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  1. Something jammed in the macerator blades so the motor doesn't run? Have you pulled it out from the wall and removed the rubber hose like sweep to see into the plastic blade area? (I am assuming you were talking about a Tecma Silence) FWIW
  2. Another thing to check is the limit cut offs. One does electric, another for the diesel burner. They screw into the tank with two wires coming from them. If the diesel one has opened up I don't think the fuel solenoid will open, so the cycle will start ... Evacuate the chamber, attempt to spark (you'll hear the click - I think I used to hear about 3 in rapid succession) but with no fuel from a closed solenoid no ignition so no flame detected and will go into cool down/shut down cycle. As I recall, the two cut offs are identical. I carry a spare and naturally have not had to use it after o
  3. The true "snow belt" really starts south of Watertown. Getting around Evans Mills you might find a farmer that has quit farming and sold some of his fan land for house lots. So maybe he has an empty barn/tool shed that could provide some servere weather protection. As cold as it will get, you won't have water + sewer hooked up anyway. Maybe an unused hay barn close to the milk house, and might find full phase (both legs) in the breaker box as hot water heater/milk cooler/vac pump/gutter cleaner/etc would have had nice demands. Just a crazy idea thinking outside the box, but I would pr
  4. Having been born and raised in that area around Watertown, it is a nice area with the scenic Thousand Islands and Adirondacks so close by to enjoy. But winters used to be brutal. Cold cold way below zero then suddenly warm up and melt snow then cold and more snow. Wind and blowing snow... Best wishes, Allen
  5. That sounds just perfect to me as we will be heading "home" in 2-3 weeks to vote and then these spares should arrive for storage until we stay put long enough to install.
  6. Removed information about an aftermarket small profile software updatable WIFI/Bluetooth enabled thermostat that is compatible with the new Penguin II heat pump units per request. I'll just keep the info to myself for when I replace my units.
  7. In addition, I would think you'll have to locate and wire in a remote temp sensor to the roof unit as the parlor living area will heat/cool differently than the bed room. You probably already have a remote sensor around the bathroom sink area. You might be able to repurpose the data cable from the thermostat you want to remove and use that for the remote sensor, but I'm not sure of the details. I'm possibly thinking about that as I only have 4 inches of wall width space where the front thermostat is. FWIW
  8. Here's what I found in the installation manual regarding specific model numbers. So it looks like one could specifically order from the factory with the right board for the thermostat of choice. However, dealers might only keep in stock the one(s) they think would typically sell. FWIW
  9. I also have used these panels from this particular eBay seller and have been a very satisfied customer. I have both the 4x9 and 6x6 cell arrangements to fit on my roof the way I wanted. I would buy his panels again if I had capacity and real estate.
  10. As another tidbit, My 2007 45 footer came with three 15k pumps. The problem I will have is replacing the front thermostat as the wall between the spice cabinet door to bath door is only 4 inches wide unless I mount it 2 1/2 feet up from the floor instead of eye level. Or mount it rotated 90 degrees. Either way is a problem.... Also have to watch refrigerator door clearance when that slide is retracted if I opt for the other side of the bath door. The rear (and center unit) wall space is just 6 inches wide so a new CCC2 might barely fit there. I'm hoping Chris will post the new wir
  11. Thank you, Chris, for taking the extra effort to verify for me. Just as a guess, perhaps the difference in model numbers with Richard's 651816C versus what I finding now as 651816H explains something. At least now I think I could plan for the 651816HXX1C0-01 and perhaps get flexibility of either thermostat depending on wall space I can find. When they become readily available, I am desiring polar white 15K (high capacity) heat pumps and not just A/C only units. Again, many thanks!
  12. Richard (Dr4Film), What is your source of information or first hand experience with the new units that Chris T mentioned in his post where Chris posted an update from his tech (Dustin) on one of his latest swap outs? I am hoping Chris can double check the new information he got and verify a model number of what they used? Chris, thanks for double checking with Dustin. I appreciate it. I guess our posts are overlapping in the Ethernet 😀. I think it will only be a matter of time before I'll have to start replacing my originals. I'm also looking/thinking about possibly doing a remote
  13. Chris, In trying to plan ahead for what I might need when a new 15K heat pump unit becomes available later this year, (I guess it would be a 651816HXX1C0-01, correct??? to replace an original 2006 vintage 630516 model), is Dustin saying the above new unit will work with the old 5 button CCC? I'm trying to plan ahead as the newer CCC2 thermostat is too wide to go where my old 5 button is located. Or would I still need to order the adapter board "Dometic 3313107.107 CCC2 to CCC 12 Button to 5 Button Heat Pump Conversion Kit" to use the old CCC thermostat (assuming I can not find some other wal
  14. A few years ago I replaced my original motor (when I got tired of tapping it with a hammer to get the armature to make contact) with a power window motor from a 86-95 Taurus/Sable ... AutoZone (Doorman) 742-277 with a lifetime warranty. About a year later I replaced that under warranty. A few months later that started to skip internally (plastic case and I assume pressed plastic internal gear). A few months later the next replacement started doing the same thing. All made in China.🙄 but what isn't these days... If just gave the step a little boost from the outside when closing, I would re
  15. As a closing follow up ... Recall that the problem unit was the front A/C heat pump ( 15k unit ). As everyone knows, a lot of heat comes in the windshield even with shades and coverings. After swapping pieces with the identical center unit (leaving bedroom unit untouched) essentially I now have a front unit that does not trip the breaker after running continuously for hours and hours, and the center unit also functions, but evidently as the heat load is less on that unit, it will cycle off and on giving it a rest which I guess gives it the chance to "cool off" the compressor ... which i
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