miacasa_2000

There is one more solution I'd like to add. RV Glass Solutions makes one pc laminated just like our windshields. After my drivers and door failed the second time I tried them and it has been great. They make it the same thickness as our double pane so it fits our frames perfectly. I'm sure I lost some R value and perhaps some noise level but you would need some sophisticated equipment to determine it. Driving, sleeping at rest stops, heating and cooling we haven't noticed any difference 4yrs now. Roy 2003 Dynasty

I feel the same as Richard except maybe the work part and have added you to our prayers. This whole group is the best and you guys are exceptional.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you and a special thank you to all that run this site. Your tireless work and we all know it takes a lot is so gratefully appreciated. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

Skip I can't get to mine right now to take a pic but I remember in that right rear run bay box it's kind of like a junction box if you will. The tail lights , 7 way trailer plug, marker lights and more are in there. If your ok with test lights, meter etc. and maybe a helper in the cab that's a great place to start checking. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

If you have all the above proper adjustments done then the only thing I can think of is the latch itself. With the door open and you roll the latches into locked position with a pry tool of some sort try to pop a latch if you find one you can pop. I've never heard of one going bad but anything is possible from excessive wear, a crack, or still some sort of adjustment. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

Jean Sounds like you have a good handle on it. Do all the things you said. If the battery tray is bad you'll have to make the call if you want to do something about it now and cancel the tire shop or take them back out later. If yours is like mine you should have a battery maintainer for the chassis batteries that actually works off the house batteries that's maintained by your inverter/charger. Not sure if all that's working on yours but if it is I would disconnect from shore power as well before you start to remove the batteries and a rule of thumb is to remove the neg cable first and on installation attach the neg cable last. I live where it also gets very cold and never had a battery that was kept with the acid at proper level and fully charged ever freeze, part of the reason mine is plugged in all the time. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

Mike, Glad to have you here I watched your video on rebuilding the Webasto burner and have been a fan since. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

What Jim said is good on mine the rod is threaded and was able to turn it up for proper adjustment vs bending the rods have some factory bends in them anyway. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

All suggestions above are good. I'd like to add one more happened to me. On the roof the vent caps age and become brittle I had a piece chip off in such away as I drove it forced air down the vent pipe everytime my dw flushed it stunk to high heavens. Put a rotating one on now better then original. Roy 2003 Dynasty

You can get the whole assembly with two keys from nappa the next day for just a little over $30. Once you unscrew the large outer cone shaped ring you can remove the switch from the rear. If yours is like mine Monaco did not use the molded plug they just put female spade terminals on the wires so no worries on fit. Roy 2003 Dynasty Thought about it for a minute you might have to with a screw driver and paper clip remove the key cylinder to get the bezel off. if you get it out cleanly you could just get a new key cylinder but as old as it is the whole thing might be better/ Roy 2003 Dynasty

As Richard stated Amazon has them. I have one on my newer without handles Samsung works excellent. The owner Carl at recubed solutions is great to deal with. Roy 2003 Dynasty FridgeFixer.pdf

I installed the Aims PWRIX120012S with the remote Roy 2003 Dynasty

I too had installed the newer Samsung recently and it would run off the msw only a short while and shut down and run perfect when I fired up the geny. I was worried that it would fry up the electronics so I too installed a dedicated psw for the fridge now we both are happy. I tell this for others who go this route for many of us were told that Samsung works well with msw and it seems they did but maybe in the background they didn't. Mine showed up right away and I assumed the newer electronics with the dc inverter compressor was the issue but I don't really know. I can say the smaller psw for the fridge was not expensive or hard to do and I chose one with a auto transfer switch built in so it works just like the msw. Roy 2003 Dynasty

I have Centramatics all around they are great, But a word of caution . On my last set of tires they did not spin balance because of them and I had a terrible wobble went back and they put them on the spin balancer and found a tire out of round a factory defect which nothing will overcome. So I know I will from now on always have them balanced along with my Centramatics so I know I'm starting out good and who knows later down the road if a weight falls off the balancers will keep up with it. Roy 2003 Dynasty

Scotty you could make them renew the post every month or two weeks. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

In regards to just answering your question. Yes you can do it and be just fine the trick is careful detailed planning. I did it the first 4 yrs I owned mine. you need to pick your destinations and look for CG's or parks with shuttles or public transportation close by etc.. a few times when that just wasn't in the cards we used Enterprize because they will come to you and bring you back when your done. It's easy to restock your supplies at large supermarkets, Walmart etc.. Even Home depot and Lowes are large enough when you need a minor fix. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

