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wamcneil

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Everything posted by wamcneil

  1. That's an interesting idea... but crazy prices and they're not the only game in town... Poly Performance Portable CO2 Tire Inflation Kit w/ 15lb Tank (2304) I keep a 15 lb CO2 tank around for making carbonated water. Maybe I should get a regulator and try that instead of the compressor! Or... there are really cheap options for putting a tire inflator on a dive tank.
  2. I take it back... There are a fair number of new features that would be nice. "If your inverter does not have the required compatibility level for a feature/setting you want, contact Magnum Energy to determine if there is a software upgrade option for your inverter." I suspect the 'upgrade' comes in the form of a new circuit board... Here's the ME-ARC compatibility matrix. Apparently I don't have 'level 4'. It would be nice to have the Rebulk setting in Final Charge Setting Features are determined by the combination of ME-ARC and inverter revision. Apparently I have a 'Leve
  3. Well, I lost enthusiasm for spending money to replace the control board in the middle AC unit. If anyone has a CCC2 board laying around from a failed unit they'd like to donate to the effort I'll try it. But couldn't find a cheap CCC2 board with ambient sensor. Almost there on the middle AC though!!!! I found a deal on a new Penguin II for the middle and am starting to wire it to the front CCC2. I managed to push a fiberglass fish alongside the duct from middle to front unit. The hard part was keeping the fish from going up and riding on top of the center ductwork. Once I managed to
  4. I I don't think they're built for that. Probably not without swapping out a circuit board. But I don't think there are any significant new 'features' in later versions of the inverter anyway. Maybe they have some additional preconfigured charge profiles, but those are nothing but a preconfigured set of charge parameters that can easily be duplicated in the custom settings. Nothing magic about them. Don't be afraid to set up a custom charge profile to match whatever Trojan recommends. Cheers, Walter
  5. I’m kind of a tool snob... but for some things I go to harbor freight. For stationary intermittent shop use, I think Harbor freight compressors are hard to beat. If it’s not being moved around, a bigger tank is always better IMO. But for MH tires I keep a small Bostich 1.2gal in the forward bay. I find the oil-free pancake compressors to be unpleasantly loud. For me, noise was a primary criteria for the portable unit. Cheers Walter
  6. Yeah, I'd think switching under a load like that would be bad for the transfer stitch and the loads. I turn all my big stuff off before plugging/unplugging/starting generator Don't forget the battery charger. The charger can contribute a lot to the AC load when you plug in and it's bulk charging. With 2 ACs running, three's not much left out of the 30a service.
  7. Look up underneath it. You'll see a tab against the wall. Gently pry down on that tab, pull the bottom out away from the wall and then lift the front cover up.
  8. Here's an explanation. What is Amp Hour Capacity? : Technical Support (rollsbattery.com) The label means if you discharge the battery at a rate of about 34amps, it'll do that for 5 hours before the voltage falls below 10.5v. 5hr x 34.2 amps = 171 ah. If you discharge the battery at 5 amps, you'll get more than 171 ah out of it, If you discharge it at 75 amps, it'll do that for 115 min and you'll get about 144 ah out of it. if you discharge at 100a, you'll get a lot less than that. Cheers, Walter
  9. Not sure if this entirely relevant to the conversation, but something I’ve seen only recently. Since upgrading to a new penguin II and CCC2, I’ve noticed that it switches itself from heat pump to AH right about freezing. The CCC2 still indicates AH, but it turns on the heat pump instead. Once ambient temp rises, the HP comes back on. As far as I can tell, I don’t have any control of the behavior cheers Walter
  10. Sure. Will do. I've got a new rooftop unit sitting out beside the motorhome to install in that middle hole very soon. My plan is to run a fish tape up beside the duct overhead and try to pull a cable between the two units. Wish me luck... Cheers. Walter
  11. I can't speak to the cost specifically, but I think I understand the requiring requirements . At least in my RV... The wall thermostat is connected to the first rooftop unit by a phone cable. you should already have that cable, and that first unit will be Zone1. Then the other rooftop units are daisy-chained to Zone1 with a phone cable (Thermostat>>Zone1>>Zone2>>Zone3>>Zone4) Only the first rooftop unit (Zone1) can use the temp sensor in the wall thermostat. Any other rooftop units that are daisy-chained off of Zone1 will each require a remote temp sensor
  12. I didn't read all of that review, but in Final Verdict he thought the user interface isn't polished enough to justify its price, but he mostly didn't like it because the protocol is too secure for him to hack it for use with his highly complex self-developed automations systems. I'm wishing I'd tried one instead of the CCC 2. That's a high-volume product that should (IMO) absolutely be engineered a lot better than it is. I think I can forgive a clunky UI in the low-volume aftermarket unit, in exchange for a LOT more functionality. Other than an easier reading screen, I'm not a big
  13. They're here! The box is very nice and tidy. All the seams welded, rivnuts on the fasteners. And the box is built exactly to my dimensions. Everything is glued together inside so I can't get a good look at the cells without peeling it all apart. The BMS is about the only part I can get to without peeling away a bunch of adhesive, foam and insulating panels. It's locates on the top. The BMS appears to be adequate.. It's 'advertised' as: Continuous charging current: 100A Continuous discharge current: 300A Maximum charging current: 150A Maximum charging vol
