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wamcneil last won the day on January 19

wamcneil had the most liked content!

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    21677 N Ranch Rd 187, #236, Utopia, Texas, 78884

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  1. Ok, so I've got this about ready to reassemble, but I'm having some 2nd thoughts. Could use some advice... At this point, I could put up a layer of 1/8" doorskin, and then foam/vinyl. But that might be a tremendous PITA and I'm wondering if there's a better way. First question is: why is there 3/4" plywood overhead in this section? It looks like the panel to the rear of it is 1-1/2" foam board with doorskin glued to the bottom face, and then foam/vinyl. This forward-most section is 3/4" foam, then 3/4" plywood, 1/8" doorskin and then foam/vinyl. I suspect that the 3/4" plywood i
  2. Hi all, Couple-years ago my coolant reservoir was cracked and I couldn't find a reasonably-priced replacement, so I fixed it with epoxy. While I wasn't super-excited about trying to fix the poly tank with epoxy it has held up so far (not being pressurized...). Anyway, in the course of fixing my AH filler neck and searching for a new pressurized coolant tank, I came across this 6-qt reservoir: 6 Quart Natural Multi Purpose Tank with Mounting Tabs - 8.62" L x 4.17" W x 15.29" Hgt. (2.25" Neck) | U.S. Plastic Corp. That really looks like the original tank to me! Minus the AH
  3. I read a article in a boating magazine that also recommended this approach. Cheers Walter
  4. I can vouch for this configuration. My rig came stock with two group 31s in parallel. Cheers Walter
  5. Ok, now it makes sense. Somebody mentioned a repair kit using heat-shrink. He’s using some kind of Uber-shrink instead of trying to get a hose clamp down in there. If I ever wind up clamping to that pipe, I’ll use an elbow hose to turn it horizontal and use a remote filler cap outboard where it can be. accessed by human hands! cheers Walter
  6. Just a follow-up. The radiator cap brass filler neck is soldered to the top edge of a 1-1/2" OD steel tube coming out the top of the AH tank. Just the very top edge of the tube is soldered to the filler neck. It's not like the filler has a sleeve that fits down tight into the pipe and is soldered securely. It's just perched atop the tube and is soldered to the edge of the pipe only. This solder joint had cracked. Very little coolant was escaping, but the crack mainly allowed air to seep into the tank when cooling. So coolant gets pushed out to the overflow reservoir, and then air get
  7. Where are the speakers located? Are they up close to the front? (Dash radio) or are they back towards the middle of the coach (surround sound for home theater) cheer Walter
  8. Are you sure quickserve is giving the wrong P/N? Cummins seems to supersede parts pretty frequently. Entirely possible that your old part has been replaced at least once. Cheers Walter
  9. Got my plug ordered! Thanks again
  10. Thanks Ivan. That’s exactly what I need. I thought of trying to make some kind of hollow expanding bung like that, but I didn’t realize I could buy a ready-made test plug! How easily did your cap come off? Since there’s already a crack started, I wonder if I can work it up and down gently to get it off altogether. Thanks Walter
  11. I can't remember if it was on this forum or irv2, but I remember somebody mentioning they had a leak at the filler neck and somehow pulled the top off of the tube, then used hose and hose clamps to joint the two. Would that be practical to do without pulling the AH out?
  12. Well, my saga continues... and I think I have the same problem as this... After a number of cycles, coolant accumulates in the surge tank and then there's no overflow when the unit heats up. Apparently it's leaking a little around the filler neck and pulling in air as it cools. Eventually the level stabilizes with about 1/2 gallon of air in the heater tank when cold. I can see a little seepage at the radiator neck as it heats up. Apparently coolant leaks out of the crack slower than the air is pulled back in, so some of the ejected coolant just stays in the overflow bottle each time
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