jacwjames

You can download the air system schematic and might tell you where the line goes & purpose. 
When I worked on my air system I had one larger hose/tube that was coming in at an angle and had a small leak.  I replaced the Push to Connect fitting with a Compression type and got it to seal right up.

Here's a link to a manual I had in my files, it is for an 2005 model year, not sure if yours is different
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/transmissions/3000_4000_operators.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiVkLCiyZeFAxUNfjABHUtuB_YQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw2NZpxZ305ooaNKlC1xC-wO
There is a picture of the communication cable, drivers side. 

There is a tag on the dryer, you should be able to confirm make/model.  Just get one based on the numbers, they make after market but for this I'd stick with OEM.
Take lots of pictures, tag the hoses.  If a hose looks iffy I'd take the time to change. 

There should be a couple screws holding the resistor pack in, should just come right out after removing the screws.  Any auto parts store should have one.  I know the parts lists have them listed. 

You probably have a decorative cover over the AC unit in the front.  Look in you manual on how to change the AC filters.  Somehow the decorative cover has to fold down to give access to the AC filter.  The bolts that hold the AC unit are accessed by removing the filter.  4 bolts that will release the AC unit from the roof.
You also probably have AC condensate drains.  This requires 2 gaskets and my recommendation is to go ahead and replace the drain cups, they will be brittle and will probably break anyway. 

So hopefully this is my last update to my problem and final solution.
I took the Jeep over to the young mechanic next door and he tried to use his scanner but it was running so bad it wouldn't read, he said that's why it wasn't throwing codes.  He said that the lifters I bought were the problem, he doesn't recommend buying after market lifters unless they are from a place like Summit Racing etc. 
So after trying everything I finally decided to pull the lifters and send them back for a refund.  Ordered a set of Mopar lifters and got the last week and started going back with everything.  Cleaned the lifters with mineral spirits and soaked them in oil for a day and installed, went back with new gaskets and headbolts.  I screwed up when I was putting in the exhaust rocker arm assembly on the passenger side, I first grabbed the intake and started to go back using the intake side but couldn't get it to tighten down, then realized the problem but got everything back together and right now, this minute the engine is running top notch.  Sounds good, quite smooth idle, and fast fast fast acceleration.  Not sure how long it will last but right now it is finally fixed.
 
So hindsight being 20/20, I should have listened to my brother from the beginning and do a compression test.  This would have told me right away which cylinder I was having trouble with, then a quick check with the valve cover off would have shown me the lifter was working.  I wasted +3 WEEKS grabbing at straws trying to avoid having to change the lifters (which in my gut and internet searches was the root cause of the problem). 
Most importantly I should have listened to others who recommended buying good lifters to start with.
But in the end the job wasn't that bad considering the tight quarters I had to work in.   Learned some new stuff and in the future won't be afraid to dive right in. 
It also gave me an opportunity to buy some tools I needed and should have had in my tool box. 
I bought a stubby 1/4" air ratchet that was very handy for tight quarters and longer 3/8" drive ratchet.  Finally got some organizers for my sockets which makes finding the correct one quick.  Bought an extendable magnet retriever Bought a good rechargeable LED work light with magnet base.   
 

What amperage breaker is used to feed the microwave, the wiring should be sized for that breaker.
My coach is a 20 amp breaker.  Most residential microwaves require a 20 amp breaker, I installed a GE Profile microwave convection unit in our house and I sized the wiring that was recommended, which was 20 amp. 
East test, get an extension cord rated for 20 amps, plug it into an outlet from an outside source and see if the microwave works.  If it does I start checking connections in the outlet that you plug the microwave into and any J-Boxes that the wiring may go through. 

Send a PM to Dr4Film, Richard had the same fridge in his Windsor and had to do the modification to prevent the freezer from forming ice. 

Just a heads up, if you cannot find a 750 board you may have to upgrade to a 760 model which will require a new load meter and wiring harness change.  In 2014 I lost my 750 board to a lightening strike while plugged into an outlet on our house.  Lost a TV in the house and the EMS board in the RV, could have been much worse.  10 years ago the 750 boards were nonexistent so you'll be lucky to find one now. 

