. If you can run your 1 lb green tank type of grill from a standard 20 lb tank and a standard regulator, then it might work from the coach's regulator too.
  15. Referencing my Beaver, it is indeed on the regulated low pressure side all ready to tap for most low pressure BBQ grills and fire pits that would use a standard 20 lb tank (not the grills that use the small 1 lb green bottles). I simply added "Mr Heater" quick connectors and the appropriate Mr Heater hoses - I have three hoses so I can combine as desired to move the grill/fire pit many many feet away... Connectors and hoses easily found from Ace, Northern Tool, Home Depot, etc. As I recall, they had a built in safety high flow shut off just in case...not typical air line quick connectors....
  • Create New...