  14. Nice. Interested to hear how they do on the trip.
  15. Today's the day!!! 2-1/2 months later... Batteries are on the UPS truck for delivery.
  16. Yeah... he did say that... I'm really curious to find out how he plugged into something other than a NEMA 14-50R receptacle!
  17. X2. And NEMA 14-50r is the only dryer plug I have ever seen that an RV could be plugged into without getting pretty creative.
  18. No, the 30a RV plug is 120v. It’s one hot, neutral and ground, just like the 3-prong outlets in the house. The one hot leg is jumpered to both hot legs inside the 30a-50a adapter. I doubt he could have done anything bad here unless he kludged his own adapter with kitchen utensils and tinfoil. And even if he did... I think the transfer switch will catch the hot neutral and not engage. Cheers Walter
  19. What????? He doesn’t say what kind of dryer plug it is, so potentially there’s a problem if he’s got an old 3-wire dryer plug with no neutral conductor . Or if he somehow connected the old 3-wire 240v dryer plug like it was a 120v 30a RV plug. But if he’s got a 4-wire plug in his laundry room... there’s no difference between a NEMA 14-50R 240v outlet in your laundry room and the same NEMA 14-50R outlet in the RV park power pole. Except maybe the dryer circuit has a 30a breaker in it. (Which won’t hurt anything) True, there’s nothing in the RV that uses BOTH legs of 240v power, but ma
  20. Well, I’m hoping I don’t need to rapid-charge the batteries from the alternator, so no plan to modify the alternator at this point. DC/DC charger is on the short list. But initially I’ll just isolate the house from chassis and see how that works out. I figure I won’t be running a lot of house loads while underway, and I should still have solar underway too. So maybe I can just keep them isolated (except for the combiner relay). Ive got a small battery maintainer to plug into the block heater outlet to keep the chassis batteries charged while parked. 2 more days till the batteries
  21. Ugh. Almost 2 months later... and batteries still not arrived. They cleared customs, and then sat in the port in CA for couple weeks. Now finally in the possession of UPS and will arrive next week!
  22. It’s been about 4 yr since I’ve looked at them. At that time there was very little selection in compact home-theater-in-a-box. Samsung was about the only one I could find that would fit my cabinet, I think Samsung discontinued them tho... Might be able to find a used one cheap on eBay without the speakers and reuse yours. Cheers Walter
  23. If you replace the amp with a Samsung home theater, the Samsung TV remote will control both systems seamlessly (when linked via the HDMI cable). Samsung calls this “AnyNet”, but it works over a standard HDMI based communication protocol called HDMI-CEC. Both units turn on/off together, and the tv automatically knows audio is being handled by the home theater unit. I’ve got a Samsung compact ‘home theater in a box’ Blu-ray (HT-H4500 I think?) with Samsung TV. It all works very smoothly together. This setup worked with the 10-yr old (NOT-smart) Samsung TV that came with the motorhome an
  24. Ok, so I've got this about ready to reassemble, but I'm having some 2nd thoughts. Could use some advice... At this point, I could put up a layer of 1/8" doorskin, and then foam/vinyl. But that might be a tremendous PITA and I'm wondering if there's a better way. First question is: why is there 3/4" plywood overhead in this section? It looks like the panel to the rear of it is 1-1/2" foam board with doorskin glued to the bottom face, and then foam/vinyl. This forward-most section is 3/4" foam, then 3/4" plywood, 1/8" doorskin and then foam/vinyl. I suspect that the 3/4" plywood i
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