When I had to replace a ~4X6' section of flooring right behind the passenger seat in 2021.  I did my best to not damage the fabric.  I cut it a couple places but most of it was in tact.  But what to do with it.
I decided to use treated plywood as the first layer, I primed it and then got creative.  I put a bunch of liquid spread on the bottom of the plywood, used a caulk gun and then large putty know to spread it out.  Dropped it into place, fastened it down with a couple self tapping screws.  Then quickly went underneath with a paint roller and pushed the fabric into the liquid nail to bond it to the plywood.  Seemed to work pretty good.  When I was done with the flooring I bought a couple cans of the Flexseal and sprayed all over underneath where fabric was. 
Seems to be holding up pretty good but time will tell.

X2 on what Gary says.
First time I replaced my carpeting with laminate I cut the carpet back enough to lay new flooring.  Then in 2021 I replaced the laminate with LVP Pergo and decided to get the remnants of carpet out.  It was difficult, used a long needle nose vise grip and a lot of force to pull while using a flat pry bar to get the staples to release (the installers of the carpet must have been paid by the number of staples they put in).  Finally got it all out.
On my slide, which is elevated higher then yours, two of the rollers are mounted in the slide under the kitchen cabinets and two are mounted in the floor under the couch.  I can access these by removing plastic covers, one is in the basement and one is in the front drivers side wheel well.  I had to remove some of the carpet from underneath and it was difficult due to limited access.  These were the pieces that between the roller and the side of the coach. 
In the end not sure if it was necessary but once I started I was determined to get out all the carpeting. 

I actually put he fridge in the cabinet, fastened feet anchor, and made sure it was centered in the hole.  I had precut and drilled the angle and painted the exposed sides, attached the HD 3M tape and then placed them onto the fridge where I wanted them so that they would be tight to the wood.  I then made sure the screws that I installed were pressing toward the fridge to make sure the angle was as tight as possible to the fridge.   That way I didn't have to do much measuring and the fridge was where it needed to be. 
I think the blocking that I put at the rear of the fridge on the sides and back help, it can't shift side to side or front to back, pretty much locked in place. 
Hasn't move at all since install and doubt it ever will.   I've put ~20K miles on since then over some pretty rough roads and a couple hard braking instances. 

My baggage doors lift up.  I had two baggage doors that would hang up so I drilled a hole where the latch engages the strike plate so I can used a screw driver to push the latch up.  You'll have to measure the offset needed to drill a hole in the right place.  Measure on a door you can get open, measure from the side of the latch to the edge of the door and then from the latch to the edge of the door and figure the offset, then just measure to the edge of the latch of the door you can't get open and add the offset. 
But yesterday had the same issue so I dug into it.  Turns out the latch lever that pulls the latch up was bent down a little and would not lift the latch high enough to clear the striker plate.   Once you get the door open it's easy to check, pull the handle to see if the latch is being pulled all the way up, if not use a crescent wrench to slightly bend the lever up. 

SWAG
Air horn solenoid

Make sure all the breakers in the main panel are on.  The Intellitec EMS uses a couple of the breakers for control voltage and if one is off it won't display.

I just did a 800 mile final run home with some of it in the E TN "large" hills!..   I look ahead and if possible I'll give it full throttle as I'm approaching a large hill.  If I time it right I gain enough momentum and can keep a pretty good speed up the long grades, most of the time doing better then most of the trucks.  If for some reason (traffic) I can't do that I'll be in the slow lane crawling up the grade. 

The one I reset was a 5 button thermostat,
I shut the thermostat off, held the top and bottom (mode & zone) buttons down and turned it on, then released the buttons.  The screen should show FF which indicates it reset.
 

