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Hotrod last won the day on July 20

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  1. I wonder if you wound an external coil for the hot water how well it would work? Sure would be cheap fix. Use a thermal mastic to conduct heat from tank to coil.
  2. The exact amount is usually found on a sticker on the evaporator box up front . It should be around 60oz I think . If empy start with 4- 12 oz cans (with stop leak if it leaked out). If it’s not empty don’t do that.. just put in enough according to gauge and ambient . Watch for high head pressure.
  3. There is a test procedure on Hwh web site. mid no corners move up, that means it most likely is not a ride height valve on a six pack since there are three six packs and four valves involved. They all get the same signal to turn them on in travel mode. It is the ignition signal passed thru a relay in the brain computer . I think there is a fuse in there too. Do the test procedure.
  4. It probably wouldn’t hurt to have castor up around 6 but I don’t think it would cure your wander. A 36 is pretty short. You can imply some castor like stability with a Safe-T-plus. I have one on my Dynasty and had it on a 38 Diplomat before that. They definitely add stability. The other thing that may help is a watts link which I’m sure others will comment on that have them. Bill G 06 Dynasty
  5. There should be an rca cable coming from the front , plugged into the din box that connects the power . Does the box have two video inputs ? Mine does. I have a spare monitor that I’ll bring to Maine Ifni can locate it.
  6. Hotrod


    The xza2 is a long haul highway tire and I think the most energy efficient of the bunch. The xze is a regional tire. Great if you have a ups truck. The Toyo is a truck tire. I would not use it for the steer axle. I’m not sure about the other Michelin’s. I’m on my second set of xza2’s and like their performance . I had an issue with them getting side wall cracks but Michelin adjusted them at 50k miles and 6.5 years for about half price so they stand behind their products . The michelin xza2 needs about 5psi less air pressure than the Toyo so it rides better and is easier to inflate with coach air than the toyo. The Michelin’s xza2 have all had perfect wear patterns on over 80k miles and 16 tires . Can’t say that about gy670s that came on the coach. I imagine that the Michelin costs a couple hundred more than a toyo, but is more energy efficient and rides better.
  7. Make sure the coils are clean and the weather stripping under the cover has not come loose. Low voltage and a hot day will get you up to 20a on a 15k unit.
  8. What kind of coach? Does it have a secondary panel or just the two pin breakers on the inverter? Are you talking about L1 and L2 from shore power or a secondary inverter panel with an L1 and L2?
  9. Paul, I had a similar challenge with the wire next to the big connector. Had to screw with driver pointed up worried about dropping it although it probably would have ended up on the floor. Perhaps rather than the extension, which is expensive, if you could find a small jewelers screw driver with a ring on the end for your index finger that would prevent you from dropping it and you could hold it pointed up at the connector and turn with your thumb and middle finger. Such a tool would probably be cheap if you can find it and just include it. Bill G
  10. My new control board for the Magnum Opus toilet came today from Paul Whittle. I put it in and it works like a charm. Couldn’t be easier. I also hung the old board in the tank to the left of the new one so I know right where it is should it ever be needed. It had hung open a few times in the last few months . Could be a relay going out on it, TBD. Now it’s a good enough spare. This is one of those parts their here to for was not available . Thanks Paul.
  11. The tire irons are kentool t45ac irons. You will need two. You can get them from zoro.com or other places. Also I use an earthquake 1200 ftlb cordless lithum impact tool on the lugs from harbor freight. I used to use a torque multiplier but the impact tool is a lot less work . I had tried a DEWALT also but it didn’t live up to its 1200ftlb rating. The 1400 ftlb from Milwaukee is probably a good option. Also I have a 600ft lb torque wrench that is 4 ft long to tighten lugs to 500 ft lb. A 3/4” tee bar also works with a couple 3’ cheaters . And you need some extensions to reach the lugs on the rear tires. Dont forget some tire soap (water soluable). You will also need a 20 ton bottle jack (air over hydraulic) or floor model and some 22 ton jack stands if you want to be safe. I got the spider tool from Chuck T a couple years ago at the gathering and some new bolts and the right spacers. I use balance masters for balancing . I have ceramic beads in the tag though.
  12. I had a right front blowout on a 28’ gasser Winnie Chiefton in the 90s on i90 going into Albany. It’s at least 8 lanes. The blowout jerked me two lanes to the right to the hard shoulder before I got control . The lurch to the right was before I could react at all. Ran a car off the road. But no one was hurt. Had body damage on the RV. The blowout came with no warning . So now, I do the following and hope it saves us. 1. Steer tires run no more than 5 seasons. Michelin’s, about 1500 a pair. No Gy670s or cheap Chinese rubber. How does the DOT keep track of Chinese made tires ? 2. Pressure Pro with graphics and real time chart to identify any odd behavior which might get my attention before a failure. 3. Safe-T-Plus to prevent instantaneous motion of tie rod... to prevent that lurch to another lane. I’ve had the same one on two coaches. Makes it drive better too. 4. Tyron Bands to keep the rubber on the rim and not piled up in the wheel well. It took me a while to come around to the Tyron’s. I had to understand fully how they work. Now I’m a believer. Aamof despite anecdotal statements, I don’t think they can be put on without a tool to compress the tire... I mount my own. Their whole purpose is to prevent access to the deep well which prevents getting he tire over the rim. If someone manages to put a tire on or take it off with the Tyron in place , I can assure you the Tyron is no longer in place. Am I anal about it. Yes. Because I know what can happen.
  13. The install procedure is similar to the Tyron’s . It looks like it could be a good product but we have no history to judge yet. There are a lot of us with the Tyron’s.
  14. Not to throw gas on a fire , but ... Yes it makes proper sense to take Cummins advise rather than third hand anecdotal advise. It would be like suggesting that you shouldn’t use oem parts because an unnamed source says sob parts are better . I started using DK grey bottle booster back in 2005 when ulsd started showing up at the pumps. It gave me about a half mpg better mileage. My isc 330 diplomat was noticeably sluggish on ulsd. I’ve been using it ever since. The bio diesel available now does not have a good shelf life and after a few months it starts degrading and you will get little tar like bugs. When you see them in the top of your fuel filter, you May have a serious problem Houston. So, giving the b20 that you get some places (like florida), the last couple years , I’ve started using the tank cleaning dk with the green writing on the label. It’s about 11$ a quart so I’ll dump one in every couple tanks. The biobohr jr is to be safe that I don’t get any algae growth and I use it a couple times a year. I need to go pull my primary filter and make sure the fuel still looks good as the coach has not moved much since the got back from Florida in February. I did fill it up right before parking. Here is what a bad case of decomposing bio looks like .
  15. Way to go. Now put 3/8 fittings on all the appliances and a 3/8 on the appliance end of one of your 1/4 hoses and you can use the 3/8 hose to extend or a 1/4 hose to eXtend . Never know when you want something 30 ft away. I have 3 hoses ... a 12ft 1/4 to 3/8, a 10ft 3/8, and a 10ft 1/4. I can use 1, 2 or all 3 to any appliance .
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