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jacwjames last won the day on May 13

jacwjames had the most liked content!

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    New Market TN

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  1. Were they just loose in the bundle but taped up?? I did not find any loose wire in my RRB. I looked in the FRB but did not see any loose wires or looms. Everything is pretty tight in there, not a lot of slack in the wiring looms. I am going to borrow or buy a tone generator/tracer. Hopefully I'll get lucky.
  2. Here's a picture of the wires I found in the bedroom hatch compartment at the front of the engine.
  3. I had to pull a paired wire for the fuel pressure gauge I installed for the FASS fuel pump. In the past I did not have any success trying to just push a fish tape through the frame rails. I ended up pulling the ceiling panel out of the middle basement compartment, this meant I had one compartment on each side I had to contend with. The fuel tank compartment has a metal panel welded in place. The small compartment where my transfer switch, inverter, water heater and water pump are located does not have a panel in the ceiling so could access there. I decided to try and get a piece of 3/4" conduit through. I was able to use 10' pieced starting in the front, passenger side next to the rail and push it through the openings in the frame that the wire bundles were already routed. I pushed it back across the fuel tank into the middle compartment. I then glued the 2nd 10' piece on then working in the middle compartment pushed across the 3rd compartment, and then working in the small compartment pushed into the ceiling above the rear axle. This provided me a route to pull the fuel pressure sensor wires. I am also trying to find a spare wire front to back but if I am unsuccessful I will have to pull at least one other wire through the conduit.
  4. Has anyone had any success finding spare wires. I am installing a Blue Sea ML-ARC battery auto contactor to eliminate the BIRD, Isolation relay, and battery maintainer. I need one spare wire for the switch to replace the auxiliary start switch with the Blue Sea Switch. So I've pulled the top and side off the console where the Allison shifter is mounted. I found a 4 wire plug not being used but it is labeled Compression brake, all wires are white. I found a two wire plug that is labeled exhaust brake, both wires are white. I do have a Pac Brake switch that does work. I pulled the dash and could not find any wires visible there. Also looked in the drivers side front electrical bay, no wires there! I pulled the black cover on the fire wall in front of the steering column and found a single brown wire there. I pulled both engine hatch covers in the bedroom. I did not find any wire under the large hatch in the closet. I found 2 sets of wires under the small hatch. One set there is a white and brown wire, the white wire is spliced together with a butt connector the brown wire just exposed. The second set has a white and brown wire just looped. I crawled under the rear of coach on the passenger side and looked behind the electrical panel and the wiring along the chassis rail. NO wires that I could see. I looked around the compressor and fuel injection pump, NO wires there. I'm hesitant to try and use the 2 harnesses in the front for the compression/exhaust brake since they may be routed through the Allison controller. I'm going to get a tone tracer and see if I can trace the wires from the rear to the front and the one in the front. Does anyone have suggestions on other places to look.
  5. Todd, Can you post a link to the switch you ordered from Amazon, I was considering buying a spare or two. I have the parts pages for the dash and drivers side console and using the Monaco PN I was able to find some switches (I think) on the REV site. The parts pages also show the Vendor numbers but I have not had success using (or deciphering) those numbers. >> you can probably contact Carling and they could provide a replacement number. This one is for the auxillary start & Air Dump https://parts.revgroup.com/search?keyword=16624024 these are available. All the other Monaco numbers don't cross. If you have any success please post. 1 Dash Panel Parts breakdown.pdf 1 Driver Console parts breakdown.pdf 1 Driver Control Panel left Parts.pdf
  6. When I first bought my coach it had a slight leak developing and I successfully repaired with Gorilla poly glue, which held for +5 years. I then decided to go ahead and replace. In ~2014 I just replaced my with the same style but the new version is a better version of plastic/nylon. Mine still looks like new. One advantage is you can see the coolant level versus just having a sight glass. I bought mine from Guaranty RV who had the best price at the time. Bought the fittings at Lowes and the Ford sensor off Ebay. https://www.guaranty.com The original sensor on mine was a long probe that fit down through the top. The sensor I replaced it with was a FordXC4Z-10D968-AA https://www.ebay.com/itm/363303882231?epid=1311200436&hash=item5496994df7:g:Sd8AAOSwSUBgNthP The origianl sensor was a one wire, and as stated earlier, it sensed ground through the coolant. To test the sensor just disconnect the wires, which should break the ground and the alarm goes off. Take a wire from ground the the sensor wire and it should shut the alarm off. The Ford Sensor is a 2 prong type, the sell a wiring harness but I just used 2 small spad connectors and connected 2 wires and then connected to the original 1 wire. I used silicone to seal the where the wires go into the senor. The change was not hard. Veurinks shows they have both the metal and plastic tanks. https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/searchresults.asp?Search=tank&Submit= Source engineering may sell them but not listed on their website there is a video of at the bottom showing the tank, but there have been reports of poor welding on these tanks. http://sourcerv.com/ Talin use to make them but it won't bring up the link, you can give them a call http://talinman.com/talin-vector-coolant-surge-tank/