Fixed.
I am embarrassed, it was the darn fuse.  I had pulled it yesterday and checked it visually, looked fine.  Today first thing I did was get my meter and ohm the fuse, it was bad and after a closer look saw it was blown.
New fuse, lights worked.  Lesson learned and wasted a couple hours yesterday. 

This might be it, I replaced mine when I went through my system, had to replace all PPV's but decided to replace any type of fitting that could fail so I replaced this check valve
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152778312368?hash=item23924c0ab0:g:dQMAAOSw1QpaAhYU&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4NKxpC2VyFTLK2q%2FAPryUhFKAV8C6xgWtlTubhmM3yi9eVCzKyxx6d23mydCDQS2pw3F6D2lk%2F82j%2FA8jJ0VU8DmAogq7FdVZMSd7rYXhHeTky8Sd00X%2BQ438TcKgMukPm3DA64azawHWBCOp4Kfy0bQ3t8UpNxNnNsHmaZwlZQBzHgiIgI0unpnPMK2pvwPVTfJ3wRuU8jqgnQ1tHzXyeqfLPf9JBGptafN%2BxhXk6St9Vtofff3ccXPC0h5NstZif%2ByI8tzeGi%2BmX3gSMxJTTiJCr2xuyAEjYO2UrXRDd%2B5|tkp%3ABk9SR5i2nevDYg

Don't take a chance on cooler if there is a chance coolant could get into the tranny.  Another member had a tranny cooler internal to the radiator that failed and it ended up costing +$20K for tranny, radiator change.
You consider adding a separate cooler for the tranny, I added one to augment my radiator/tranny cooler.  It is a Derale like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VQGVSU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had my radiator changed in and the manufacturer did not size the tranny cooler correctly and my tranny temps were going to +230F at times.  Decided to add the cooler and the result now my temps peak at 178F.  So I had a 50F delta change in temps. 
Another member with a Dynasty  decided to abandon the original cooler and install a separate one, he provided me general info and I mirrored his install.  Installed mine on drivers side at front of engine where I had good access.  I mounted two heavy vertical 1.5" tubes, no welding just used heaver self tapping screws.  Ran a wire from my electrical bay rear passenger side.  Used a thermal snap disc to start/stop the fan, starts at 145F. 
Last long trip my temps never exceeded 178F in pretty hot weather climbing steep grades. 
 

Do you know the make model of the toilet?  Does it look like this  https://www.thetford.com/product/aria-deluxe-ii/
I know that on mine I have an inline fuse in the wiring behind the toilet and there is also a fuse in the fuse panel.
The older toilets had a problem with the circuit board malfunctioning causing it to flush continuously but not open the gate valve causing the toilet to overflow.  They have come out with a new circuit board that limits the flushed to 10 then stops.  You then have to press the flush button again to fill the bowl more. 

This was the lesson in grad school when I got my MBA.  And it's probably true. 
I had a real bad experience with a Ford Chassis on a Class C.  After 5 major mechanical issues, of which only one was covered under warranty, I sent a registered letter to Henry Clay Ford Jr, CEO of Ford at the time.  Finally got a call from a customer service rep, first thing he did was suggest it was a lack of maintenance that caused the problem.  I let him go down that path for a minute and then jumped and explained my background, education (Eng, MBA, Master in Industrial Engineering with an emphasis in Lean Manufacturing that included the Quality Six Sigma course work).  I told him that the problems I had were simply poor quality and that my rig pretty much blew the Ford Quality #1 program right out of the water.  He stuttered and an walked back his comments.  I did mention that saying about a dissatisfied customer telling 100 people.  >>>>  I'm up into the 1000's considering how many time I've posted about the issues. 
My basement outlet was daisy chained off the same circuit the 1/2 bath and bedroom were on.  In my case it does have a dedicated GFCI in the inverter subpanel.  The power that was behind my fridge were two circuits, one inverted and one off the main panel.  So I had the option to use the inverter if driving or shorepower if parked. 
When I installed my Samsung I had to get every bit of height I could.  Really could do anything at the ceiling as I had to be able to open the fridge door and miss the light right in front of it.  When I was done I had ~1/2" of clearance above the furnace. 