I am not sure what the note at the top means about the answer most helpful . But anyway the doors and the control board went right away. what I still have are 1. all the shelves ( wire and glass) with the center support and side retainers. 2. door hinges 3. Ice maker (replaced about 5 yrs before I took the unit out) the valve (also new at the time) and the heat tape 4 the cooling fans and misc. wires and the high temp control box (part of the recall) 8. Bins 8 door bins and one large shelf bin Roy 2003 dynasty

aims pure sine wave with built in transfer switch. They are built well and work great, My 1200 was $300 plus another $35 for remote switch. ( only needed because of access where I mounted it. Roy 2003 Dynasty

Dennis here are 2 pics left front and right rear. Chris Thank you so much for the info. I didn't realize it was mainly a Dynasty issue. You can see in the front pic the old dicor over the crack and how bad my clear coat is peeling. Infact it's peeling all the way around the coach from a inch or 2 above the beltline to where it meets the different textured white roof. I just finished the beltlines and am starting the sanding, repairing, and painting from the bottom of the beltline up. Your advise on how to stop this from getting worse is just what I needed, So let me ask you this do you see anything wrong with this. After it's sanded down and I drill the two holes and apply the proflex rv sealant (that I have from the beltline job) or do I need to get the dicor. And then continue with my primer, paint and clear coat right over the caulk. I know the white areas in the front would be ok with the white caulk but the green areas in the back would blend in much better. Tom Thank you as well I see you lean towards Dicor vs the proflex I will wait and see what Chris thinks I beleive Dicor is paintable as well so it's no big deal. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty would have been nice if I remembered to attach the pics Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

What are you guys doing now for those pesky cracks at the top four corners of our coaches? Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

Well I started mine today and have a few questions hopefully Jim, Scotty and Chris will chime in. First I started on the DSF where I didn't have any issues (mine are all past the slide) because of the advice Chris gave about the radius being a problem area and I wanted to head off a future problem, and I was pleasantly surprised how good it looked. My screws are every 4-1/2" on center so I put rivets about a 1/2" away from each screw. Then when I took the screws out every other one came out full and the ones that didn't broke off at the steel. At the steel is the only spot there was any rust on the screws. So first question is am I on the right track placing rivets every 4-1/2" next to old screws and taking the old screws out even if everything looked good, I imagine I should so they don't back out later and cause a issue but every 4-1/2" seams crazy but maybe that's why my belt held up. Anyway my 2nd Question is the section under the awning at the bottom of the channel it looks like they put it in with a putty it's soft like plumbers putty you can see it in the cover (pic 2) and in the track (pic 3) you also can see where it's missing in the track by the screw because that spot is in the cover. Is this where you mentioned the tape should go or should I just caulk it in? Question # 3 this same awning area do I replace the screws with rivets , will my 7/8" rivets work this area is a little thicker by the awning track slid down behind the belt channel or leave these screws alone? I know my coach has never been recalked because it was only 6 yrs old when I got it. I don't know what Monaco used it is kind of rubbery like silicone and is brutal to remove no long pc's like Scottys' Roy 2003 Dynasty

Bob I thought there would be some areas of just plywood especially around the curves. Ted Thanks I plan do just what you said and where there is already silicone also using some acetone as per Chris. I still have all my scaffolding and double sided A ladders and aluminum picks from being in construction. Heck I probably could go all the way around the coach if I was so inclined. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

Jim Yes I know I have leaks I've seen water come in at one spot and not show up for many feet away. That's why I'm doing the whole coach. I have the means to set up and run the whole length of the coach (upper belt) just trying to get my materials and info together I appreciate your info. Bob I'll find out how my cover is held on when I start but good info on the shrinking maybe I'll mark mine and perhaps only do about 10' at a time. This is exactly why I am asking for pointers. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

I am ready to tackle this problem on my coach and have a few concerns / questions. 1. I am assuming the beltlines are over the steel box framing hence why rivets are recommended does this include the curved sections? 2. My beltline is different it's completely over the channel but it still feels like a stiff vinyl any secretes to removing it so no harm is done it is extremely long, and does this type need and or should I use the tape to help with reattachment. 3. And last but not least do you ever pull the channel to caulk behind it or does that open a can of worms that I'll never get back in right. You can see in the pics a screw bulge and the rust coming down my door even though the caulk above the beltline looks good obviously it's not no penetrations above this section. Thanks in advance. Roy Mercier 2003 Dynasty

Tim if your skills with wood working are ok to do it with wood then you also could do it with sign material. That's what I did you use all the same wood working tools on it (saws,drills,router,Etc..) the material is 2 pcs of aluminum with rubber in-between so much stronger and will never crack and can hold the weight of radios and more. It's 1/4" thick but bevels nicely to create a nice edge. I picked up a scrap pc at a local sign shop and made my radio dash plate and my wall panel. Roy 2003 Dynasty