pcpronze

Thannks Steve plan on getting under Saturday.

Steve Thank You for a direction. I will be under it and see if I can locate the sensors. Would you by chance have a part number? Thanks Frank I just checked and have registered some time ago. I now have a couple of avenues to continue.

I thank all of you for your help in this matter. In going thru the drawings I could find on this site, ones on Ramblin Pushers along with the book of drawings that came with the MH all are lacking and do not contain how the throttle, jake brake and the cruise control are all interconnected. The jake seems to work with the cruise but is intermittent when I actually hit the on switch for the jake. What I am at is does anyone have a possible recommendation of a service place out west. We winter in Tucson, AZ. I will drive to the place that will solve this issue. Going thru the mountains is a lot of work and scary when you are unsure if the brake will come on or if it will stay on. I called REV in Indiana and the tech was honest and said that they had few drawings and no techs of that era. So I am open to suggestions or info to trouble shoot or take the coach to a tech.

I get the Stop engine lite on mine and have spent thousands with Cummins to fix it. They claim it is a communication issue between the accelerator and the ECM. All gauge functions read normal at the time but I lose foot throttle control. I can drive with the cruise control at this time, and it will clear itself. I have had accelerator replaced because they said it was faulty, problem subsided for a couple years now back and Cumins says it is a Monaco issue and Monaco says it is a Cummins issue. Good luck hope yours is the oil sensor.

Yoaks5 the function is the same as yours and the equipment including Vorad. If you can check PCB8 and see if any engine brake lights are lite up when the key is in on position, engine running but in neutral with brake on, with the first stage initiated. Now the pedal position sensor is another interesting issue. The pedal was changed by Cummins 7 years ago but was or is just as obsolete as the original. Thanks for input. Paul

I have looked at the light on PCB #8 in front compartment and did not see any lights with key on. But the unit was in neutral with engine off. I tried engine on but still in neutral and had same result. I do not have a role foot pedal only two switches on consul, low must be turned on then high added. There may be interlocks that I do not know about and is why I would like to know how the system actually operates. Thanks for the response.

Well after further probing I have found nothing. There are two boards in the compartment below the driver that have lights on them but unfortunately you cannot see them when driving and when parked none of the lights come on but should they? It rained one day as we traveled out to Quartzite. The brake worked every time. It was dry coming back and it did not work. So what does that say?? And no, I am not just driving down hill in the rain. The big question is how does this system work? Cummins, after spending $$$ says it is Monaco's design and how it interfaces thru the coach system. So where do you go for a knowledgeable person to talk to or service the unit. Any and all help is appreciated.

Here is a test of penetrating oil for you to make your decision. I had my exhaust manifold gaskets changed this spring at Ronnie's in Elkart and I have 150,000 miles on my 05 Navigator. and there were no broken bolts. So I guess it is the luck of the draw or are they prevalent to breakage? Good luck

I had the same problem with my tank in 2016. The coolant was getting in the hot water and if the water pump was running it would push water into the tank and out the overflow tank. I pulled the tank and cut it open. I found that the two coils, engine antifreeze 3/4" and house hot water 1/2", rubbed against each other till the house wore thru. Long story short I took it to a weld shop in the area and had them put a coupling on the line and weld close and pressure test. The cost was $210.00 out the door. They said they fix carpet steam machines quite often that the people never seem to think about winterization. I called the aqua Hot reps that came to the 419 rally in Indiana and the Rep in Colorado along with the factory to find out what is in the tank and all I got was that it was proprietary information. Well after I spoke with the fellow in Colorado and told him I have it cut open the price to repair the open tank and return dropped in half. My system is still running today. It is just a tank with two coper coils inside.

Well we just returned from a trip and I have decided to take the problem of Jake brake to the shop. I had the brake operational part of the time only. When we left it worked about 3 times as I was trying it to make sure that was the problem. At some points it even kicked out when going down a grade. I will see what the shop comes up with. I did see a schematic from a 2003 and it looks like the switch goes to the ECM, but in mine in the driver side electrical relay fuse door below the driver there is a circuit board with a light that says "engine brake OK". I dont see how that comes into the schematic. To be continued.

Sorry for the long time between post but the coach is not at the house and life in retirement can sure get busy. Back to the subject, I removed the switch and checked the contacts and only got a circuit change of status on one set of contacts that I presume is the light on the switch. I also checked the coach circuit wiring with an OHM meter and found it to have 3K ohm resistance. I ordered a new switch and received it Saturday, installed it today and hope to check it this week and report back. Checking the new switch, I did get two sets of contacts that changed status, so my fingers are crossed. Thanks for the help to this point.