Advice from most people is not too fool with it. 
But sometime you gotta do what you gotta do >>>>   I had a bad area passenger side starting below the upper beltline all the way to the lower beltline.  This was caused by a bad section of upper beltline where the rear cap met the roof, there was a hump in the fiberglass and my guess is the caulk failed there allowing water into the beltline which worked its way under the fiberglass side and all the way down the beltline going down the rear.   
I did get advise from a RV tech that worked at a large repair shop that worked on RV's.  He came over and looked at my issue and I told him what I wanted to do and he said it "might" work.  He said that on smaller spots they would drill a hole into the area from the outside and then inject epoxy behind the fiberglass and with the RV close to a solid structure use a large piece of plywood against the RV and 2X4's jammed against the structure push against the side of the RV and let it cure. 
Here is a thread I did, it was a big job, overall turned out OK except............. read the thread
I used a two part West epoxy,  There are others.  But the only problem with epoxy is that you really don't have any control where it goes when you are pouring it in.  Every hole/crack has to be sealed.  I had anticipated this (I thought).  I spent time taping lower openings and seams.  My first "pour" the epoxy came out into the void at the back of the coach, running down on the inside in an area I couldn't access to try and seal.  So I stopped and put pressure on the outside of the coach and let it cure.  That sealed this area for me to continue doing pours, doing about 1-2 ft at a time, putting pressure on the outside of the flat form I made.  The reason I did it this way was that the epoxy would have built up pressure behind the fiberglass and left a bulge in the fiberglass.   The last area I did I actually injected it using a long piece of copper tubing, a plastic bottle, and an air nozzle to push the epoxy out of the bottle, through the tubing up into the void. 
The other thing is that if you get epoxy on anything you have to get it off ASAP because if it cures you are screwed >>>> Epoxy Oh NO!!  In my case the epoxy had run out of a hole where the dryer vent was under the plastic I had put on the side of the motorhome.  Didn't see it until I was done.  No way to get it off, ended up scraping it off, sanding and then repainting the area.  The paint turned out good but the clear coat didn't blend with the old.  Not that noticable but I see it every time I look for it. 
One issue is that the way the coach is constructed.  The fiberglass is attached to the side first.  The side is then attached to the chassis and the motorhome with probably the read cap as the inside is assembled.  At some point the roof is dropped onto the coach.  Both the rear cap and the roof overlap the side fiberglass.  There is not way to get epoxy behind the side fiberglass without drilling a bunch of holes at the seam.
 
 

The first time I did our coach I used a snap lock type laminate floor.   It actually held up well but unfortunately I had a leak that caused soft floor and had to tear it all up again but was surprised the floor was still in good shape, when I installed the snap lock I did use a glue in the snap lock joints (not on the floor) also and it helped as the flooring came out in pretty large section.  This was floating floor.
This time I went back with LVP Pergo from Lowes, the salesman said it was the best the offered, time will tell.  This is a floating floor and so far so good.  Here's a link I did on the install, not fixing the floor wasn't an option, turned out to be ~4X6' area right behind the passenger seat.  After fixing the floor putting in the LVP just took time. 
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/new-flooring-tricks-564571.html

X2 on this.  If you still have the old door it can either be fixed or duplicated.  A good body shop can probably make or point you to someone who can.  A shop that works of car restorations of modifications probably can make.
I was lucky when my wife sideswiped a pole pulling out of a fueling station.  The pole was the same height as the bottom of the slide.  I slight bent the bottom slide extrusion but it pancaked the top hinge system on 2 doors.  Two doors had heavy scratches and one small door was bent in and slightly warped.  I pulled them all off and was able to get the two pieces of the hinge system.  The small door I clamped to a heavy bench and used large pipe wrenches with the wood to protect the door and was able to bend the door back straight and get most of the large dent out.  Had to use a small amount of bondo fix the remainder of the dent.  Then painting the 3 colors.  Overall turned out pretty good.