  7. Well I won't be doing that then, not worth the effort.
  8. While I was getting my garage built I had the coach parked off to the side not accessible to electric, I was having to rely on the 325 watt solar to keep the batteries charged. I found that I could turn the disconnect off and I could maintain the batteries without using the house battery disconnect which shuts off power to the whole house. Prior to this I seldom used the house disconnect. I've been working on my coach quite a bit lately and was concerned about my battery mainainer so I've been testing it and the house & chassis batteries. Yesterday, after reading all these posts on the "Salesman" switch I inspected it and when I touched it it was hot, could not hold my hand on it. No idea of how many watts of power it took to create that much heat in the solenoid but imagine it is quite a bit. I'm going to do some amp readings just to get an idea but I am leaning toward just bypassing the solenoid to save energy drain unless there is a more efficient option of keeping one in place.
  9. Here is the part you are looking for White Rogers 120-901 https://www.ebay.com/itm/124764933467?hash=item1d0c91cd5b:g:zJwAAOSwL~ZgwNOi
  10. Our home AC unit is sized properly. A while back I couldn't figure out why it continued to run while the thermostat was set at 73F and the temp was colder then that. I started checking and my very DW over road the temp setting and initiated humidity control down to 50%, which in TN I doubt it could ever get to. I had a long talk with her on how futile this was. My next step will be to install a lockable guard over the top of it 😝
  11. Do you know what sensor you installed. When I replaced my tank I used the plastic type, similar to the original. I used Ford sensor which is a 2 wire sensor. I just put the two wires together and then attached to the original sensor wire. I believe the system uses a Kysor low coolant alarm modual which actually senses ground through the coolant system. If the coolant level falls in the tank the Kysor module not sense ground it sends coolant alarm. Here's a link to info on it https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/KYSOR ALARMS SERVICE AND INSTALLATION.pdf So for the system to work correctly the coolant level has to be above the coolant sensor.
  12. The common denominator is the EMS system. On generator it does not limit the amp draw. To eliminate EMS component simply switch which relays the AC's connect to.
  13. To eliminate the EMS Intellitec system swap the wires from the breakers (or on the EMS board) and see if the front starts to kick out.
  14. When I first bought our coach I was changing the fuel filters and there was heavy layer of black slime almost clogging the primary filters, CRAP I've got Algae!! I had not noticed any power or performance issues. I did some research and started to used both Biobor and Startron enzyme treatment. When I store the coach for a long period I fill the tank full (up to the filler neck dribbling out) and then add both of the above >>> leave it and forget it. Never had a problem after that. Our last long trip was late 2015 and after that I was up to my neck in building a new house. Last year (YES, +5 years later) I started siphoning fuel out of the tank using it in my tractor, never saw any signs of algae. Then late last year I filled my tank with 85 gallons of fuel drove it ~75 miles without a problem. Finally took it last week on a trip and it did great.
  15. Been following this thread, not sure if it is the same topic/poster as on IRV2 but I posted a link to my Samsung install. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/samsung-install-finally-done-461001.html I decided to do something different and not have a shelf at all, I used heavy conduit struts, they make HEAVY 90 degree angle and bolts to tie pieces together https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut-1-5-8-in-x-1-5-8-in-Gold-Galvanized-Half-Slot-Channel-Strut/1000182121 I made two separate stands approximately the height I thought would work, secured them to the floor on either side of the furnace using the distance of the wheels on the refrigerator. I had made a dolly to help remove the Norcold refrigerator and made this the height to test fit the Samsung I bought. I ended up having to remove the two strut built supports and cutting them down an extra ~1/2" to be able to slide the fridge in, leaving me with ~1/4" to spare. That was the benefit of making 2 separate legs, easy to modify. After I made sure the fridge would fit I was able to secure them from moving by blocking the back and in the front I attached extra pieces of wood salvaged from the frame around the fridge to the same width of the legs and screwing to them. I reinforced this with extra wood on the back side not visible from the front. In the end I cold stand on the legs and they did not move at all. I added blocking to the back and sides to prevent the fridge from moving and to help guide it into place. Note that the rear wheels and front wheels are not aligned, the front is slightly wider so I aligned my legs to the rear which made it easier to slide the fridge in. On the front the wheels barely hit the legs but the weight is actually supported with on the heavy brackets attached to the leveling support bracket. I then attached angle piece to the sides of the fridge used the heavy selfadhesive tape and screwing into the side frame of the fridge, painted black you can hardly see. I was able to used heavy brackets modified and attached them to the lever brackets on bottom of the fridge and then screwing into the added blocking at the bottom. The bottom of the fridge sits almost on top of the furnace. The front that originally had a lourvered vent for the furnace was modified using the same stile/rail from but I just attached wire mesh screen to allow for better air flow. Not sure why the one picture is upside down but it shows how close the fridge it so the furnace. Th
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