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wamcneil

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Everything posted by wamcneil

  1. The “procedure” is basically drain and refill. My OCD requires a flush with distilled water also, but Cummins say’s that is not necessary. You asked what everyone else is doing… and I think a lot of us use an extended life HD coolant that is much better than what is spec’d for the generator, and then pretty much never change it again. If you want to continue to use conventional coolant, probably best to follow the maintenance schedule for conventional coolant. W
  2. My clunking was broken off upper shock mount stud.
  3. There seems to be a misconception that any "float" stage will continuously force current through the battery. That's not the case with lifepo4. As long as 'float' voltage is at or below the resting voltage of the battery, it'll just hold that state of charge and current through the battery will be zero.
  4. As I recall, magnum disables temp compensation ONLY in the lithium profile and there is no option to disable it in custom settings or any other charge profile. I think I called tech support to confirm that. Been a few years… Yes. I’m using custom settings that are a form of cc/cv. I have significant voltage drop in my ridiculously long cables, so my settings are partially to work around that limitation
  5. Yes. Temperature compensation works by raising the voltage by some small amount per degree below 70deg F. That will crank the voltage ABOVE your set point . Lead acid batteries will tolerate higher charge voltage when cold. I discovered this one cold morning after fixing my long-time nonfunctional temp sensor.
  6. When docked, I actually don’t use the magnum “lithium” profile for this reason (mainly…). I have the float voltage set to maintain about 50% and once the battery voltage falls to that point, the charger supplies whatever the load is. Lifepo4 cells have a maximum voltage of something like 14.6v (3.65 x4). So if the voltage set point is lower than 14.6v, the battery won’t be overcharged. The battery will last longer if not held at a high voltage, but float voltage cannot drive current through the battery if the battery resting voltage is at or below float voltage. Something important that I forgot to mention earlier…. The battery temp compensation should be turned off, or if it can’t be turned off (ie- magnum charger), then unplug the temp sensor. Otherwise in cold temperatures it will crank up the voltage set points.
  7. Float is a voltage set point. If float voltage is higher than the resting voltage of the battery, a current will be induced. This is the case with a lead acid battery. If float voltage is lower than the battery resting voltage there will be no current. That’s what happens with a lithium battery. The lithium chemistry doesn’t need to be float charged, and the battery lifespan will be shorter if continuously held at 100%. That’s why a lithium charge profile will end without holding a float voltage.
  8. Tom: do you have a lithium battery??? Just wondering if you have skin in the game
  9. Something went haywire with the xantrex built in AGS. Every time I would start the generator, the AGS would shut it back down. That was the primary motivation. Thought that might be a sign of bigger failures in the future. Plus I wanted true sine. Did lithium and solar shortly after replacing the inverter. I never really looked into how customizable the xantrex charger is
  10. Magnum has a very good reputation. I think he means that if you had a really old Magnum, it would probably be better to upgrade the inverter. As long as you have the capability to manually set all of the charging voltages, you don't need any charging profiles labeled "lithium". I replaced the original 2003 xantrex with magnum ms2012 3-4 years ago. This was very close to being a direct replacement for the xantrex, with just slight modification to the mounting and wiring. For me, that was the 80/20 solution. In terms of internet-connected features, Magnum is pretty archaic, but it gets the job done. Sure, I would love to have a flagship victron hybrid system. It's undeniably cool, totally integrated and has lots and lots of features that magnum doesn't have. But I'm just not willing to go to the trouble and expense it takes to really benefit from all of those features. If I ever do make another big change to my system, it'll be 24v (or maybe even 36v/48v), that's for sure. It's just silly to try and deal with 3kw@12v.
  11. IMO that's a compelling reason to upgrade to the bluetooth version of the DC-DC converter. I didn't think about that before I got the plain version and the only setting is output voltage. It would be really nice to set cut-in and cut-out voltages.
  12. no. It's just a plain Victron Orion-TR DC-DC 18AMP ORI121222110. I figured that in this application I wouldn't be interested in any of the bluetooth features. Output voltage is just set with a potentiometer
  13. What's the motivation to replace the inverter? Surely victron doesn't have multiple on-board chargers to maintian house and chassis separately? It's been a couple years since I've shopped for an inverter, but at that time, magnum and xantrex were the only vendors that I could find with dual-in/dual-out.
  14. That was my first approach before installing a dc-dc converter. In general, I like this approach, but I wound up replacing it with a dc-dc converter. My first attempt was to upgrade the small "smart" battery charger I keep in the garage and use that old noco "smart" battery charger zip-tied overhead and plugged into the block heater port to maintain the chassis battery. That "smart" battery charger would periodically get confused and decide the chassis batteries were bad and shut down. And of course I wouldn't discover this till the battery was dead... So I replaced it with a bigger fixed-mount 10a noco "smart" charger, which worked better, but every now and then would get confused and shut down... and the battery would go dead again... If you're going to do this... don't use a noco "smart" charger. Maybe it's just my luck. I don't know. Hopefully the victron chargers won't be like that. The victron dc-dc converter doesn't try and outsmart me and it just supplies the voltage that I tell it to and that's all it needs to do. One problem with this setup is what happens if the chassis battery goes dead. That block heater outlet is controlled by a relay, that is powered by the chassis battery. So if your chassis battery is dead you can't use the charger to charge it...
  15. Sure. You could use two dc-dc converters. That’s not much different from the two battery isolators originally on my dynasty. Might need to have a switch on them so only the one that you need is active
  16. I'm registered, thanks! If I ever need to drain my cooling system again, I might do that also. It bothers me to have coolant that can't be obtained at walmart or auto parts stores.
  17. Yes. The coils in those continuous solenoids consume about 750ma each. They will be warm/hot. If you bypass the salesman switch you’ll want to disconnect the coils so they’re not continuously wasting battery power.
  18. Mine had two salesman solenoids. One latching solenoid that fed one branch of the loads, and also triggered an automotive solenoid for the other load branch. Maybe the regular solenoid failed? If you replace(d) the halogen lights with LED, the remaining loads can be combined on the latching solenoid and just remove the normal solenoid. Cheers Walter
  19. If I were doing it again, I would go 24v. I think it’s just silly to have gigantic battery cables to deal with 3kw@12v amperage.
  20. That's the one in our Monaco parts list: Advanced Auto Parts 5970857 for 1973 Chevy C10 truck AC Delco D1588 That's what I used for 2003 dynasty
  21. Wow. I would think that aftermarket lifters might have long-term durability problems, but not immediately defective, engine-not-running issues! What an ordeal. I'm glad you've got it running right now!
  22. Oh, I finally clued-in on the term “register” in the original post. So we’re talking about a coolant line from the aqua hot. Sorry, I thought OP was talking about a WATER line.
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