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Our dash AC/heat has never worked in the 2 diesel pushers we've owned. Running the genny with heat pump or A/C works great for the temps we encounter. I'm pretty sure that my Cummins manual says it's more economical to operate the genny with overhead A/C than the engine driven unit. No idea on the heat.

It looks a lot like the one I installed in our coach. Strictly from memory since the coach is in storage, there is a small key hole behind the logo on the front of the safe. You open it with the key, change the batteries (couple of AAA's) and reset the code by following the directions inside. The key is a small one that looks like it would be for a padlock. If it is like mine, it came from Harbor Freight.

We had our slide toppers replaced with Stone Voss manufactured product about 5 years ago. The actual replacement was done by Register RV, also in Brooksville, Fl. They still look like new.

My '03 Camelot has a GFCI in the second cargo bay, passenger side mounted almost on the bay "ceiling". I doubt this is your problem but worth checking. It might also be your power cord or plug. The display picture shows 21 AMPS, the microwave may have caused it exceed 30 and trip something. I AM NOT an electrician or mechanic, just an old pilot who has seen too many strange malfunctions.

Congratulations! We all need a little good luck these days.

I hate to be discouraging but I had a similar problem with a QD 7.5 and, as I remember it, the same code. The ECU was not seeing the correct voltage or frequency and shutting the engine down. A service center removed all the covers and found that a magnet had become "unbonded" and had damaged the stator, rotor, and the cooling fan fins. Chunks of the magnet were throughout the interior of the generator case. They replaced the rotor, stator, and cooling fan, which only took a day after getting the parts from Cummins. Fortunately, the electronics were not damaged but the repair was still $3,000. Before authorizing the repair, I spoke to the closest Cummins center and they said that they would replace the entire generator, not rebuild it, adding several thousand dollars more to the cost. The generator had less than 500 hours on it when the failure occurred. That was 5 years ago and it continues to perform well.

Please count me in the group with exactly the same leveling problem with a slightly different “feature.” My coach, ‘03 Camelot, levels perfectly with Auto and maintains level as long as there is air in the tanks and the leveling pad “ON.” When the air is gone, the curb side rear settles. It does the same thing with the leveling system OFF - same corner settles to the stops. My auxiliary compressor does not operate, probably having burned out trying to keep the coach level before I bought it 4 years ago - something the crack inspector didn’t catch or understand. The people in Wildwood (before it was Lazy Days) spent an entire day looking for leaks with me paying their hourly rate. Then they changed the 6 pack with no improvement. The next step they said was to change one of the air bags on that corner and several more hours of leak chasing - with no improvement. They said the aux compressor was hard to source and discouraged replacing it. Cummins Coach Care admitted they had no clue. So far I’ve spent over $3,000 and the problem is not fixed. I don’t have the mechanical skills you guys do so I’ve learned to live with the problem and was hoping to get to HWH this past summer - but COVID stopped all our travel plans. With the kind of camping we do, I’ve found sites level most of the time. In my weak trouble shooting, I’ve found that if I connect a small electric compressor (pressure set to 90 psi) to the front air supply nozzle near the generator, the coach will stay level with the compressor coming on for 8 or 10 minutes every few hours. I believe my problem is pressure protection valves, what we called one-way check valves back when I used to fly for a living, and the aux compressor. I’ve downloaded the HWH manual and will be studying it. Thanks.

On our last trip before COVID, the screws holding my shore power reel to the top of the compartment pulled out and the reel fell. I decided to remount the reel, however, it originally was mounted to very thin plywood backed by foam insulation. There is no wetness or rot but the plyboard is delaminating. How it held the weight of the reel and the power cord for all these years, I'll never know. I don't see a workable way to reinforce the ceiling of the compartment so I've decided to just remove the reel. I've dealt with the shore power cords on other RV's and boats and I don't find it a huge chore. Can I reuse the shore power cord? It is in good shape. Do I wire the cord directly to the automatic transfer switch which is in the same compartment? The transfer switch was replaced at a service center two years ago. Other than being difficult to get to and requiring long arms, is this difficult? Thanks in advance.

About 3 years ago, a perfectly aimed small tree limb fell and went completely through the neo-angle skylight in our '03 Camelot sitting in my driveway getting ready to head to Florida. I called a large repair facility near the Villages (Florida) (since changed hands and now Lazy Days) and they said they had it in stock. I verified I wanted tinted, 2 layer and they agreed. After they had the old one torn out and the replacement completed they told me they only had single layer and not tinted - "they don't make the 2 layer anymore" - which I knew was not correct. Well, I can tell you first hand that the tint and two layers make a BIG difference in the heat transmitted into the coach.

I went to Eagle’s Pride RV service in Titusville, Fl after a major Florida RV service center failed to fix the brake light wiring to my toad, blaming it on the toad . A young man from Eagle’s Pride came to a nearby campground, diagnosed the problem within 10 minutes and within 30 replaced the brake light converter on the coach. All at a very reasonable price and without the nice indoor shop and high prices the other center had.

I had exactly the same thing happen when the plastic mounting bracket broke - on a mountain road. I couldn't find a part that would work and fixed it with a tough piece of plastic strapping used to hang pipes. I mounted it around the the shade mechanism using the screws that were there. Works fine so far.

The replacement motor I used for my ‘03 Camelot was ACI (brand) part # 83694. The info I can find using google says it’s for a 1986 - 1995 Taurus driver’s door. I remember taking the motor with me to Advance Auto and they cross referenced it, but that’s been about 4 years. I had to replace the plug on the new motor with the one from the old. I checked using Google and it showed Advance Auto, Auto Zone, and Rock Auto with the part. I remembered paying about $50 but I must be wrong since it now runs $65 - $80. Still working fine four years later.

Like several others, when my steps started acting up it turned out to be the motor. I think the replacement was about $50 at Advance Auto. If memory serves, I believe it was the power window motor from a Ford Taurus - divers’s side rear door, I believe. It’s always surprises me that the motor is down there unshielded and lasts as long as it does.