I have a 1st stage and a second stage which is an addition to the first stage. 3 cylinders when you turn it on and then you can add the second which puts all cylinders in play. First stage must be turned on though. It does not make any difference if cruise is on or off. I have separate switches on the left consul to turn on the brake, no foot switch. Thanks for the input.

I will pull the switch and see what it reads. The shop I had it at could not find an issue when tied to the ECM. Intermittent really is the issue. If when it happens, I could pull over and do some checking without interrogating the ECM it might help.

Hello I have been a follower of this column for some time and really appreciate the information I can gain from all your experiences. I have a persistent issue with the Jake Brake. Mine is a two stage, low to initiate three cylinders and then, if necessary, the second switch to kick in the last three cylinders. My issue is that it works only randomly when tried. I have taken it to a capable garage that said it was due to the EGR valve hanging and not always making full closure or open. The EGR was changed and I have noticed better speed control on hills. But the Jake Brake does not seem to have improved. I just made a 265 mile trip from Ann Arbor, MI to Petosky, MI. Brake worked every time I put it on going up. Sat for a week headed back south and about one hour into the trip I hit the Jake Brake and it did not come in. So I constantly tried it at every opportunity coming back and it did not work once. The lite on the switch illuminates every time I turn it on but that is the extent of the reaction. This is not the only time this has occurred like this, I am most confident that when I start it up again it will respond perfectly, especially if I make an appointment to take it somewhere. We winter out West and the mountains thru Colorado get darn scary when you hit the switch and nothing happens. Does anyone have a schematic of the circuit so perhaps I could do some trouble shooting when it occurs? I don't know if it is direct link thru the ECM or thru relays. I never get a fault lite or warning just no reaction. Thanks Paul 05 Navigator

I purchased a set from IDOC and I must say they are much better by far then the original Atwood units. The kids even send a thank you note with the order which is a very personal and thoughtful gesture. These kids are doing an outstanding job. I totally appreciate their product and their professionalism. Keep up the good work. Paul

There is also a pressure relief valve in the system. If by chance you had a quick surge of pressure it may have relieved and just never totally reseated. This valve does not get much use, if any and it drains inside the stainless steel case just in front of the tank. That would be an easy fix. I had mine leak a couple years ago.

That is interesting about a chip for the ISM. I have heard about the "Dirty fix". I have the ISM also, I attended several seminars at the Ramblin Pushers 419 with Allison and Cummins together. The word was that the econo mode was for city driving. They also said that it did not really do much one way or the other.

I have the Lifeline on the 8th year and going well. They were expensive but when you hear of length of life of other brands are they really?

Great job. That's interesting that your coil is on the outside. I rebuilt mine, 05 vintage, and it was on the inside and is only 13-1/2" loops.

One additional piece of info. The part number for the board that corresponds to the penguin 2 model 651816CXX1CO is P/N 3312227.000.

I installed 8 Lifeline 6v AGM batteries in 2013 and they are still going. We do dry camping while traveling and have stayed at an occasional primitive camp ground. I do equalization randomly. I would do this again since there is really no maintenance and I have not seen any corrosion.

Thanks for all the info I did find the control board behind the front thermostat. It was in a false wall in a cupboard in the kitchen area. I took the metal box out that had most of the wires cut off since there is no AC unit to go to and replaced the circuit with one just like the existing one in the new AC unit, which I had on hand. I did not notice the false panel at first due to the hinge placement and the location of the screws on the door. The unit is up and running and I now have two zones on the rear AC/heatpump area. I had checked all areas in the zone two which were the false wall behind the thermostat for zone 1 and 2 and under the false floor under the two sinks and under the floor of one of the cabinets with the heat sensor. Thanks for all you help.

Thanks for the guess but I did remove that wall and no board just the back of the thermostat and the electrical switches located in that area. The size of the box is good information. I am still hunting.

Thanks for the response. That is the story I have picked up but the real question is where they hid the board. The false wall section behind the thermostat has the data cable headed up toward the ceiling. The next area I am thinking about is where the actual temperature sensor is located, which is on the other side of the room at the bottom of a vanity cabinet. I well report back on my findings.

I have talked with 2 Dometic techs with no help they said it was Aqua Hots problem. Aqua Hot says it gets its signal from Dometic. It just seems odd that none of the drawings show where the control is wired into. I put the CCC2 in to modernize verses continue with the 5 button.